Lanson's "audio is done, time for the rest of the truck" build - 2017 Crew - Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-17-2017, 04:19 PM Thread Starter
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Lanson's "audio is done, time for the rest of the truck" build - 2017 Crew

Hi folks, I completed the audio side Lanson's Sound Quality build - 2017 Crew and now its time for pretty much the rest of this truck. Plan:

Wheels/Tires/Lugs - Fuel Recoil 17x8.5 +7 / Falken Wildpeak 265/70-17 / black spline-drive
Suspension - Eibach leveling front and matching rear shocks
Lighting - Adding OEM fog light kit
Interior - Upgrading center arm rest to soft type, and adding Aries floor mats
Exterior - Westin HDX drop steps, ProZ ProFold (Autoanything's house brand of Undercover/Extang) Bi-fold tonneau cover, and Bed Rug, tint

That's my plan, and I'll take pics as I go. I've also ponied up for a full Polish Angel coating kit, the COSMIC series with primer, coating, and top hardener. It is supposed to be bad-ass so I'll document the process, and see if the look and feel is worth the cash. Fingers crossed, because this black paint has been a real PITA to keep looking perfect...its just too darn sensitive IMO.

'17 Crew V6, sound system done, Build log of system.
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 12:05 PM Thread Starter
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Lots of parts are coming in hot, so I can finally get to work on this. I got the tint done first:




I went with 40% in back, 20% in front, and that got the rear just a bit darker which is good for me.

They added a 20% brow at the windshield at the line, looks great inside


These pics will serve as the "before" pics for the suspension, wheels/tires, lights, and other mods I do. This is all stock


For wheel/tire poke "before" pic



Eibachs came in first, can't install them yet but they sure do look pretty


Got my tires, this is my beaming little boy, he LOVES new things for the truck.

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'17 Crew V6, sound system done, Build log of system.
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 12:13 PM
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Tint looks good. That is on my list of things to do. Although I will probably just go with 35% in the fronts to match the rears. And then do a brow like you did as well.
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 02:04 PM Thread Starter
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I got my soft-touch center armrest in. I should have ordered this the day I picked up the truck.




In the words of Woody from Toy Story, "If you don't have one, GET ONE!"

Next up, the FedEx guy definitely had his work cut out for him today, haha
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'17 Crew V6, sound system done, Build log of system.
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 03:11 PM
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Subscribed. I like how detailed your builds are.

Where did you buy the center armrest?
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 04:07 PM Thread Starter
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Subscribed. I like how detailed your builds are.

Where did you buy the center armrest?
Thanks!

I got mine off an ebay link. $109 shipped, and it got here in a hurry. I ordered fog lights at the same time, they are taking a bit longer (shipped from East coast.) But yeah, well worth the money!

All I did to install was pry the rear panel off the center console (2 seconds of work with plastic tools), pop the E-clip and slide the big pin out that hinges the lid, and then pulled the whole assembly (about 2 minutes of work.) Then I used my Torx driver and undid the 4 screws that held it, put the new one on with those same screws, reinstalled the assembly and inserted the big hinge pin. E-clip went back on, rear panel back on, and done. I think it took 5 minutes all-in, while holding a beer.
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'17 Crew V6, sound system done, Build log of system.

Last edited by LansonF; 04-21-2017 at 04:23 PM.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 09:19 PM
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Nice. Count me in!

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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-22-2017, 09:20 PM Thread Starter
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'Twas a busy Saturday!

Let's look closer at this Bedrug. Its a little like my best subwoofer box carpet, but a bit more resistant to fraying (still can fray a bit), and its bonded to what I think is polyethylene closed-cell foam, which is exceptionally light. This whole thing is way lighter than I predicted


I didn't take pics of the process, but it was very straightforward. I mostly followed the manual.


