2016 Canyon SLT LWN Duramax Icon & 35"s - Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon
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post #1 of 52 (permalink) Old 03-14-2016, 03:28 PM Thread Starter
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2016 Canyon SLT LWN Duramax Icon & 35"s

So I just picked up my 1st ever GM product brand new. Been a life long Ford guy, but Ford doesn't believe in building what the customers want anymore. This will be my daughter's 1st truck. We are an all diesel household so it was either this or the Eco-diesel and she doesn't need to be driving around a full size at 5'2". lol

So just picked up the rig from Dave Smith over the weekend. It was nice to get a good long drive to get a feel for what to expect and the capabilities and the limits of the vehicle are before tinkering with it.

Planned Mods:
Icon Vehicle Dynamics Stage 3
35" Trail Grabbers (I'm going to make them fit)
Fuel Vapor Wheels
Custom front tube bumper for a Warn Winch
Rock Slider Steps

Engine Mods:
Tuner
Air Intake
Possibly more...

My opinion so far on the baby Canyon Duramax. So I was only able to see returns of 24 Mpg freeway but that was driving like a retard. I'll see what it gets this week to and from work, but if this is the economy of this thing I don't blame GM i blame the anti-science anit-engineers at CARB and the EPA, because scientifically speaking the economy of a vehicle this weight by a diesel motor this small making this kind of power with this smooth of a transmission shouldn't be any less than 35 mpg. I have a 8k pound MegaCab that I get 22-26 mpg in on that same drive doing 85 mph on 37" General Off Road tires. My 1984-87 Ford Ranger diesels got 39 mpg freeway all day long. I can see a 10% loss with the added emissions and weight, but if it's more it is the doing of the EPA strong arming GM into pissing away resources. Okay other than that the truck handles and rides great. It feels a little more unstable than my full size rigs but with the narrower track that is expected. With the slight lift and wider stance it will stabilize a lot. Other than that my only 2 gripes are what the heck is up with a $40k vehicle not having Universal Home Remotes? I get home and go to set the Remotes up for my daughter and I'm like you've go to be kidding me? Called the dealer today and he confirms that GM is starting to pull a $5 product from their line, and I'm not the only one that is pissed off. If they start only carrying/offering them in the Denali I'm going to be double pissed about that one. And last I read that Four Wheeler Magazine's had the same complaint about the 4 wheel drive shift knob being located behind the steering wheel. Pretty unnerving when you are trying to bend around the steering wheel to find the dang thing at 10:00 PM in blizzard conditions in the middle of nowhere! Wouldn't be as bad if they also didn't do away with a confirmation light on the cluster. So not only do you have to bend your head around the steering wheel to locate it, you have to really bend around to confirm the engagement light is on. If your going to do away with manual shifters then at least leave the stupid confirmation light in the heads up display cluster! Those are just little gripes since I'll be modifying the motor and suspension anyways. All of the Tech stuff is really cool, but Ram is offering the same bells and whistles now in the 1500's so they are becoming industry standards. Minus universal garage remotes. lol

So we are also a big off roading family and own a Ranch in Nor Cal with some pretty rough terrain. We will be throwing on an Icon Vehicle Dynamics Stage 3 Lift. I'm big on keeping the center of gravity down as low as possible so we are going to see just how big of tires we can stuff under these babies without having to go crazy with a SAS. That'd be too tall for her anyways. I know fitting 33"s is no problem but hopefully there is enough room to run 35"s without running into the firewall. I've got great body guys that are pros at rolling fenders so the sheet metal limitations are not a worry. And there is no way I'm doing fiberglass panels. They are ugly as heck and useless anywhere but the beach. lol I'll be posting up the full build here as we go, the lift will be ordered this week.







