Ambient Light Sensor Override (Take Your Brightness Control Back) - Page 3 - Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon
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post #41 of 54 (permalink) Old 03-12-2017, 02:23 PM
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2 seconds and i rotate the dash dimmer to full bright or dim it back at night
much cheaper and no aggravation

turning on wipers will also activate headlamps

yes dash lights brightness and headlights are controlled by same sensor. headlights on =dim dash lights
manually turning off actually only affects DRL

PAGE 142 manual
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post #42 of 54 (permalink) Old 03-12-2017, 04:07 PM Thread Starter
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2 seconds and i rotate the dash dimmer to full bright or dim it back at night
much cheaper and no aggravation

turning on wipers will also activate headlamps

yes dash lights brightness and headlights are controlled by same sensor. headlights on =dim dash lights
manually turning off actually only affects DRL

PAGE 142 manual
Glad you read the manual but that's not the only sensor in play for the headlights but it is for the interior brightness. The Auto dimming rear view mirror is also accounted for, for the headlights, but you knew that too right? Additionally, rolling the brightness knob to "full bright" only affects brightness when dimmed and that max level is still only 50% of the real Daytime brightness. It does nothing when in full daytime bright mode. But if youre happy having to fuss with the knob constantly to barely see, then have at it. So carry on how you like.

Regardless this thread is meant to be a "How To" not a debate on whether anyone thinks it's needed or not. Or why other vehicle manufacturers have sensitivity settings and we dont. So I'm done feeding the trolls.

You'll either learn there is a need for this for yourself or you wont. When you figure it out this instruction will be here for you.
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post #43 of 54 (permalink) Old 03-12-2017, 09:57 PM
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I don't have a pry tool set, I was just using a plastic wheel weight removal tool, which seemed like it would do the job. Didn't damage anything other part of the dash at least, but I'll look for a pry set. Thnx for the encouragement, I'll give it a go here again in the next couple days.
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post #44 of 54 (permalink) Old 03-13-2017, 02:14 AM
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So I have a question for those that have installed the switch. Can any of you tell me the voltage or amperage that runs on that wire you are switching? I need two readings if you would be so kind. One in broad sunlight and one in complete darkness.

Please use a fluke type meter if possible. Thanks!

Rig: 16' Colly LT 4x4 2.8D, CCSB, G80, Bose, etc

Built list: Bak revolver x2, premium Line-X, rigid b/up lights cut & mounted in bumper, kn insert air fltr, zroadz fog plate w/rigid spots & floods, d-max tuner, matte blk badges and custom diesel badges, bilstien 5100 RHA 2" lift with rear 1" gm lift blks, 275/65-18 TA ko2, 2" wheel spacers (big rub @ full steer, w/o spacers), pedal cmdr

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post #45 of 54 (permalink) Old 03-13-2017, 10:55 AM Thread Starter
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So I have a question for those that have installed the switch. Can any of you tell me the voltage or amperage that runs on that wire you are switching? I need two readings if you would be so kind. One in broad sunlight and one in complete darkness.

Please use a fluke type meter if possible. Thanks!
I'm curious, what are you trying to accomplish?
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post #46 of 54 (permalink) Old 03-13-2017, 03:47 PM
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I'm curious, what are you trying to accomplish?
possible inline digital rheostat, either at that line or somewhere else... my VW golf has standard headlights and for me to get autos, they have an aftermarket unit that you can install that uses a rheostat and external light sensor.

Just brainstorming and trying to find a solution since we dont have access to the BCM... and GM wont do anything about it.

Rig: 16' Colly LT 4x4 2.8D, CCSB, G80, Bose, etc

Built list: Bak revolver x2, premium Line-X, rigid b/up lights cut & mounted in bumper, kn insert air fltr, zroadz fog plate w/rigid spots & floods, d-max tuner, matte blk badges and custom diesel badges, bilstien 5100 RHA 2" lift with rear 1" gm lift blks, 275/65-18 TA ko2, 2" wheel spacers (big rub @ full steer, w/o spacers), pedal cmdr

To/do: AFE intake, puddle leds, Anzo tails, Zone 1.5" body lft

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post #47 of 54 (permalink) Old 03-13-2017, 04:30 PM Thread Starter
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possible inline digital rheostat, either at that line or somewhere else... my VW golf has standard headlights and for me to get autos, they have an aftermarket unit that you can install that uses a rheostat and external light sensor.

