Retrofit in OEM projectors - Page 3 - Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon
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post #41 of 97 (permalink) Old 01-28-2017, 08:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nwscoobie View Post
Splitter is only for the high beam selonid in the new projector it sends a signal to open the shield down to enable the high beam function. The splitter just makes it a plug and play so you dont have to splice into your high beam wires, for the extra 5 bucks its well worth it.


that 25% would look pretty good right now huh, also google TRS codes or ask them on facebook sometimes they will give out one.


I will post a picture


I will post a picture of the projector to show how to split it apart in the housing to remove very painlessly


Taking out the projectors will take about 3-5 minutes for the first one and 30 seconds for the second one. There are three screw holding the projector to the housing, remove those 3 and the projector will move freely. Also you will need to use the level adjustment for the headlight to get to the top screw easier you will see when you try and remove it.
There is a little plastic retainer on the projector that you can pop off in the headlight and the projector can come apart in the housing making it a breeze to remove. I learned this on the second headlight.



Yes they should be identical, a guy on another forum sent me a picture on a canyon headlight and it looked the same, I cant guarantee it 100% since I have a Colorado
You are the bomb, you've been most helpful with this topic and I really do appreciate your help and guidance. I'm almost certain I can do this myself. Are there any step by step instructions on how to hook up what harness or wires to what part of the system, that's another part of this that gets me flustered

2016 Summit White Colorado CC Z71 window tint, bug deflector, magnaflow muffler, zone 1.25 level,air dam delete, weather tech no drill mud flaps, Husky floor liners, A.R.E topper, Baja Designs Squadron R Sport amber LED fogs, Morimoto 4TL-R Bi-Xenon projectors, 35W D2S 5500 bulbs
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post #42 of 97 (permalink) Old 01-28-2017, 10:15 PM
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do you by chance have the dimensional specs of the OEM projectors? length, width height, bowl specs, lens specs, etc?

Just to compare to the aftermarket projectors you purchased.

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post #43 of 97 (permalink) Old 01-28-2017, 11:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nwscoobie View Post
The circles are the 3 screw locations and the star is the tab you can easily pop off in the headlight, best I could do.
Thanks for the pics and taking the plunge to confirm all of this! And you also showed off that you're playing with a Vive and I'm jelly.
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Morimoto XB LED Fogs, Black LT Wheels, Anzo LED Tail Lamps, OEM Black Bowties, Air Dam Delete,
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post #44 of 97 (permalink) Old 01-29-2017, 12:58 AM
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Good information here. I've done retrofit before in my Frontier from TRS. I am bummed though to find the headlights in the Colorado aren't real HID projectors.
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post #45 of 97 (permalink) Old 01-30-2017, 12:47 PM
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Damn, right when I thought I had settled and decided on popping in a set of Morimoto 2Stroke LED bulbs for the lows, I have to stumble across this thread and re-think everything with HID again. Definitely subscribed to follow some more progress of installs, but I am still on the fence between the full retrofit and 2Strokes to be honest. Plan on pairing down the road with some amber Squardron-R Sports for the fogs as well...
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post #46 of 97 (permalink) Old 01-30-2017, 02:49 PM
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Darn...just installed my Morimoto XB HIDs a couple months back...would have preferred going this route. Oh well. I'll keep what I've got until I get the itch to upgrade.

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post #47 of 97 (permalink) Old 01-31-2017, 05:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nwscoobie View Post
I forgot to note:

I am using can bus standalone adapters. They came with my Ram kit so I had to use them (They prevent bulb out warning and flicker) However If you already have a working HID kit without these then we probably do not need them.
Should I use the Morimoto anti-flicker capacitor link also just for good measure? Also, how difficult is it to connect this set-up without instructions?

Thanks

2016 Summit White Colorado CC Z71 window tint, bug deflector, magnaflow muffler, zone 1.25 level,air dam delete, weather tech no drill mud flaps, Husky floor liners, A.R.E topper, Baja Designs Squadron R Sport amber LED fogs, Morimoto 4TL-R Bi-Xenon projectors, 35W D2S 5500 bulbs
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post #48 of 97 (permalink) Old 01-31-2017, 06:57 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Should I use the Morimoto anti-flicker capacitor link also just for good measure? Also, how difficult is it to connect this set-up without instructions?

Thanks
Well I am using the can bus adapters and have no issue with flickering, others are using drop in hid kit without a harness it looks like without issues so its up to you.
Here is a quick wiring diagram.
One thing to note you will need to run your low beam bulb inputs outside your headlight housing, so you can activate the ballasts, in my pictures of that back side of the headlight you can see where I ran it.

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post #49 of 97 (permalink) Old 01-31-2017, 07:09 PM
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I haven't had any issues with flickering and I'm without the canbus/caps -- running for over a year and a half now.

Got these fellas in today, so now Saturday can't get here quick enough!

