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Catalytic Converter failure at 45,000 miles

19K views 31 replies 21 participants last post by  GeorgeT451 
#1 ·
So my 2016 spit out an error code and apparently the CC is dead. Ignoring the fact that the part is backordered and they have zero ETA, should I be concerned?

I'm worried about the fact there has been zero conversation about what might cause a failure this early. My admittedly limited understanding would suggest that they don't fail without a larger problem being the source. My big concern is simply replacing the unit and hiding a greater issue until I'm out of warranty and stuck with major repairs.

A few minutes searching here and google turns up zero similar cases, and I'm not quite sure what I am within my rights to insist upon with the dealership.

Has anyone ever had or heard of a situation like this? If so, any advice or feedback would be great!

Thanks in advance.
 
#2 · (Edited)
Yes you are correct in your thinking.

Most times a converter will fail due to things like an intake gasket or head gasket leak letting anti freeze into the engine cylinder. Same for oil can happen too.

There are other things that can damage a converter.

Generally they just do not go bad all by them selves.

You may want your get a look at the damaged converter and see if you can see just how it was damaged.

Once that is determined you also may need to replace the O2 sendores too. I had a car lose an intake gasket with a slow leak. It took out the converter and sensors. The anti freeze send down very little but over time the code set and once the gasket was fixed I hit a code for the sensors. Then the converter set a code.

I think you may have an isolated issue here but it can happen to any engine if you build enough of them. I have not seen any majors issues on the truck engines.
 
#3 ·
Sorry for the delayed response, wanted to make sure I had something to actually report back. First of all, thanks for the response, it helped stave off some of the panic.

In the end, the dealership managed to finally locate a converter and get it replaced. I asked if they looked into any potential causes, and without going into much detail they said they did and were convinced it was an isolated issue. We agreed to some sort of handshake deal that if this one goes out prematurely as well, its on the record and they will do everything they can to make sure they and Chevy take care of me. Not sure I believe them, but also not sure what choice I have other than consulting a Lemon Law lawyer here in CA.

Did immediately see mileage improvement once it was replaced and codes have obviously been cleared. Still feel like the MPG is low especially compared to when I first got it, but will do a little more driving and explore the forum to see if that's just in my head.

Thanks again guys, I love this forum for exactly this kind of thing!
 
#4 ·
A couple things could cause it. Exhaust leak changing temp, bad unit from factory, your air/fuel ratio being off. It might be worth it to take it to a speed shop dyno day and get the AFR checked on a dyno pull, usually 50-75 bucks. You could also pull the plugs and look for 1 thats different color than the others after driving a few hundred miles with the new setup. You could find a stuck injector or bad plug not firing.

9 Tips to Save your Catalytic Converter - Hot Rod Network
 
#5 ·
Not sure anyone mentioned it. If your vehicle is 8 years old or newer, and has less than 80k miles on it, the government will pay to replace your cats under a government warranty. I had 2x done on my Nissan Frontier that way. One at 67k and one at 78k. Normally a 1275.00 job per side (Nissan) I paid 0 for either.
 
#6 · (Edited)
In my limited experience with CCs, it is usually a failed gasket allowing coolant or oil into the cylinder or a mis-fire. Usually there is more than 1 code when CCs go out, the p0420 for CC inefficiency plus a p0300 indicating a mis-fire, the mis-fire could be from coolant or oil fouling the plug, a bad plug wire or a bad coil pack for whichever bank has the misfire. I believe our trucks have a coil for each plug, but havent looked into it to know for certain. It would be nice to know what caused the early failure.

There was another member that had a CC fail and I dont think the dealership gave him much insight into what caused the failure
 
#7 ·
I've seen raw fuel kill them more than anything. Dealerships don't give root causes because the days of having techs that can actually trouble-shoot are over. They read a code and unbolt/replace a part the computer tells them is bad. There's a reason why every time something seems unexplained they outsource it to a regional troubleshooting engineer for consultation or a quick trip there to diagnose.
 
#9 ·
Yes all your emissions related parts are covered for a much longer time due to government requirements. This can and will include plugs and plug wires in most cases. That is why they are now putting in better plugs in most vehicles today.


The government is not paying for crap. They only take.
 
#10 ·
I'm worried about the fact there has been zero conversation about what might cause a failure this early. My admittedly limited understanding would suggest that they don't fail without a larger problem being the source. My big concern is simply replacing the unit and hiding a greater issue until I'm out of warranty and stuck with major repairs.

.
Good points. You are the first here with a Gen II Twins CC failure that I have seen.

IT might be a good idea to impress upon the Dealer Service Writer & Manager, that you would like to know what caused the failure. That said, they may not know or care.

Then all you can do is rely on the continued Emissions Systems Warranty which is quite long.
 
#17 ·
Here is something that may help someone. Many people never think to look at what is or what is not covered under warranty. Some things can be surprising. Note as the norm California can vary in time and coverage.