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post #2 of 52 (permalink) Old 03-14-2016, 04:37 PM
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I don't understand why you want to put a ginormous lift on the truck for a driver that stands only 5'2" tall.
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post #3 of 52 (permalink) Old 03-14-2016, 04:38 PM
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Can't wait...subbed!
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post #4 of 52 (permalink) Old 03-14-2016, 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by houseofdiesel View Post
And last I read that Four Wheeler Magazine's had the same complaint about the 4 wheel drive shift knob being located behind the steering wheel. Pretty unnerving when you are trying to bend around the steering wheel to find the dang thing at 10:00 PM in blizzard conditions in the middle of nowhere! Wouldn't be as bad if they also didn't do away with a confirmation light on the cluster. So not only do you have to bend your head around the steering wheel to locate it, you have to really bend around to confirm the engagement light is on. If your going to do away with manual shifters then at least leave the stupid confirmation light in the heads up display cluster!
I agree 100%. It is REALLY awkward for me to try and see if 4H is engaged or not. There is a giant computer screen thingy in the middle of the dash, and another computer screen thingy in the centre of the gauge cluster, but neither are able to give me the simple information that I can't see because of a poorly placed knob. Come on GM!

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Originally Posted by houseofdiesel View Post
I've got great body guys that are pros at rolling fenders so the sheet metal limitations are not a worry. And there is no way I'm doing fiberglass panels. They are ugly as heck and useless anywhere but the beach. lol I'll be posting up the full build here as we go, the lift will be ordered this week.
I'm skeptical that you will have much success with 35s, but I'm very curious to see what you might be able to achieve. Keep us posted!

2008 GMC Canyon, 3.7 I5, Off Road 4x4, Inferno Orange.
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post #5 of 52 (permalink) Old 03-14-2016, 04:47 PM
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Please ask the guys cutting the fenders to take a bunch of photos. I'm keen to do this to mine...but would like to see how someone with experience does it. Thanks
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post #6 of 52 (permalink) Old 03-14-2016, 05:14 PM Thread Starter
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I don't understand why you want to put a ginormous lift on the truck for a driver that stands only 5'2" tall.
1.75-3" lift ginormous? We need the ground clearance on our vehicles for our ranches. The front bumper alone wouldn't make it through the first washout coming off the freeway at our lower entrance.

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I'm skeptical that you will have much success with 35s, but I'm very curious to see what you might be able to achieve. Keep us posted!
I am too. No guarantees, but whatever the max is I'll find out. I know it'll take some body work, but it will look factory when it's done. No sawzalls. lol

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Please ask the guys cutting the fenders to take a bunch of photos. I'm keen to do this to mine...but would like to see how someone with experience does it. Thanks
Oh I will and do. I don't keep any secrets. I try to keep my builds as detailed as possible to help others not have to have the headaches of reinventing the wheel. That's just something I enjoy. I've been stuffing rubber in tight spaces since I ran 42"s on my '96 F-350 back in '99 with just a leveling kit and no rubbing. Now I keep it to 37"s and 40"s on full size rigs, but this will be my first GM without going to a SAS. As long as I don't have to go with too shallow of a backspacing and keep the rim and tire as narrow as possible I won't be adding to much stress to the ball joints. Tires will be a max of 12.5-13".

My last project! I do all of the tube work myself.

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post #7 of 52 (permalink) Old 03-14-2016, 07:43 PM
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35's on a 3 inch lift for these trucks? You're a funny guy.......... A lot of members here are having difficulty squeezing them under a 6 inch lift.... Not saying I wouldn't like to see it, I just think it's gonna be a rodeo.
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post #8 of 52 (permalink) Old 03-24-2016, 12:06 AM Thread Starter
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35's on a 3 inch lift for these trucks? You're a funny guy.......... A lot of members here are having difficulty squeezing them under a 6 inch lift.... Not saying I wouldn't like to see it, I just think it's gonna be a rodeo.
We shall see. If it wasn't it wouldn't be worth trying.

