Tire relocation and 2nd battery setup - Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon
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post #1 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-19-2016, 08:15 AM Thread Starter
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Tire relocation and 2nd battery setup

So, looking to relocate my spare tire for multiple reasons and wondering for those who have done it, where did you put it? I know most commonly and easiest place to relocated to is the bed of the truck. Only problem with that is I use the bed of my truck too often (Bicycles, Motorcycles, misc projects I'm working on atm, etc) to mount my spare there. Was thinking of a few solutions but not sure which one yet. First is a contractors roof rack that could be used for storing the spare along with other offroad gear as I start building up my rig. (something like this Smittybilt Contractors Rack and I would weld (assuming its steel) a floor to the rack and some more structural support to it. Or get a swinging tailgate with a place for mounting the spare. Dont know if there's much aftermarket for this though. Havent had much luck finding anything.

Also, wanted to talk second battery setup for the accessories, lights, winches and stuff. Where did you mount that. Did you relocate anything in the engine bay to make it fit, and what technology did you use for charging / diverting power?

I ask for as much detail as possible to help me out and learn more about these systems you guys have setup.

Thanks!

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post #2 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-19-2016, 08:51 AM
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I will post some pics when i get back to my truck thursday. I built an angle mounted tire carrier for aftermarket rim and tire, droped the spare under the truck. I am working on relocating an alternate power system in the bed to power water pump and small compressor. The problem is that our alternators are going to have a hard time keeping the batteries charged. Ive reached out to several aftermarket alternator High Output companies and nothing had been designed for our trucks yet.
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post #3 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-19-2016, 08:56 AM
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Expedition Portal has some great information on dual battery setups.

Power Systems: 12v, Solar, Gen. - Expedition Portal

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post #4 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-19-2016, 09:31 AM
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I will post some pics when i get back to my truck thursday. I built an angle mounted tire carrier for aftermarket rim and tire, droped the spare under the truck. I am working on relocating an alternate power system in the bed to power water pump and small compressor. The problem is that our alternators are going to have a hard time keeping the batteries charged. Ive reached out to several aftermarket alternator High Output companies and nothing had been designed for our trucks yet.
What type of items are you powering with your spare battery? I would assume that it would be intermittent usage and fairly rare, so in between usage it could charge. If your "battery" usage is that substantial, then I think a generator makes more sense than a spare battery.

Little hint for charging batteries. Will not solve @colorado_3180 's issue, but might be helpful for others. By engaging the TOW/HAUL mode, the alternator output is supposed to be increased. This is to charge the on-board batteries on a trailer.
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post #5 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-19-2016, 09:50 AM
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How about installing the roll bar that comes with (I think) the All Terrain model. Weld a tire support on top. It would keep the size down so that it's not such overkill, you can add some lights and make brackets on the back side for holding other off road tools. It would keep everything out of your bed, yet be easily accessible.

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post #6 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-19-2016, 11:58 AM Thread Starter
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How about installing the roll bar that comes with (I think) the All Terrain model. Weld a tire support on top. It would keep the size down so that it's not such overkill, you can add some lights and make brackets on the back side for holding other off road tools. It would keep everything out of your bed, yet be easily accessible.
Are you talking about the trailboss model? That "roll bar" is $1k from the dealer and would be virtually useless and would look bad imo if I were to weld a rack to go over the roof.

I'd probably just go with a roof rack, but also havent seen much aftermarket for anything like that either.

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post #7 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-19-2016, 05:44 PM
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First, it doesn't have to be the Trail Boss rack, just something like it. You could easily have one made or buy an aftermarket model. Second, it certainly wouldn't look as bad as a construction rack as you posted. How cool would that be as you went off roading with your construction rack? You asked for suggestions, I guess you really weren't looking for any when you criticize any that are given!

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post #8 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-19-2016, 06:07 PM
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Added a second battery to the bed but it's mainly for my fridge when camping so I don't have any accessories off it that will need to be run to the front of the vehicle.

