Lots of threads on upgrades floating around here, some upgrading bose and some upgrading non bose. Bose only pushes low range to the front door speakers so keep that in mind.


I kept factory bose head unit and swapped door and center dash speakers, added 2 amps and a sub, currently trying out a different box to see if it can replace my larger vented box.

 

I guess I need to find someone on here who has a non Bose system and has added an amp and new speakers. If the factory head unit plays nice with aftermarket speakers I should be fine.

 

I'm not sure. I took it to two different shops to see if there was anything I missed. Neither could find anything. All wires were connected properly but the chimes were gone. All except the initial chime when you open the door and that was deafening. No blinker sounds. I even left the blinkers on for an extended period. I got the display warning but no noise.

After removing the 5 channel amp everything came back to normal so I kept it that way.

 

Looks like an aftermarket head unit might be in order.

 

I've been back and forth on this as well. My issue is that if I go aftermarket, things will get crazy and expensive for me fast (new alt, extra batteries, multi amps, dsp, 3 way active, etc). Tempting. One of the reasons I ended up buying a pick up is so that I couldn't go too crazy. I will say the stock setup is decently staged for a stock setup though.

Link to my previous explorer build here

Think there might be some pictures of my bagged malibu in there too...unsure if it shows the audio setup, but have an old video of that....here

 

Well I went all out with my system and I am glad I did!

 

That's awesome guys but way more than what I need! LOL. Great work though, kudos!

 

Heres my system build, little bit long of a read, Subthump somewhat copied the design after, seen alot more of these systems pop up. http://coloradofans.com/forums/201-...2nd-gen-electronics-audio-lighting/238745-2015-canyon-audio-system-upgrade.html

 

I kept HU, replaced all speakers with Infinities and JBLs, added compact sub and amp and LOC.....sounds awesome and truck looks the same....only lost space under rear seats due to sub/amp....

 

Any pics Morbius? I am in the same boat as the OP - the truck I want/found doesnt have the Bose and it cant be added they are saying.....so it looks like if I get this truck I will be adding my own system.

I am an audiophile so SQ is paramount to me.

Anyone else have any tips on how to put in a premium system? Does the stock HU play nice with after market amps/systems?

 

So I do have the BOSE, after all upgrades interior look of the truck has not changed at all. I did have to enlarge front side dash speaker holes, but once dash trim was back in place, can't tell there are much larger (and better) speakers. I did lose room under rear seats. Here's pics (sorry for glare). The first is my LOC (line output converter) AudioControl LCQ-1 with equalizer. The LOC is mounted behind rear seat on driver's side. The LOC is running all four door speakers using stock BOSE amp outputs. Outputs from my LOC run to Blaupunkt 600W amp which powers all four door speakers. Next pic is under seat showing Blaupunkt amp and Kicker compact sub. As you can see I lost all storage room under seats...Kicker amp is fed from stock BOSE amp outputs which were originally driving both front door speakers....

Attached list of what I installed...

 

I have 2 10s under the seat, arc audio xd 6ch, arc audio xd1100.1, mini-dsp processor, and a hybrid audio 3way active frontstage.

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Fantastic setup- must sound like heaven in that truck

 

Picking up my new 2016 Colorado today, as an AVID Audiophile, I will be making changes asap to the stock system. I went without the Bose due to all the mot so impressive reviews I have seem, the fact it has a center channel etc and seems to be generally harder to improve than a stock system.

My plan is to:

1) Install some JL C2-350x's in place of the stock tweeter location: C2-350x - Car Audio - Evolution® - C2 - Coaxial Systems - JL Audio
2) Replace the lower 6x9 location with a decent well made 6.5" driver. As I understand it, the front lower speaker is already crossed over and only getting lower freq's correct?
3) Replace the back speakers with some decent 6.5" coax's like mid/high end JBL's/Focal

I know the stock HU doesnt push a lot of watts, but I like SQ/SPL, so the above should do nicely.

Nest step would be to put in a Kicker 11HS8.

From there I would have to decide if I wanted to go full blow amp's and DSP since the POS stock radio doesnt have any preouts (jerks).

Would like some opinions on my thoughts above on #1-3.

 

I always recommend separate amps and processing when possible and if budget allows. However, I'm an Audiophile and I've never been able to just keep things simple. Also, the stock radio has a pretty decent flat signal and has all the USB inputs and bluetooth options you'd ever need.

