First oil change V-6 only - Page 8 - Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon
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post #141 of 146 (permalink) Old 03-23-2017, 02:12 PM
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Cape May County, NJ
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Many thanks!

Originally Posted by njacobsen View Post
PAR answered your question about the gaskets correctly. The canister for the filter has one o-ring that needs to be replaced each time you change the filter. The latest Mobil 1 filters I purchased came with the o-ring in the box.

When I changed I removed the filter, one of the filter end gaskets stuck inside the canister. They should not do that, but it is important to look inside the canister and at the ends of the filter that you remove to be certain the gaskets are still attached to the filter.

Good luck with your oil change. It is actually quite easy.
Thank you! I really appreciate your help!

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post #142 of 146 (permalink) Old 04-08-2017, 09:44 PM
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Location: Melbourne, FL
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GM obviously moved the oil filter in the 2017s and buried it below some of the AC hoses and wiring. I needed three 1/2" drive extensions (one long and 2 short) to get the 24mm socket down to the cap. I just hit 1,000 miles and did my first oil change....Kudos to those who stated the oil initially shoots out of the drain plug.

I am confused on the proper oil filter. Based on the internet and checking multiple sources the I could not initially find an AC Delco filter....based on the websites recommendation I procured the Wix 57090. When I removed the filter cap, it was not the same was secured in the the filter cap with four plastic feet/prongs and has no o-rings like the Wix Filter. Based on the fact I always use AC Delco Filters and like that the filter is attached to the filter cap (makes it easier to remove being buried under the AC hose and wiring). So I assume that the O-Ring included with the WIX filter is for the filter cap, right?

After bouncing across a few FLAPS (Friendly Local Auto Parts Stores) websites; I found the AC Delco PF2257G which matched the filter I removed my 2017 V6 Gasser and looks the same, but other sites say it does not fit my vehicle.

So FYI to the 2015/2016 owners....on the 2017 they buried the cap so you need a step stool to lean over to see it just above the exhaust headers on the drivers side....

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post #143 of 146 (permalink) Old 04-11-2017, 06:20 PM
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Location: Kentucky
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My filter cover is welded on. not surehow much they torqued it but I can't get it to move just to make sure there's an arrow on top pointing clockwise is that how you loosen it or that how you tighten it I don't want to over tighten something that's already too tight and maybe break something any help is appreciated
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post #144 of 146 (permalink) Old 04-11-2017, 09:16 PM
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The cover has standard threads. left to loosen.
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post #145 of 146 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 11:11 PM
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Changed my oil tonight on my 2017 crew cab 3.6L with 1388 miles. Not the most difficult vehicle to change oil in by a long shot but that canister filter location is just....odd. Got it done fairly quickly. Torqued everything properly (thanks everyone for the torque specs on here). Put 6 qts in and let it run. Waited about 30 minutes and checked the oil level. Only came up about half way on the dipstick. GRRR. That's one of my pet peeves. I know it's OK but it bugs me. I'll likely top it off later. Getting the new filter to go down over the pipe inside the housing was a bit of a pain with that cloth-like gasket thing on it. Oh and as was said above (thanks again) PF2257G is the filter for the 2017s. The computer at wally world spit out the wrong number (I assume it was the one for the 2016s). Good luck!

Last edited by Neil Bedwell; 05-17-2017 at 08:04 AM.
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post #146 of 146 (permalink) Old 05-20-2017, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Thor18 View Post
Okay, I could not wait until 6000 miles To have Chevy change my oil. On my 2015 Chevy Colorado LT with the V-6. So here are some tips to help you have a easy time of it. It is a very easy change by the way.

1 You will need a 15 mm socket to remove the oil plug.
2. You will need a 24mm socket to remove oil filter.
3. 6 U.S quarts 5/30 dexos approved
4. A/C Delco # PF2129F cartridge filter
5. Large oil basin.
6. Oil rags for clean up.

Procedure-1. Run motor for a few mins and warm engine. Turn motor offf. Then, place catch basin under truck, right below the oil drain plug. Use socket wrench with 15mm socket. Turn to left to loosen. it will begin to drip slowly as you unscrew the plug. When you get near the end though move basin far to the left. When you pull the plug, the flow arches very far, farther than any car I've ever changed oil on. Then move basin as flow reduces.
After you let oil drain for 5 mins and no more oil is dripping down, replace drain plug. (Truck should be slightly warm so oil flows well). Also don't forget to go to dealer and get new gasket and replace drain plug gasket periodically.

As far as identifying the oil drain plug, it's at the bottom of the engine, not the transmission, which is farther back. It's the plug closest to the front debris shield that protects the bottom side of the engine from rocks and such. The oil pan on this truck have a very distinctive look. It looks like a upside down mountain with the peak flattened. The plug is mounted horizontal pointing towards the passenger side of the truck. Its 15mm in size.

2. After you replace the drain plug, thighten it snug tight. Manuel says 15lb of torque. Don't over tighten. Next use a socket wrench with a long extension with a 24mm socket on the end to remove oil filter which is located on top side of engine on right. Twist socket to the left to loosen, then hand loosen. Place rag near as you pull cap up and around some hoses to remove cartridge filter. Very little oil drips.
My filter remained attached to cap. If yours doesn't come out with cap, pull filter out by hand. The paper cartridge has two gaskets, one on the top and one at the bottom of the filter. Make sure both gaskets come out with paper filter. When I pulled mine out of the cap, the one gasket stuck to the bottom of the cap. (See attached picture to see stuck gasket) I then got a pair of needle nose pliers and pulled it off. There is a another ring gasket on base of the cap. It's blue in color and looks like a skinny rubber band. Take that one off too with needle nose (carefully) and replace with new one that comes with filter. Since there are multiple grooves, make sure to place new gasket back in same exact groove that you removed the old one from. Then take some clean oil and lubricator threads on cap to facilitate easy installation and removal next time.

3. Place new filter in cap (will snug into place) and carefully maneuver cap back into engine bay, again around the hoses, and slowly place filter and cap in original opening. Twist by hand until snug. Then take a torque wrench and 24mm socket with extension and tighten to 22lb ft pd. it's marked on top of cap.

4. Next, remove oil fill cap (top, right side of engine.) if you haven't already and place funnel in hole. Do not place funnel too far down hole or oil will not enter engine. Position it just inside opening. Specs call for 6 U.S. Qt of 5/30. Poor oil slowly. If you pour too fast it will back up. I placed my used oil back into the new containers that I just emptied. Six qts seem just right, but always double check dip stick for proper settings.

5. Run motor, check for leaks, after about a min turn motor offf ( unless it's leaking then turn it off right away and check problem are for issues.) Then, give it a few mins to drain back into bottom of engine pan, and recheck dip stick for proper levels. Then you're done!

Disclaimer: These are just somethings I observed when changing my oil for the first time in my new truck. I am not a professional mechanic, nor claim to be a expert. but I wanted to pass on some items that may make your first oil change on your new truck a little easier. Always follow your manufacturers procedures for warranty and safety.

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