Service Theft Deterrent:::> Battery Issue? - Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon
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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 06-19-2017, 10:11 AM Thread Starter
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Service Theft Deterrent:::> Battery Issue?

This morning when I cranked my truck, it didn't seem to have the power in the crank I usually hear. Once truck started, I got a SERVICE THEFT DETERRENT message on the DIC.

I pulled up to the stop sign at the end of the street, killed the engine, pulled the key, opened the door, closed door, and re-started the truck. Got the same message, and when I cleared it, got the message about open & close window. Again, when I cranked it this time, the power seemed lacking. I opened and closed driver window and that message went away.

DIC voltage was 14.3 - 14.5 as I started my drive to work, as I got closer, had dropped to 13.8 volts.

In past vehicles, the hesitation in cranking power would tell me I was going to need a new battery soon. Assuming it cranks tonight to go home, will check out the battery with voltmeter, may be getting a new battery soon. Only 2 1/1 years old, but crossed 52K miles yesterday.

Just documenting for followup.

2015 Canyon SLT, Copper Red, 2WD, CC, SB, V6, Tow, blk leather, factory spray liner, safety pkg, generic roll up bed cover, Tekonsha P3 Brake Controller.
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 06-19-2017, 11:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaryBosse View Post

DIC voltage was 14.3 - 14.5 as I started my drive to work, as I got closer, had dropped to 13.8 volts.

In past vehicles, the hesitation in cranking power would tell me I was going to need a new battery soon. Assuming it cranks tonight to go home, will check out the battery with voltmeter, may be getting a new battery soon. Only 2 1/1 years old, but crossed 52K miles yesterday.

Just documenting for followup.
It's not unheard of for a factory battery to loose power in only 2 years or so. Especially in hot areas of the country where there may be weeks on end of +90F temps. That means under hood temps much higher. The thin plates in newer batteries do not hold up well in heat as you probably already know.

Best to put a meter on the battery and read the voltage when you turn the key to start. It shouldn't drop much lower than 12VDC or so. Any lower and that means it is at reduced capacity.
Reading static voltage on a meter with the battery under minimal load doesn't always tell much. Also, if the battery voltage drops quite a bit, it can scramble other control modules in the truck due to lower starting voltage.
Good to know though. . . . A lot of newer 2 or 3 year old vehicles from all car makers have batteries go out fairly soon.

2017 2WD Colorado LT V6 CCSB Luxury & Convenience Pkgs, Black/Ashen Gray Leather, Bullet Bedliner, ARE cap.

Last edited by GraniteBlue05; 06-19-2017 at 11:09 AM.
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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 06-20-2017, 08:41 AM Thread Starter
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Update

Ran tests when I got home last night:

Sitting in driveway with engine off, battery tested at 12.7 volts.

Cranked engine, battery tested at 13.5 volts once the truck ran for 30 seconds or so.

Killed engine, battery dropped back to 12.7 volts.

Turned headlights on, left engine off, battery dropped to 12.5 volts. (If you took your battery into a shop, they would have a load they put on battery, much higher than the headlights, to test if battery was good.)

Per these tests, the battery was reasonable.

This morning:

When I shut truck down last night, DIC was sitting on the battery output screen. So, when I cranked this morning, it was the display I saw.

Cranked slow this morning, saw the voltage drop to about 10 volts before alternator kicked in and brought it up to 15.2 volts. It came back down into the 13.5 volt range fairly quickly.

Busy day today, but I think I see a new battery in my truck tonight after I get home from work.

Trying to decide if I can get a larger battery - the battery pan is much longer than the current battery. It looks like the hot lead(s) would be able to flex enough to install a longer battery. I am a firm believer that, when looking at the exact same battery design and chemical composition, two batteries, the larger battery is going to have more backup power than the smaller.

As far as direct replacement, looks like O'Reilly and Autozone both have a battery around $155, Battery Plus has a "Duracell" with same CCA and warranty for $145, plus if I order online and pick up at store may be a 10% discount. Core charge is $18, will probably toss my tools in the truck and change in the parking lot to save us both the trouble of dealing with the core charge.

Anyone have any thoughts on batteries for our trucks? Anything to be aware of when swapping out the battery? All of these plastic covers and multiple taps off the battery make me a bit nervous. Might need a bit more than a 7/16 ratchet with an extension, or was it a 10 MM?
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2015 Canyon SLT, Copper Red, 2WD, CC, SB, V6, Tow, blk leather, factory spray liner, safety pkg, generic roll up bed cover, Tekonsha P3 Brake Controller.
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 06-23-2017, 09:09 AM Thread Starter
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Tuesday night I ran by Batteries Plus. The young kid hooked up his battery tester and announced my battery was fine. Truck cranked fine, after I first reported the issue, didn't seem to be an issue Wednesday or even Thursday morning. After work Thursday, I went to start the truck to drive home, and battery was dead. Thanks to the guy about my age driving a Ford car with several U.S. Marine insignia for jumping me off, I made it home to take my wife to dinner for our anniversary. After dinner, jumped it off and headed back over to Battery Plus. Besides having the best price, they are the closest place to me for a battery.

