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Changing Oil While on Ramps?

11K views 39 replies 23 participants last post by  Plateado 
#1 ·
Due to a combination of my step bars and my big belly I can't quite squeeze myself under my truck to change the oil. I bought a pair of Gorilla Ramps which leads me to this question.

Will the truck with it's front end raised on the ramps still drain all the oil out sufficiently?

(I did do a search on "ramps" and found lots of other info but not to this specific question)

Thank you,
Dan
 
#3 ·
I've not crawled under mine, and don't know if you have the 4 cyl, 6 cyl, or diesel, but if the drain plug is on the back side of the oil pan, I would suspect you'd be fine.
 
#4 ·
The concern would be - making sure you got most of the oil out and you don't overfill it.

If you already know that X quarts fills it.....and you put exactly X quarts in - but you check the dipstick and it shows OVER FILL - then you'll know you didn't get all the oil out.

So....as a precaution - put 1 less quart in than the manual recommends - and check the dipstick. You'll know soon enough by the dipstick whether you can throw in that last quart (and you got 95% of the old oil out)
 
#8 ·
I use two sets of ramps for oil changes.

A set of the large rhino ramps for the front wheels and a set of smaller race ramps for the back.

It achieves a better level.
 
#9 ·
I have a set of four Trak-Jak ramps by Race Ramps. The vehicle can be driven up on all four simultaneously. The result is an additional 3" of clearance under the truck and it remains level to insure all oil is drained completely from the drain plug located on the side of the pan.

A lot of dirty oil will remain inside the pan with conventional ramps lifting the front only.
 
#10 ·
I used ramps for many cars over the years and never had a problem with overfilling my oil pan.
I don't know where the drain plug is, however if it shoots out to the side (when the truck is level side to side) there should be some type of valley in the pan to help direct oil to the side, or basically to the drain hole. Otherwise, how does a level (side to side) and low front end guarantee full drainage?
Also, what about the ones who level the truck, are they in jeopardy of not draining the oil pan fully?

With that said, if the oil pan drain plug is as far forward in the pan as possible, then of course lifting the front end probably will leave a lot of oil pooled in the rear of the pan.


If OP has concerns over inadequate drainage, a second option is to slightly jack up one side of the vehicle, support it with a jack stand and perform the oil change.
 
#12 ·
If OP has concerns over inadequate drainage, a second option is to slightly jack up one side of the vehicle, support it with a jack stand and perform the oil change.
Problem with jacking one side is you need to jack the side opposite of the drain plug location on the pan which makes it even more difficult to get under to reach the drain plug.
 
#15 ·
Kind of funny a portion of this topic came up.......


Back a number of years the topic of, "How much oil remains in the pan after a complete drain" at the GM proving ground. A lot of discussion prevailed and a little unauthorized non scientific test was performed......


Two identical test cars, with the same drive train and near same mileage, was used with one front end slightly elevated and the other near level (the drain was to the rear of the pan). After performing the drain procedure (yes, an exact procedure, with the exception of the level of the car, is mandatory on test vehicles), the used oil was measured and they discovered the slightly elevated vehicle drained a 1/2 pint (exact measurement was performed, but alas, the old guys memory is a little short) more oil in the prescribed 30 minute drain time. This was about 16-20 years ago and technology has changed considerably. But I think the results are valid and use the elevated approach on my lift during oil and transmission fluid changes, where applicable, when performing this maintenance.


The several technicians that were involved, did not originally disagree on oil left in the pan, it was just the quantity in contest and if that quantity could/would alter the oil analysis tests.


They also wrote a Procedure to the GM Employee Suggestion Plan for an monetary award. I do not know the result. So I cannot say if the test vehicle oil drain procedure was changed to include the incline. But several mentioned they would do it on their own vehicle maintenance.


Just "food" for thought. Do what you wish to your own vehicle.
 
#16 ·
I actually think the speed at which they do oil changes at any shop, dealer or otherwise, is so short, that an engine that was just running does not have time to properly drain.

