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Bose "Premium Audio" Specifications (including door panel removal beginning Post #31)

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#1 · (Edited)
Bose "Premium Audio" Specifications (including door panel removal beginning Post #31)

Specs on the 7 speaker Bose system.

Here's what I have so far; (Credit mostly goes to: kemit, jeffdawgfan, and yakcam41):

TRUCK: 2015 GMC Canyon, with Bose speakers, amp, and Navigation
RPO Codes (these are option codes used by GM to identify your system):
IO6 and UQA. IO6 describes our "infotainment system" with Nav, and UQA is our speaker system (premium audio branded with amplifier)

DASH: 3" speakers on each side, not true tweeters at all, but two-ways mid/highs instead. Must pull away a-pillar molding and then remove upper dash trim piece (use force to unclip), then use 7mm socket for bolts. Be careful of wire to little red sensor in center dash. Also, don't forget to reconnect said little red sensor wire (thanks jeffdawgfan).

FRONT DOOR: factory non-standard 6"x9" (low freq only, from amp). Use speaker adapter Metra 82-3004 to fit standard sized 6x9's. Or you can use Metra 82-3005 to convert down to 6.5 rounds. Also, to replace, do not completely remove the door panel! Just remove the screws, fronts have 5, rear has 4, then just one screw on the speaker plus a friction clip (thanks goes to kemit, below). Leave the panel hanging from the top, because of difficulty during reassembly (and why perform unnecessary work?).

REAR DOOR: factory non-standard 6" round, can fit up to 6.75" round. Speaker adapter for the rear is Schoshe SAGMHR-634. To replace, do not completely remove the door panel! Just remove the screws, fronts have 5, rear has 4, then just one screw on the speaker plus a friction clip (thanks goes to kemit, below). Leave the panel hanging from the top, because of difficulty during reassembly (and why perform unnecessary work?).

FACTORY AMP PLACEMENT, SIZE: 7 ch amp, behind glove box, to the right of cabin air filter. Non-bose has no external amp, but does have a "4-channel box" behind radio display.

FRONT/REAR DOOR SPEAKER HARNESS: Metra 72-5600. Although it says 98-up Ford, it fits (verified by Kemit; also, see his info below, with pics, on the easy way to get to the speakers).

FRONT DOOR SPEAKER ADAPTER FOR STANDARD 6X9's: Metra 82-3004

FRONT DOOR CONVERT TO BETWEEN 6" AND 6.75" ROUNDS: Metra 82-3005

REAR DOOR BETWEEN 6.5" AND 6.75" ROUNDS: Schoshe SAGMHR-634

GENERAL INFORMATION:
- Audio out from behind the stereo travels over the MOST (Media Oriented Systems Transport) communication bus. It is NOT analog, unfortunately
- Audio out is the rightmost, small gray harness behind stereo
- Audio in to amp is topmost brown harness on amp (passenger floor board)
- Audio out from amp is both the 16-pin green harness (nearly all speakers), and bottommost 8-pin black harness (just the front doors)
- See pics below for more info
 

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#80 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chief2016 View Post
What everyone seems to overlook is the BOSE system is proprietary. The amps are equalized to match the installed speakers and the acoustic environment. Any modifications to speakers is a waste of money/time/effort. BOSE speakers are far from the best, but the system is EQ optimized to get accurate sound from them. If you have a BOSE system, leave as is. The EQ from the amps will not produce accurate sound from any other speaker regardless of ohms. How accurate a system sounds is perception of the listener. How accurate a system performs is a function of design. Of those modifying the BOSE, if you put a spectrum analyzer on the stock vs modified system you will find you have degraded/destroyed accurate source frequency response. Again, how a system sounds is the perception of the listener. If you like your mods better, that's great. Have at it. If you want sound that is a more accurate replication of the source, leave it alone. If you prefer the center dash speaker disconnected, this should not compromise accurate sound reproduction as it does not change the EQ of the system.:nerd:


This is absolutely the most accurate piece of information I've seen in these Bose audio threads. This also applies to any other manufacturers "premium" audio systems. The use of a DSP and digital amplifiers that are tuned and tweaked to match the speakers means that replacing the speakers is futile if you are after more accurate sound quality. You must do a ground up install to get more accurate audio fidelity. Notice I used the word accurate and not better. Since listening is a subjective thing it's quite possible replacing speakers might adjust the equalization of the system to your personal liking.