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Purchased 8/4/2015
Mods: Morimoto 4TL-R Bi-Xenon Projector Conversion, Morimoto D2S 35W 6500K HID Lows,
Morimoto XB LED Fogs, Black LT Wheels, Anzo LED Tail Lamps, OEM Black Bowties, Air Dam Delete,
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post #50 of 97 (permalink) Old 01-31-2017, 08:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nwscoobie View Post
Well I am using the can bus adapters and have no issue with flickering, others are using drop in hid kit without a harness it looks like without issues so its up to you.
Here is a quick wiring diagram.
One thing to note you will need to run your low beam bulb inputs outside your headlight housing, so you can activate the ballasts, in my pictures of that back side of the headlight you can see where I ran it.
I've been running the Diode Dynamics HID kit now for almost about 6 months, plug and play, with no flickering. I called TRS today as they said I should get the anti-flicker capacitor link just in case. It's $15 so I couldn't see it hurting anything. Did you get those instructions with your kit? I'm thinking of printing those off. Even then it looks a little confusing to me. I'm not an electrical wizard by any means. What do you mean by running my low beam inputs outside of the housing? As to try not to stuff them inside of the housing?

Thanks again

2016 Summit White Colorado CC Z71 window tint, bug deflector, magnaflow muffler, zone 1.25 level,air dam delete, weather tech no drill mud flaps, Husky floor liners, A.R.E topper, Baja Designs Squadron R Sport amber LED fogs, Morimoto 4TL-R Bi-Xenon projectors, 35W D2S 5500 bulbs
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post #51 of 97 (permalink) Old 01-31-2017, 09:43 PM
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I ordered the morimoto kit with canbus harness and haven't had any issues

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk
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post #52 of 97 (permalink) Old 02-01-2017, 11:23 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CliffZ71 View Post
I've been running the Diode Dynamics HID kit now for almost about 6 months, plug and play, with no flickering. I called TRS today as they said I should get the anti-flicker capacitor link just in case. It's $15 so I couldn't see it hurting anything. Did you get those instructions with your kit? I'm thinking of printing those off. Even then it looks a little confusing to me. I'm not an electrical wizard by any means. What do you mean by running my low beam inputs outside of the housing? As to try not to stuff them inside of the housing?

Thanks again
Low beam wire comes out of the housing to plug into the ballast or plug into the relay harness

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post #53 of 97 (permalink) Old 02-05-2017, 12:29 AM
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Originally Posted by bulldawg449 View Post
I haven't had any issues with flickering and I'm without the canbus/caps -- running for over a year and a half now.

Got these fellas in today, so now Saturday can't get here quick enough!

Have you got around to retrofit project yet, how did it go?

2016 Summit White Colorado CC Z71 window tint, bug deflector, magnaflow muffler, zone 1.25 level,air dam delete, weather tech no drill mud flaps, Husky floor liners, A.R.E topper, Baja Designs Squadron R Sport amber LED fogs, Morimoto 4TL-R Bi-Xenon projectors, 35W D2S 5500 bulbs
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post #54 of 97 (permalink) Old 02-06-2017, 03:21 PM Thread Starter
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I will be attempting to do a retro fit in these headlights. Not as easy as the factory projector replacement but I am going to search for the best replacement projector.


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post #55 of 97 (permalink) Old 02-06-2017, 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by CliffZ71 View Post
Have you got around to retrofit project yet, how did it go?
Everything went well! It's honestly so straightforward that I didn't do any pics. @nwscoobie's pic highlighting the screws and clip is plenty to do the job. As I figured, getting the bumper off was the biggest pain to get to the headlamps. You will definitely need to remove the headlights to do this job. If you're getting into the HID game with the truck for the first time (or looking to invest the money), I'd say go with a 55w for going to these. I feel the light output isn't being thrown as well as the OEM projectors, but that could be chalked up to less glare coming out of them. The cutoff is crisp and awesome. I've put aside doing the high beams in them for right now as I didn't have the patience to work them in since i was also fitting the grille guard at the same time.
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Mods: Morimoto 4TL-R Bi-Xenon Projector Conversion, Morimoto D2S 35W 6500K HID Lows,
Morimoto XB LED Fogs, Black LT Wheels, Anzo LED Tail Lamps, OEM Black Bowties, Air Dam Delete,
Westin Sportsman Grille Guard (Black)


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post #56 of 97 (permalink) Old 02-06-2017, 09:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bulldawg449 View Post
Everything went well! It's honestly so straightforward that I didn't do any pics. @nwscoobie's pic highlighting the screws and clip is plenty to do the job. As I figured, getting the bumper off was the biggest pain to get to the headlamps. You will definitely need to remove the headlights to do this job. If you're getting into the HID game with the truck for the first time (or looking to invest the money), I'd say go with a 55w for going to these. I feel the light output isn't being thrown as well as the OEM projectors, but that could be chalked up to less glare coming out of them. The cutoff is crisp and awesome. I've put aside doing the high beams in them for right now as I didn't have the patience to work them in since i was also fitting the grille guard at the same time.
Ok, thanks for the heads up, I'll be ordering my kit next week. Won't the 55w put out too much heat to bulbs? I'll also be installing the anti-flicker and also not running the can-bus. I did contact TRS today and said I could get away without using them. Thanks for the input.