The emission parts listed here are
covered under the Emission Control
System Warranty. The terms are
explained previously in this section
under the [FONT=Arial+20][FONT=Arial+20][/FONT][/FONT]Federal Emission Control
System Warranty[FONT=Arial+20][FONT=Arial+20][/FONT][/FONT]and the
[FONT=Arial+20][FONT=Arial+20][/FONT][/FONT][FONT=Arial+20][FONT=Arial+20][/FONT][/FONT]California Emission Control System
Warranty.[FONT=Arial+20][FONT=Arial+20][/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial+20][FONT=Arial+20] [/FONT][/FONT]Important: Certain parts may be
covered beyond these warranties if
shown with asterisk(s) as follows:
[FONT=PI_chars_1][FONT=PI_chars_1][/FONT][/FONT][FONT=PI_chars_1][FONT=PI_chars_1]. [/FONT][/FONT](*) 7 years/70,000 miles,
whichever comes first, California
Emission Control System
Warranty coverage.
[FONT=PI_chars_1][FONT=PI_chars_1][/FONT][/FONT][FONT=PI_chars_1][FONT=PI_chars_1]. [/FONT][/FONT](**) 8 years/80,000 miles,
whichever comes first, Federal
Emission Control System
Warranty coverage.
All listed parts 15 years/
150,000 miles, whichever comes
first, on California PZEV (NU6)
vehicles registered in a PZEV state
except Hybrid batteries and Hybrid
A/C compressors, which are
covered for 10 years/150,000 miles,
whichever comes first.
Powertrain Control System
Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor
Camshaft Position Actuator *
Camshaft Position Actuator Valve
Coolant Sensor
Data Link Connector
Engine Control Module (ECM) **
Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
Flex Fuel Sensor
Fuel Control Module **
Humidity Sensor
Intake Air Temperature Sensor
Malfunction Indicator Lamp
Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor
Mass Air Flow Sensor
Oil Pressure Sensor
Outside Air Temperature Sensor
Oxygen Sensor(s)
Powertrain Control Module (PCM) **
Thermostat
Throttle Position Sensor
Vehicle Control Module (VCM) **
Vehicle Speed Sensor
Ignition System
Camshaft Position Sensor(s)
Crankshaft Position Sensor(s)
Glow Plug(s) (Diesel)
Glow Plug Controller (Diesel)
Ignition Coil(s)
Ignition Control Module
Knock Sensor
Spark Plug Wires
Spark Plugs
Transmission Controls and
Torque Management
Clutch Solenoids and Switches
Control Solenoids and Pressure
Switches
Internal Mode Switch
Park/Neutral Switch
Transmission Control Module **
Transmission Fluid Temperature
Sensor
Transmission Speed Sensors
 
#18 ·
Over in the Chevy Equinox/GMC Terrain forum, the 2.4L 4 bangers have a long history of fuel pump seal failures that would dump extra fuel on the Direct Injection engines. The excess gas would raise the oil level in the crankcase and thin it out. Many owners that had their engines repaired under the service bulletin experienced failures of the CC's shortly after the repairs were made. I had a 2014 Equinox with the 2.4 that started dumping fuel at about 14,000 miles. That is when I jumped over to the 3.6 V6. I can not recall any 3.6 fuel pump failures over there which also uses the D.I. method.
 
#19 ·
I'm currently replacing cats on a new 971, very low miles. Heck, I paid many bills replacing cats on A4 chassis Golfs and Jettas back in the day under warranty. I look at it like they coat the ceramic honey comb with as little precious metals to save a buck until the warranty term is over. I am watching what may happen when the DFI 991's and up with the current multi inject cold start cat fire up mode, starts to put wear on the cats. Concerns me cause my old dumb 02 dodge with a cracked block never set a cat or O2 fault, but these newer units are a little more "tight" with the engine light. By the way, what fuel do you use, 87 or 93? Cheers!
 
#21 ·
not meaning to revises such an old thread. but i just had my cat go bad on my 2015 2.5l at 40k. wondering if its an isolated failure or something else. seemed to have come on after i went thru a large puddle across the road during a large rain storm. was intermittent for awhile and now it stays on. truck is currently at the dealer getting it replaced as well as the trans and diff fluid changed.
 
#24 ·
Highly unlikely. Modern converters have extensive heat shielding wrapping the monolith, with an airspace between the wrap and the outer shell. And they're designed to be hung underneath the vehicle where they're going to encounter water splashes as well as snow. There would have to be a ton of cold water on the outer shell (think submersing it) to create enough thermal shock to damage the monolith.

I wonder if you can remove the cat and gut it out with a hammer and long screwdriver..i did this on my 94 camaro, never had an issue ...just a note: no emission test in my location. ?
It's your truck, you can do whatever you like. Removing or gutting a converter is a violation of Federal Emissions Laws, however the EPA doesn't have an enforcement arm.

However I remember the brown air that hung over a whole lot of cities back in the '70s, and I happily run a converter now.
 

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#26 ·
The emission warranty should be at least 100,000 miles and that is considered emission component. Might even be 150,000 miles.
 
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