With that done, it was time for my appt with Discount Tire to get the wheels and tires installed





Holy crap, much bigger than I anticipated


BUT.... pretty badass



The rear is obviously not a problem, but the front rubs like crazy. Let's look closer


It definitely strikes the front fender liner, and in fact can push on the plastic tray that connects the liner to the bumper


Clears the sway bar though


Clears the body mount by just a hair at full compression


It brushes the rear fender liner just slightly

'17 Crew V6, sound system done, Build log of system.
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-22-2017, 09:31 PM Thread Starter
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Continuing on, I backed up the truck to the garage, cringing as I rubbed particularly loud in reverse with the wheel turned to make my drive way. Ah, the suspension level will have to wait for another day. Time for the tonneau cover.

It was tedious but not hard, just more of a time-consumer to line everything up. That's OK, an excuse for a few cold ones is always welcome.


I cut the Bed Rug in the cover seam to run the drains.



After some fittin'



I added some heatshrink to the metal prop rod, to reduce its metal-on-metal clanging while stowed. Probably should have come this way, but whatever, we're modding.



Took a bit to line all things up so the seals weren't sticking up, or pressured in funny ways, or loose, but it all eventually came together.


So I still need to get the side step/sliders (hoping Tyger has theirs in stock soon again), install the fog light kit, re-polish and coat the truck with that coating I bought, and of course... install the leveling shocks. In fact, I'd hesitate to drive this thing anywhere till I get it leveled, its just a noisy rubbing mess right now.

If I were doing it again, I'd probably go 265/65-17 or 255/70-17, but what's done is done, so I'll soldier on.

'17 Crew V6, sound system done, Build log of system.
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 12:29 PM Thread Starter
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Well, damn. I did the shocks and set them at max height, and I still get a tiny bit of rub on the front liner area. Not sure if that can be fixed in any way, I'll have to look around for solutions.

But word to the wise, if you're following me... get 265/65-17. My next step is either body lift which I don't want to do, or find a way to pull the liner forward, to clear the tire at full lock turning. I'm thinking of ways to replicate the spacer things (the waffle-shaped parts) that hold the bumper and liner together, only with more forward room. I'll document as I go. For now:

I started with passenger side first. I pulled the manual but realized I didn't want to exactly follow that. Eibach's instructions didn't come in the box, so I pulled those from online searching.


I first had to buy a new jack, my main one died. This Harbor Freight low-profile 3-ton unit is sweet, well-rated, and really effective. It even has the twist-handle u-joint type hydraulic valve connection so you don't have to pull the handle and reach for a separate valve, and it came with a nice rubber pad on the lower handle section. Not bad for $89.

My process: I jacked the front, put it under a stand at the front crossmember, pulled the wheel, removed the liner, unbolted the shock on the top and bottom, the sway bar link, pull the clip on the brake line to give it a little extra room to move, and then unbolt the upper control arm at the balljoint. This gave me just enough room to get the coilover out.

I pulled the liner vs. just working underneath it, because I needed to remove it to install the fog light kit anyway. A torx bit on a cordless drill driver did the job efficiently. I was extremely inefficient, however, with the 18mm bolts that hold the coilover. Access is not great, and I don't have a ratcheting wrench that fits. But if you're following along, do NOT do this job without either a thru-ratchet or something like a Gearwrench. Basically, you'll be there forever, moving 15-90 degrees at a time with each turn of the wrench. Looking back on it, I should have taken the other car and went to the store to buy one, but I'm stubborn.

Once I had the shock in my hand, I used my spring compressor and compressed the spring much, much more than I would ever think I have to. But that's what it took to get the top nut off. I then took a hammer and convinced the spring seat off. Its just a press-fit, and needed a little love-tapping but came off without much of a struggle. Advantage of doing this on a new truck.

I kept the Eibach at the 2" setting, installed the spring and hardware in the right order, and then bolted it all back together, and released the compressors. Then I heaved the whole thing back in the front end, and bolted it all back together. My order was: top strut bolts almost tight, bottom shock bolt, swaybar link bolts, then convinced upper a-arm to meet the knuckle by using a tie-down strap and a few quick ratchets to pull it into position.




The other side went quicker because I had a pattern, but this still took all afternoon and evening. I'd say the big time sucker was the 18mm top bolts, and getting the spring compressed enough. My impact gun and compressor working at full-tilt barely had enough power to get it compressed, and it can zip all the other bolts off the truck no problem. My life kept flashing before my eyes too, so probably slowed me down too.