Just brainstorming and trying to find a solution since we dont have access to the BCM... and GM wont do anything about it.
I'm not sure I see the benefit in that. It sounds like your thinking you could use the rheostat to control the sensitivity but that wouldn't work as you would just be controlling the voltage max limit, not actually changing the threshold where the truck decides to switch over.

ie. Lets say the voltage in is between 0-5V. 0 being full bright and 5 being full dark, with the BCM making the change over at >3V. If you set the rheostat anywhere below 3V if will always stay full bright, same as opening the switch like I'm doing. If you set your rheostat anywhere above the 3V limit you will still get all values on the circuit below it's set point so there will still be a switching decision for the BCM to make.

It's the switching decision that needs to get taken out of knowing if it's currently dark or not, so you'd still need to be turning your knob up and down all the time. The switch is easier, it's either full bright (open circuit) or it's let the truck decide (closed circuit). So far the truck is never wrong in knowing when it should be dark, it's just wrong in know if it's actually still light; if ya know what I'm saying
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post #48 of 54 (permalink) Old 03-13-2017, 06:09 PM
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I'm not sure I see the benefit in that. It sounds like your thinking you could use the rheostat to control the sensitivity but that wouldn't work as you would just be controlling the voltage max limit, not actually changing the threshold where the truck decides to switch over.

ie. Lets say the voltage in is between 0-5V. 0 being full bright and 5 being full dark, with the BCM making the change over at >3V. If you set the rheostat anywhere below 3V if will always stay full bright, same as opening the switch like I'm doing. If you set your rheostat anywhere above the 3V limit you will still get all values on the circuit below it's set point so there will still be a switching decision for the BCM to make.

It's the switching decision that needs to get taken out of knowing if it's currently dark or not, so you'd still need to be turning your knob up and down all the time. The switch is easier, it's either full bright (open circuit) or it's let the truck decide (closed circuit). So far the truck is never wrong in knowing when it should be dark, it's just wrong in know if it's actually still light; if ya know what I'm saying
so... the sensor sends either 0v or 5v? it doesn't build to a voltage and then trip the BCM at a certain point? My query is if the sensor just sends 5v in constant light, then as it starts to darken it sends, 4.5v, 4v, 3.5v, then the trigger to "lights on" is (hypothetically) @ 3v, the BCM would then turn on the lights. so... if one were to add 1.5v to the down stream wire, whatever the sensor sends would reduce the auto lights on function.

however, if its the sensor controlling it either at 0 or 5v respectively ... then well... thats the game. lol

Rig: 16' Colly LT 4x4 2.8D, CCSB, G80, Bose, etc

Built list: Bak revolver x2, premium Line-X, rigid b/up lights cut & mounted in bumper, kn insert air fltr, zroadz fog plate w/rigid spots & floods, d-max tuner, matte blk badges and custom diesel badges, bilstien 5100 RHA 2" lift with rear 1" gm lift blks, 275/65-18 TA ko2, 2" wheel spacers (big rub @ full steer, w/o spacers), pedal cmdr

To/do: AFE intake, puddle leds, Anzo tails, Zone 1.5" body lft

Sponsors: Virginia Line-X (Ant).
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post #49 of 54 (permalink) Old 03-13-2017, 06:14 PM Thread Starter
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so... the sensor sends either 0v or 5v? it doesn't build to a voltage and then trip the BCM at a certain point? My query is if the sensor just sends 5v in constant light, then as it starts to darken it sends, 4.5v, 4v, 3.5v, then the trigger to "lights on" is (hypothetically) @ 3v, the BCM would then turn on the lights. so... if one were to add 1.5v to the down stream wire, whatever the sensor sends would reduce the auto lights on function.

however, if its the sensor controlling it either at 0 or 5v respectively ... then well... thats the game. lol
No I'm sure its gradual like your thinking it is but where are you getting this extra voltage from to "boost" your input signal to the BCM?

A rheostat can only allow whatever voltage is coming through or decrease the voltage going through the circuit. It can't add, unless you have some tricky fancy "boosting" rheostat and give it a separate power supply.

