2016 vs. 2017 - Page 2 - Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon
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post #21 of 83 (permalink) Old 10-07-2016, 10:03 AM
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I definitely agree but I am waiting on the tune until my warranty is up. My truck has under 10k miles and just had to have "entire egr system replaced" after a p0341 code popped and my egr valve was the diagnosis.....I tried so hard to get specific details about what exactly was replaces and why?? Was the valve broken? Burnt up? Why then was the whole system changed after a day of working on just the valve...? Either way I love my truck but don't trust it enough to void my warranty unfortunately....
Most of the tunes won't void the warranty and most can be easily removed and returned to stock without any indication of a change.

At 13k with the tune since ~5k and no problems. Multiple times into dealer and haven't noticed.

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post #22 of 83 (permalink) Old 10-07-2016, 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Swank171 View Post
I definitely agree but I am waiting on the tune until my warranty is up. My truck has under 10k miles and just had to have "entire egr system replaced" after a p0341 code popped and my egr valve was the diagnosis.....I tried so hard to get specific details about what exactly was replaces and why?? Was the valve broken? Burnt up? Why then was the whole system changed after a day of working on just the valve...? Either way I love my truck but don't trust it enough to void my warranty unfortunately....
Most of the tunes won't void the warranty and most can be easily removed and returned to stock without any indication of a change.

At 13k with the tune since ~5k and no problems. Multiple times into dealer and haven't noticed.

I'm pretty sure there are ways for them to look and see. I doubt they look for it on a service visit but I'm also sure a catastrophic failure of some sort would provoke an investigation to avoid the dealer coming out of pocket. Just guess I'm not willing to risk it. I was already asked after the EGR failure if I had a tune on it. I'm positive warranty is voided if an aftermarket tune to ecm is evedent or ecm has been tampered with.
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post #23 of 83 (permalink) Old 10-07-2016, 11:18 AM
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I'm pretty sure there are ways for them to look and see. I doubt they look for it on a service visit but I'm also sure a catastrophic failure of some sort would provoke an investigation to avoid the dealer coming out of pocket. Just guess I'm not willing to risk it. I was already asked after the EGR failure if I had a tune on it. I'm positive warranty is voided if an aftermarket tune to ecm is evedent or ecm has been tampered with.
They don't necessarily straight void it or prevent it from being void. It would depend on the tune, the situation, dealer and other variables but the thing is that they also have to prove that the tune caused the problem. However, it would be up to the dealer to accept that or not, most would probably assume void and not prove it and would have to be fought in court.

But, as Trifecta puts it:

Yes, the TRIFECTA Chevrolet Colorado / GMC Canyon MY2015+ Powertrain Calibration Reprogramming will match all CVNs, hash IDs, checksums, and signatures of the OE GM Powertrain Calibration. We provide this functionality as so that our customers will not be wronged by an aggressive dealership. With this being said, this is a choice that in our opinion belongs solely to our customers.

We standardize on a policy of not incrementing the write counter or increment entries in the flash history because in our opinion the flash history and ECM accumulated service history per controller module should be a reflection of (match exactly) the GM SPS/GDS programming history as per actual GM diagnostic service tool usage (server side) (timestamped).

The TRIFECTA flash loader and Transparency featureset does not increment the ECM write counter or increment entries in the flash history. However with that being said, with the TRIFECTA MY2015+ Chevrolet Colorado / GMC Canyon powertrain recalibration, even if your dealership could not physically find evidence of a reflash, just driving your car will give away the fact that it is making far more power than stock.

To clarify, we do not advertize the calibration as: "will not void your warranty", however we can say that we can "return the vehicle to stock without detection by any current means of GM diagnostic tool". (As of December 2014)


With every TRIFECTA flash loader mechanism, a comprehensive flash recovery function featureset is included to recover the vehicle in case of a truncated or interrupted flash install. Our recovery feature will recover from any ECM state.


It is hard to detect on the vehicle and virtually impossible if returned to stock. So the dealer would have a lot of work to prove whatever the problem is wouldn't be under warranty.

