Well, damn. I did the shocks and set them at max height, and I still get a tiny bit of rub on the front liner area. Not sure if that can be fixed in any way, I'll have to look around for solutions.
But word to the wise, if you're following me... get 265/65-17. My next step is either body lift which I don't want to do, or find a way to pull the liner forward, to clear the tire at full lock turning. I'm thinking of ways to replicate the spacer things (the waffle-shaped parts) that hold the bumper and liner together, only with more forward room. I'll document as I go. For now:
I started with passenger side first. I pulled the manual but realized I didn't want to exactly follow that. Eibach's instructions didn't come in the box, so I pulled those from online searching.
I first had to buy a new jack, my main one died. This Harbor Freight low-profile 3-ton unit is sweet, well-rated, and really effective. It even has the twist-handle u-joint type hydraulic valve connection so you don't have to pull the handle and reach for a separate valve, and it came with a nice rubber pad on the lower handle section. Not bad for $89.
My process: I jacked the front, put it under a stand at the front crossmember, pulled the wheel, removed the liner, unbolted the shock on the top and bottom, the sway bar link, pull the clip on the brake line to give it a little extra room to move, and then unbolt the upper control arm at the balljoint. This gave me just enough room to get the coilover out.
I pulled the liner vs. just working underneath it, because I needed to remove it to install the fog light kit anyway. A torx bit on a cordless drill driver did the job efficiently. I was extremely inefficient, however, with the 18mm bolts that hold the coilover. Access is not great, and I don't have a ratcheting wrench that fits. But if you're following along, do NOT do this job without either a thru-ratchet or something like a Gearwrench. Basically, you'll be there forever, moving 15-90 degrees at a time with each turn of the wrench. Looking back on it, I should have taken the other car and went to the store to buy one, but I'm stubborn.
Once I had the shock in my hand, I used my spring compressor and compressed the spring much, much more than I would ever think I have to. But that's what it took to get the top nut off. I then took a hammer and convinced the spring seat off. Its just a press-fit, and needed a little love-tapping but came off without much of a struggle. Advantage of doing this on a new truck.
I kept the Eibach at the 2" setting, installed the spring and hardware in the right order, and then bolted it all back together, and released the compressors. Then I heaved the whole thing back in the front end, and bolted it all back together. My order was: top strut bolts almost tight, bottom shock bolt, swaybar link bolts, then convinced upper a-arm to meet the knuckle by using a tie-down strap and a few quick ratchets to pull it into position.
The other side went quicker because I had a pattern, but this still took all afternoon and evening. I'd say the big time sucker was the 18mm top bolts, and getting the spring compressed enough. My impact gun and compressor working at full-tilt barely had enough power to get it compressed, and it can zip all the other bolts off the truck no problem. My life kept flashing before my eyes too, so probably slowed me down too.
After all this... the damn thing still rubs.
Same spot, just less of it (slightly.)
Rear clears now though, no rubbing there
As I mentioned, I installed the fog light kit while in there. That's part-way done, I just need to do the wiring to the PDC and tidy up the wires underneath. Other than that, going pretty well.