Lanson's "audio is done, time for the rest of the truck" build - 2017 Crew - Page 2 - Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon
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post #21 of 35 (permalink) Old 04-26-2017, 10:25 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by monkeyracer View Post
Get a 32" Curved double row light bar from Amazon, and the RC mounts (or the Ebay knock offs for $30). Literally bolt on (after pulling the bumper cover off) and easy to do.

For the tires, there's a thread here that talks about modifying the waffle piece to get more clearance. I don't have the link but it's somewhere here. (If I find it, I'll toss it in here)

I've got wheel spacers now (1.5" or 32mm) on the stock Canyon All Terrain rims, so I'm essentially neutral offset with that combo. I intend on getting 255/75/17 (32" OD) BFG KO2's eventually, and was planning on modifying the waffle and rear fender liner when that time comes. (I've got Bilstein 5100's coming Thursday).

Keep up the good work!
I think I'll go single-row to allow more air flow through the grille. But yeah that's the plan, use the brackets and fab it up behind the bumper there.

I'm not sure 255/75-17 is going to work without maybe extra lift or extra modding. Reason: I think you're going to hit that body mount and probably hit that spot I'm hitting in the front. The width seems just right, but that extra height is going to tag you in those spots I think. A 255/70-17 might work well though.

These tires are amazing though. I'm itching to try them in more inclement weather. Right now I can just tell you how they do in dust storms and clear weather. But I think these are a major step up from the KO tires. Falken really made a special tire here, hitting far above its price point in performance. This and the Open Country AT II are now my favorites.

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Last edited by LansonF; 04-26-2017 at 10:37 AM.
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post #22 of 35 (permalink) Old 04-26-2017, 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by LansonF View Post
I think I'll go single-row to allow more air flow through the grille. But yeah that's the plan, use the brackets and fab it up behind the bumper there.

I'm not sure 255/75-17 is going to work without maybe extra lift or extra modding. Reason: I think you're going to hit that body mount and probably hit that spot I'm hitting in the front. The width seems just right, but that extra height is going to tag you in those spots I think. A 255/70-17 might work well though.

These tires are amazing though. I'm itching to try them in more inclement weather. Right now I can just tell you how they do in dust storms and clear weather. But I think these are a major step up from the KO tires. Falken really made a special tire here, hitting far above its price point in performance. This and the Open Country AT II are now my favorites.
265/70/17 Falken A/T3W is about 31.7" and 8.7" Tread Width
255/75/17 BFG KO2 is 32" and 8.4" Tread Width

The 255/70/17 is almost an inch shorter, and I want 32's. My wife has 265/70/17 BFG KO2s on her '17 Wrangler Unlimited (came stock from factory with them), and they have performed awesome on the Jeep, and I was thinking about getting those instead of the 255/75/17s because they are the 31.6" OD (and we'd have 10 in the house total). It's too bad it's not easy to test fit her tires on my truck to check if they clear.

I'm not worried about hitting the waffle part in the front, that seems easy enough to modify. The body mount doesn't seem to be an issue either, since you were saying you clear on full compression, full steering lock (before the lift/level). I don't expect that to happen anytime other than MAYBE off road at low speeds, and the 255/75/17s are only 5mm larger, so it will probably be fine. It will definitely be close there though.


Also, are the Falkens really 53 lbs each? I thought the KO2s were heavy at 46 lbs, geez.
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post #23 of 35 (permalink) Old 04-26-2017, 12:03 PM Thread Starter
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...Also, are the Falkens really 53 lbs each? I thought the KO2s were heavy at 46 lbs, geez.
They didn't seem too heavy, but they certainly are a beefy tire, with a beefy sidewall inside. But not bad, the truck barely notices them. edit: the P265/70-17 supposedly weighs 46.5 lbs. So definitely similar.

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Last edited by LansonF; 04-26-2017 at 12:39 PM.
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post #24 of 35 (permalink) Old 04-26-2017, 11:15 PM Thread Starter
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Ok now that I've modified the fender waffles, I can say 265/70-17's fit on a 17x8.5 +7. It might have worked at stock height tbh. I'll get pics up of how I did mine, later on.
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post #25 of 35 (permalink) Old 04-27-2017, 12:08 AM Thread Starter
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OK I'm at my computer, so I can post some pics.

Stock "waffle" fender liner spacers


After I cut up the passenger side and reinstalled it


There's plenty of space now (3 pics from full lock left to a half turn and then a full turn back to center)




Since I didn't take many pics when I was covered in plastic shavings, I'll just describe what I did. I cut the waffle spacer with a jigsaw (best I could think of) and a plexiglass cutting blade one layer in, and then drilled holes in that new layer to allow the clips to install. Then I reinstalled, and it went off without a hitch. The liner flexed properly to its new position, like it was designed to do that. I had my fellow enthusiast neighbor check the work, he couldn't tell it to be different than stock, so that's a win.

