Tail Light / Stop Lamp Fuse? - Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon
 
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-09-2017, 06:47 AM Thread Starter
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Tail Light / Stop Lamp Fuse?

Hello All


Does anybody know where the fuse is for the tail lights? I lost both tail lights and turn signals on my 2015 Canyon.

Or may be it is a relay? Any help is appreciated.

Thanks,
Akko

Last edited by akkoacanyon; 01-09-2017 at 08:35 AM.
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-09-2017, 12:29 PM
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have you checked your fuse box on the passenger side foot well behind the kick panel? When I was installing my HID harness I blew a fuse and had the hardest time finding which one it was... it is not labeled easy to figure out, but I do not remember off hand what it was. I want to guess and say "bus"

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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-09-2017, 01:07 PM Thread Starter
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Hello


Thanks for the information, I've already checked F36 fuse and K11 relay for (CHMSL) under the hood they were fine.


Next I will look in the passenger side fuse box, per your suggestion, hopefully it is one of those, otherwise it is a trip to the dealer.
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-09-2017, 01:29 PM
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Looking at Owner's manual, doesn't look like there are any fuses in the kick panel fuse block that should apply to this failure. However, I would think K14 is the more likely culprit.

In looking at the owner's manual, it appears that the only non-critical relay that could be swapped out to test function may be K6, for the cargo lamp. All other relays appear to be a different size when looking at the diagram in the owner's manual.

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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-09-2017, 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by akkoacanyon View Post
Hello All


Does anybody know where the fuse is for the tail lights? I lost both tail lights and turn signals on my 2015 Canyon.

Or may be it is a relay? Any help is appreciated.

Thanks,
Akko
By tail do you really mean stop lamps? It seems they are the same on our trucks. The tails come on with the lights, different circuit. A quick look at the outfitter manual shows a 10 amp in the box under the hood. I would play with the hazard switch too. I've seen those get dirty and kill the stop/turn lamps. Just turn it on and off a few times just in case. Past experience has shown they get a bad connection inside from lack of use I think.(but for some reason I don't think this will be the case on a BCM controlled lamp) :( but worth a shot anyway.

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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-09-2017, 02:46 PM
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By tail do you really mean stop lamps? It seems they are the same on our trucks. The tails come on with the lights, different circuit. A quick look at the outfitter manual shows a 10 amp in the box under the hood. I would play with the hazard switch too. I've seen those get dirty and kill the stop/turn lamps. Just turn it on and off a few times just in case. Past experience has shown they get a bad connection inside from lack of use I think.(but for some reason I don't think this will be the case on a BCM controlled lamp) :( but worth a shot anyway.
update, those fuses I saw are for the trailer stop/turn. I could find exactly NO fuse for stop/turn except the high center stop lamp. (does it work?)It's hard to tell but I'm guessing the BCM sends voltage directly to those lights. I would think there would be a fuse protecting those circuits of course but it might be a BCM fuse. I think I would check every fuse with a test light to be sure. Good luck, I'm curious now what the problem is.....please let us know.

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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-09-2017, 02:53 PM
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update, those fuses I saw are for the trailer stop/turn. I could find exactly NO fuse for stop/turn except the high center stop lamp. (does it work?)It's hard to tell but I'm guessing the BCM sends voltage directly to those lights. I would think there would be a fuse protecting those circuits of course but it might be a BCM fuse. I think I would check every fuse with a test light to be sure. Good luck, I'm curious now what the problem is.....please let us know.
Kind of strange, I was seeing the same thing. I wondered if the trailer stop/turn actually did the rear tail lights on the truck, but doesn't seem to.

I guess I also have to ask, if you lost rear tail/turn lights, did OP lose front turn lights?

Is OP getting a fast clicking of the turn signals like you see when a bulb is burned out?

The way all roads lead to the BCM for so many systems, it is almost impossible for a shade tree mechanic to track down a problem.