After all this... the damn thing still rubs.

Same spot, just less of it (slightly.)


Rear clears now though, no rubbing there



As I mentioned, I installed the fog light kit while in there. That's part-way done, I just need to do the wiring to the PDC and tidy up the wires underneath. Other than that, going pretty well.

'17 Crew V6, sound system done, Build log of system.
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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 12:40 PM
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Bummer...I was hoping to go up from my 265/65-17 to the 70s if I decided to level my truck. I just think too much wheel well in the front with the 65s if I raise the front two inches. That inch taller tire really would go along way in filling up that space but I do not want to deal with rubbing.

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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 01:10 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BeastStarr68 View Post
Bummer...I was hoping to go up from my 265/65-17 to the 70s if I decided to level my truck. I just think too much wheel well in the front with the 65s if I raise the front two inches. That inch taller tire really would go along way in filling up that space but I do not want to deal with rubbing.
Yep, I think it has everything to do with my wheel choice though. 17x8.5 +7. With factory offsets or close, you might be OK. MIGHT...

GM, add more space to work with here! Sheesh!

'17 Crew V6, sound system done, Build log of system.
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by BeastStarr68 View Post
Bummer...I was hoping to go up from my 265/65-17 to the 70s if I decided to level my truck. I just think too much wheel well in the front with the 65s if I raise the front two inches. That inch taller tire really would go along way in filling up that space but I do not want to deal with rubbing.
I believe this issue is because of the +7mm wheel offset with the 70's. Most others that are using this size on their +33 factory wheels with a 1.25 and up lift without any contact, except for Duratracs and KO2 more aggressive tread rubbing the swaybar.
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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 01:47 PM
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I believe this issue is because of the +7mm wheel offset with the 70's. Most others that are using this size on their +33 factory wheels with a 1.25 and up lift without any contact, except for Duratracs and KO2 more aggressive tread rubbing the swaybar.
Yeah...I was thinking of getting the adjustable shocks to level my truck when my Duratracs need replacing and also buy some different 17 inch wheels and going with the Wildpeak tires.

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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old Today, 01:28 PM Thread Starter
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I believe this issue is because of the +7mm wheel offset with the 70's. Most others that are using this size on their +33 factory wheels with a 1.25 and up lift without any contact, except for Duratracs and KO2 more aggressive tread rubbing the swaybar.
Quote:
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Yeah...I was thinking of getting the adjustable shocks to level my truck when my Duratracs need replacing and also buy some different 17 inch wheels and going with the Wildpeak tires.
Yep, I believe that's it.

However, I drove it today after zip-tying the fog light harness out of the way temporarily, and other then a tiny bit of rubbing at full lock, it drove great and without issue. The Wildpeak tires have a bit of roar but its nothing major, and they run really smooth. The Eibachs have great damping, no issues there. I need to get the rears bolted in still, but that's a lot easier than the fronts. The fronts literally wore me out, especially after spending all day prior installing the other bits and pieces.

So, now I have a question. I think I want to put on a bull bar I think, but I want one with a light bar opening (because that's what the bar is for really, to hang something.) I have been looking at the DeeZee DZ502778 unit, the one with the more closed-off bottom plate, and an opening for a light bar. Its the NXB-series I think. There's also the TrailFX one, the B1604B, and it looks pretty nice as well. I could also do the RC but I don't think they are available anymore. I also need to find side steps in stock, to finish this up. Not sure I want to wait months for that.

'17 Crew V6, sound system done, Build log of system.
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post #16 of 17 (permalink) Old Today, 02:50 PM
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I need to get the rears bolted in still, but that's a lot easier than the fronts. The fronts literally wore me out, especially after spending all day prior installing the other bits and pieces.
The rear shocks will take you all of 15 minutes to do. If it takes longer, you're doing it wrong.

Truck's looking good!
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post #17 of 17 (permalink) Old Today, 04:52 PM Thread Starter
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I might just skip the bull bar and go right to a light bar mount, since there's some space in the front end for a single or double-row curved bar.

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