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Center Console Tray -- SOLVED. Step by step

35K views 66 replies 33 participants last post by  Tom S. 
#1 · (Edited)
After reading multiple threads about products that might fit, or are "good enough, I played around and came up with this how to, with pictures. Hope it helps.

This requires modifications, but when done, you will have a center console tray that fits almost perfectly (about a 1/2” gap in the back) at the top of the center console as most trays are designed and slides in and out easily.

You will need to start with purchasing the RAV 4 console tray (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012K6FZDS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). UPDATE: There is now a cheaper version than this now for $9.00

Glue: Permatex® Plastic Welder or similar for ABS Plastic.

Step 1:
You need to remove 1/8” to 3/16” of material down the length of the tray near the center support, on the non-coin holder side (see yellow line in pic 1). A table saw is useful, and two passes will remove 3/16”.

Step 2:
After deburring the cuts, tape the tray together and test fit into your console. You will notice two angled raised areas in your console (tabs) (See pic 2a & 2b). Mark these areas on your tray and cut out a ½” deep notch on each side the width of the tabs. Overall, you are cutting a ½” deep notch, 1” wide on each side. This will ensure the console lid alignment tabs (2b) do not hit or interfere with the tray.

Step 3:
Using ABS epoxy (Permatex® Plastic Welder or similar) glue the sides together and tape firmly. Make sure to tape around the sides of the tray as well, to ensure the vertical seems bond

Step 4: Sand any rough edges/seams for an even look.

The final product will fit well into your console (see pics for final product). There is enough room to draw your USB cable to the existing cable wells at the corners the console. It does not slide around and will not fall into the console well. If you have the side notches cut correctly, the arm rest will close as if the tray was not even there.

Special thanks to jabberszl1 for giving me an opportunity to fine-tune the procedure for his truck.
 

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#2 ·
Thanks. After looking at that, If I am going out into the wood shop, I'll just build one out of walnut planed down to 1/4" thick, with through dovetails in the corners and sliding dovetails for the dividers. It'll cost less and take the same amount of time. :)
 
#3 ·
Wit walnut you could easily go down to 1/8", it's strong enough. I have a bunch of mahogany and cedar laying around my shop, so was going to do the same thing with some cedar closet planks I have, but wanted to try this out. Only cost the RAV4 console and the glue. Had the flex seal laying around. Probably cost a total of $20.
 
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#5 ·
Thanks. Really wasn't that much work. I may have just been to specific in my write up, that makes it look like a lot. Plus, I've had a finger needing to be stitched up, so safety with a table saw was important to me to stress. It was easier than installing the wiring for the pop & lock.

Bottom line, make it 1/4" narrower, glue it back together, cut in the notches and it's done
 
#6 ·
I used the same tray in mine but didn't make any modifications to it at all, just popped it in. Yes it was a tight fit but the plastic of the tray deforms fairly easily. The console lid barely latches but it does latch. And it seems like with time it's latching better, I was planning on doing some trimming to improve it but I may not even bother.
 
#9 ·
did not overlap the seams, just butt welded. the epoxy I used seems to be a very strong bond. My truck sat in the sun all day yesterday in 96 degree heat, with no distortion or weakening of the weld. I used an oscillating multi-tool for the notches. It was a bit cumbersome for such a small area (mine is a Dwalt with a big, heavy battery on one end). Tried with some dikes, but that cracked the plastic a bit; I think tin snips would have the same effect.
 
#16 ·
I tend to agree a lot of work for what should have been a factory item.

If you don't have access to specialized tools for cutting the notches, consider a hack saw, coping saw, or simply a file.

Still not the solution I am looking for, but kudos for the hard work.

I think it was my wife's 2005 Buick LaCrosse, or was it my 2001 Tahoe? One of our vehicles had the center console with a tray that was attached to the lid. You could open the lid itself, leaving the tray on top of the center console, or you could raise the lid & tray together, accessing the main, lower compartment. Kind of liked that design, because never fails, I need something in the bottom compartment, and so as I drive down the road, I have to remove the tray, find a place to set it, then reach in to the console to get the item I need, then replace the tray. Do all of this while keeping one hand on the wheel, but typically you have to take your eyes off the road temporarily to do all of this. With the attached tray, not a problem, but the downside was every thing in the tray slid to one end when you raised the tray and lid together.
 
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#17 · (Edited)
Or. .. just get one of these. A couple pieces of rubber camper seal or self adhesive weather strip and it fits very well. It even has a built in notch for the USB Port:
Less than $10 and no tools or cutting. .. .

http://coloradofans.com/forums/4162481-post23.html



https://www.amazon.com/Interior-Secondary-Organizer-Mitsubishi-Outlander/dp/B0119LAFOY
Same one for even less -- - -
https://www.amazon.com/Armrest-Secondary-Storage-Mitsubishi-Outlander/dp/B01A9OIBO8



Here's what worked for some of us. Thick squares of stiff rubber foam on the sides of each tray corner. Seems to work pretty well .
The inner sides of the console cavity taper down towards the bottom. So, wedging the tray in place will get tighter as you push it down. I want to pop the tray out to get at things underneath without too much effort, but still hold the tray in place.