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Does anyone have any advise on making XM radio sound any better?? XM sounds like they are streaming at like 50 Kbps, vs iTunes quality of 256Kbps. I would pay more for better quality audio but that's not an option :/. Does anyone know if a DAC(digital to analog converter) would help xm sound smoother? Or is a DAC exists for your car/truck.


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My stereo sounds pretty good playing xm with all the added equipment but it's still nowhere near cd/320kbps quality. I don't think there's much you can do about it.

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Yeah XM/Sirius is def crap quality signal, it sounds better in my truck than my wifes 2011 honda van. It sounds straight up like it is coming out of a soup can in her car.

Beer - I am with ya, I just figured since they are already running the system as a component type system, maybe some better quality components would sound much better than stock. I played with mine tonight, and I was really suprised how much the front door speakers thump. Was suprised......back speakers - wow......its true what everyone was saying about them not being able to be heard.

 

Yeah it sounds awesome! Still have a little more tuning to do and debating if I want to switch out the tweeters possibly for something different. The vehicle is so solid though, unlike my 2015 wrx that I had. I love that i have no rattles and that's with minimal sound deadening.

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Beer - how do you like that box from subthump? Does is sound decent with the 10's? Do you find it lacking in any way? I'm either getting this box or the single 10 but I dont know if one 10 will be enough. I dont need to turn heads, I just want to hear it and the 8" I have now, with the new headunit, gets lost when I turn it up.

 

After my subs broke in and after adding polyfill it really opened up. I'm really happy with the dual sub box, although I did have to modify it a bit to make my subs fit.

The cabin keeps sub bass in really well so you probably don't need two 10s and I'm sure you can get away with a single 10 but I enjoy decent bass. Running 8s sealed I think you'd really be missing out on some low end, you might as well go with the 10 or dual 10s.

I had to mod it a bit so the subs would fit.

The subs I purchased: http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-ls10-44-10-low-profile-subwoofer-dual-4-ohm--295-251

Thanks for the advice. I went ahead and changed out the head unit. Upgraded to the Kenwood Excelon DNN992HD. Used the PAC-GM51 interface. All chimes were retained and I have my amp connected through the head unit now. Man, what a difference!

Nice, I'm sure the signal is a lot cleaner with the kenwood.

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My old sub setup was a JL 10W6 with a 500w amp in it in my Dodge 2500 Quad Cab........missing it already lol......

Had CDT Audio Braxials and a JL 450/4. Sounded like heaven!

The 10w6 was between my 2 front seats in a 1cu/ft stealth box. It rumbled.

I dont think I can get a 10" anywhere in this truck though lol!!!!!

 

Did you read all of the posts in this thread?

 

Does anyone know what Freqs the stock HU (non bose) sends to the door speakers and the dash speakers? Ie: whats the cutoff/crossover at?

Back speakers get full range but no power yes?

 

So since there are some guys in here that have done it, what would I need to tap into to just add a sub under the rear seat? Ive always owned older vehicles so to me the non bose system my truck has sounds great lol. I just want to add a little more bass to it. I will probably go with a single 8 inch, possibly a 10. But im not sure what to run the amp to since the stock reciever has no outputs on it.

 

So, for those looking for subwoofer solutions, heres another alternative.

JL Audio ACP108LG-W3v3 MicroSub+? 250-watt 8" powered subwoofer at Crutchfield.com

I recently discovered this little gem at a local shop. Its ported, NOT a shallow 8" sub (its an actual 8W3v3) and it has a 250w RMS D-class amp. Local guy dropped the price to $400 and since I had the wires already in place installation was a snap. If I had a quality mic I'd provide some samples but I can tell you it does not disappoint. and it pretty much fits like the kicker hideaway/fosgate ps-8 so you can keep your truck looking stock inside.

 

Those powered subs sometimes are really good. I sold a whole amp and sub setup for kicker powered sub in my jeep so I had more room and it actually had some good bass. This is probably the route id end up going in my truck to save space. How did you tie it into the factory system?

 

I've completely abandoned the factory system. I didn't have the Bose system so I ended up replacing everything. Kenwood DNN992HD head unit. Sundown Audio 2.75" speakers up by the window. I have Pioneer 6x9s in the front and 6.5s in the rear door and the JL Audio sub under the seat.