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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-09-2017, 03:24 PM
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Kind of strange, I was seeing the same thing. I wondered if the trailer stop/turn actually did the rear tail lights on the truck, but doesn't seem to.

I guess I also have to ask, if you lost rear tail/turn lights, did OP lose front turn lights?

Is OP getting a fast clicking of the turn signals like you see when a bulb is burned out?

The way all roads lead to the BCM for so many systems, it is almost impossible for a shade tree mechanic to track down a problem.
Yes, I guess the trailer fuses could be them but I don't think so. More info from the OP would be nice. Does the emg flasher work? Front lamps? High center stop lamp? Left and right stop lamps? Hyper flashing like you said? DIC warnings at all?
Anyway yes, that BCM controls so much stuff its crazy. In fact a computer of some sort controls damn near everything. It is really frustrating when you get to the part of diagnoses and the book says "plug in that $10,000 scan tool now". FREEK! LOL

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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-09-2017, 03:26 PM
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When I popped a fuse doing my HID relay harness, ( I was working on driver side), my drivers side LED signature light and parking light went out, my rear driver side tail light was out, and passenger low beam...everything else worked... yea explain that to me!


It drove me NUTS, it was a fuse in the foot well kick panel..

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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-09-2017, 03:55 PM Thread Starter
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Hello All

Thanks for all the feedback. I checked all fuses under the hood and on the passenger side, they were all good, I even checked a few relays.

I have no tail lights at all, no stop light nor turn signal neither the 3rd center light works. However I have full functioning lights in the front including turn signals and hazard. Also they are not blinking fast, just normal, and no codes.

I should note that I have changed all the light bulbs to LED with resistors a month after I got the truck (June 2015) and I had no problems until now.

Looking at the wiring diagram it looks like the BCM is sending power directly to the bulbs.

I'm heading out to the dealer tomorrow, we'll see how much this will cost, now that I have 42000 miles on odometer and no warranty.
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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-09-2017, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by akkoacanyon View Post
Hello All

Thanks for all the feedback. I checked all fuses under the hood and on the passenger side, they were all good, I even checked a few relays.

I have no tail lights at all, no stop light nor turn signal neither the 3rd center light works. However I have full functioning lights in the front including turn signals and hazard. Also they are not blinking fast, just normal, and no codes.

I should note that I have changed all the light bulbs to LED with resistors a month after I got the truck (June 2015) and I had no problems until now.

Looking at the wiring diagram it looks like the BCM is sending power directly to the bulbs.

I'm heading out to the dealer tomorrow, we'll see how much this will cost, now that I have 42000 miles on odometer and no warranty.
Did you check ALL of the fuses? I just noticed that there are a boatload of fuses that are just labeled Body Control Module 1 - 8. I wonder if these are fuses for output from the BCM.

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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-09-2017, 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by akkoacanyon View Post
Hello All

Thanks for all the feedback. I checked all fuses under the hood and on the passenger side, they were all good, I even checked a few relays.

I have no tail lights at all, no stop light nor turn signal neither the 3rd center light works. However I have full functioning lights in the front including turn signals and hazard. Also they are not blinking fast, just normal, and no codes.

I should note that I have changed all the light bulbs to LED with resistors a month after I got the truck (June 2015) and I had no problems until now.

Looking at the wiring diagram it looks like the BCM is sending power directly to the bulbs.

I'm heading out to the dealer tomorrow, we'll see how much this will cost, now that I have 42000 miles on odometer and no warranty.
They arent going to like your led's I can tell you that. I'm thinking bad ground. Do both the rear lamp assemblies share the same ground? I would pull the lenses out and have a peek before I paid the dealer $120 an hour to play with my lights. Since you have no hyper flash or messages on the DIC it seems your resistors are working. anyway I would do a good visual inspection before you take it in.