As far as the center dash speaker goes my take on this one is that it's impossible to get accurate imaging when you are sitting off center from the speakers and have a giant piece of glass in front of your face. So, disconnect, don't disconnect this is simply personal preference.



So I kept BOSE amp...replaced ALL speakers...added a sub, amp and LOC with equalizer and I will tell you that the system sounds 100 percent better!!!!!!!!! I will provide details if any one wants.....I did it myself so if a 'professional' is saying they have to start from scratch...they don't know what they're talking about (or they may just want your money).

BOSE may be optimized to make 'junk' sound better, but it is up-gradable
 
#82 ·
Long post

Have read some interesting and puzzling things in this thread.

I have been upgrading and replacing audio in my cars since the 80's. Am I an expert, no. I still read forums like these for tips and tricks on other' s experience. Replacing factory with aftermarket speakers, most definitely makes a difference to my ears and to everyone else I speak with. With the bose odd speaker impedance... that could change the amount of output from the new speakers, possibly causing the bose ambience to be altered which should seems could be corrected with eq/balance settings. I can't see how it would remove anything, except total output.

This will be my 3rd vehicle with bose.

Traded my 08 Rogue which I added amp and sub only replacing bose factory sub. That system sounded flat wit the radio, much better with my player or cd, plenty of volume. It definitely flattened out as the volume increased. I used a re-q to offset that with my amp and sub. Oh I tried a capacitor for a while did not seem to make any difference to my dimming lights when the bass hit.

Wife has 10 Altima, with bose. Much cleaner and better stage, but not enough volume for me. I did add 8 inch powered bazooka to hers. Crutchfield did not have wiring yet, so my wife called salesman and he got the info for me.


On my Canyon, radio sounds decent has about the right amount of volume, my mp3 player sounds a bit flat and is not loud enough (using aux connection). I definitely plan to add my sub . I don't have a custom box, will probably just place it and hope to secure it on back seat. Amp will be under back seat. I am also thinking about replacing center dash and all doors, possibly adding amp to rear speakers to give me some fill. Hope the alternator can handle it :wink2: I will tie into rear speakers and try rear 12v as a amp turn on.
I like all of the factory gizmos so not interested in changing head unit. If the bose amp was in the back I might look to bypass or mod it.

Center speaker I was looking at infinity 6032 but saw it won't fit without carving...no sale. Alpine looks to have one that works.

Front doors 6x9 for the bass, seems like even if they are only for lows, the full range will work without cutting the tweeter as someone mentioned, if the bose is only pushing 30-500 hz or whatever to the speaker, the mid/tweeter would just be silent correct?

6 3/4 for the rear, and may add small amp if I need more noise.


I am done now, I'll shut up and listen.
 
#83 ·
This thread has some great info.....
My 2000 Pont GTP had a Bose system that I was extremely disappointed with. (Weak highs, bass seemed binary - all or nothing) I didn't mess with the speakers, but when the CD player tanked I installed an entry level Pioneer HU. I was amazed by the improvement in clarity with just that change. My current Buick also has a Bose system and while it is better than the old one in the GTP it is still underwhelming.

I will see how the Bose system in my truck does, probably will need to tweak it for better clarity. I like tight, solid bass but don't need the rattle the car next to me.:roll: :smile:
 
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#84 ·
be careful guys. I was doing my sub install getting everything in and someone on my block must have saw this. Since it was broke into the next weekend. I had not got the sub or amp totally done and it was not in there when they broke into it. My brother in law last month had his jeep catalytic converter stolen off the bottom of his jeep a month or two ago and just last night my best friend in NM Alb came out to find his brand new Chrysler 300 sitting on blocks. They stole his rims and got the hood opened and stole his CAI right in his driveway. Lucky the paperboy saw them and reported the plate and they were busted about a hour ago. I really need a locking gas cap until I make room in the garage for the truck.
 