Details in my build thread ;)
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post #9 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-19-2016, 10:46 PM
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I've done some research and have decided to go with a Wilco carrier for the back (Hitchgate? Solo - WilcoOffroad.comWilcoOffroad.com) probably the "Solo" shown in the link but maybe the "Max"; I haven't finished planning things yet but definitely don't want to use up valuable bed space for spare wheel storage. I'm planning to go with a cage style rear with side mounted storage, most likely a Leitner Designs system (CHEVROLET). I need space for a second battery and air compressor; I haven't worked out the plan yet but most likely I'll install the deep cycle, house battery at the front right or left of the truck bed and connect it to auxiliaries through an SPod system (4x4 SPOD Since 2005 - The ORIGINAL JEEP Over The Windshield Switch Console - Jeep Power Distribution System) and charge it using an isolator.

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post #10 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-23-2016, 08:49 AM
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I store my spare on the side of my house. I can't use it as I went to a larger sized tire.

I did mount my on board air setup in the spare tire location. I carry tire plugs and my AAA card to hopefully get me out of most flat tire situations.

I carry a gun because cops are too heavy...

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post #11 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-23-2016, 09:00 AM
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I store my spare on the side of my house. I can't use it as I went to a larger sized tire.

I did mount my on board air setup in the spare tire location. I carry tire plugs and my AAA card to hopefully get me out of most flat tire situations.
I once picked up 7 nails in one tire in a remote section of I-10 just east of Lake Charles early one Sunday morning. (That may be redundant, using word REMOTE in same sentence with the description of that section of I-10.)

Limped in to Lake Charles on the donut spare that came with the car we were driving, purchased a plug kit and a few extra plugs, drove over to a gas station that offered free air and went to work. Seemed like an hour later, I was back on the road, carefully driving the rest of the way to San Antonio. Needless to say, I wasn't going to trust a tire with 7 plugs, so I purchased new tires that I was needing anyway pretty quickly that same week.
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post #12 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-23-2016, 10:38 AM Thread Starter
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First, it doesn't have to be the Trail Boss rack, just something like it. You could easily have one made or buy an aftermarket model. Second, it certainly wouldn't look as bad as a construction rack as you posted. How cool would that be as you went off roading with your construction rack? You asked for suggestions, I guess you really weren't looking for any when you criticize any that are given!
Easy there killer. Everyone is entitled to their opinion. I said something like the contractors rack, not the exact one. A more offroad oriented one would be a better solution which is what I'm looking for. Just havent found it yet. Constructive criticism judging on aesthetics, practicality, economy and other things is part of the reason I made this post. Obviously a contractors rack wasnt the best solution, I'm just throwing it out for ideas. And I personally dont like the sound of welding a roof rack onto a roll bar either.

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I store my spare on the side of my house. I can't use it as I went to a larger sized tire.

I did mount my on board air setup in the spare tire location. I carry tire plugs and my AAA card to hopefully get me out of most flat tire situations.
AAA wont be able to help if there's a puncture when you're way out off-roading. I'm looking to keep a full size "spare" aka, a 5th tire in the rotation to swap out if needed.

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I've done some research and have decided to go with a Wilco carrier for the back (Hitchgate? Solo - WilcoOffroad.comWilcoOffroad.com) probably the "Solo" shown in the link but maybe the "Max"; I haven't finished planning things yet but definitely don't want to use up valuable bed space for spare wheel storage. I'm planning to go with a cage style rear with side mounted storage, most likely a Leitner Designs system (CHEVROLET). I need space for a second battery and air compressor; I haven't worked out the plan yet but most likely I'll install the deep cycle, house battery at the front right or left of the truck bed and connect it to auxiliaries through an SPod system (4x4 SPOD Since 2005 - The ORIGINAL JEEP Over The Windshield Switch Console - Jeep Power Distribution System) and charge it using an isolator.
Thanks for the detailed response. My problem with the hitch gate is the departure angle. Looks like it sticks out pretty far from the hitch which is already lower than the bumper. As for the 2nd battery, Is there not anywhere to put it in the engine bay? Say relocate the coolant reservoir and mount it there? Any kits for that if anyone has seen any?