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post #24 of 83 (permalink) Old 10-07-2016, 11:18 AM
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AN IMPORTANT NOTE ABOUT ALTERATIONS AND WARRANTIES Installations or alterations to the original equipment vehicle
(or chassis) as distributed by General Motors are not covered by the General Motors New-Vehicle Limited Warranty. The special body
company, assembler, equipment installer or upfitter is solely responsible for warranties on the body or equipment and any alterations
(or any effect of the alterations) to any of the parts, components, systems or assemblies installed by GM. General Motors is not
responsible for the safety or quality of design features, materials or workmanship of any alterations by such suppliers.


This is in their brochure

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post #25 of 83 (permalink) Old 10-07-2016, 12:35 PM
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We take this view. Honesty is the best policy. Be honest with your dealership, tell them what you plan on doing, ask them for their input. We have had people with our tunes (on other platforms) need warranty work and get the green light even though we had tuned it. Now, that's not saying that will always be the case, but hiding it doesn't jive with us too well. We wouldn't want a customer to be dishonest to us, and we would hope they weren't dishonest with others as well.
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post #26 of 83 (permalink) Old 10-07-2016, 02:00 PM
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So there is a way to totally wipe any history of any tune if your willing and that worried about it. Uninstall the tune, disconnect the battery for 15 minutes, then reconnect and leave the battery on all night. Not sure how well this works with the low voltage protection on these trucks may have to turn lights back on in the middle of the night to kill it, but if you fully kill that battery over night, if it will erase all traces. I used this method on a ford before, told them I left overnight and forgot flashers were on. No trace of a tune. This came from a Ford tech on the forums and it worked, so I would assume same results with these tricks. Either way I think it's being a bit paranoid. Just Uninstall before service and no issues
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post #27 of 83 (permalink) Old 10-07-2016, 05:50 PM
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Paranoid, maybe.....I'd call it responsible. With 2 kids a mortgage and a 60 mile commute footing the bill on any repairs for a voided warranty would not work. No matter how small the chance of voiding the warranty there is a chance.....you never know when the tune will put your truck in limp mode and then when it's towed to the dealer you are screwed. All trucks react to these tuners different. You may not always have the opportunity to reflash for a service....any situation where something does go wrong in your truck breaks down you could get a bad spot. I've been down that road, I was young and in a position to be able to do it. Now I have responsibilities.....not paranoia.
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post #28 of 83 (permalink) Old 10-08-2016, 03:00 PM
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So there is a way to totally wipe any history of any tune if your willing and that worried about it. Uninstall the tune, disconnect the battery for 15 minutes, then reconnect and leave the battery on all night. Not sure how well this works with the low voltage protection on these trucks may have to turn lights back on in the middle of the night to kill it, but if you fully kill that battery over night, if it will erase all traces. I used this method on a ford before, told them I left overnight and forgot flashers were on. No trace of a tune. This came from a Ford tech on the forums and it worked, so I would assume same results with these tricks. Either way I think it's being a bit paranoid. Just Uninstall before service and no issues
this does NOT work on a GM. GM uses a flash counter that increments every time the truck is programmed, even when a dealer does it. the issue with people hiding it and companies finding ways around it is that it just gives cause for making things more traceable. GM isn't going to keep making it so that they can detect it better, they are going to make it so you're locked out of it. That's what we are already seeing on some 2017 vehicles, GM has switched their seed/key protocol to keep the aftermarket out of it. Now, are there ways to get around this? Sure, but by people committing warranty fraud rather than being open and honest it will eventually greatly inhibit the aftermarket as a whole.
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post #29 of 83 (permalink) Old 10-12-2016, 11:13 PM
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Buy or Wait? I've been in the market for about 5 wks and was rolling the dice on end of month incentives, I'm really considering waiting on 2017s at this point. While I'd love to get one soon, I think the new powertrain combo of a V6 and eight-speed transmission might be worth the wait.
Does anyone have any info on the pricing on the 2017s? Any estimated major price changes?