If you're on the fence about this mod because you're rubbing, just do it. Don't even think about it, just grab a cutting tool and start hacking, and then drilling. You'll be done before you can even think about what you're doing and you'll be better for it. Just mark the new planned clip locations with a sharpie before you cut the old ones off, so you can reference holes. Or test-mount and then put a sharpie through the liner holes and line things up that way. I don't think you can go wrong either way.

Also, I installed the rear Eibach shocks. I had no difficulty removing the stockers, but the Eibachs were much longer than stock and took a lot of pressure to compress and hold in a compressed state, while laying underneath the truck. The tops went in without any issue of course, but the bottoms fought me. My solution was to jack up the rear end by using the bottom of the hitch mount as my jack point, and I just lifted the truck so the suspension could decompress a little bit, not enough to lift a tire. Then, I used the factory bottle jack and shimmied the shock into position and used the jack to compress the shock enough to thread the bolt through. I think maybe it would be easier to just mount the bottom first, and then let gravity and better leverage help in PULLING the shock into position at the top, but hey... whatever works, right?

Anyway, the first thing I noticed is that the stock shocks are max-length at resting height. That means there's almost no droop to the stock suspension, at least that I could tell. As soon as I put the Eibach rears on, I noticed an extremely different ride, as if more effortless and certainly smoother. I even took some pretty rough roads by house, and a pair of large dips that are for water run-off control, normally folks will creep through these dips but I decided to take them at full-speed. I barely noticed they were there! Money well spent, here, very pleased with the truck now.

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post #26 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-02-2017, 10:50 PM Thread Starter
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OK, been driving the truck and enjoying it, waiting for some detailing products to come in. Well, everything arrived so I got started with the coating project I had in mind.

First, some "before" pics.







I waited for the sun to drop down before beginning. I can't take pics of this because its caustic as hell (and I like my new Galaxy S8 phone the way it is), but my first step was to use Poorboy's World Iron Remover, Iron Remover - Paint Decontamination Spray - Poorboy's World™ Inc. ;I sprayed directly on the dirty panels, doing about 1/3rd of the truck at a time, letting it dwell and "bleed" dissolving iron from the paint. It definitely smells like crap, has noxious fumes, etc., so be sure to wear gloves and work down-wind. Once I got a section done and let it sit about 3 minutes (you can't let it dry on the paint!), I used my foam gun and laid thick suds on those panels to neutralize them. I then washed down each panel with a mitt, rinsed lightly, then ran over each panel with my favorite mechanical decontamination method, the Cobra surfacing mitt, which serves the same purpose as traditional clay. Once each panel was done, I rinsed down that section and then repeated that until the whole truck was both chemically, and mechanically decontaminated. Then I dried with my Microfiber Madness towel.






So you can probably see, the paint looks "good" but up close there's tons of water spots in the paint. Now this is bad, and this is why I'm going through the effort and expense of a coating.




Water spots!


It does look good though, at least a few feet away



So we'll be seeing, tomorrow I hope, how my Polish Angel coating process goes. I will leave the truck in the garage to rest overnight and fully dry, then get to the prime and coat steps.

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post #27 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 12:17 PM Thread Starter
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Damn I need to update this, lets see:

Well first, I polished the truck and coated with Polish angel, but I made a critical mistake of not polishing deep enough to get those water spots. Under normal lighting they didn't show up, but in the sun the truck looks like a ghosted leopard. NOT good. So I'll have to polish off the coating, compound out all the water spots and check under some brighter lights (bought a few that can do a better job), and then repolish and re-coat with Polish Angel. That said, its a good product based on my experience with it so far, and though it is expensive, a little goes a really long way so it should be worth it in the end.

This is the mess I'm dealing with on the polish side





And after I thought I got all of those marks out with light polishing






I really thought I nailed it, but guess not. ANYWAY, moving on to the next project:

I got my Tygers in. I'm unhappy with the paint so I didn't take many pics of the bars, but here's one



I got my Arsenal-Offroad LED bar. A single curved 31" 5D unit. She's bright, I tested it with a 12V supply


These are the Rough Country mounting brackets, but as you can see here I've drilled a couple extra holes in it. In this moment I was experimenting with alternate mount points, because their setup pushes the light bar too far forward to be behind the grille. I didn't want to cut up the bumper to fit this light bar, so I started adapting/experimenting.



I lack high precision tools for metal, but a jigsaw with a metal-cutting blade did this pretty well. I got pretty thin on the front edge, but its holding and these won't have a ton of stress on them. Because the light bar is curved and 31" long, I had to bend the brackets in a vice in a few different directions, to get my bar to fit.