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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-09-2017, 05:29 PM Thread Starter
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They arent going to like your led's I can tell you that. I'm thinking bad ground. Do both the rear lamp assemblies share the same ground? I would pull the lenses out and have a peek before I paid the dealer $120 an hour to play with my lights. Since you have no hyper flash or messages on the DIC it seems your resistors are working. anyway I would do a good visual inspection before you take it in.
Thanks for your input. I will quickly look at the bulbs and make sure it is not a connection issue, however having all five lights (2 in each tail light plus the 3rd light) go out or having bad connectionshape all at the same time will be odd.
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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-09-2017, 11:17 PM
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Thanks for your input. I will quickly look at the bulbs and make sure it is not a connection issue, however having all five lights (2 in each tail light plus the 3rd light) go out or having bad connectionshape all at the same time will be odd.

yes very odd, thats why I'm wondering if it has a common ground for both the rear assemblies that has come loose. I thought you said the third light worked??

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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-10-2017, 12:39 AM
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Check the ground to the lights. It is about the only thing common to both tail and stop lights.

I assume that you are working on a 2nd gen Colorado and I do nto have wiring diagrams for them but on a first gen Colorado, the ground is NOT the chassis. It is single wire going from front the rear back to the front. In fact the bed and frame are not grounded. Mine are grounded because I added a jumper from the body to the frame to correct a trailer wiring ground problem.

I can only guess that they did 2nd gen Colorados the same way. I would look for a loose wire going front to the front to the rear.

If you want to test this, temporarily run a wire in just about any gauge 18 or larger from the battery negative terminal to any failing light ground connection. Then see what happens.

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post #16 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-10-2017, 05:09 PM Thread Starter
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Check the ground to the lights. It is about the only thing common to both tail and stop lights.

I assume that you are working on a 2nd gen Colorado and I do nto have wiring diagrams for them but on a first gen Colorado, the ground is NOT the chassis. It is single wire going from front the rear back to the front. In fact the bed and frame are not grounded. Mine are grounded because I added a jumper from the body to the frame to correct a trailer wiring ground problem.

I can only guess that they did 2nd gen Colorados the same way. I would look for a loose wire going front to the front to the rear.

If you want to test this, temporarily run a wire in just about any gauge 18 or larger from the battery negative terminal to any failing light ground connection. Then see what happens.
After trying almost everything, I was too lazy and it was too cold to try one last thing that I originally had planned to do, try the regular bulbs.

That cost me $200 at the dealer and the bulbs were the culprit.

Can someone please explain to me how is it possible for all 4 LED bulbs to burn all at once?

The reason why I know that they all died, pretty much, at the same time is that I remote start the truck every morning and always watch for the taillights to flash, and it worked the day before.
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post #17 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-10-2017, 06:56 PM
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After trying almost everything, I was too lazy and it was too cold to try one last thing that I originally had planned to do, try the regular bulbs.

That cost me $200 at the dealer and the bulbs were the culprit.

Can someone please explain to me how is it possible for all 4 LED bulbs to burn all at once?

The reason why I know that they all died, pretty much, at the same time is that I remote start the truck every morning and always watch for the taillights to flash, and it worked the day before.
OMG well that is better than what I was thinking. BCM. after looking at the upfitter wiring (again) it shows the two light assemblies have a ground of their own, so I thought oh crap, his BCM fried, its not the ground.
I personally cannot explain how they could all die at once. Short of a power spike (not likely) it shouldn't happen. Are you sure they all went at once?

I've been playing with LEDs for a few years (in my house, not the car)and that BS about them lasting forever is just that, BS. I guess technically the LED might last a very long time but maybe the rest of the circuit that makes them work doesn't? They are getting much better fast though.....Just about every bulb in my house is LED now. I've been having good luck with the newer ones and the price is finally fair.

Anyway thanks for the update, glad you got it sorted out. I always like to hear what the problem was and hopefully learn from it.

