First oil change V-6 only - Page 2 - Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon
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post #21 of 146 (permalink) Old 12-27-2014, 09:38 PM
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A good tire shop will torque your lugs to what the manufacture calls for.They make extensions for a air gun that give at a set lbs of torque, At discount tire they use a torque wrench to get them to, 100lbs on a old Canyon so they may be close to that now. I think my old Santa Fe was like 85, 140 ft lbs is what the book calls for the new canyon

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post #22 of 146 (permalink) Old 12-28-2014, 01:09 AM
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post #23 of 146 (permalink) Old 12-28-2014, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Kooler King View Post
Does GM limit the free oil changes to 6000 mile intervals or do they just limit the total number to (4)?
Probably varies a little from dealer to dealer, but mine gives you 4 total changes within a 2 year period. I've heard that some dealers will not do a change unless you have reached a certain level of oil life remaining (example less than 20%), so if you put very few miles on the vehicle, it might be possible that you couldn't get all 4. Guys that drive a bunch could possibly use 3 or all 4 in the first year.
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post #24 of 146 (permalink) Old 12-28-2014, 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by 08Canyon View Post
Out of curiosity, what is an average max torque of an impact gun at a shop that replaces tires?
With that said, how much torque can the treads of the studs take before they strip?

I do not mean to question the strength of people, that is not my intent....but is it actually possible to put on a lugnut so tightly that it can't be removed by an average person? I understand there are other situations that can 'tighten' a nut, like rust for example.

But in theory, is the impact wrench the sole reason why a lug nut can't be removed? I mean we remove 300lbft nuts from hubs with hand tools. I think a head bolt can take 200lbft of torque? Why can't we remove a lug nut?

I'm just thinking....if I went and had a tire replaced today then had a flat immediately after, while driving home. Is the lug not going to be stuck if the shop-hand used an impact gun to tighten the wheels?
I wondered also. Had a flat earlier in the year, had to kick and then beat the tire with a 4x4 to knock it off. Rust is my guess. Glad it went flat in the garage. No problem taking the lug nuts off.
But I took the tire in, got three the others as I was already planning to get new tires, it just moved the timing up. Humorously in the 8 years I had it those were the only times I had flat tires.
And to be a bit clearer, it was my hunting partner and I and neither of us are weak. I had to laugh at him when he tried to get them off the first time he's a tough guy, until I tried my first time also. So eventually he would hold one arm of the wrench and I'd stand on the opposite arm and bounce up and down until they finally loosened.
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post #25 of 146 (permalink) Old 12-28-2014, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Ernest t View Post
Probably varies a little from dealer to dealer, but mine gives you 4 total changes within a 2 year period. I've heard that some dealers will not do a change unless you have reached a certain level of oil life remaining (example less than 20%), so if you put very few miles on the vehicle, it might be possible that you couldn't get all 4. Guys that drive a bunch could possibly use 3 or all 4 in the first year.
Right, its up to the dealer. Its all a marketing ploy to drive more business into the service dept. If you get all your free oil changes in the first year, the dealer knows you will probably come back again and they can make money off future service.

Believe me those oil changes aren't free, total cost to GM and the dealer is way less than $100 so they are banking on making more money from you in the future and maybe tempt you into a new vehicle sooner.

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post #26 of 146 (permalink) Old 12-28-2014, 10:45 AM
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Thor great write up and I whole heartily agree with you.

The tire removal conversation should be a whole new thread......

Now......
One thing for all those who do their own maintenance.........
While under the WARRANTY Period,use the specified DEXOS Oil.
Document with receipts from retailers,oil and filter purchases, etc......
AFTER WARRANTY Period...do what you like.

If curious read about the new DEXOS Oil. Lot's of information.
But like on many automotive sites PLEASE Do Not Start an Oil Thread.
(A lot of sites ban those conversations,they end in arguments)
Their is plenty of information out there for all to read and make up their own mind.
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post #27 of 146 (permalink) Old 12-28-2014, 11:01 AM
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GM only recommends what makes them money. They want a monopoly on what you buy for your vehicles and their owner’s manuals and propaganda are designed to affect that end.