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- Current Mods: Air Dam Delete; WeatherTech floor liners; LED Bed-Lighting Mod;30" double row Xprite light bar;

Build Thread: http://coloradofans.com/forums/265-2...ml#post4084673
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post #13 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-23-2016, 10:46 AM
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...



AAA wont be able to help if there's a puncture when you're way out off-roading. I'm looking to keep a full size "spare" aka, a 5th tire in the rotation to swap out if needed.



Thanks for the detailed response. My problem with the hitch gate is the departure angle. Looks like it sticks out pretty far from the hitch which is already lower than the bumper. As for the 2nd battery, Is there not anywhere to put it in the engine bay? Say relocate the coolant reservoir and mount it there? Any kits for that if anyone has seen any?
One of my biggest complaints is if you are going offroad or towing a trailer, you need a FS spare. Period. With all of the arguments about is the Ridgeline a real truck, my thoughts have always been if you can't get a FS spare from the factory, the manufacturer ain't serious about making trucks.

Have you read this thread on "dual batteries" from a while back? Not sure it answers anything, but perhaps some of the posters there have some updates?

Dual Battery Build | Planning Stage

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post #14 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-23-2016, 09:55 PM
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Hi Maxwell: take a look at the detailed pics of a Hitchgate and you will see that the departure angle isn't that bad; I guess a little easier for me to say with a 5.5" lift. Here's one of a Taco (I think) with a similar lift and tire size to my truck. Looks like loads of room at the back to me.

I need a better look in the engine bay with respect to a house battery (only had my truck a few weeks). I doubt there will be any kits out there specific to the Colorado/Canyon; there's almost zero aftermarket stuff for this truck. I was looking at the stuff for the Holden Colorado (Aussie version); the truck's not exactly the same but there are Holden Colorado goodies down under. I may investigate this further.

I had considered putting my air system in the spare wheel cavity but decided to go a different route to keep it all clean and dry. I need someone to make a plastic water tank the exact dimensions of the 33" spare wheel complete with a hole in the middle so that it can be pulled up into the cavity using the spare wheel gear; a perfect place for a water tank.
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post #15 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-24-2016, 09:30 AM
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I added a second battery and battery isolater under the hood, between the air box and the headlight. To make this battery fit the rubber pads needed to be removed from the air box, the mount trimmed on the air box, horns relocated, and one wiring harness moved higher.

As for the alternator charging both batteries it isn't the same as most older vehicles. GM has the alternator setup so it doesn't put out full power unless it's needed. Most of the time driving around town the battery voltage is low (well below 14), if heated seats, a/c, defroster, or headlights are turned on then it will increase the alternator output. Vehicle speed is also a factor in controlling the voltage for some reason.

From what I have noticed is that my second battery won't really charge unless I am driving on the highway, this is fine for me.



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post #16 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-24-2016, 12:01 PM Thread Starter
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Hi Maxwell: take a look at the detailed pics of a Hitchgate and you will see that the departure angle isn't that bad; I guess a little easier for me to say with a 5.5" lift. Here's one of a Taco (I think) with a similar lift and tire size to my truck. Looks like loads of room at the back to me.

I need a better look in the engine bay with respect to a house battery (only had my truck a few weeks). I doubt there will be any kits out there specific to the Colorado/Canyon; there's almost zero aftermarket stuff for this truck. I was looking at the stuff for the Holden Colorado (Aussie version); the truck's not exactly the same but there are Holden Colorado goodies down under. I may investigate this further.

I had considered putting my air system in the spare wheel cavity but decided to go a different route to keep it all clean and dry. I need someone to make a plastic water tank the exact dimensions of the 33" spare wheel complete with a hole in the middle so that it can be pulled up into the cavity using the spare wheel gear; a perfect place for a water tank.
Okay thats not as bad as I thought it was. Thanks for the suggestion, might be what I go with if I cant get a roof rack system going. Another problem I noticed is the rear view camera being obstructed by the tire.

