Minor update for the evening, decided to take a crack at one of the doors while I'm waiting for a tweeter
First off, the OEM manual for 2017 at least is off on how the truck goes together, or at least my WT model. Not sure about the others, but it pointed to access spots and things I don't have, so that made things tricky. Second, the majority of the plastics in this car have proven to be excellent quality, but these door parts are painted and super easy to scratch, even with the proper plastic panel tools. I always try very hard to leave no evidence I've of work on the panels, but these pieces are showing a bit of scuffing (will show as I go)
This panel must be popped up. All edges scratch even with plastic tools, so I found the best spot to be at the back, by the pad. It WILL sound like you are breaking it, notice the scuffs around the edges, minor little nicks but the tools, even my thinnest plastic popper, had a hard time getting a grip.
That part pries off, and you can see this inside.
So next, this side panel has to come off. This proved very tricky
Side panel came off, had to not only pry, but also carefully nudge each clip out with the pry tool, by pressing inside the metal clip.
The issue I think is the metal clips have a lock feature, which is this little piece of metal that jambs itself and locks against the other panel, right in the middle of the clip on the top, and bottom. This part did not want to come off, but it must to access the bolts holding the door. Again, none of these bolts are shown in the OEM manual.
These two bolts must come out
Next problem, the top of the door panel did not want to release at all. Again in the manual, it just says pull, shows a few clips but ignores the top. Not sure if I was supposed to or not, but I lifted UP and with lots of pressure, released the actual window liner part along with the door panel. It fought hard to stay on
I noted that the factory speaker has indentations from the door panel, around a foam gasket. This means I need to build a replacement baffle that ends up almost exactly as tall as the factory speaker and spacer, and then add my own foam gasket. Sometimes its not clear how tall to build a baffle, this time I know precisely.
Inside the door has a sorry excuse for deadening. Looks like it was literally slapped on, and the e-coat or seal coat or whatever that goes in the door went over that
Bare metal underneath!
Because of the bare metal issue, I made sure to cover these spots completely with deadener, which will preserve it. Using the last of my KnuKonceptz Kolossus here, split what I had left in two for the other door when its time. Knu Kolossus is better than the Reckhorn I bought to try, but more expensive and heavy. However if I were doing it all over again, I'd just get more Kolossus and skip the Reckhorn. Its not bad, but its not Kolossus! There is about a sheet and a half inside each door's inner shell, placed strategically.
The rest of my Reckhorn was used on the outer shell. Despite not being as thick and dead as the Knu, Reckhorn has a thick aluminum foil top so it helps fill holes. I added some indentation as I was covering these holes, because the plastic door panel looks like it sinks in just a bit, so I didn't want a massive clearance problem when the door goes back together
The door panel itself didn't seem very resonant in the tap and knocking tests, and it also has good reinforcement all over, so just tiny dabs of deadener across a couple panels was all I felt it needed.
Now this might need some trimming, but I decided to glue on 1/4" Neoprene I got from an order at foamsbymail. We'll see how it goes, I still need to tidy up some holes and build the baffle and foam around that, but this stuff really feels good so far.
I added some very thick, robust foam behind the speaker mount area, it is a gym mat type of closed cell PCV/NBR, figured it may help dissipate the rear wave some.
That's it for now, just a couple hours after work is all I get in the week days.