Mike

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post #28 of 146 (permalink) Old 12-28-2014, 12:01 PM
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Thank you for the helpful write-up. Very informative and looks like a relatively simple process. I will most likely change my own oil on my new colly. Maybe I'm old fashion but I've always done the typical conventional oil change at 3500 miles and synthetic oil change at around 5000 miles. On the new truck they want me to wait 7000 miles or want me to go off the oil life percentage thing on the computer. Im sure oil quality has come a long way, I have just always been very meticulous when it comes to maintenance, not sure whether to stick with how I've always done it or go by this new computer.
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post #29 of 146 (permalink) Old 12-28-2014, 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by cchrider View Post
Thank you for the helpful write-up. Very informative and looks like a relatively simple process. I will most likely change my own oil on my new colly. Maybe I'm old fashion but I've always done the typical conventional oil change at 3500 miles and synthetic oil change at around 5000 miles. On the new truck they want me to wait 7000 miles or want me to go off the oil life percentage thing on the computer. Im sure oil quality has come a long way, I have just always been very meticulous when it comes to maintenance, not sure whether to stick with how I've always done it or go by this new computer.
Placing trust in this oil life computer is something I'm curious to find out about too. Like you, I prefer changing my oil prior to the recommended service intervals but it is 2015 and I have no experience with these newer vehicle computers to base any current judgements on.
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post #30 of 146 (permalink) Old 12-28-2014, 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by cchrider View Post
Thank you for the helpful write-up. Very informative and looks like a relatively simple process. I will most likely change my own oil on my new colly. Maybe I'm old fashion but I've always done the typical conventional oil change at 3500 miles and synthetic oil change at around 5000 miles. On the new truck they want me to wait 7000 miles or want me to go off the oil life percentage thing on the computer. Im sure oil quality has come a long way, I have just always been very meticulous when it comes to maintenance, not sure whether to stick with how I've always done it or go by this new computer.
Like you...I'ma "Do it yourself kinda guy".
Both my sons bought new cars with the built in maintenance programs that were offered by the factory. Pretty much useless if Ya ask me,but that's my opinion,and we're all intitled to our own opinion. Others will disagree but that's their opinion.
Other than changing the oil n filter,rotating the tires,that's about it. And maybe a visual inspection of everything else.
Buying the supplies and doing it youself isn't all that big of a deal for some of us including myself and possibly you too.
A little time consuming but for me "piece of mind knowing it was done,and done right". On top of that,I also enjoy doing the work......
I do the 5000 mile service cuz it's easy to remember.
What I tell friends/customers..."What ever works for you"......"if it makes you happy,then just do it"!!! Their's no right or wrong answer.
Their are those who choose to not be bothered,so they leave the maintenance task to others. No big deal either! If that works for you GREAT!
Good luck with your new ride! I know I'm enjoying mine!
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post #31 of 146 (permalink) Old 12-28-2014, 02:23 PM
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Takes less time to just do it yourself and it's done right and with better oil too. Imo
When it's my investment, I will not make any mistakes. The mechanics aren't intending to error, it's just not their investment and they do them all day. Errors will be made.

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post #32 of 146 (permalink) Old 12-28-2014, 04:42 PM
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I think we should use the phrase "it's done right" pretty loosely.

Not everybody knows how to do it properly, but they think they do. And in 6 years, 2 vehicles I have not had a problem with my oil changes.

I have zero doubt that my oil changes are being performed properly. And the oil I request is the same oil I'd purchase at the parts store.

I'm not saying people should take it in, or do it themselves. I have changed oil for over 20 years. I'm not afraid of doing it, or loathe it. I just have other stuff I'd rather use my time for.

If people think a do it at home oil change is always done right, I'm sure youtube can prove that to be inaccurate. haha
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post #33 of 146 (permalink) Old 12-29-2014, 10:48 AM
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Oil change done right??

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Originally Posted by 08Canyon View Post
Not everybody knows how to do it properly, but they think they do. And in 6 years, 2 vehicles I have not had a problem with my oil changes.
I usually change my own and have for many years but I took it to a Chevy dealer once and they put an extra quart in that I had to drain out when I got home. Then for my other vehicle I went to a GMC dealer and they put the motor oil in my power steering reservoir and topped it off before finding where the engine oil went. They didn't bother to remove the engine oil from the power steering reservoir and flush the system until I went back and brought it to their attention.

