Hard wiring a dash-cam to the Instrument Panel Fuse Box - Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 03:47 PM Thread Starter
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Hard wiring a dash-cam to the Instrument Panel Fuse Box

If you prefer an imgur tutorial, its the same pictures and description but click here. https://imgur.com/a/t95ia

Links to all products used in this tutorial:

The dash cam (Memory card not included. I've tried 64gb and that didnt work too well although some reviews say it does. Stick to a 32gb memory card):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Micro2 ATR Fuse tap 16 gauge wire w/ 15A fuse:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

12V to 5V power inverter mini USB cable: (Also 15 amps is WAYYY too much for powering just a dash cam. So swap it out with the smallest fuse you can find for whatever size fuses you have. For me I used a 5 amp which is still too much but better than 15 amps.)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Dual USB Car Charger for cigarette port to power the tablet:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Final picture first.


Before I had the power to my dash cam just hanging down to the center console and it was powered by the cigarette lighter. It didnt bother me too much and I drove with it like this for a little over a year. When I added the tablet (for off-road navigation), I wanted to power the tablet while the truck was on or off. Currently that cigarette lighter port was only on when the truck was on. On my truck to do that just requires moving a fuse from one spot to another. But that meant that the dash cam was going to always be on, and I didn't want that. So I hardwired it to the instrument panel fuse box located on the passenger side.


Another after pic


I started off using a cable I bought from amazon that converted the traditional 12v power from the fusebox to 5v and 3 amp max. Initially the cable wasnt long enough to get to the fuse box, so I cut off the ends of the existing cable that used the cigarette lighter and soldered that onto this cable. This tutorial isnt to teach you how to solder so I left that part out.

So this inverter was a bit large so I couldnt tuck it into the crevace but it fits just fine between the rear view mirror and the padding on the roof so thats where it stays.


Its relatively simple to get this wire tucked in. This picture here shows the top right corner of the windshield where the roof meets the A-frame. I used a small, but fat flathead screwdriver to carefully tuck it into the interior without scuffing, or scraping anything.


What the cable should look like after its been tucked.


After you've gotten it tucked in behind the plastic, you can start hiding it behind the weather stripping for the door. This is probably the simplest step.


What it looks like under the weather stripping.


Once you've reached the bottom, its time to break it out and back into the cab to get to the fuse box.


For this, you'll need a ground install. I used this 18-22 gauge wire terminator to put on a screw on the frame to hold the carpet/fusebox panel. The screw was just a little bit too large, so I had to cut it open so it could fit around it. You'll see in the next picture.


This is the screw that holds the carpet, and fuse box cover in place. Make sure to sand down any paint because if not, it wont hold a good ground and you'll not get steady power to your dash cam. I also put a washer ontop of this since the screw holding the carpet/fuse box cover doesnt directly push onto this ground. That way it will hold it against the frame better.


I forgot to take a picture of the add-a-circuit fuse tap, but this is it, installed and the ground is hiding behind the back of the carpet. For the 2016 colorado, fuse F29 is only hot when the truck is on. So thats the fuse I tapped into to power my dash cam.


All patched up. You can see the cable coming out of the weather stripping, but thats okay with me.
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2016 Black Colorado Z71 4x4

- Current Mods: Air Dam Delete; WeatherTech floor liners; LED Bed-Lighting Mod;30" double row Xprite light bar; Tablet setup for nav;
Hard-wired dash cam to fuse box;


Build Thread: http://coloradofans.com/forums/265-2...and-build.html

Last edited by maxwell_hau5_caffy; 04-21-2017 at 04:07 PM.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 06:44 PM
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Cool writeup. I found just tying into the rear view mirror power harness to be easier though. Saw the writeup on here too.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-23-2017, 06:56 PM
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Nice write-up. This will be helpful when I wire my radar detector. Thanks!
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-29-2017, 08:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evonschu View Post
Cool writeup. I found just tying into the rear view mirror power harness to be easier though. Saw the writeup on here too.
lol
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-30-2017, 09:49 AM
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Anyone know how to remove the passenger side grab handle? I loosened the two bolts and yanked on it for like 5 min and while it looked like it was coming off it hung on by a thread...felt like i was going to break it so i stopped...i was hoping to hardwire my dashcam to the fuse panel without going through the weatherstripping...took the one off on my 14 silverado the same way but had no problems with it like i am with this one....thanks for any help

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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-01-2017, 02:31 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evonschu View Post
Cool writeup. I found just tying into the rear view mirror power harness to be easier though. Saw the writeup on here too.
I didnt want to hack into the harness up there so I decided to go down to the fuse panel in the cab.

