How to: Remove/Replace Front strut 16' colorado (Bilstein 5100 RHA) - Page 2 - Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon
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post #21 of 28 (permalink) Old 04-16-2017, 07:01 PM
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Another How To gets lost in the shuffle.
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post #22 of 28 (permalink) Old 04-17-2017, 12:12 AM Thread Starter
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We need a genII how to section, with standards (a rubric of how to write them to follow). Consistency and organized. Who do we talk to?

Rig: 16' Colly LT 4x4 2.8D, CCSB, G80, Bose, etc

Built list: Bak revolver x2, premium Line-X, rigid b/up lights cut & mounted in bumper, kn insert air fltr, zroadz fog plate w/rigid spots & floods, d-max tuner, matte blk badges and custom diesel badges, bilstien 5100 RHA 2" lift with rear 1" gm lift blks, 275/65-18 TA ko2, 2" wheel spacers (big rub @ full steer, w/o spacers), pedal cmdr

To/do: AFE intake, puddle leds, Anzo tails, Zone 1.5" body lft

Sponsors: Virginia Line-X (Ant).
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post #23 of 28 (permalink) Old 04-17-2017, 05:06 PM
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They are wasaaaaaayyyy better than stock. I am very glad I waited!

5 stars!
I'm with SigArms and not just because I'm a fan of sigs.
These things are great, so much better than stock, I had my reservations but they're truly nice. Far better chassis control over everything I've come in contact with. There are a few bumps on the road that would just toss the truck around and would get a "woohoo" moment but now those same bumps result in silence because the truck is composed the entire time.

The added articulation is also nice :)
It's not jeep status but definitely better than before, I'll have to get back out to Hollister again to really check it out since I haven't been able to get any wheel lift with the stuff I've come across.



-mac
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post #24 of 28 (permalink) Old 04-17-2017, 05:18 PM
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Since you did all the work of taking pics and writing everything up I'll throw in an assist with all the torque specs so everything is handy in one place



Attached Images
File Type: png Front.PNG (36.5 KB, 212 views)
File Type: png Rear.PNG (20.4 KB, 212 views)
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post #25 of 28 (permalink) Old 04-28-2017, 02:28 AM
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The sway connections will be removed next, both must be removed, both can be removed with wheels on and may work better due to articulation from jacking.

The top nut for the sway mount is a 15mm socket, the bottom is a 13mm socket. The top is a nyloc nut and there will be no force on sway if done on ground first. Once loose, remove nut and set aside, pull sway spacer off bolt, remove bolt out from bottom. clean, set aside.



It may be necessary to loosen the mounts for the sway as well. these are two 10mm nuts, only loosen 3-4 turns.

Are you in CRT greens?

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post #26 of 28 (permalink) Old 04-28-2017, 02:33 AM
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They are wasaaaaaayyyy better than stock. I am very glad I waited!

5 stars!
You mean opposed to the eibach RHA?

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post #27 of 28 (permalink) Old 04-28-2017, 02:33 AM
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We need a genII how to section, with standards (a rubric of how to write them to follow). Consistency and organized. Who do we talk to?
@supermodulation is working on it last I heard

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post #28 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-11-2017, 12:05 AM Thread Starter
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Report back: put some miles on the billies and have to say, they are pretty nice. Good amount of lift and better ride. Deff recommend!

Rig: 16' Colly LT 4x4 2.8D, CCSB, G80, Bose, etc

Built list: Bak revolver x2, premium Line-X, rigid b/up lights cut & mounted in bumper, kn insert air fltr, zroadz fog plate w/rigid spots & floods, d-max tuner, matte blk badges and custom diesel badges, bilstien 5100 RHA 2" lift with rear 1" gm lift blks, 275/65-18 TA ko2, 2" wheel spacers (big rub @ full steer, w/o spacers), pedal cmdr

To/do: AFE intake, puddle leds, Anzo tails, Zone 1.5" body lft

Sponsors: Virginia Line-X (Ant).
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