Did they remove your resisters and put new bulbs in it? I just ordered some Jstar something or another LEDs for backups. They said can bus friendly and are supposed to be very bright, we shall see. I don't really want to cut into my wiring for resistors to do any LEDs so I'm staying away from that. If you didn't need resistors I would run them for sure. I like to idea of low current draw and low heat but that resistor negates that :(

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post #18 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-11-2017, 08:48 AM Thread Starter
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OMG well that is better than what I was thinking. BCM. after looking at the upfitter wiring (again) it shows the two light assemblies have a ground of their own, so I thought oh crap, his BCM fried, its not the ground.
I personally cannot explain how they could all die at once. Short of a power spike (not likely) it shouldn't happen. Are you sure they all went at once?

I've been playing with LEDs for a few years (in my house, not the car)and that BS about them lasting forever is just that, BS. I guess technically the LED might last a very long time but maybe the rest of the circuit that makes them work doesn't? They are getting much better fast though.....Just about every bulb in my house is LED now. I've been having good luck with the newer ones and the price is finally fair.

Anyway thanks for the update, glad you got it sorted out. I always like to hear what the problem was and hopefully learn from it.

Did they remove your resisters and put new bulbs in it? I just ordered some Jstar something or another LEDs for backups. They said can bus friendly and are supposed to be very bright, we shall see. I don't really want to cut into my wiring for resistors to do any LEDs so I'm staying away from that. If you didn't need resistors I would run them for sure. I like to idea of low current draw and low heat but that resistor negates that :(

The reason why I know they failed pretty much at the same time is becuase I drove to work and back on Friday and everything was working, the truck sat there until Monday morning and when I remote started it I noticed that the tail lights did not flash when I hit the lock button, so something happened between Friday night and Monday morning while the truck was sitting there.


The dealer tried one bulb without even removing the resistor and it was working (the resisitor is only needed for the blinker), then I disconnected all the resistors when I went home and put back all the original bulbs, now everthing is fine.


The LEDs lasted 16 months of normal use (1 year warranty did not help). The only one left to fix is the 3rd light and I'll do that sometime this weekend when the rain and snow stop.


Honestly I have lost faith in the LEDs, at least in the JDM brand, even one of the switch-back types that I have in the front is half working.


The LEDs in my last Nissan Frontier lasted 6 years and they were all working when I sold the truck. The only difference was that they were all separate bulbs for Stop and turn Signals, may be these dual pupose versions are not as robust.


All the LEDs that I have used in the past required resistors when used with turn signals. Maybe future BCMs will be smart enough to not require resistors and can detect the small current draws of LEDs.
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post #19 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-11-2017, 02:54 PM
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The reason why I know they failed pretty much at the same time is becuase I drove to work and back on Friday and everything was working, the truck sat there until Monday morning and when I remote started it I noticed that the tail lights did not flash when I hit the lock button, so something happened between Friday night and Monday morning while the truck was sitting there.


The dealer tried one bulb without even removing the resistor and it was working (the resisitor is only needed for the blinker), then I disconnected all the resistors when I went home and put back all the original bulbs, now everthing is fine.


The LEDs lasted 16 months of normal use (1 year warranty did not help). The only one left to fix is the 3rd light and I'll do that sometime this weekend when the rain and snow stop.


Honestly I have lost faith in the LEDs, at least in the JDM brand, even one of the switch-back types that I have in the front is half working.


The LEDs in my last Nissan Frontier lasted 6 years and they were all working when I sold the truck. The only difference was that they were all separate bulbs for Stop and turn Signals, may be these dual pupose versions are not as robust.

All the LEDs that I have used in the past required resistors when used with turn signals. Maybe future BCMs will be smart enough to not require resistors and can detect the small current draws of LEDs.
yeah, maybe the dual tail/turn-stop thing is a bit much for them, they can't hold up? I'm guessing it is probably just the quality of the bulbs you buy. The problem is how do you know if they a good? right?

I'm thinking in the future the whole lamp assembly will be one unit with non-replaceable LEDs. Is that how the new cars you see with stock LED tails are set up? Do they have replaceable LED "modules" or something? Anyone know? I've never looked at one.

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