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#18 ·
@GraniteBlue05,

How thick is that foam you are using?

I have some nice thick felt I use on bottom of furniture to not scratch our hardwood floors. It would work great for this application, but I fear from looking that it may be too thin.
 
#19 ·
@GraniteBlue05,

How thick is that foam you are using?

I have some nice thick felt I use on bottom of furniture to not scratch our hardwood floors. It would work great for this application, but I fear from looking that it may be too thin.
I thought about using felt furniture "feet" also, but thought they would not grip as well as the rubber "camper" type seal or weather strip. The foam pieces I used are about 3/16" thick and easily compresses, yet hold the insert tray in place very well.

I would also note that I can tilt the try upward and sneak my hand down under it to get at things below it. Of course, tilting it too much will do what you mentioned earlier and start dumping the tray contents out. However, things mostly stay in place since if they start to fall rearwards, they get stopped by the back of the console cavity wall . .. unless it is smaller things like coins.

So far, it's working well for me. I just wanted a small insert tray to hold an extra ring of keys, a small flashlight, wife's clip on sunglasses, etc.
 
#20 ·
Thanks for the effort on the write up, best storage solution I've seen yet for the Twins.

I may try & contact the manufacture about possibly offering one for the Twins. Seeing as it's so close to an existing one maybe they could just modify the mold to work for both. If any others are interested maybe contact them as well to let them know there's interest out there.

Cheers
 
#21 ·
Well I contacted the vendor "Colorful Town" through the Amazon marketplace yesterday & they got back to me fairly quick & seem interested in helping out with a storage tray for the Twins (see reply below). Note: @ferg Z71 they did see the feedback you left on their site! I'm trying to just give them the link to your write up but Amazon strips all URL's & email address from the conversation so that seems to be the biggest problem right now (they want to be the go between). I will try & send them the photos you uploaded above & later on I will take some actual measurements on my console (unless you already have them?).


Thanks for your inquiry.
As the model has not been imported to our country, we don't have the detailed dimension.
I have noticed the review the buyer wrote, the Rav4 storage box could be used after modification, but it's not a perfect fit.
Would you mind please take some photos showing your car's original armrest, if could please tell me the detailed dimension,I'll inquiry the factory whether they have the one for your truck, or we could make some for you.
Regards!
 
#22 ·
They seem to think it is a factory item that is not available to them yet. I will draw up a schematic with the modification measurements tonight. Wonder if they would share profits. Probably not as I think they are in CHina
 
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#24 · (Edited)
"ferg Z71".....Thanks for posting and linking to the tray. I ordered one three days ago on Amazon and got it yesterday. I just placed mine in the console and it fit fine. It was tight, but fit okay. As another posted stated, after the truck gets hot a couple of times, I'm sure it will conform.

I did look at why it's tight. There is a tab on each side of the center console opening that puts pressure on the tray. I think a simple notch in the tray would really loosen up the fit.

Either way, thanks for your post.

Update.....I went out and looked more closely at the tray. My Canyon has two tabs on the side of the console opening, that block the tray from seating deeper into the console, causing the problems with the lid latch.

I cut out the area where the two tabs interfere. The lip on the rear corners also catch the opening and don't allow the tray to seat all the way. I trimmed off the lip where the two back corners come across at a 45 degree angle. The fit is still tight, but now the lid closes properly. Most can just leave it this way. You can see a little wave at the front edge of the tray because that is where it fits the tightest. What's nice, there is an open area at the rear where you can reach in and easily pull the tray up.

I experimented some more and used a palm sander and sanded the sides of the tray down, taking off about 25% of the plastic. You can't see these sides unless the tray is out. After sanding, I hit it with some wet/dry sand paper and its hard to tell I sanded it.

Once again, the sanding is really not needed, but it does fit a little more smoothly. The big improvement was notching it. It's soft plastic so it was easy to trim with a razor knife.

Again, I'm not trying to overshadow the OP's excellent work, but just looking at a lazy man's fix that works too!

 
#26 ·
"ferg Z71".....Thanks for posting and linking to the tray. I ordered one three days ago on Amazon and got it yesterday. I just placed mine in the console and it fit fine. It was tight, but fit okay. As another posted stated, after the truck gets hot a couple of times, I'm sure it will conform.

I did look at why it's tight. There is a tab on each side of the center console opening that puts pressure on the tray. I think a simple notch in the tray would really loosen up the fit.

Either way, thanks for your post.

Update.....I went out and looked more closely at the tray. My Canyon has two tabs on the side of the console opening, that block the tray from seating deeper into the console, causing the problems with the lid latch.

