Hyper Flashing w/ LED's - Page 2 - Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon
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post #21 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-24-2016, 09:07 PM
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I haven't seen this asked before but I may be wrong. I have had my LED's in for close to a year with the resistors installed. Everything has been working fine until about a month ago. Only when I put on the left turn signal after three normal blinks and then it goes into hyperflash. The DIC shows the message that left rear turn signal is out. All are working the way they are supposed to but hyperflashing. The other strange part is that it is intermittent. I have checked the connections and all are tight and making solid contact. I have even changed the resistors to new ones and it makes no change. I might add that the resistors I took off were okay and read the proper resistance. This is very strange to me and is driving me crazy. I am going to push hard the next time I have it in for service to have the hyperflash turned off but until then I would like to figure out what is causing this. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!!!!

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post #22 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-24-2016, 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Baybilly View Post
I haven't seen this asked before but I may be wrong. I have had my LED's in for close to a year with the resistors installed. Everything has been working fine until about a month ago. Only when I put on the left turn signal after three normal blinks and then it goes into hyperflash. The DIC shows the message that left rear turn signal is out. All are working the way they are supposed to but hyperflashing. The other strange part is that it is intermittent. I have checked the connections and all are tight and making solid contact. I have even changed the resistors to new ones and it makes no change. I might add that the resistors I took off were okay and read the proper resistance. This is very strange to me and is driving me crazy. I am going to push hard the next time I have it in for service to have the hyperflash turned off but until then I would like to figure out what is causing this. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!!!!
My best guess would be that you had a resistor fail on you. I guess the cheap ones aren't known to last very long.

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post #23 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-25-2016, 09:46 AM
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My best guess would be that you had a resistor fail on you. I guess the cheap ones aren't known to last very long.
That was my first thought but the originals were Diode Dynamics and I replaced them with with new ones from another company that I don't remember but they all read the same resistance and checked out fine. It does the same on either set. Some days it will work fine and the next day maybe after the third or fourth left turn it will do it's three blinks and go into Hyperflash. May go two more turns before it does it again or it may continue through the day. It is very strange.

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post #24 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-28-2016, 07:39 PM
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Some days it will work fine and the next day maybe after the third or fourth left turn it will do it's three blinks and go into Hyperflash. May go two more turns before it does it again or it may continue through the day. It is very strange.
I had a turn signal doing the same thing. It was a bad connection at the tap. I fixed it by buying a pack of quick splices and reinstalling the resister elsewhere in the line. Then coated the bad spot with liquid electrical tape to seal it up again and good as new.

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post #25 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-30-2016, 05:23 PM
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I had a turn signal doing the same thing. It was a bad connection at the tap. I fixed it by buying a pack of quick splices and reinstalling the resister elsewhere in the line. Then coated the bad spot with liquid electrical tape to seal it up again and good as new.
I tried that my next step is to solder a lead off of each wire and use a different type of connection to attach the resistor. It just seems odd that it is always after the third flash when it goes into hyperflash never instantly and only on the left side. Going in for another oil change soon and the heater valve recall so I am going to hit them up again to take the hyperflash/lamp out option out of the program. We will see and I will let all know if it can be done.
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post #26 of 35 (permalink) Old 12-01-2016, 04:12 PM
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Honestly the only full proof way of connecting anything is with solder. Taps, butt splices and all that nonsense can give you issues down the road. When I do use butt splices I heat shrink the heck out of the connections to hold the wires tight into the splice.

When I did resistors on my Wife's Camaro I used a thermal epoxy to fix them to the body to aid in heat dissipation and soldered/heatshrunk all the connections.

For my truck I think I will give the aftermarket tails a shot. I can't tell whether I like them or not from the pics I've seen. At least they are full LED and include resistor boxes.

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post #27 of 35 (permalink) Old 12-01-2016, 07:53 PM
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quick question on this subject. Are there any LED bulbs that work without resistors needing to be added to prevent hyper flash and errors on the DIC? Like a built in resistor?

Ive never messed with them but I'm guessing they make so much heat you couldn't have a built in resistor?

