Hyper Flashing w/ LED's - Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon
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post #1 of 35 (permalink) Old 09-07-2016, 09:04 AM Thread Starter
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Hyper Flashing w/ LED's

I installed LED's bulbs in my tail lights and switch backs in the front turn signals on my 2015 Colorado Z71 last night. Now the dreaded "hyper flashing" to deal with. Wish I would have done a bit more research beforehand and I probably wouldn't have gone the LED bulb replacement route. After reading several posts, I understand that I can install a 6 ohm 50 watt load resistor at each bulb, but getting to the wires in the front turn signals is a PITA. Is there a problem with just letting the hyper flashing continue without installing the load resistors? Is it illegal? Will it affect the life of the LED bulbs?
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post #2 of 35 (permalink) Old 09-07-2016, 09:52 AM
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Don't you also get an error message in your Driver Information Center? I do on my 2016 and that would drive me crazy to live with all the time. Sorry I'm not sure if its detrimental.
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post #3 of 35 (permalink) Old 09-07-2016, 10:09 AM
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have you looked into installing a LED specific turn signal flasher:

https://www.superbrightleds.com/blog...rflashing/275/

Always remember to pillage before you burn.
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post #4 of 35 (permalink) Old 09-07-2016, 10:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psango View Post
have you looked into installing a LED specific turn signal flasher:

https://www.superbrightleds.com/blog...rflashing/275/
+1. This is by far the easiest solution.

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post #5 of 35 (permalink) Old 09-07-2016, 11:11 AM
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Google for DiodeDynamics they have the resistiors and they are easy to install. The hardest one by the driverside because of the Washer jug, but is not imposible.
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post #6 of 35 (permalink) Old 09-07-2016, 02:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psango View Post
have you looked into installing a LED specific turn signal flasher:

https://www.superbrightleds.com/blog...rflashing/275/

On our trucks the flash is controlled by the BCM. There is no flasher that can be replaced like older vehicles so that isnt an option.
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post #7 of 35 (permalink) Old 09-07-2016, 02:52 PM
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You would need 6 resistors for your setup, 2 for each tail light (so 4 total for the rear) and 1 for each front turn signal (so 2 total for the front)

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post #8 of 35 (permalink) Old 09-07-2016, 03:20 PM
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Amazon has 4-packs of load resistors for $7.99, just ordered mine today: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This thread seems to cover all LED bulb change out's pretty well: Blue's light thread
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post #9 of 35 (permalink) Old 09-07-2016, 05:40 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Krystof View Post
Don't you also get an error message in your Driver Information Center? I do on my 2016 and that would drive me crazy to live with all the time. Sorry I'm not sure if its detrimental.
Yeah, I'm way too OCD for that. Guess I'll be installing resistors soon. For those who have installed them already, can you confirm which wires you splice in to? I've read on the rear's it's the Gray and Black wires. On the front turn signals it's the Yellow and closest Black wire to it. Would like some confirmation beforehand though. Also, where/how did you mount the resistor itself? It gets hot so I assume it'll have to be mounted to something metal?
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post #10 of 35 (permalink) Old 09-07-2016, 06:57 PM
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For my front switchbacks I bought these resistors vs the gold ones. They stay way cooler. I ran a zip tie through the holes on the end and have them dangling away from any wires. No issues for the past year.

https://www.theretrofitsource.com/mo...l#.V9Ca-q13E3g


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post #11 of 35 (permalink) Old 09-08-2016, 05:42 PM Thread Starter
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Went ahead and installed the load resistors today. Not as difficult as I thought it would be. Now no more hyper flashing.....:)
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post #12 of 35 (permalink) Old 09-09-2016, 05:13 PM
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After reading the datasheet for a common 50 watt resistor and realizing without a heatsink they're closer to 20 watt rated I did some tests on my 2016 colorado to reduce the heat and ended up with an 8 ohm and a 10 ohm in parallel for each side in the back and a single 10 ohm on each in the front. A 12 almost worked on the front but one side had an intermittent fault with it.
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post #13 of 35 (permalink) Old 09-15-2016, 09:06 PM
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I do not like to modify my factory wiring if it is not necessary and for disabling the hyperflashing feature, a reprogram of the BCM is all that is required. Since both the Canyon and Colorado are available in a cab chassis configuration from GM for custom aftermarket vehicles, it was necessary for GM to provide an avenue for custom bed builders to install LED lights without modifying the factory wiring. If you have seen any Knapheide workbed (https://www.knapheide.com/service-bodies/ec-series-p4) Colorados with LED taillights you will know what I mean. If you have a good local dealer or independent service center with the capability, just have the hyperflash/lamp out feature disabled in the BCM module programming. This will of course necessitate that you check your own turn signal lamps periodically to ensure they are working, but hey, long life is one reason to shift to LED's in the first place, right?
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post #14 of 35 (permalink) Old 09-16-2016, 10:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big_Bubba View Post
I do not like to modify my factory wiring if it is not necessary and for disabling the hyperflashing feature, a reprogram of the BCM is all that is required. Since both the Canyon and Colorado are available in a cab chassis configuration from GM for custom aftermarket vehicles, it was necessary for GM to provide an avenue for custom bed builders to install LED lights without modifying the factory wiring. If you have seen any Knapheide workbed (https://www.knapheide.com/service-bodies/ec-series-p4) Colorados with LED taillights you will know what I mean. If you have a good local dealer or independent service center with the capability, just have the hyperflash/lamp out feature disabled in the BCM module programming. This will of course necessitate that you check your own turn signal lamps periodically to ensure they are working, but hey, long life is one reason to shift to LED's in the first place, right?
Happened to read this as I was waiting for my dealership to open this morning. So I asked for them to do that, even showed them the thread about it. They were aware of it due to the install of the aftermarket beds and said they had to do it through GM tech. I told them no problem and I would pay a fee if they would do it. They tried and came back to me with that GM Tech could not turn it off as long as I still had the factory bed. Did not make sense to me but I was not able to get it done. I was so looking forward to getting rid of the resistors this weekend!

