How to swap steering wheel audio control positions - Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-11-2016, 08:13 PM Thread Starter
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How to swap steering wheel audio control positions

Hi All-

I'd like to swap the steering wheel audio controls, the ones on the back of the steering wheel. ie I'd like volume control on the left and track control on the right.

I'm usually pretty good with wiring when I'm designing the circuit but I get lost reading schematics really easily and I wasn't able to grasp what's going where in the Electrical Upfitter manual. So I opened the steering wheel hoping I could just reroute the wiring to the opposite sides but unfortunately that wont work as it's too short.

Can anyone tell me or help me find a common connector for these controls where I could achieve the same result by swapping the pins (inputs) to the opposite locations so the radio just thinks I'm pressing the opposite buttons?

TIA
For any help
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-11-2016, 09:35 PM
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Following this post because I've been wanting to do the same thing.
Clif
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-11-2016, 09:57 PM
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It won't be simple. The board for all the buttons works like a keyboard. It is basically digital signals sent over 1 pair of wires. Each button sends a different voltage to the HMI module. If each button has its own individual board and a parallel data line, then you could extend the data lines and swap them on the buttons. Each and every function on the buttons would then be reversed (possibly).

If you don't get it right, you will get a U code and it will stop all comm from the steering wheel to the module. Wiring diagrams usually don't show enough internal details to help with modifications. You may have to buy a new steering wheel if you don't get it right.

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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-11-2016, 11:25 PM Thread Starter
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I think I found it.

Both sets of rear buttons tie into the same connector which has 4 pins for the 4 buttons. One each for Volume Up/Down and Track FWD/BK and then it looks like that same connector has a BUS wire that I'm assuming does the output to the deck.

I'm not sure where the translation happens for the system to know which buttons were pressed but I'm hoping its based on input location at that connector and it will be as easy as swapping their inputs. ie I'll swap the Track FWD and Volume Up wires and see if that moves the controls

Ill be giving this a shot tomorrow so we'll see how it goes. *fingers crossed*
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-12-2016, 12:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lqdchkn View Post
I think I found it.

Both sets of rear buttons tie into the same connector which has 4 pins for the 4 buttons. One each for Volume Up/Down and Track FWD/BK and then it looks like that same connector has a BUS wire that I'm assuming does the output to the deck.

I'm not sure where the translation happens for the system to know which buttons were pressed but I'm hoping its based on input location at that connector and it will be as easy as swapping their inputs. ie I'll swap the Track FWD and Volume Up wires and see if that moves the controls

Ill be giving this a shot tomorrow so we'll see how it goes. *fingers crossed*
Will this void your warranty?

LOL

Totally rhetorical.
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-12-2016, 12:43 AM Thread Starter
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Will this void your warranty?

LOL

Totally rhetorical.
LOL


I guess technically I suppose it could if anything goes haywire like savagebob speculates it could

Let's hope not though
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-12-2016, 01:10 AM
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LOL


I guess technically I suppose it could if anything goes haywire like savagebob speculates it could

Let's hope not though
Just disconnect it from the truck harness and check the pins that you think you need to swap with an ohm meter. You will get different resistance values from each button push. Record the values and the related function, then move the wires to the opposite buttons and test again for verification.
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-12-2016, 02:18 PM
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I'm not sure if its the lesser than 2 evils, but I do know that the PAC module I used allows reprogramming of all the SWC buttons.

RP5-GM51

You would still be cutting into the factory wires but, it would make it easier to go back and forth and change things in the future. Just a thought.

http://www.pac-audio.com/PACProductD...ons_090115.pdf

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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-12-2016, 02:39 PM Thread Starter
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I can report success.

I'll write up the details when I get on a real computer.
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-12-2016, 05:22 PM Thread Starter
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So here is the wiring pin outs from the Upfitter electrical manual



From this you can see it's pins 7,8,9,10 on the behind the right side connector (behind the DIC controls) that we want to rearrange to flip flop the volume and track controls from right to left.

What I noticed when I was checking the buttons was that my OEM volume control wiring (stock volume control buttons) was ordered different than listed, Grey-brown is listed as volume down but it was volume up and Red was listed as volume up but it was volume down. So I'd recommend that you test your connector also to make sure you are swapping the pins based on as they are operating and not just as the manual lists. The manual listing that location 7,8,9 and 10 is correct.

What I did was connect a meter to the ground PIN 6 on the wiring side and the press the volume up and verify what wire/connector location that was working at, then did the same to locate the wire/location for the track up and then swapped the wires. Then did the same for volume down/track down wires.

You will need to remove your airbag from the steering wheel but you don't have to disconnect it completely- be sure to disconnect your NEG battery terminal for at least 20min before working around the airbag, just in case.

Then pop out the rear buttons on each side, you can leave the buttons connected. Behind each button is a torx screw and a metal plate. Remove the screw and plate on each side.


Then gently pry out on the front buttons and trim that goes around the lower front of the steering wheel below the airbag. It will feel tight and the trim has "location" pins that grip onto the leather you'll need to use force but there's nothing like pop clips holding it in, it's just really snug. There are connectors behind both front side controls. It's easier to disconnect both sides and remove the front trim completely to work, the locking tabs for each connector is at the bottom of each connector.

Here's a how each side of the connector and wiring looked when I was done.




What made it operate correctly for me was the following pin assignments
7 - yellow-red
8 - yellow-white
9 - grey-brown
10 - red

****PLEASE NOTE**** test your own wiring operation as my truck may have just been weird. lol
Also, I think it goes without saying on these boards/tutorials but - I take no responsibility for you mucking your controls up


Sorry I didn't take more pic of disassembly but I was so stoked to tidy things up and try it out that I didn't even think about it, lol.

Last edited by lqdchkn; 03-12-2016 at 05:48 PM.
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-12-2016, 07:57 PM
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You get 2 thumbs up for being the guinea pig. And, well done indeed. =)
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-12-2016, 08:53 PM
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Now when the heated steering wheel from the denali comes out I'll have look you guys up.
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-12-2016, 09:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lqdchkn View Post
I can report success.

I'll write up the details when I get on a real computer.
Nice work. I knew you would figure it out.
I completely rewired a Porsche 928S that suffered an interior fire. It was a 26,000 dollar warranty claim in 1986. During that process (working with only engineering drawings) I discovered and documented 4 blatant mistakes in the diagrams. All the cars I checked were wired correctly, just the diagrams were incorrect.

Your truck is probably wired the same as all the others
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-12-2016, 09:34 PM
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Now when the heated steering wheel from the denali comes out I'll have look you guys up.
That would be a little more difficult. Heaters will need large gauge wiring that won't be in trucks without the feature. You could always do the NASCAR routine with the coiled cord that twists around the steering column when you turn.
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