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I added a second battery and battery isolater under the hood, between the air box and the headlight. To make this battery fit the rubber pads needed to be removed from the air box, the mount trimmed on the air box, horns relocated, and one wiring harness moved higher.

As for the alternator charging both batteries it isn't the same as most older vehicles. GM has the alternator setup so it doesn't put out full power unless it's needed. Most of the time driving around town the battery voltage is low (well below 14), if heated seats, a/c, defroster, or headlights are turned on then it will increase the alternator output. Vehicle speed is also a factor in controlling the voltage for some reason.

From what I have noticed is that my second battery won't really charge unless I am driving on the highway, this is fine for me.



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Awesome. thanks for the detailed response.

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- Current Mods: Air Dam Delete; WeatherTech floor liners; LED Bed-Lighting Mod;30" double row Xprite light bar;

Build Thread: http://coloradofans.com/forums/265-2...ml#post4084673
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post #17 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-24-2016, 02:09 PM
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Also found these pictures long time ago and saved them just in case I found the need to relocate the spare too. The tire can be swung up and locked or strapped in the vertical position allowing my motorbike to still get in the box. I would also change it a bit so it is secured when down too, the original guy didn't and I would think it might lift then drop going over speed bumps and eventually pound a hole in the bottom of the bed.
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File Type: jpg tire mount up.jpg (32.6 KB, 139 views)
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post #18 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-24-2016, 08:13 PM
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Try running in tow/haul mode and see if second battery charges better.

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post #19 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-26-2016, 02:36 AM
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Colt200: what size and type of secondary battery did you install? A while back, I was looking at a house battery for another truck and looked into different sizes and shapes. I think it was Interstate that made a range of different shapes/sizes. I have also been looking into portable house battery systems (Products ? Ark Portable Power LibertyPak Big GennyTM - SimpliPhi PowerSimpliPhi Power) as an alternative to a built-in one.

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post #20 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-26-2016, 05:22 AM
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1. You need to decide what you are going to power with that second battery. If it is not starting the vehicle then you want to go to a "deep cycle" battery and not a starting battery type that you are use to. If it has a CCA (Cold Cranking Amp) rating then it is a starting battery. If it has an amp hour rating then it is deep cycle. Some manufacturers make one that is rated for both.

2. Then decide how much storage is needed. 100 amp hour, 200 amp, etc.

3. Once you have decided on the appropriate size (capacity) then you need to decide where the actual load will be located. If it is something in the rear, then a battery mounted in the bed would be good. If it is a front mounted plow or something then mounting under the hood is more appropriate. You are trying to keep the battery as close as practical to minimize the voltage drop to the load.

4. Now you need to decide how to charge it. First a larger alternator is not going to charge your battery any faster. Most batteries will take a high charge only for the first 2 or 3 minutes and after that will drop of to less than 30 amps. As the battery gets closer to full charge the rate of charge will go down even lower. Fully charged it will draw about 2 amps.

5. Attaching the battery to the charging system is always a question. You never want to just attach it in parallel. If you do, you stand the chance of one battery blowing the other battery apart in the case of a short internal to one of them. This happens occasionally, but not frequently. It sure makes a mess and a lot of noise. Also when two batteries are in parallel the weaker battery of the two will discharge the stronger one until they are equal.

6. Attaching to the charging system while isolating the two batteries can be done in several ways:

6a. An isolator. This is basically just 2 very large diodes mounted in a large heat sink. This is used all the time in older multi-battery motorhomes. It's drawback is that it drops the charging voltage by .7 volts. They used an alternator remote sense feature on older alternators to make the alternator raise the charging voltage .7 volts to make up for the loss. I have never used an isolator with a computer controlled alternator like ours, but is might work.

6b. A combiner. This is similar in function to an isolator but does not have a .7 volt loss. This is also used frequently in motor homes and marine applications.

6c. A simple high current relay with a 30 to 50 amp circuit breaker. The relay is controlled by the ignition and is energized only when the ignition switch is on. If this is used it is imperative that the Circuit Breaker be installed to prevent the explosion potential mentioned in item 5 above.

That is enough to get you started.

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