So I really want the Fuel Vapor wheels but they have no blanks and they say that even if they did the machines can't hold or spin without catching the lug notches on the rings. I'm not about to run spacers or even a +offset. I don't want them to stick way the heck out skate board SoCal style either. So I settled on ordering Rock Star II's. I hate them but it's the right offset and backspacing so it's what will have to work for now.
17x9 -12 Offset 4.5" Backspacing Custom Drilled to 6x120 mm

Icon lift is ordered and being put together for shipping so it should be here next week. It'll be awhile until I put it on anyways since I always have them do the body work without the lift to make sure I have clearance at full stuff without having to flex the rig out. This will probably be extensive body work compared to a Ram or Super Duty so I'm going to be taking it to my guy in Redding California that did my body work for me on my Super Crawler Truck. He's a motorcycle guy so he is a Guru when it comes to metal work manipulation and body lines. He hand pounded all the stock wheel arch lines in a rear quarter panel cut to clear 46" tires within 4 hours of me drawing it up and leaving Shasta. lol

I picked up 2 Hercules 35" x 12.5" R17 on Craigslist for $200 to throw on the wheels when they get here and take the rig up to him. I haven't gone behind the inner fenders yet, but if it is clear in there this is going to work. The rear is going to need very little trim work to clear, which is cool because these wheel well lines are a pain to mess with.

I'll probably be removing the front bumper next week and getting into if anything has to be relocated or removed and clearances behind the inner fender plastics.




Last edited by houseofdiesel; 03-24-2016 at 12:08 AM.
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post #9 of 52 (permalink) Old 03-24-2016, 01:47 AM
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I'd love to see this work. Way better then the on stilts look
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post #10 of 52 (permalink) Old 03-31-2016, 01:44 PM Thread Starter
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Wheels in and mounted up! Pretty happy with most of GM's layout. The only restriction is going to be the body mounts. They are gigantic! Can't believe they mounted up without having to cut anything. lol

So the package is:
RockStar II 17x9 with 4.5" Backspacing / -12 Offset
Hercules 35x12.5R17 They measure a true 34"

This looks like it will be the max. Truck goes to body shop next weekend for body works for clearance.

Rear: Looks like back edge might kiss with a load so I will have them roll them 3-4" up just to make sure or in case I ever do a solid axle swap down the line 37"s will clear.

Fronts: The bumpers are completely hollow, and I'll be removing mine anyways in favor of a Tube Winch Bumper like the one I built for the Yukon above. I'll have to have someone build me some moldings for the sections under the head lights to retain a straight line so there will be no gaps between the bumper and headlights.

The major work is going to be to the kick panel quarters. The only restriction is going to be the body mounts which are so large they almost come out past the start of the kick panel firewall. I'm pretty confident that my body guy will be able to get everything all the way back to that leading edge without an issue and have plenty of clearance for this size tire.

On the inside, the tire and wheel clears the knuckle easily. Tightest point at the top is 1.75". So people can run 13.5"s with this offset or run a 5" backspacing with a 12.5" tire, if they like the tires all the way inside the fenders. The every other recessed tread lug is within the outer most point of the fender which is the max I am comfortable with exposed to keep the police from hassling me.

I'm sure some might have questions but here are some pictures.












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post #11 of 52 (permalink) Old 03-31-2016, 01:47 PM Thread Starter
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REAR:









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post #12 of 52 (permalink) Old 03-31-2016, 02:08 PM
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Man, can't wait to see how your body guy pulls that front off! Going to look mean. Going to need some extra go juice on with that 2.8 to turn those meats.

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265/70r17 KO2s
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post #13 of 52 (permalink) Old 04-07-2016, 01:18 PM
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Here's some trimming inspiration for you:

Trimming fenders
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post #14 of 52 (permalink) Old 04-18-2016, 12:36 AM
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Awesome :D Had to delurk to comment!

I'm trippin' out how difficult it is to run 35s w/o a lot of massaging. C'mon GM you had to know that's like a basic upgrade for offroaders! And the dang knob? All we need is a knob relocation kit! Like to the center console! I say we but I'm not back in a Colorado just yet but soon... real soon I hope.

Anyways totally digging all the mods and pics and all the new trucks here!!! I've missed my old truck and even more 4 wheeling (just sold my Jeep) so now that the Colorado/Canyon is out I'm chomping at the bit to get back in the fold. Have cut off tool and BFH ready LOL

Carry on!

update: BOUGHT A 2016~! score :D
and yes, read the thread about how relocating the shift knob selector is a no go. dangit. It really should've gone on the center stack. At least 4L needs a lockout to discourage unintended selection.