#88 ·
I agree with your premise, however I disagree that you can not keep the head and Bose amp and "highly" enhance the audio and I intend on proving my point, stay tuned. I already have a Rockford Fosgate 10" sub with a 300 watt amp (It freaking rocks, talking about adding bass....), now I want to add (its on the way) Rockford Fosgate 3-way door speakers front and back, 6x9's in the front and 5 1/2's in the back (I have the adapters required). I will feed the speaker outputs from the Bose amp to a JL Audio JX400/4D (high side) then drive the 4 new speakers with the JL amp. My one unknown is what to do about the low outputs for the front. I have a few days to figure this out, idk, maybe I will use the dash outs from the bose, idk...thinking about it. If nothing else I will stay as is and lose my mid/hi's on the 6x9, but drive 75watts to the woofers.
 
#89 ·
@Morbius, I am very interested in your setup. My JL Audio Amp is on the way, received my Rockford Fosgate speakers today. How exactly did you tie everything together. Here is my plan, I have already installed the Fosgate 10" Sub, rocks, now I am going to add the JL Audio JX 400/4D amp, run the speaker outputs from the Bose Amp to the high side inputs of the JL Audio Amp, then run the JL Audio Amp outputs to the new 3-way RockFord Fosgate door speakers 6x9s in the front and 6.75's in the back. I have the Metra adapters for both, I also (if I can get them in there) have the Boom Mat's for both front and back. Of course I have high quality speaker wire and a Rockford Fosgate RFK4 4 AWG Amplifier kit. What do you think? I plan (for now) to keep the dash speakers as is.
 
#90 ·
rcbarr, What inputs did you use for your sub? I used existing BOSE high levels (that go to front doors) for my HS8 amp and the bass is spectacular now. These outputs are located on black wiring harness on BOSE amp-- four leads for doors and +/-. I then tied into all the high level outs from BOSE amp (green wiring harness) and fed into an AudioControl LCQ1...The LCQ1 gives me RCA outputs which I fed into a 600W Blaupunkt amp which now powers the front and rear doors. Sounds similar to your plan. I replaced the two corner dash speakers, but kept the existing leads from BOSE amp.

Whoa...sounds complicated...and it was, BUT well worth the effort if you want truly awesome sound and YOU CAN STILL KEEP EXISTING HEAD UNIT.

rc....let me know if you want more details...One of the hardest parts was running new wires for door speakers since I didn't splice into existing wires--too hard to find the ones in front....but sounds like you're running harness from BOSE amp which is what I should have done....

P.S. I was able to mount sub, amp and LOC under rear seats with very minimal trimming....
 
#91 ·
@Morbius
>> rcbarr, What inputs did you use for your sub?
Because I had it installed I have not ran down the wires yet, but I will let you know. At least they did it right, everything works beautifully. I should have my amp in a couple days, I will follow up soon.

Morbius, one thing you said above caught my eye, "I used existing BOSE high levels (that go to front doors)", I was under the impression that the Bose AMP outputs to the front door speakers were low to mid only, is that wrong?
 
#92 ·
You are correct, BOSE front door speakers receive low frequencies from black amp harness. I tied into these (which are high level analog wires) to feed my HS8 Kicker amp, which gives me way more bass than I need.

To run all other speakers, I used the BOSE green wiring harness.

Are you gonna wire the other stuff yourself? Let us know how it all turns out. I couldn't be more happy with my sound now:grin2:
 
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#93 ·
@Morbius....Help!!!!