Once I heard that they were adding AFM (cylinder deactivation) I jumped on the 2016 wagon. I plan on keeping my truck for 10+ years and once my warranty is up I do my own repairs. So I was thinking long term. Back in the late 2000s when Chevy engines were having problems with the AFM, you had to rip the top half of the engine off to get at the lifters which was usually the problem. Alls I know is that I'm a little bit old school when it comes to engine work and my 2000 S10 ran great for 16 years with no fancy fuel saving options.
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post #30 of 83 (permalink) Old 10-13-2016, 12:13 AM
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I have a 2016 and no complaints about the transmission. Not sure what it is that other owners are experiencing but mine shifts fine. My only complaint is the seat is uncomfortable but seems to be getting better as it breaks in.
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post #31 of 83 (permalink) Old 10-13-2016, 05:17 AM
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I feel sorry for you fellas that are having transmission shifting issues. I have a 2.5 powered truck and I have to say that the transmission has been perfect after the first 1000 miles on the odometer. No stuttering and it shifts right when you expect it to. It downshifts on steep downhill descents to use the engine as a speed brake. The 2.5 is by no means a quick off the line truck but I find that if I just accelerate at a rather normal pace, the motor runs up to about 3500 to 4000 rpm, shifts out smoothly and before you know it you're cruising at highway speed, turning about 1800 to 2000 rpm and getting 20 to 24 mpg. Using this method of acceleration form a stop I find that my 0 to 60 time is probably around 12 to 14 seconds. If I push it hard I can get it down in the 9 second range and for me that is all I would want in a truck. I have not heard if they are going to put the new 8 speed tranny behind the 2.5 motor but I imagine they will simply because it will save on production costs to have one type of transmission instead of two. It will be interesting to see how that affects the performance. One thing seems certain and that is I can't imagine GM putting cylinder deactivation on a 4 banger. I know that the OP is probably looking to get the V6 but I encourage you to at least test drive a 2.5 model and see what you think. You might be surprised. I have no complaints about mine.
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post #32 of 83 (permalink) Old 10-13-2016, 10:32 AM
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I feel sorry for you fellas that are having transmission shifting issues. I have a 2.5 powered truck and I have to say that the transmission has been perfect after the first 1000 miles on the odometer. No stuttering and it shifts right when you expect it to. It downshifts on steep downhill descents to use the engine as a speed brake. The 2.5 is by no means a quick off the line truck but I find that if I just accelerate at a rather normal pace, the motor runs up to about 3500 to 4000 rpm, shifts out smoothly and before you know it you're cruising at highway speed, turning about 1800 to 2000 rpm and getting 20 to 24 mpg. Using this method of acceleration form a stop I find that my 0 to 60 time is probably around 12 to 14 seconds. If I push it hard I can get it down in the 9 second range and for me that is all I would want in a truck. I have not heard if they are going to put the new 8 speed tranny behind the 2.5 motor but I imagine they will simply because it will save on production costs to have one type of transmission instead of two. It will be interesting to see how that affects the performance. One thing seems certain and that is I can't imagine GM putting cylinder deactivation on a 4 banger. I know that the OP is probably looking to get the V6 but I encourage you to at least test drive a 2.5 model and see what you think. You might be surprised. I have no complaints about mine.
Most have found that the 6speed is much better suited for the 4gas or diesel and don't have any of the problems really the v6 has mated with the 6speed. It seems the gearing and logic is better suited to the different curves of the 4 cylinders.

I doubt that they would ever do cylinder deactivation on a 4cyl, doesn't make much sense and wouldn't be enough power to maintain for long on the highway when it would be used. They may eventually go for the 8speed to conform builds across the platform but since you guys aren't having as many problems and still get decent mpg being a 4cyl it will probably last for a while with the 6speed.

Not bashing the 4 gas at all but for a lot the reduced capabilities will put it out of their equation.

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Last edited by kaiser67; 10-13-2016 at 10:34 AM.
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post #33 of 83 (permalink) Old 10-13-2016, 05:02 PM
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16 to 17 is going to be a toss up.
16 you get crappy shifting that you either have to run a tune or run in tow/haul to make better.
17 may have better shifting (don't know yet) but you'll have AFM so either have to run a tune or run in M5 to turn it off.
Pick your poison...😋😁

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post #34 of 83 (permalink) Old 10-13-2016, 05:39 PM
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After reading all the posts, owning a 2016 that is worthless on shifting, I am having a hard time getting my hands around adding 2 more gears, when GM can't figure out the 6 speed, then throwing an AFM engine in the mix. Until I see reports on the 2017, I am not willing to gamble again. Just my experience.