When I did my on oil changes, back before half of you were born, I would position the drain pan, pull the plug, then crawl out from underneath and ccheck on all of the other fluids, air filter, etc. Would find a way to take at least 20-30 minutes before I went to replace the plug. Even then, typically was a small drip of oil from the drain hole drop by drop. I see these guys do a complete oil change and inspection in 15 minutes, they probably leave a cup of oil in the engine.
 
#17 ·
I went from jackstands, to ramps - removing the plug to putting in 1/4 turn drain valves- to now using a mityvac oil evacuator down the dipstick tube so don't even have to go under the vehicle (or touch the drain plug) unless it has an oil filter on the bottom not a cartridge on top. Manual pump version for now and hope to convert to compressor based soon that will really cut down the time. Main thing is to change the oil & filter!

Some houses used to have a pit dug out in the garage to work on cars! Those always kinda' scared me (lived in earthquake prone area).
 
#19 ·
Well, at least there's one thing everyone agrees on......we want to evacuate as much oil as possible, regardless of the method, before refilling with fresh oil.
:grin2:
Surprised we haven't heard from the "change your filter every other oil change" lobby.
>:)
 
#22 ·
You got that right......it's even worse!
 
#21 ·
Or you could buy some 2X8's, cut them into 2 foot pieces , nail 2 together and get approx 3 inches of lift if you don't need to go to high to get under it.
That said I bought some ramps at Walmart for around $50 to change the oil in WRX.
Dealer is a 35 minute drive and I didn't feel like driving there for an oil change.
 
#39 ·
2X8 ramps

Or you could buy some 2X8's, cut them into 2 foot pieces , nail 2 together and get approx 3 inches of lift if you don't need to go to high to get under it.
Yup, I've done that - cut at 45 degree angle to climb on easier, sorta like:
________
|________\
|_________\
 
#27 ·
I'll bite......I'm using Mobil 1 full synthetic 5w-30. Also doing my first change this weekend (now that I got my ramps) at about 700miles. Then will change at every 5,000 miles thereafter or yearly which ever comes first (I have a company provided vehicle that is my daily driver so my truck will sit alot).

I know I get two free ones at the dealer but it makes me feel good to do it myself for reasons mentioned elsewhere in this thread.

Thanks to all for your replies,
Dan
 
#29 ·
Old school. :grin2:

I always used a lot of newspaper under the oil collection pan when I did oil changes, I think environmentally, doing an oil change over a ditch has too many dangers. Besides, I can see the critters crawling on the concrete of my garage and stomp on them, in the ditch they can do a sneak attack.

I quit doing oil changes when wife had the Honda Accord and I couldn't slide underneath it. Honda dealership offered $9 oil changes if you left their license plate advertisement on the front of the car, it was just easier. Since then, oil disposal requirements and dealers/service shops offering $20 oil changes, tossing my oil collection pan in a move, I can't justify crawling underneath to do an oil change anymore.
 
#36 ·
Just wanted to UPDATE. Changed oil yesterday while my truck was up on ramps and it worked well. Did as suggested and put in 5qts (5qt jug was handy) then checked. Oil just touched the very bottom of dipstick. Put in last quart and was at full mark. I saw no ill effects from changing the oil on the ramps although I did have to use a step ladder to change the filter.

Dan
 
#38 ·
I know two people with pits. I'll use them as they are better than working on jack stands, but I prefer hoists over pits. In most areas they are now illegal due to the possibility of heavier than air explosive gas accumulation and the associated explosion hazard. I personally have never heard of one exploding. I have one person that built a semi-pit into the side of a hill. The entrance end is at ground level from there he used 2 steel beams for the actual drive on tracks. He only made it 3.5 or 4 feet tall with a concrete floor. So you can sit on a stool on wheels and move around to work. Where else can you sit down and work underneath your vehicle? I used it once to weld on the rear of my motorhome. It was really handy.
 
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