The freaking door panels (front), 3 screws, one behind the door handle, two at the bottom, pull from the bottom and the push pins start releasing, pull all the way around to the window, done! SOMETHING is holding me at the door handle what is the freaking trick there. Did you remove the panel all the way, front and back? And if you would "please....." walk me through how you removed the front door panels. I have searched the planet and no manual exist except for one they want 200 for, sight unseen, pass.....can you walk me through it, I will buy you a coffee :)
 
#95 ·
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#96 ·
Man, memo to self, if you don't listen to anything Morbius saids, at least listen to the previous post.
> Don't pull the door panels all the way off. I propped mine out with stick and then gave me enough access to work on speaker area.

Three hours later, speaker one installed, what took so long, PUTTING THE FREAKING DOOR PANEL BACK ON, rofl. Damnnnnnnnn
 
#97 ·
Morbius, I do have a dilemma, so I installed 3-way full range 6x9s in the front (will drive them with a JL Audio JX400/4D), but the outputs from the Bose, lows only on the front, hmmm. My stereo guy saids just run the 2 outputs to the back (from the Bose, full range) to the (4) inputs on the JL Audio, what do you think. I "need" full range on the front 6x9s, where do I get it. Could take it from the dash corners, center, idk....or just do what the stereo guy saids. What did you do? Have to figure out this one last design question. BTW: I am compiling and documenting everything, w/pictures and will post once I am done.
 
#98 ·
Yeah, I think what stereo guy recommended sounds good...

I used full range for my front and rear doors. I tied into the BOSE amp for this (Green wiring harness). From the green harness I used ouputs that go to rear doors and the center channel going to center dash speakers. I 'summed' the signal via the LCQ1 and then fed that to my amp. You should be able to get full range by using just the rear door speaker outputs from BOSE. Since you already have sub feeding full range to doors is probably a good option.

Let me know if any more questions. Keep the faith, final results will be worth it.

P.S. The stinking kevlar tape or whatever it is GM uses to wrap the wire is a royal PITA
 
#99 ·
rdbarr....attached pic of that green harness coming from BOSE amp...use the RR and LR outputs to get full range.

I also used the center dash outputs, but you don't need that one....
 

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#101 ·
Im going to toss this out there, even though my question is for a non-bose. I added a Kenwood and it is wired to the PAC module, but they state to get the Steering Control features to work I am supposed to tie into this green./black wire.
The problem is, the picture they provide is vague. After 2 calls to Crutchfields, this picture is the only one they had and could provide no additional help. Basing the picture to what I see, Im thinking they are showing the Silverados under-dash.

I am going to assume that regardless of bose or non-bose, you would still pick up the data wire in the same location.....but I know what happens when you assume. =)

Here is the thread I made about this, if anyone can shed any light on this for me.

http://coloradofans.com/forums/201-...o-lighting/273153-swc-data-wire-location.html
 
#102 ·
Morbius, looking at the pin outs on the Bose Amp Speaker outs, I need to confirm something, from looking at that pic, it appears to me the "negative outs are the striped wires and the positives are the solid, this is reverse of every other manufacture on the planet, am I right, solids are "positive"? My LF was green and green with green stripe at least "at the speaker". While the speaker is not marked, I made an assumption, on my new Rockford Fosgate 6x9s the positive is on the left, so I assumed (ut oh) the same for the bose, which means the positive would be green/green stripe. What are your thoughts?
 
#103 ·
Solid colored wires are positive, as well as the fatter spades on speaker terminals. If you find multi-colored wires, it's negative.

You can always test the speaker for +/- connections by using a D-cell battery. Just connect wires to bat and touch to speaker terminals, if speaker pops 'up/out' you have correct polarity.....Google this if I'm being confusing....

Good luck man! We're about to hit the road to watch the Patriots beat the Broncos!!!:wink2:
 
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#104 · (Edited)
Yeah I figured it out, I actually went to the dealer that I bought (two, count them, two 2016 GMC Canyons, one for me and one for my wife). Anyway I got a wiring schematic from them. Once I have completed my install I will post it (curious to find out if it is the same as a 2015 Canyon). So at this point, have my (4) new speakers all installed, working as expected. You and everyone here was right (I was hoping for a miracle, front door speakers from the Bose Amp are lows only, but I will fix this soon as I get my Amp installed, I plan on drawing my inputs to the front door speakers probably from the dash speakers, still thinking about my options here. Now I am trying to figure out how to remove the glove box, I started just unscrewing screws but thought better of it and have stopped and will now look for more precise details. BTW, I bet on New England for the win this week, if things start going bad I am expecting you to suit up :), good luck man.
 