Last edited by HICO808; 04-29-2016 at 08:08 AM.
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post #15 of 52 (permalink) Old 08-27-2016, 03:50 PM Thread Starter
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Update 8/27/16

Well the body shop in NorCal didn't work out due to his office rat. Now I have a local shop set up to clearance the tires in about a week. Couple diesel events coming up that I really wanted to take it to and the compound setup is about to ship so we threw the Icon Stage 3 system on and got some Falken MT 295/70R17's to throw on it. I have a cheep Craigslist 35" as a spare to have them clearance the front fenders. The 295's barely clip the front bumper and grab the plastic with the lower valance removed. Trimming the bumper about 1" and speed clipping the inner fender and they would clear in the front. At the rear edge of the front fender removing the mud guard and trimming back the sheet metal about 1/2" would clear there. Well here are some pics. As for the Icon lift this is 1.25" up on the coilovers. There is another 2" it can go up, but the CV's are already starting to bind up here on droop. Maxing out the Coilover's I'd recommend custom CV's.





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post #16 of 52 (permalink) Old 09-04-2016, 02:36 AM Thread Starter
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Update 9/3/16

So Tuesday she goes under the knife. I went and picked a set of used 37x12.5R17 Nitto Trail Grabbers today. If I'm going to be paying a pretty penny for body work, I'm going all out. I've got tons of pics and info. Guys are going to love SAS (Solid Axle Swap) on these things. There is tons of room behind the inner fenders. Running 40"s or maybe even 42"s with a SAS. The cab side not so much. My helper for the day was my 11 year old and he cranked the wheel when we first went to start figuring out cut lines and wrinkled the driver side lower fender edge at the cab side. I was able to unwrinkle later so not the end of the world. For those looking to keep their front bumper I trimmed the bumper 2.5" forward by 11.5" up to clear the 37"s with the -12 offset wheels. Someone else had mentioned and I will confirm, the sway bar must be removed or modified at the height and these size tires. E-brake cable is the only functional thing that might have to be dealt with other than the body mounts. From the bumper I will only be keeping the brows much like the tube bumpers do being made by ADD (Advanced Desert Design).

In the rear the 37"s clear the front but not the back. They don't contact at ride height with the 1" block but under articulation or with a load they will contact the back as the shackles swing back under the loads. 1"-1.5" will have to be rolled.

I'm sure there is more that I'm forgetting. If anyone has any questions feel free to ask.

Sway Bar contact at full crank.














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post #17 of 52 (permalink) Old 09-04-2016, 02:45 AM Thread Starter
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STUFFED! The 37x12.5R17 Nittos





Someone asked about how low it was stock, the top one is the only pic I have close to a profile.


The stance is INSANE!


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post #18 of 52 (permalink) Old 09-04-2016, 09:50 AM
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God this is awesome! I wish I had the resources to experiment like this! That truck is quickly becoming a beast. I will be following this closely ! Great work so far and thanks for sharing it

2016 Canyon All Terrain V6
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post #19 of 52 (permalink) Old 09-05-2016, 11:34 AM
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Basically we have to run without wheel well liners? I have falken 285/70/17 and my liners are getting pretty beat up from the rubbing.

NEW TRUCK
2015 Colorado Crew Cab Z71 4X4 - Summit White
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post #20 of 52 (permalink) Old 09-05-2016, 12:03 PM Thread Starter
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God this is awesome! I wish I had the resources to experiment like this! That truck is quickly becoming a beast. I will be following this closely ! Great work so far and thanks for sharing it
Thx!

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Basically we have to run without wheel well liners? I have falken 285/70/17 and my liners are getting pretty beat up from the rubbing.
Well in the front I already have trimmed the inner liner up deleting one screw hole. On the cab side you would only need to trim the inside half of the mud guard off and some of the pinch weld. Then you can use a self tap or speed clip to pull or pin the liner back to the fire wall.
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