I hope all of you that put your trust in someone else to do the job correctly have better luck than I've had.
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post #34 of 146 (permalink) Old 12-29-2014, 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by V GEHTS View Post
Like you...I'ma "Do it yourself kinda guy".
Both my sons bought new cars with the built in maintenance programs that were offered by the factory. Pretty much useless if Ya ask me,but that's my opinion,and we're all intitled to our own opinion. Others will disagree but that's their opinion.
Other than changing the oil n filter,rotating the tires,that's about it. And maybe a visual inspection of everything else.
Buying the supplies and doing it youself isn't all that big of a deal for some of us including myself and possibly you too.
A little time consuming but for me "piece of mind knowing it was done,and done right". On top of that,I also enjoy doing the work......
I do the 5000 mile service cuz it's easy to remember.
What I tell friends/customers..."What ever works for you"......"if it makes you happy,then just do it"!!! Their's no right or wrong answer.
Their are those who choose to not be bothered,so they leave the maintenance task to others. No big deal either! If that works for you GREAT!
Good luck with your new ride! I know I'm enjoying mine!
Yes sir I've always done my own maintenance or any repairs for that matter. I dont believe I've ever taken a vehicle of mine to a shop. But this being my first vehicle I'm trying to decide whether to do my regular maintenance routine like always or do it the dealerships way. I like doing it myself so I have the piece of mind, it allows me to see first hand what's going on, any issues or premature wear on anything. Something a young inexperience lube tech at a dealership could over look simple because its not his vehicle.
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post #35 of 146 (permalink) Old 12-29-2014, 11:19 AM
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Always told myself as a youngster I would never pay someone to change my oil. But as disposal of oil became a bigger issue as well as the oil filter, and most of the time I can get an oil change done for about same price as oil & filter will costs me, I have broken down. When I moved into an apartment for a period of time to go back to school as an old man, I decided to start paying for oil changes.

Issues I have seen are shops trying to convince me to do other work - last time I took my Wrangler to a NTB shop, they told me I needed a front brake job at some outlandish costs. Said no thanks, went and bought pads, and discovered I probably had 20K left on the pads on the Wrangler - changed them anyway since I already had it tore down and was already dirty. Later discovered they had forgotten to put the oil filler plug back in the engine, had to spend $10 on a replacement. Daughter had much worse luck with NTB, so they lost not only my oil change business, but tires on two Wranglers as well. I am sure it has not hurt their bottom line.

With three daughters, I did not get to teach a lot of auto mechanics to them. However, one of the rules I had for them to get their driver's license, and for wife to go out of town, they had to know how to change a flat tire. Middle daughter took it a step further, and had me teach her an oil change as well - after her first one on a Ford Escort, she decided she would pay for them. Also taught wife how to use jumper cables - doubt she remembers at this point. But if I had to explain over the phone to her, I think she could follow the instructions.

I have had less issues with dealer oil changes, though they try to sell you unneeded services a lot as well. Uninformed consumers, especially single women, seem to be hot targets for the upsells.

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post #36 of 146 (permalink) Old 12-29-2014, 12:25 PM
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I think the suggestions from a shop to have extra repairs are somewhat required. I THINK if they advertise as doing inspections, like 15 point or whatever, it is up to them to inform you of things that may require service. Otherwise, you can go back to them and say 'you never told me my brakes were bad'.

Considering many people actually go to service centers because they do not know how to check, or repair, it is on the center to inform the driver their vehicle is falling apart. I think warning people of failures is safer than not telling them at all. We all know people who are clueless about what they are driving.

A point was made above, about doing inspections such as looking at the condition of your oil. Many don't know to do that, yet they get the satisfaction of doing it themselves. I know a guy who will change oil because he want's to feel valuable. All dressed up in clothes that he isn't afraid to get dirty (garage overalls), gloves. A closed container to drain oil into. etc. His idea is pull the drain plug. Refill with clean oil. Carry sealed container to shop. At no point has he inspected the oil for contaminants.
A shop will never inspect the used oil either.

The main reason why I've been taking my truck to an oil change facility is for warranty tracking. It is outlined the oil shall be changed at specific intervals. For me the cost differential from purchasing my own oil vs. paying for service is worth it in the event of a warranty claim. I can't hire a lawyer cheap enough to prove that I am a certified mechanic and know how to change oil, and that my engine seizure was not at the fault of mine. I'm not a certified mechanic, but in court I had better be persuasive if I want a free $5,000 engine. At least with a record of maintenance intervals I have at least one foot to stand on.
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post #37 of 146 (permalink) Old 12-29-2014, 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Thor18 View Post
Okay, I could not wait until 6000 miles To have Chevy change my oil. On my 2015 Chevy Colorado LT with the V-6. So here are some tips to help you have a easy time of it. It is a very easy change by the way.

1 You will need a 15 mm socket to remove the oil plug.
2. You will need a 24mm socket to remove oil filter.
3. 6 U.S quarts 5/30
4. A/C Delco # PF2129F cartridge filter
5. Large oil basin.
6. Oil rags for clean up.