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post #28 of 35 (permalink) Old 12-02-2016, 08:55 AM
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BayBilly,

I believe that the Body Control Module controls the flash. After 3 'blinks", it measures the low resistance and goes into the hyperflash mode. I was not able to install my resistors for a week after I plugged the LED bulbs in. They hyperflashed after 3 normal blinks.
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post #29 of 35 (permalink) Old 12-02-2016, 10:27 AM
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quick question on this subject. Are there any LED bulbs that work without resistors needing to be added to prevent hyper flash and errors on the DIC? Like a built in resistor?

Ive never messed with them but I'm guessing they make so much heat you couldn't have a built in resistor?
Some LED's claim to have built in resistors but I have yet to see them. I'd be interested in them as well before I give the aftermarket tails a shot.

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post #30 of 35 (permalink) Old 12-02-2016, 03:05 PM
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Some LED's claim to have built in resistors but I have yet to see them. I'd be interested in them as well before I give the aftermarket tails a shot.


Yes, I don't want to hack up my wiring over some stupid bulbs. It seams these car makers could design into their BCM to see an "open" circuit. Not a freaking 100 watt draw. That way led makers could put a small resistor inside the bulb. AND that would be less draw on the system thus better mpg . But whatever ....heh


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post #31 of 35 (permalink) Old 12-02-2016, 03:40 PM
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Yes, I don't want to hack up my wiring over some stupid bulbs. It seams these car makers could design into their BCM to see an "open" circuit. Not a freaking 100 watt draw. That way led makers could put a small resistor inside the bulb. AND that would be less draw on the system thus better mpg . But whatever ....heh


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I completely agree, installing in line resistors I find highly annoying because I have to solder and heatshrink everything due to my undiagnosed OCD lol.

I would rather pay more money for higher quality LED bulbs with resistors build in. Although I guess heat dissipation could possibly be an issue.
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post #32 of 35 (permalink) Old 12-04-2016, 08:34 PM
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BayBilly,

I believe that the Body Control Module controls the flash. After 3 'blinks", it measures the low resistance and goes into the hyperflash mode. I was not able to install my resistors for a week after I plugged the LED bulbs in. They hyperflashed after 3 normal blinks.
Thanks but mine is intermittent. Very strange to me and it is only on the left side. Hopefully next weekend I will have some time to do my solder project and that will fix it.
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Some LED's claim to have built in resistors but I have yet to see them. I'd be interested in them as well before I give the aftermarket tails a shot.

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post #33 of 35 (permalink) Old 12-04-2016, 10:24 PM
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The hyper flash is a "feature" designed into the BCM software to tell you that you (the driver) that you have a bulb not working. I do not know ifhyper flash is a federal requirement on not. This feature has been around for years. Long before BCMs were used for turn signals the electric-mechanical flasher did the same thing. With those you simply changed to a variable load flasher.

There is a software "fix" for the hyper flash problem which cripples the "feature". GM uses that "fix" when a truck is specified to be sold without a bed and will be used with an aftermarket bed or box. I have no idea how you can get GM to install that fix in your BCM. Maybe one of the aftermarket "tuners" could do it for you. I am sure it would be a simple fix but I do not have access to the BCM source code to figure it out.

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post #34 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-11-2017, 12:46 AM
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That appears to be a common response from GM dealers, either they do not know how to turn it off or they will not turn it off. My dealer did not have any problem, so if you happen to live in Orlando e-mail me and I will tell you where to get it done. I'm not willing to post it here because I don't want the dealer to get any negative feedback if they are not supposed to be doing it for customers according to GM policy or whatever.
Sorry to bring an old thread back to life but I'm assuming you didn't have any issues with the backup camera when they changed the BCM setting to cab chassis?

Also, do regular bulbs still work when the setting is changed? Did you happen to see if there was away they could reassign the DRL function to the front turn signals?

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post #35 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-12-2017, 09:01 AM
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Sorry,
I did not witness what actions wee taken nor would I likely understand it. The person I knew who worked there at the dealership has now retired and so I cannot ask him since I don't have his phone number. I think it is a simple matter of disabling an electronic switch in the programming, but the technician has to get some kind of authorization number or they cannot change the settings. GM seems very reluctant to allow any changes to their vehicle computers, I think it might be a liability issue.
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