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post #35 of 83 (permalink) Old 10-13-2016, 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Swank171 View Post
I definitely agree but I am waiting on the tune until my warranty is up. My truck has under 10k miles and just had to have "entire egr system replaced" after a p0341 code popped and my egr valve was the diagnosis.....I tried so hard to get specific details about what exactly was replaces and why?? Was the valve broken? Burnt up? Why then was the whole system changed after a day of working on just the valve...? Either way I love my truck but don't trust it enough to void my warranty unfortunately....




I'm sitting here with my 2015 collie in the shop. 10,013 miles on it and they are going to replace the entire engine. I started th proceeding on a buy back. today. Let you know as I find out things. Might be a taco in the future.

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post #36 of 83 (permalink) Old 10-13-2016, 06:51 PM
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I'm sitting here with my 2015 collie in the shop. 10,013 miles on it and they are going to replace the entire engine. I started th proceeding on a buy back. today. Let you know as I find out things. Might be a taco in the future.
I am still researching mid size pick ups. If you haven't I would suggest you read some Tacoma forums. There seems to be more complaints on the Taco forums than their are here. The 16/17 Tacoma's have transmission shifting issues similar to the Colorado. Some have reported crankshaft position sensor issues, driveline vibration, etc.

If I had to choose between the Tacoma and the Colorado, I would most likely choose the Chevy. For the same money, you get a better ride, imo.

That said, I am even looking into a Nissan pro 4x. (Yes, I know it has not really been updated in 10+years).
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post #37 of 83 (permalink) Old 10-13-2016, 08:41 PM
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I am still researching mid size pick ups. If you haven't I would suggest you read some Tacoma forums. There seems to be more complaints on the Taco forums than their are here. The 16/17 Tacoma's have transmission shifting issues similar to the Colorado. Some have reported crankshaft position sensor issues, driveline vibration, etc.

If I had to choose between the Tacoma and the Colorado, I would most likely choose the Chevy. For the same money, you get a better ride, imo.

That said, I am even looking into a Nissan pro 4x. (Yes, I know it has not really been updated in 10+years).
This

I was seriously considering a Tacoma until I spent some time on the Tacoma forums. That truck is having a lot of issues. I wouldn't risk it. The Tacoma forums are a list of one owner after another with a problem.
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post #38 of 83 (permalink) Old 10-13-2016, 09:41 PM
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I am kind of in the same situation. Thinking about waiting for a 2017 Canyon Denali diesel, but if the incentives get really good, I may pull the trigger on a 2016. I will definitely wait to see what the October incentives are.
A Canyon Denali Diesel, bestow my heart. It just sounds good rolling off the tongue. No, really, probably the coolest darn truck EVER.
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post #39 of 83 (permalink) Old 10-13-2016, 10:22 PM
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I'm sitting here with my 2015 collie in the shop. 10,013 miles on it and they are going to replace the entire engine. I started th proceeding on a buy back. today. Let you know as I find out things. Might be a taco in the future.
What was the reason for the engine change?
I also have an open claim with GM that may turn into a buy back or Lemon Law if they can't fix the problem.

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post #40 of 83 (permalink) Old 10-14-2016, 08:52 AM
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I too would like to know why your engine failed, or any others out there. I beat mine to heck and back, and approaching 13k miles. Nary a problem so far. Knock on wood. I also tried something yesterday. I drove it like a baby, I mean just light on the pedal, and it actually shifted smooth, I mean real smooth. Of course that's no fun, but I was wanting to see the difference in MPG from my normal driving. It's like you either have to baby it, or go balls out on it to not get the erratic shifting. I too don't see the need for a 8 speed. Seems like you would have to put your foot into it even more, but then again, I have never driven with more than a 6. It's all new to me. Should be interesting to test drive one.

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