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post #15 of 35 (permalink) Old 09-17-2016, 01:09 PM
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That appears to be a common response from GM dealers, either they do not know how to turn it off or they will not turn it off. My dealer did not have any problem, so if you happen to live in Orlando e-mail me and I will tell you where to get it done. I'm not willing to post it here because I don't want the dealer to get any negative feedback if they are not supposed to be doing it for customers according to GM policy or whatever.
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post #16 of 35 (permalink) Old 09-17-2016, 11:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big_Bubba View Post
That appears to be a common response from GM dealers, either they do not know how to turn it off or they will not turn it off. My dealer did not have any problem, so if you happen to live in Orlando e-mail me and I will tell you where to get it done. I'm not willing to post it here because I don't want the dealer to get any negative feedback if they are not supposed to be doing it for customers according to GM policy or whatever.
Thanks Big Bubba! I am in Maryland but if I ever get down in Orlando I might just take you up on the offer. I am going to give it another go next time in. The service writer I usually deal with was off. He may have a little more pull.

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post #17 of 35 (permalink) Old 09-18-2016, 03:00 AM
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It would seem to me that it would not take much to build an inline adapter to plug in under the bed like trailer wiring harness does. In that adapter install a couple of 6 to 12 ohm 10 to 20 watt resistors to ground and be done with it. These things only run 50% duty cycle so you would not have to go to heavy on the wattage. The BCM only controls the flashing element of each bulb, so only 2 resistors would be required in the rear plus and one male and one female plug to build the adapter.

A similar arrangement could be done for the front.

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post #18 of 35 (permalink) Old 09-18-2016, 06:37 PM
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The BCM only controls the flashing element of each bulb, so only 2 resistors would be required in the rear plus and one male and one female plug to build the adapter.
The only risk is that the dissipation in the rear for a single resistor(assuming 4 ohms works) would be right about 50W. And for the rear you have to assume a 100% duty cycle(stuck in traffic) since the brake lights are on the same element. This means you need a seriously overrated resistor or a proper heatsink(the specs for the required heatsinks are pretty large for the 50W to actually run at 50W) I was going to try a single resistor until I hooked up a 4 ohm resistor to a auto-equivalent power supply and it started smoking after a few minutes when not on a heatsink.

One thing I've considered was to try and build a circuit which puts the resistor in for a brief period and then takes it back out, assuming the BCM only does sensing when flashing and not when the brake lights are on, but that's getting to a level of overkill.
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post #19 of 35 (permalink) Old 09-19-2016, 03:57 AM
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I do not know what version Colorado we are talking about here but on a first generation, the Brake lights are the bright filament of a different bulb than the brake lights. That filament draws around 25 watts so the resistor to duplicate it needs to be around 6 or 7 ohms. I'll bet you could get by with 10 ohms and still keep the BCM happy. I again say that it is 50% duty cycle when flashing and nothing when not flashing even when the brakes are on.

It looks like you could get by with about a 15 watt resistor. One resistor could work for both rear or both fronts if you threw in a couple of 5 amp diodes (one to each light). I do not think that would be very advantageous. Probably two resistors is better.

http://www.naskie18.com/colorado/sch...20Part%201.pdf

http://www.naskie18.com/colorado/sch...20Part%202.pdf

I have never seen a wiring diagram for a 2nd Gen Colorado.

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post #20 of 35 (permalink) Old 09-19-2016, 03:15 PM
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The 2nd gen rear is 2 dual filament bulbs in parallel on each side. The dim filament for the markers and the bright for turn/brake. Testing shows a required resistance of 3-4.5 ohms to emulate both bulbs and keep the BCM happy. (Front's are fine with 10 since they're a single bulb, 12 caused intermittent issues). To spread the load I'm currently running and 8 and a 10 in parallel on each side. The 2nd gen Wiring Diagram is a sticky on the first post of this subforum.
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