Tapping and adding another circuit to boost this one via a fancy boosting rheostat, sounds way more complicated that using an "interrupt" switch, lol
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post #50 of 54 (permalink) Old 03-14-2017, 12:03 AM
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No I'm sure its gradual like your thinking it is but where are you getting this extra voltage from to "boost" your input signal to the BCM?

A rheostat can only allow whatever voltage is coming through or decrease the voltage going through the circuit. It can't add, unless you have some tricky fancy "boosting" rheostat and give it a separate power supply.

Tapping and adding another circuit to boost this one via a fancy boosting rheostat, sounds way more complicated that using an "interrupt" switch, lol
If it is in fact building, then a pot (potentiometer) could be used with a digital (limited) 5v external source. It would aliviate you from having to flip a switch or use the dimmer. Because once you find where you like your lights to come on, you could set it and forget it. I don't know... just an idea. But I'd need the actual voltages and all.

Rig: 16' Colly LT 4x4 2.8D, CCSB, G80, Bose, etc

Built list: Bak revolver x2, premium Line-X, rigid b/up lights cut & mounted in bumper, kn insert air fltr, zroadz fog plate w/rigid spots & floods, d-max tuner, matte blk badges and custom diesel badges, bilstien 5100 RHA 2" lift with rear 1" gm lift blks, 275/65-18 TA ko2, 2" wheel spacers (big rub @ full steer, w/o spacers), pedal cmdr

To/do: AFE intake, puddle leds, Anzo tails, Zone 1.5" body lft

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post #51 of 54 (permalink) Old 03-14-2017, 10:49 AM Thread Starter
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If it is in fact building, then a pot (potentiometer) could be used with a digital (limited) 5v external source. It would aliviate you from having to flip a switch or use the dimmer. Because once you find where you like your lights to come on, you could set it and forget it. I don't know... just an idea. But I'd need the actual voltages and all.
Yeah running an additional dedicated power seems more trouble than it's worth. Too easy to just flip the switch and flip is back when needed.

For what it's worth it stays in the closed (auto) position about 80% of the time or more. Its only around dusk and dawn they the shadows are long that I even seem to use it.
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post #52 of 54 (permalink) Old 03-14-2017, 11:28 AM
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I don't have a pry tool set, I was just using a plastic wheel weight removal tool, which seemed like it would do the job. Didn't damage anything other part of the dash at least, but I'll look for a pry set. Thnx for the encouragement, I'll give it a go here again in the next couple days.
Harbor freight has a nice cheap set of plastic pry bars. 5 Piece Auto Trim and Molding Tool Set
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post #53 of 54 (permalink) Old 03-15-2017, 05:21 PM
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Glad you read the manual but that's not the only sensor in play for the headlights but it is for the interior brightness. The Auto dimming rear view mirror is also accounted for, for the headlights, but you knew that too right? Additionally, rolling the brightness knob to "full bright" only affects brightness when dimmed and that max level is still only 50% of the real Daytime brightness. It does nothing when in full daytime bright mode. But if youre happy having to fuss with the knob constantly to barely see, then have at it. So carry on how you like.

Regardless this thread is meant to be a "How To" not a debate on whether anyone thinks it's needed or not. Or why other vehicle manufacturers have sensitivity settings and we dont. So I'm done feeding the trolls.

You'll either learn there is a need for this for yourself or you wont. When you figure it out this instruction will be here for you.
your brightness dimmer must be different than mine or yours has issues full up is the same 100% either way day or night bright or dim
the auto-dimming mirror has a sensor on the back of the mirror facing forward calculating the ambient brightness but you knew that , right?
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post #54 of 54 (permalink) Old 03-15-2017, 06:33 PM Thread Starter
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your brightness dimmer must be different than mine or yours has issues full up is the same 100% either way day or night bright or dim
the auto-dimming mirror has a sensor on the back of the mirror facing forward calculating the ambient brightness but you knew that , right?
If your brightness knob effects your brightness in day mode then your not really getting into day mode and something is prolly wrong with your sensor. People have reported this issue. In day mode (full bright) the knob has no effect.

Actually the auto dimming mirror has sensors on front and back so it can evaluate front brightness vs rear brightness and decide if the headlights behind you are blinding the crap out of you or not and dim appropriately, but you knew that right?
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