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Originally Posted by killerpaintman View Post
Anyone know how to remove the passenger side grab handle? I loosened the two bolts and yanked on it for like 5 min and while it looked like it was coming off it hung on by a thread...felt like i was going to break it so i stopped...i was hoping to hardwire my dashcam to the fuse panel without going through the weatherstripping...took the one off on my 14 silverado the same way but had no problems with it like i am with this one....thanks for any help

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Any reason your opposed to using the weather stripping to hide the wire?

To answer your question though, No I havent taken off the grab handle. I would think its just removing the 2 screws and pull but maybe theres another one hiding around somewhere.

2016 Black Colorado Z71 4x4

- Current Mods: Air Dam Delete; WeatherTech floor liners; LED Bed-Lighting Mod;30" double row Xprite light bar; Tablet setup for nav;
Hard-wired dash cam to fuse box;


Build Thread: http://coloradofans.com/forums/265-2...and-build.html
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-08-2017, 01:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxwell_hau5_caffy View Post
I didnt want to hack into the harness up there so I decided to go down to the fuse panel in the cab.



Any reason your opposed to using the weather stripping to hide the wire?

To answer your question though, No I havent taken off the grab handle. I would think its just removing the 2 screws and pull but maybe theres another one hiding around somewhere.

No need to waste time going through all of this. Amazon sells a little cable made for radar detectors that has flat pins you stick into the back of the rearview mirror connector. Its called a mirror tap. No cutting splicing or anything required to hook to the truck. The wiring then runs up with the mirror wiring into the headliner avoiding messing with the a-pillar and all of that.

Also for the guy trying to remove the a-pillar. I read somewhere you just remove the two screw then pull at the top until it pops off. It was on the interior section of this forum I believe.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-10-2017, 09:22 PM
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Is the mirror power always hot even when parked ? Garmin has a unit that can function when parked and provide value.

2017 Canyon Duramax Denali w/Alert Pkg
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 12:13 PM
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FYI : I mounted my dash cam in the same location as maxwell_hau5_caffy
I also have the same camera. Being retired, I do not drive every day. I began to notice that the rear view mirror would dim and then brighten up and dim again on a real bright sunny day as I drove. I was getting ready to call the dealer to have them check it out. Then I did some research and found in the Canyon Colorado Electrical Body Builder Manual ( it is list some place on this forum but I had it saved on my PC). On page 44 it says it uses two photocell sensors. One of those sensor is on the side of the mirror that faces the windshield. The dash cam was blocking light to that sensor causing the mirror to darken and then lighten while driving because it thought it was dark outside and the light hitting it on the mirror side told it that bright headlights were behind me and so it dimmed. "The front sensor is used to determine the exterior light conditions. With a low light condition detected and a high light condition from behind of the car, at the headlight sensor, the inside rearview mirror will automatically darken the face of the mirror."

I moved the dash cam and auto dimming mirror is now operating properly again.

2015 Canyon V6, CC, All Terrain,
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-17-2017, 06:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evonschu View Post
Cool writeup. I found just tying into the rear view mirror power harness to be easier though. Saw the writeup on here too.
Do you have the link? Right now I have my Camera running to a 12v power adapter in the front of the Truck, would lvoe to tap into the mirror to power my DashCam

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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-21-2017, 01:45 PM
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@maxwell_hau5_caffy do you find that it matters which way the add a fuse is oriented? I never worried about it in the past, but upon finding the attached diagram I did some continuity testing in the fuse box. The left prong is where power comes in (when facing the panel) so I added the add a fuse in the opposite orientation to what you have here. Take a look at the diagram.

IMG_1485.JPG
IMG_1484.jpg



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Last edited by Snowslide; 05-21-2017 at 07:05 PM.
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-21-2017, 02:32 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowslide View Post
@maxwell_hau5_caffy do you find that it matters which way the add a fuse is oriented? I never worried about it in the past, but upon finding the attached diagram I did some continuity testing in the fuse box. The left prong is where power comes in (when facing the panel) so I added the add a fuse in the opposite orientation to what you have here). Take a look at the diagram.

Attachment 233745
Attachment 233753



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Nope. I didnt know that was a thing. I've got it positioned the other way (red wire pointing towards the front of the truck) and it works just fine.

Now I do know the 2 positions for adding fuses on the add-a-circuit do matter. Which seems to be shown in the diagram you attached.

2016 Black Colorado Z71 4x4

- Current Mods: Air Dam Delete; WeatherTech floor liners; LED Bed-Lighting Mod;30" double row Xprite light bar; Tablet setup for nav;
Hard-wired dash cam to fuse box;


Build Thread: http://coloradofans.com/forums/265-2...and-build.html
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