I cut out the area where the two tabs interfere. The lip on the rear corners also catch the opening and don't allow the tray to seat all the way. I trimmed off the lip where the two back corners come across at a 45 degree angle. The fit is still tight, but now the lid closes properly. Most can just leave it this way. You can see a little wave at the front edge of the tray because that is where it fits the tightest. What's nice, there is an open area at the rear where you can reach in and easily pull the tray up.

I experimented some more and used a palm sander and sanded the sides of the tray down, taking off about 25% of the plastic. You can't see these sides unless the tray is out. After sanding, I hit it with some wet/dry sand paper and its hard to tell I sanded it.

Once again, the sanding is really not needed, but it does fit a little more smoothly. The big improvement was notching it. It's soft plastic so it was easy to trim with a razor knife.

Again, I'm not trying to overshadow the OP's excellent work, but just looking at a lazy man's fix that works too!



:surprise:
"Give a lazy man a hard job and he'll figure an easier way to do it"
 
#25 ·
Write up has been edited (shortened) and the procedure refined. Thanks to jabberszl1 for the opportunity to refine the product.
 
#31 ·
Don't know. I made one for jabberszl1 for free (he is just paying shipping) plus whatever he paid for it on Amazon. But in that case, it was an opportunity for me to refine my process (the current OP is the refined one with pics of HIS tray --- it turned out better than the original I made for myself). He will get his next week; I would ask him if it was worth buying it and paying for me to ship it back (I think it is)

I would not know what to charge. Before I was forced to retire, I was making $35/hour and this tray was only about 15 minutes of work (not counting the sanding and having to drag my table saw out of my store room).

Amazon has the same tray from another vendor now for $9 and the ABS Weld epoxy cost about 3-5 bucks, then there is shipping. Honestly, I would pay $25 for it. If GM ever makes one, they would probably charge $200. The Chinese Amazon vendors would probably steal it, mass produce it, then sell it for $11.... Hence you see my dilemma.
 
#32 ·
As an old plastics engineer, Chinese could design for probably $100 with the information here, build a mold for $2000, then they would have maybe 50 cents in the actual plastic part off the molding machine. If they sold 2101 units at $1.50, they would break even.
 
#34 ·
Exactly why I am not going to try to market it for a profit. I took it to a local shop that has an extruder (think that's the right spelling), and the most they could do is a thin plastic that I think wouldn't work for long.

Also with the end of the TPP (Trans Pacific Partnership) I am sure Honda would invoke their patent rights on us, and I would soon be totally broke. China is not binding to any agreements with Japan due to WWII, so they can get away with it. GM would not accept this design as it uses the RAV 4 tray.
 
#38 ·
#39 ·
I also got one of these console units for the Mitsubishi Outlander. It was only $7.70 and only took exactly 7 days from Taiwan. I used seller "Astra Depot" via Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XDMFLBG/ref=olp_product_details?_encoding=UTF8&me=
Yup. . nice right?

The very same one I got and I like the the USB is unobstructed and it has those rubber padded inserts !

Or. .. just get one of these. A couple pieces of rubber camper seal or self adhesive weather strip and it fits very well. It even has a built in notch for the USB Port:
Less than $10 and no tools or cutting. .. .

http://coloradofans.com/forums/4162481-post23.html



https://www.amazon.com/Interior-Secondary-Organizer-Mitsubishi-Outlander/dp/B0119LAFOY
Same one for even less -- - -
https://www.amazon.com/Armrest-Secondary-Storage-Mitsubishi-Outlander/dp/B01A9OIBO8



Here's what worked for some of us. Thick squares of stiff rubber foam on the sides of each tray corner. Seems to work pretty well .
The inner sides of the console cavity taper down towards the bottom. So, wedging the tray in place will get tighter as you push it down. I want to pop the tray out to get at things underneath without too much effort, but still hold the tray in place.

*
*

*
*
 
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#43 ·
You can make the RAV4 one fit by doing the side notches as shown in the other thread, then cut short notches from the top of the tray to the center divider. Then put the whole thing in a vice and heat the center divider with a heat gun. Then slowly tighten the vice. This will close up the center area and narrow the entire thing just enough to fit great. No table saw or epoxy needed. Still nice and strong.
 
#44 ·
I used the RAV4 console tray, and only used a dremel to cut out the tabs and the coin tray to make way for the USB cable. Its a little snug but thats fine. I got everything I need up top, and the stuff I dont need as frequently under.

 
#46 · (Edited)
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#48 ·
Just received an e-mail that this is now ready to order https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0773S1MF2
Man that must have sold out quick! It already says "Currently unavailable.
We don't know when or if this item will be back in stock."

Almost all 5 star reviews and all done in the last few days. Anybody have any info on it? If they are making more, how much it was? Looks like I stumbled upon it just a few days too late.

The stuff you guys have been doing with the modified other organizers are great, I was just hoping for something that was designed just for the truck. But I might have to "borrow" your guys' ideas.
 
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