2016 Summit White Colorado CC Z71 window tint, bug deflector, magnaflow muffler, zone 1.25 level,air dam delete, weather tech no drill mud flaps, Husky floor liners, A.R.E topper, Baja Designs Squadron R Sport amber LED fogs, Morimoto 4TL-R Bi-Xenon projectors, 35W D2S 5500 bulbs
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post #57 of 97 (permalink) Old 02-06-2017, 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by CliffZ71 View Post
Ok, thanks for the heads up, I'll be ordering my kit next week. Won't the 55w put out too much heat to bulbs? I'll also be installing the anti-flicker and also not running the can-bus. I did contact TRS today and said I could get away without using them. Thanks for the input.
55w does have a shorter lifespan. Personally, the 35w is plenty for me, but some others may want it a bit brighter.

2015 Red Hot Colorado Z71 2WD Crew Cab
Purchased 8/4/2015
Mods: Morimoto 4TL-R Bi-Xenon Projector Conversion, Morimoto D2S 35W 6500K HID Lows,
Morimoto XB LED Fogs, Black LT Wheels, Anzo LED Tail Lamps, OEM Black Bowties, Air Dam Delete,
Westin Sportsman Grille Guard (Black)


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post #58 of 97 (permalink) Old 02-06-2017, 11:00 PM
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55w does have a shorter lifespan. Personally, the 35w is plenty for me, but some others may want it a bit brighter.
Ok thanks, I think I'll stick with the 35w for now. Maybe down the road I'll do some tinkering around. So do you think it took about 2hrs or so to complete? I won't be in a rush that's for sure, but just looking for a time line.

2016 Summit White Colorado CC Z71 window tint, bug deflector, magnaflow muffler, zone 1.25 level,air dam delete, weather tech no drill mud flaps, Husky floor liners, A.R.E topper, Baja Designs Squadron R Sport amber LED fogs, Morimoto 4TL-R Bi-Xenon projectors, 35W D2S 5500 bulbs
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post #59 of 97 (permalink) Old 02-06-2017, 11:32 PM Thread Starter
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Everything went well! It's honestly so straightforward that I didn't do any pics. @nwscoobie's pic highlighting the screws and clip is plenty to do the job. As I figured, getting the bumper off was the biggest pain to get to the headlamps. You will definitely need to remove the headlights to do this job. If you're getting into the HID game with the truck for the first time (or looking to invest the money), I'd say go with a 55w for going to these. I feel the light output isn't being thrown as well as the OEM projectors, but that could be chalked up to less glare coming out of them. The cutoff is crisp and awesome. I've put aside doing the high beams in them for right now as I didn't have the patience to work them in since i was also fitting the grille guard at the same time.
I am glad you were able to get it done without any issues. The 4TL-R beam is pretty good overall, the width is lacking compared to most projectors and we cant adjust left to right so it is focused towards the front. I have tossed around the idea of adding spacers between the project and the housing to adjust the projector horizontally.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CliffZ71 View Post
Ok thanks, I think I'll stick with the 35w for now. Maybe down the road I'll do some tinkering around. So do you think it took about 2hrs or so to complete? I won't be in a rush that's for sure, but just looking for a time line.
2-3 with bumper removal and install, if you have the right tools also helps. I have electric ratchets so that helps taking the bumper off. 55w over time can burn projector bowls, does not happen all the time but can happen. I have went with 55w before without issues.

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post #60 of 97 (permalink) Old 02-07-2017, 06:05 PM
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I would add capacitors across ballast inputs or LED retrofits for that matter. The chassis controller pulse width modulates drive to the halogens, regulating filament voltage at 13 Vrms for longer life. The PWM frequency is 100Hz. That's plenty fast for thermal averaging of a tungsten filament but a bit long for repetitive dropouts to electronic circuit inputs.

Duty cycle varies as system voltage varies. To regulate lamps at 13 Vrms, duty=(13/Vsys)^2
At 16Vdc max per J1455 the ballasts will have to draw current from capacitors for 3.4mS every 10mS. 7400uF would hold input voltage ripple voltage to 1Vpp for a 35W ballast.

The typ 4700uF caps provided by the retrofit vendors are likely ok as the ballasts can stand more ripple voltage than 1V.
I would personally DIY and look for 10,000uF 25V 105C with a ripple current rating of 3Arms or better. Actual ripple current stress will be 2 to 2.5Arms. I wouldn't expect affordable caps that can fit in these small ballasts to be very happy about that in the long term.

None of these ballasts interface to canbus. The system wouldn't know what to do with them if they did. The system controllers that do things like PWM the headlights may communicate with each other over canbus but they are upstream of the headlights and would perform the same function regardless of communication bus. The issue is PWM and the resulting repetitive dropouts when applied to power converter (ballast) inputs.

See attached scope capture of low beam filament voltage. This was taken directly after start at about 1500rpm and 14Vdc system voltage.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Low Beam.jpg (156.4 KB, 42 views)

Last edited by Chuck_B; 02-07-2017 at 06:40 PM. Reason: Photo parameters
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