Replaced battery, only one issue: My radio is showing the frequency it is tuned to, but none of the other information, like call letters of station or song title/artist. I guess I will try to pull the ground wire tonight, let it set a few minutes, then re-attach. Any other thoughts on how to correct this error?

I didn't take any pictures, but here is a short HOW-TO on changing the battery. I know, should be simple, but there is a lot of junk attached to the top of the battery.

1. Tools needed: 10 MM regular depth socket, 13 MM Deep socket, or you could do this with open/box end wrenches in 10 & 13 mm sizes. Also, a fairly long, thin, slotted screwdriver. If you are short, you may want a small step of some sort. Probably not much, but a 1 foot tall platform to work from would make it easier to reach in, to lift the battery out, etc. Obviously, don't let your stool scratch the side of the truck.

2. Use 10 MM regular socket to disconnect ground. The negative battery clamp is one of those stamped sheet metal type, maybe a little better quality than some I have seen, and the head of the clamping bolt actually points upward. Uses a wedge type design to exert the clamping force.

3. Flip up the small plastic cover on the positive post and loosen the more traditional "lead" clamp on the positive side with your 10 MM socket.

4. There is a large square shaped plastic piece that covers the front 1/3 of the battery, pretty much from the battery hold down bar to the front of the battery. (Orientation is to the truck, the positive pole is toward the front bumper, the negative pole is toward the firewall. ) To remove this part, you have to gently pry the plastic clip that secures the plastic cover to the battery, this is located on the side toward the engine, other side from the fender. Once you release the clip from the engine side, you can work it loose on the fender side.

5. Using the 13 MM deep socket, remove the nut that holds down the metal hold down bar that stretches across the battery. With the nut removed, you can rotate the metal bar up, then pull it out of the slot in the fender wall.

6. The battery is held down by a second clamp, a more traditional plastic wedge at the base of the battery, engine side. The same threaded rod that you removed the metal hold down bar from in step 5 now has a hex shape portion an inch or so down the length that extends down to the plastic wedge at the base of the battery. Remove this rod and the plastic wedge. Take care to not let the washer fall off the rod as you remove the rod.

7. You can now remove the battery. A 3rd hand would be nice here, to hold the ground wires and that plastic piece from Step 4 that has multiple cables coming out from it while you lift the battery. The factory battery did not have any handles, but I borrowed from the store the scissor type battery clamp they use to carry batteries, and it was fairly easy to remove. Had to snake it out from underneath all of those negative and positive cables, but not bad.

8. New battery had some small handles integral to the battery, so I used these to pick up the new battery and place it in the truck. Little more difficult, keeping the cables out of the way as you try to drop it in. This is where that 3rd hand really would have been nice. I actually trapped part of the ground wire under the battery when I first dropped it in place, but I knew to look for this, so it was easy to clear.

NOTE: The plastic battery tray that the battery sits on in the engine compartment is perhaps 3-4" longer than the OEM battery and my battery was a direct replacement. In the bottom of the tray, there seems to be a series of raised bumps. In order to properly seat the battery, you need to make sure the battery is behind the bumps and the edge of the battery is not sitting on the bumps. These bumps would keep the battery from sliding forward once it is clamped down.

9. Re-install all the mounting hardware. Start with the plastic wedge and the long rod. Then re-install the metal hold down bar and the nut. (13 MM deep socket)

10. Snap the square plastic piece back over the front half of the battery. It snapped on nicely on my replacement battery. I was worried about whether this was going to be an issue, maybe these are all exactly to a tight specification. Hook up the positive clamp and then the negative clamp. (10 MM socket.)

You are done, insure all tools, rags, etc. are removed from under the hood and nothing could get sucked or fall into the fan or belt area of the engine compartment, then go crank your truck.

(Return old battery to retailer to recover core charge.)

Wash your hands. I am always concerned I may have gotten battery acid on my hands that I transfer to the interior of the truck or my clothes. The new sealed batteries don't seem to be as big an issue with this, but I still remember adding water to car batteries.

2015 Canyon SLT, Copper Red, 2WD, CC, SB, V6, Tow, blk leather, factory spray liner, safety pkg, generic roll up bed cover, Tekonsha P3 Brake Controller.
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