#110 ·
Has anyone found the alternator's amperage output on the Canyon? Also anyone ever do a big 3 upgrade? I was reading my amplifier manual I just found, and it suggested an additional ground wire from the battery to chasis. A big 3 is adding an additional 4 gauge or lower wire from the battery to alternator, alternator to original ground location and battery to original ground location...for those that did not know.

I did not do that in my last car and every light would dim when the bass hit. It had 2 x 40 amp fuses, and I would like to add another for the door speakers which is rated at 50 amps.
 
#112 ·
SquiggyFreud, if you have draw problems add a extra battery and call it good man. I was going to add a capacitor and my boys (CJSounds - Houston) told me they had quit installing capacitors and install an batteries exclusively to address this problem. Just my 2c.
 
#113 ·
Truck_Norris is correct. In my 2016 GMC Canyon SLT Crew, I just installed Rockford Fosgate P1694s in my front door speakers using adapter Metra 82-3004 and Rockford Fosgate P1675s in my back doors using adapter Metra 82-3005.
Ø Rockford Fosgate Punch P1694 6-Inch x 9-Inch Full Range Coaxial Speakers
Ø Rockford Fosgate P1675 Punch 6.75-Inch 3-Way Coaxial Full-Range Speaker
Ø Metra 82-3004 2014 6X9-Inch Speaker Adapter for Select GM Trucks (Black)
Ø Metra 82-3005 6-Inch to 6-3/4-Inch Speaker Adapter for GM Trucks 2014-Up (Black)
 
#114 · (Edited)
OK, my journey, I have a 2016 GMC Canyon Crew SLT with the upgraded Bose system. For whatever reason at 54 years old I wanted to revert to my teenage years and thump....again. So away I went on this very long, complex journey. First off I searched everywhere for information on the factory Bose System/Amp/Speakers, etc., w[FONT=&quot]hat are the outputs of the Bose, what ohm, what wattage, wiring schematic maybe, I found nothing (GM, Google, Dealer 1,2,3, Stereo Shops, Chilton’s, I got zip)[FONT=&quot]. Not until I landed here did I start to put the pieces [FONT=&quot]of the puzzle to[FONT=&quot]gether. I would be remiss if I did not call out Truck_Norris, m0rhg, landpilot, and most [FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]importantly[/FONT] [FONT=&quot]Morbius for his patience with me.

[FONT=&quot]Here is what I installed:
[/FONT][/FONT][/FONT][/FONT][/FONT][/FONT][/FONT]
Ø JL Audio JX400/4D 4-channel car amplifier - 70 watts RMS x 4
Ø Rockford Fosgate RFK4 4 AWG Power Only Amplifier Install Kit
Ø Metra 82-3004 2014 6X9-Inch Speaker Adapter for Select GM Trucks (Black)
Ø Metra 82-3005 6-Inch to 6-3/4-Inch Speaker Adapter for GM Trucks 2014-Up (Black)
Ø Cadence 14G152M-Blu/Sil 14 Gauge 40 Foot Blue/Silver Speaker Wire Spool Designed for Show Car Performance *Cut from a 500 foot spool*
Ø DEI 050341 Boom Mat 6.75" Round Slim Speaker Baffle - Pack of 2
Ø DEI 050381 Boom Mat 6"x9" Oval Slim Speaker Baffle - Pack of 2
Ø Rockford Fosgate Punch P1694 6-Inch x 9-Inch Full Range Coaxial Speakers
Ø Rockford Fosgate P1675 Punch 6.75-Inch 3-Way Coaxial Full-Range Speaker
Ø Rockford RFBLD Balanced Line Driver [ame]http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-RFBLD-Balanced-Line-Driver/dp/B001P86SJ8/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1449410205&sr=1-1&keywords=RF-BLD[/ame]


** I had already installed a Rockford Fosgate 300watt 10" powered sub
> http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P300-10-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B007AQ2W2Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449414067&sr=8-1&keywords=Rockford+Fosgate+10%22+300watt+powered+sub

One thing that concerned me was whether the wiring harness on the bose amp was the same on a 2015 as a 2016, they are, at least the green plug (see attachment) and the first post on this thread by Truck_Norris.