About the JL Audio...the port is right at the end so I ended up pushing that out of the plastic under the seat so the bass from the port enters the cab and not the cavity under the seat. I did have to trim the plastic but you can barely tell its there. To do this I had to use 2 washers under the bar the seat rest on. I cut the carpet under the box and took it out. I took off the speaker grill from the 8W3v3 and it slide right under. It sounds amazing. Much more productive than anything I've tried under there so far and Im happy enough with it that I wont be looking for another replacement. The gain on the amp is at half and I have the bass on the head unit at 0. It is capable of being far louder for those of you who want more. I was actually shocked when they turned it on and had it all adjusted the way they thought I would want it. I was inside and heard it loud and clear. A worthwhile product. I think I'm going to raise the entire rear seat up about 3/8's of an inch. The anchors for the rear seat can be bent up so the seat will still click in the rear.

 

m0rhg - I'm going to pull the trigger on the same JL box, are you still happy with it and the way you have it installed? Does the seat rest on the box or is the seat being supported by the cross bar?


Thanks for your input!

 

I got rid of the seats and goofy anchor points in my extended cab an installed this: Amazon.com : 2) New Kenwood KFC-W110S 10" 1400W Car Subwoofers + KAC-5206 400W Amp + Amp Kit : Car Electronics
I built a platform that sits on top of the seat frame with two 17" x 6" (roughly) boxes that sit on top. I'll post a pic if someone wants. I used the line sense input with the rear speakers to the amp. After reading on this site that the BASS comes through the front door speakers I think I may change my inputs. The system sounds OK but then again for bump I am relying on the filters in the amp to produce lows from the midrange speakers I'm tied into.

 

That little JL 8" should blow the doors off of pretty much anything else out there now in that size/premade......makes me miss my JL 10w6 with 500w on it......anyone have any idea how to stealth install one of those in a crew cab yet????

Has anyone figured out why on the non bose systems, the rear door speakers get 0 sound unless you zone it 90% rear??????????

Love the front speakers/setup/crossover points but rears sound non existant?!?

 

My only thought would be that the front is over-powering if you sit up there. You have full range with the speakers by the windows and the bass from the door. I only say this because, after installing an aftermarket head unit, those rear door speakers really came to life. Those rears are set at 80hz, the 6x9's at 60hz, the Sundowns have a cap on them so probably higher than 100hz and the sub gets everything else. It really made a huge difference.

 

Ok so you are saying that the factory non bose 8" unit is set up as follows:

- Dash speakers are full range from 80hz and up
- Front door 6x9's only get <60hz
- Rear 6.5" speakers get only <80hz

Is that correct?

So if you swapped out the rear speakers for a good set of Co-Ax speakers - it would make 0 difference as they are only getting 80hz and below?

 

Here are a few. I didnt feel like unbolting the plastic and all that...again, but its pretty easy to figure out. When you fold up the seats you'll see the rubber stops the seats rest on. In those are the bolts you'll need to remove. There are two, one on each side, up close to the rear of the cab on the floor. Cant miss them. You'll see where the bar bolts down with two star bolts, I think these are size 6. Don't quote me on that though. Remove those, add the two washers on each side, put the bar back down and bolts back in. I want to say I used 3/8's washers. You'll see how much clearance you'll need in the pic though. Match that and you'll be ok.

0801 is the green/black wire you'll need to tap into if you're using the PAC module and want to retain steering wheel controls. If you're even changing the head unit. If not, disregard. 0802 is the cut out around the top of the sub I was talking about so the excursion of the woofer doesnt force it into the plastic and tear it. 0805 is a picture of where the edge of the box sites. You can see its flush with the drop that becomes the foot space for your passengers back there. 0807 is a picture of how tight I cut the carpet to fit the box in. Yes, it is cut. The box is sitting on the sheet metal under the carpet. 0804 is how the wires were run. I pulled the carpet along the doors, ran the wires back underneath and cut a slit in the carpet under the bar so the plastic would hide it. Standard stuff. 0806 shows the port sitting outside of the plastic to get the best sound.

Its not very detailed, I know, but I didnt take pictures of the process. I should have just for this reason. If you get stuck just let me know and I can pull my stuff up to show you what I did.

 

0801 is the green/black wire you'll need to tap into if you're using the PAC module and want to retain steering wheel controls. If you're even changing the head unit..

WHOA....THATS what I have been waiting/looking for. So, you DID in fact ties in the the green black and, you dropped the steering wheel to get to that harness !!!! After repeated calls to both PAC and Crutchfields, they insisted that the picture they had for the instructions was correct.....where yours clearly shows its on the top of the steering wheel column and not like the Silverado they show in their stock photo.

Been going crazy not having my SWCs.....but I'll finally be hooking them up this weekend. Any tips on lowering the column or is it cut and dry like any standard column?

PS.....you ARE the MAN !!! :grin2: