How To: DRL Delete (2nd Gen) - Page 2 - Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon
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post #21 of 55 (permalink) Old 06-11-2016, 10:15 PM
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If anybody had a 1st gen, what you mentioned above is the same as it used to work.
I turn my auto feature off 99.2% of the time. 0.6% percent of the time I forget and 0.2% of the time I don't remember if I did or not -therefore I have to carry out that procedure to 'make sure they are off'.
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post #22 of 55 (permalink) Old 06-11-2016, 10:21 PM Thread Starter
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0.2% of the time I don't remember if I did or not -therefore I have to carry out that procedure to 'make sure they are off'.
One of the main reasons I wanted to do this project. Riding down the road I'd always forget if I cut them off or not and didn't wanna accidentally flash someone in case I did already cut them off. Really aggravating. Now I'll know because of where the switch sits. Which is how it should've been made in the first place.

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post #23 of 55 (permalink) Old 06-11-2016, 11:02 PM
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Thank You for your contribution!
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post #24 of 55 (permalink) Old 06-12-2016, 01:32 AM
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Nope no alert. One of the first things I checked.

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Perfect, although I would still probably do it even if it did, lol

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Originally Posted by bigboi98 View Post
Just a note, if the truck is started with the switch in the off position, in order to to get the auto function to activate you must turn the dial to the next notch after auto then back to auto. The system thinks you've physically turned the lights off so you must turn an actual light on to activate the auto system. It seems complicated but I suck at explaining things.

So when the truck is started with the switch off, just remember that you have to physically turn the lights on before returning the dial to "auto" if it rains, driving through a tunnel, etc.

Still a trade off I'll take any day over turning the knob every time.

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So wait let my type up what I think switch behavior will be if I do this. Please correct whatever needs correcting but I'm still a mostly just confused on how the Auto position behavior has changed.


After modifying and switch left in Off position when truck is turned off:
-Key in ON position, light switch still Off: All off, no DIC alert.
-Key in ON position, light switch switched to Auto: ??? DRL come on? Nothing changes from above? Is there a DIC alert?
-Key in ON position, light switch switched to Park: Parking lights on, DRL on???, DIC message?
-Key in ON position, light switch switched to Lights: Parking lights on, Headlights on, DIC message?
-Key in ON position, light switch switched from Lights to Park: Park lights on, Headlights out, DRL back on??, DIC message?
Key in ON position, light switch switched from Park to Auto: Everything behaves like normal OEM.


I'm thinking that once this is done this will really be ideal. Leave switch in Off, turn through Auto and Park to turn on lights....to operate lights like a traditional vehicle save for having to pass through the extra Auto position. It sounds like when going ON the headlights will not flicker on the off when passing through Auto to Park and then the normal ON position but since the lights were activated they will flicker when turning off due to passing through the Auto position as it was "activated" by having the Park and/or Headlights actually on.


Did any of that make sense, lol
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post #25 of 55 (permalink) Old 06-12-2016, 06:25 AM Thread Starter
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Now I'm confused lol

If you were to go to your truck now with the factory switch and start the truck. Leave the switch on "auto" position just like it would be before the modification. Just like normal. Now turn the switch off, letting the switch go back to auto. At this point, this is how it will start every time now. Lights off. Now you'll have to turn the switch to parking light then back to auto to activate the auto system since the truck thinks you turned the system off when you started the truck.

If someone that has done this could chime in. I'm a good talker, just not a good typer when explaining.

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Last edited by bigboi98; 06-12-2016 at 06:51 AM.
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post #26 of 55 (permalink) Old 06-12-2016, 09:56 AM
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Now I'm confused lol

If you were to go to your truck now with the factory switch and start the truck. Leave the switch on "auto" position just like it would be before the modification. Just like normal. Now turn the switch off, letting the switch go back to auto. At this point, this is how it will start every time now. Lights off. Now you'll have to turn the switch to parking light then back to auto to activate the auto system since the truck thinks you turned the system off when you started the truck.

If someone that has done this could chime in. I'm a good talker, just not a good typer when explaining.

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I hear what your saying, because the BCM thinks that the first switch back to the Auto position from Off is actually "normal" operation for the mechanism it ignores that first request to run the lights on Auto.

So then all the rest of the DIC messages alert as normal?
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post #27 of 55 (permalink) Old 06-12-2016, 10:04 AM Thread Starter
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I hear what your saying, because the BCM thinks that the first switch back to the Auto position from Off is actually "normal" operation for the mechanism it ignores that first request to run the lights on Auto.

So then all the rest of the DIC messages alert as normal?
Exactly.

And yes. As soon as you have it back in auto mode, the alerts work as usual letting you know when auto is turned off and on.

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post #28 of 55 (permalink) Old 06-15-2016, 04:23 PM
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Since the days of pulling a DRL fuse are gone, I had to get a little inventive. Ordered a new headlight switch from GMPartsDirect for $26 to play with. The goal was to be able to manipulate the switch so it could stay in the "off" position rather than always springing back to "auto" so I could leave it "off" and not have to turn it every time I got in the truck.
Thanks for this, I too need to do this mod since I have HID low beams and dont want to run it everytime. Been constantly turning it off everytime I start my truck.

So if I get this right, I really don't need to buy a spare headlight switch right? I just need to remove that spring so it doesn't keep going back and rest on AUTO?

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post #29 of 55 (permalink) Old 06-15-2016, 04:29 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for this, I too need to do this mod since I have HID low beams and dont want to run it everytime. Been constantly turning it off everytime I start my truck.

So if I get this right, I really don't need to buy a spare headlight switch right? I just need to remove that spring so it doesn't keep going back and rest on AUTO?
Exactly. I just bought the spare because I didn't want to unintentionally break my primary one during experimentation and be screwed.

But the process is super simple. Only chance you have of breaking anything would be opening the housing. Just be forceful, yet careful.

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post #30 of 55 (permalink) Old 06-18-2016, 11:44 AM
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I'm having trouble getting the switch assembly to come out. You can see that on the left side I've got the locking tabs released but on the right side of the assembly it's still held in there tight. Shouldn't the selector knob and the whole assembly just slide straight back at this point? What is the secret sauce for getting this thing out?


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post #31 of 55 (permalink) Old 06-18-2016, 08:19 PM
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I'm having trouble getting the switch assembly to come out. You can see that on the left side I've got the locking tabs released but on the right side of the assembly it's still held in there tight. Shouldn't the selector knob and the whole assembly just slide straight back at this point? What is the secret sauce for getting this thing out?

Did this today too and got stuck just as you are.

Fortunately that is about enough to still get the switch backing plate off and pull the spring out. See if you can just get a small screwdriver into the switch back and pull it off like I did you'll see the spring on the inboard top corner and you can just pull it out with needle nose pliers and put everything back
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post #32 of 55 (permalink) Old 06-18-2016, 11:03 PM Thread Starter
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I'm having trouble getting the switch assembly to come out. You can see that on the left side I've got the locking tabs released but on the right side of the assembly it's still held in there tight. Shouldn't the selector knob and the whole assembly just slide straight back at this point? What is the secret sauce for getting this thing out?

That it interesting. Mine doesn't have the second knob to get in the way of the right side tab. You'll have to either do like the other guy says or pioneer a way to get it out.

Let me know what you do and I'll edit the original post with info for the 4wd guys

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post #33 of 55 (permalink) Old 06-19-2016, 06:51 PM
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Got this figured out today. I first tried just getting the left side retaining clip free and then try to release the four tabs holding the switch assembly undone. I broke two of them. Out of frustration I took the whole kick panel down and undid the hood release (very easy) so I could get a better look and discovered that there IS another tab between the switch assembly on the right side and the housing that holds it. The tab is hidden down there and doesn't have a spring clip associated with it. I stuck a small screw driver down in there and deformed the housing wall enough to be able to pull up on the right side of the assembly and THEN released the left side spring clip. Popped right out after that...!

Here is the area the hidden tab is while the assembly is in the housing. It's down in there but the arrow points to the area where you need to pry a little bit.
[URL=http://s1092.photobucket.com/user/Bumble-Z/media/2016-06-19%2008.16.20.jpg.html][/URL

This photo shows the area of the empty housing where the tab on the assembly nests into it...




This shot shows the actual tab on the right side of the assembly after removing it...



After removing the spring, I had to clamp the assembly back together and put a couple of drops of Gorilla glue to tack it together where I broke the two tabs. If you get the right side housing tab released when you remove this you shouldn't have the damage that I did...
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post #34 of 55 (permalink) Old 06-19-2016, 06:54 PM
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Like the sticker says, "Assembled in Mexico". I need a new label that says "Damaged in the USA". If I'd had a Mexican handy, this might have gone smoother.....:)

2016 Canyon SLE diesel, Brownstone Metallic, Towing Package, etc.

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Factory GMC front Mud Flaps
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post #35 of 55 (permalink) Old 06-19-2016, 09:37 PM
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post #36 of 55 (permalink) Old 06-20-2016, 08:11 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BumbleZ View Post
Got this figured out today. I first tried just getting the left side retaining clip free and then try to release the four tabs holding the switch assembly undone. I broke two of them. Out of frustration I took the whole kick panel down and undid the hood release (very easy) so I could get a better look and discovered that there IS another tab between the switch assembly on the right side and the housing that holds it. The tab is hidden down there and doesn't have a spring clip associated with it. I stuck a small screw driver down in there and deformed the housing wall enough to be able to pull up on the right side of the assembly and THEN released the left side spring clip. Popped right out after that...!

Here is the area the hidden tab is while the assembly is in the housing. It's down in there but the arrow points to the area where you need to pry a little bit.
[URL=http://s1092.photobucket.com/user/Bumble-Z/media/2016-06-19%2008.16.20.jpg.html][/URL

This photo shows the area of the empty housing where the tab on the assembly nests into it...




This shot shows the actual tab on the right side of the assembly after removing it...



After removing the spring, I had to clamp the assembly back together and put a couple of drops of Gorilla glue to tack it together where I broke the two tabs. If you get the right side housing tab released when you remove this you shouldn't have the damage that I did...
Sorry to hear about the troubles you had. If you want, you can have my spare switch I ordered. Just cover shipping. It's already modified and has the factory fog light switch.

Sent from my SM-G920V
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post #37 of 55 (permalink) Old 06-23-2016, 03:51 PM
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just did this mod yesterday and so glad I won't need to keep turning off my HIDs each time I start my car. HIDs run at full brightness even at DRL mode so I had to constantly turn it off each time. Thanks for putting together instructions, definitely helped a lot. THUMBS UP!!!
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post #38 of 55 (permalink) Old 06-28-2016, 02:45 PM
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I have a spare switch too if someone needs it. Spring mod has been performed and switch is for NON fog light vehicle.
Just PM me your address and I'll mail it, reimbursed shipping is all I want in return.
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post #39 of 55 (permalink) Old 07-01-2016, 12:24 AM
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But the taillights are still on correct? When you turn the switch on the OEM version, when you disable the auto lights it fires up the taillights so is it the same?
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post #40 of 55 (permalink) Old 07-01-2016, 12:34 AM
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But the taillights are still on correct? When you turn the switch on the OEM version, when you disable the auto lights it fires up the taillights so is it the same?
Off is off man. When you turn the knob to off no lights are on. The only way the taillights would be on (stock or modified switch) is if you turned the knob to park or headlights.

All functions operate the same, except now you can always stay in the off position.
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