So for those that say you can not vastly bump up the sound on a factory head/Bose AMP combo, they are very wrong. I could not be more pleased. All the information you need is in here, removing the door panels, the Bose AMP outputs, etc. Good luck to anybody that follows our path :)

I liked this truck so much, I bought my wife one to :)
 

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#115 · (Edited)
OK, my journey, I have a 2016 GMC Canyon Crew SLT with the upgraded Bose system. For whatever reason at 54 years old I wanted to revert to my teenage years and thump....again. So away I went on this very long, complex journey. First off I searched everywhere for information on the factory Bose System/Amp/Speakers, etc., w[FONT=&quot]hat are the outputs of the Bose, what ohm, what wattage, wiring schematic maybe, I found nothing (GM, Google, Dealer 1,2,3, Stereo Shops, Chilton’s, I got zip)[FONT=&quot]. Not until I landed here did I start to put the pieces [FONT=&quot]of the puzzle to[FONT=&quot]gether. I would be remiss if I did not call out Truck_Norris, m0rhg, landpilot, and most [FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]importantly[/FONT] [FONT=&quot]Morbius for his patience with me.

[FONT=&quot]Here is what I installed:
[/FONT][/FONT][/FONT][/FONT][/FONT][/FONT][/FONT]
Ø JL Audio JX400/4D 4-channel car amplifier - 70 watts RMS x 4
Ø Rockford Fosgate RFK4 4 AWG Power Only Amplifier Install Kit
Ø Metra 82-3004 2014 6X9-Inch Speaker Adapter for Select GM Trucks (Black)
Ø Metra 82-3005 6-Inch to 6-3/4-Inch Speaker Adapter for GM Trucks 2014-Up (Black)
Ø Cadence 14G152M-Blu/Sil 14 Gauge 40 Foot Blue/Silver Speaker Wire Spool Designed for Show Car Performance *Cut from a 500 foot spool*
Ø DEI 050341 Boom Mat 6.75" Round Slim Speaker Baffle - Pack of 2
Ø DEI 050381 Boom Mat 6"x9" Oval Slim Speaker Baffle - Pack of 2
Ø Rockford Fosgate Punch P1694 6-Inch x 9-Inch Full Range Coaxial Speakers
Ø Rockford Fosgate P1675 Punch 6.75-Inch 3-Way Coaxial Full-Range Speaker
Ø Rockford RFBLD Balanced Line Driver http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-RFBL...ie=UTF8&qid=1449410205&sr=1-1&keywords=RF-BLD


** I had already installed a Rockford Fosgate 300watt 10" powered sub
> http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P300-10-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B007AQ2W2Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449414067&sr=8-1&keywords=Rockford+Fosgate+10%22+300watt+powered+sub

One thing that concerned me was whether the wiring harness on the bose amp was the same on a 2015 as a 2016, they are, at least the green plug (see attachment) and the first post on this thread by Truck_Norris.


So for those that say you can not vastly bump up the sound on a factory head/Bose AMP combo, they are very wrong. I could not be more pleased. All the information you need is in here, removing the door panels, the Bose AMP outputs, etc. Good luck to anybody that follows our path :)

I liked this truck so much, I bought my wife one to :)
Sweet brother!!! And yes you are correct, you can keep the BOSE HU and amp and make it sound vastly better.....The question is, Why didn't BOSE do this in the first place?

....hey, I'm turning 50 next week and also felt the urge to pump up the volume...probably goes back to high school basement days listening to my Marantz turntable plugged into the Pioneer SX-1250 receiver pushing on the 220W Sansui speakers!
 
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