Procedure-1. Place catch basin below drain plug, it will begin to drip slowly as you unscrew the plug. When you get near the end though move basin far to the left. When you pull the plug, the flow arches very far, farther than any car I've ever changed oil on. Then move basin as flow reduces.
After you let oil drain for 5 mins and no more oil is dripping down, replace drain plug. (Truck should be slightly warm so oil flows well).

As far as identifying the oil drain plug, its at the bottom of the engine, not the transmission which is farther back. its the plug closest to the front debris shield that protects the bottom side of the engine from rocks and such. The oil pan on this truck have a very distinctive look. It looks like a upside down mountain with the peak flattened. The plug is mounted horizontal pointing towards the passenger side of the truck. Its 15mm in size.

2. After you replace the drain plug, then use a socket wrench with a long extension with a 24mm socket on the end to remove oil filter which is located on top side of engine on right. Twist socket to the left to loosen, then hand loosen. Place rag near as you pull cap up and around some hoses to remove cartridge filter. Very little oil drips.
My filter remained attached to cap. If yours doesn't come out with cap, pull filter out by hand. The paper cartridge has two gaskets, one on the top and bottom of the filter. Make sure both gaskets come out with paper filter. When I pulled mine out of the cap, the one gasket stuck to the bottom of the cap. (See attached picture to see stuck gasket) I then got a pair of needle nose pliers and pulled it off. There is a another ring gasket on base of the cap. It's blue in color and looks like a skinny rubber band. Take that one off too with needle nose (carefully) and replace with new one that comes with filter. Make sure to place new gasket back in same exact groove that you removed the old one from.

3. Place new filter in cap (will snug into place) and carefully maneuver cap back into engine bay, again around the hoses, and slowly place filter and cap in original opening. Twist by hand until snug. Then take a torque wrench and 24mm socket with extension and tighten to 25lbs ft pd. it's marked on top of cap.

4. Next, remove oil fill cap (top, right side of engine.) if you haven't already and place funnel in hole. Do not place funnel too far down hole or oil will not enter engine. Position it just inside opening. Specs call for 6 U.S. Qt of 5/30. Poor oil slowly. If you pour too fast it will back up. I placed my used oil back into the new containers that I just emptied. Six qts seem just right, but always double check dip stick for proper settings.

5. Run motor, check for leaks, after about a min turn motor offf ( unless it's leaking then turn it off right away and check problem are for issues.) Then, give it a few mins to drain back into bottom of engine pan, and recheck dip stick for proper levels. Then you're done!

Disclaimer: These are just somethings I observed when changing my oil for the first time in my new truck. I am not a professional mechanic, nor claim to be a expert. but I wanted to pass on some items that may make your first oil change on your new truck a little easier. Always follow your manufacturers procedures for warranty and safety.
Just did my first oil change ever (on a car) and I have you and your instructions to thank. Im a kid by most standards and on the verge of becoming a father. It occurred to me the other day that there's no way I can be a proper dad without knowing how to change a cars oil, so despite only having 1400 miles on my Colorado I did it anyway. A little under 6 quarts amsoil signature series and topped it off with a little redline oil break in additive. Cheers homie. Here's to being a man.
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post #38 of 146 (permalink) Old 12-29-2014, 09:29 PM
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I think this is appropriate in this discussion we are having here:

https://www.yahoo.com/diy/young-peop...523138575.html

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post #39 of 146 (permalink) Old 12-29-2014, 10:28 PM
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I think this is appropriate in this discussion we are having here:

https://www.yahoo.com/diy/young-peop...523138575.html
All those articles are getting old. The baby boomers are just frustrated becaus now we can figure out how to change a cars oil with Google in 10 minutes and your still trying to program the vcr. don't take it the wrong way. Even though it took me a few minutes I do appreciate my new skill. Also I got the right plug the first try. Idk how you can mistake it either.
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post #40 of 146 (permalink) Old 12-29-2014, 10:36 PM
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Originally Posted by CHUCKVANSTINKLE View Post
All those articles are getting old. The baby boomers are just frustrated becaus now we can figure out how to change a cars oil with Google in 10 minutes and your still trying to program the vcr. don't take it the wrong way. Even though it took me a few minutes I do appreciate my new skill. Also I got the right plug the first try. Idk how you can mistake it either.
How did you spin the truck once you got the wrench on the hex?
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Event status 3000 12/15/14. Still at 3000 12/29/14. Status 3000 01/05/15. Status 3000 01/12/15. Status 3400 no VIN or TPW 01/17/15. Got VIN, and waiting transportation 01/27/15. On the train 02/04/15. At dealer 02/13/15, taking delivery 02/18/15; 100 days stock to dock.
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