This is the included switch for the lightbar. Way too damn big!


This was my solution, a much smaller switch



Yep, works!


This pic does not do justice to how bright this light is. This is just a few feet from the wall, and it is almost too bright to look at.


I ordered LED's and HID's. I went DDM Tuning HID low beam (5500k), Hikari high beam, and Imosontec fog lights.

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post #28 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 12:30 PM Thread Starter
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I wired up the led bar and tidied up all the wiring


Here's a comparison between the stock H11 low beam, and the DDR tuning premium HID bulb. The filament / arc bulb is EXACTLY in the same spot. Impressive!


The Hikari high beam went right in. Right behind the dust cover with space to spare, including all the wiring.



The HID low beam required me to drill through the dust cover. I used a unibit and enlarged the hole until this included seal fit snugly


Easy peasy!


That's a good beam pattern for a reflector housing with HID. I got no significant glare when looking at these at any angle I would consider important for driver in front of me or passing me. The factory lights were about the same, just more weak.


High beams added with low beam


High, low, and that light bar all on, its really bright and my S8 camera is trying to compensate


This is low, high, and light bar, now rolled down on the driveway some



This is now the finished product



Along the way I did the fog light upgrade too, but I still need to get it programmed by the dealer.

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post #29 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 05:16 PM
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I got my Tygers in. I'm unhappy with the paint so I didn't take many pics of the bars, but here's one
Have you tried to contact Tyger about the damage (if there is any), or what about the paint are you unhappy about?
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post #30 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 06:18 PM Thread Starter
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Have you tried to contact Tyger about the damage (if there is any), or what about the paint are you unhappy about?
Unhappy with the BODY paint (the water spots), the Tygers are awesome. Sorry if I didn't make that clear. I didn't want to take pics of my truck because the water spots make me mad.

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post #31 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 07:50 PM
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Unhappy with the BODY paint (the water spots), the Tygers are awesome. Sorry if I didn't make that clear. I didn't want to take pics of my truck because the water spots make me mad.
oh. got it.
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post #32 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 09:18 PM
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All around, this build is moving along fantastically.
2 comments though..... love the Spock tee, and 2nd.... people still use wired soldering pencils? Haven't seen one of those in ages.
I recall using one for dash work 10+ years ago, kicked the wire, didnt realize it and found a nice hole in my pleather seat that I switched over to a Master brand butane soldering pencil....and Id never go back.

Just tossing that out there.

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post #33 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 09:57 PM Thread Starter
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All around, this build is moving along fantastically.
2 comments though..... love the Spock tee, and 2nd.... people still use wired soldering pencils? Haven't seen one of those in ages.
I recall using one for dash work 10+ years ago, kicked the wire, didnt realize it and found a nice hole in my pleather seat that I switched over to a Master brand butane soldering pencil....and Id never go back.

Just tossing that out there.
I have a few butane ones, and also some cordless types, but I found the tips to be harder to find with some of those. Sometimes I'm soldering for a long time, but yeah you're right, its old school. BUT... the damp sponge storage is nice, because a clean tip is the key to soldering success.
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post #34 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-20-2017, 05:47 PM Thread Starter
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OK so I decided to tackle the blasted water spots that are embedded in the paint.

I started with a foam cannon bath, these shots are after some dwell time



Knowing I'll be using some aggressive compounds to get this right, I taped up the sensitive trim and inspected the paint.


This is the reason for all this. Etched water spots


I experimented with quite a few of my compounds and pads, and ended up with a working combo. This Mother's Rubbing Compound beat out every one of my other products (CG Optical, Griot's, Meg's, etc) against these water spots, and the pad I ended up using was the white Griot's BOSS pad, so it is an aggressive combo.


Here is an immediate before/after on the front driver's fender
Before



After



Once compounded thouroughly, I pulled the truck out to the direct sun to confirm, once and for all, that the water spots have been eradicated. YES, they have!


As expected, however, I now have some haze which will need to be fully polished out.





Clearly, more work to be done, so I'm off to get back to it.

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post #35 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-21-2017, 06:13 PM Thread Starter
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I have made progress. I polished the haze out with Griot's BOSS Perfecting Cream on a white Buff N Shine pad.







I then did two coats of Polish Angel Cosmic, one with the machine (black Hex-Logic pad at low speed), and one by hand (2 hours in between)






Once buffed that off, I waited another hour and then hit the truck with a light dash of Cosmic Spritz, which helps the cure time. It also increases the gloss big-time.







Now all I have to do is let it cure in the garage, and we'll see how it turned out in a sunlight check tomorrow evening.
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