Power door locks inoperative, and drivers door window inop - Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-08-2010, 01:00 PM Thread Starter
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Power door locks inoperative, and drivers door window inop

My 2005 all of a sudden the door locks don't activate. Fuse 21 (door lock fuse) is good and has voltage. Also drivers door window doesn't go up or down but all other windows work from driver's switch and passenger switches. Both these things occurred at same time. I have access to Alldatadiy.com and am proficient at working with wiring diagrams. The door lock fuse 21 has power and the orange wire at the door switch has power also. Where are door lock relays located? Alldata doesn't have a good list of relay and switch locations like some other databases like Mitchell on Demand.
Thanks, Dennis
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-08-2010, 01:14 PM
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Re: Power door locks inoperative, and drivers door window inop

Fairly common problem, this is a BCM issue. What has worked for me is to disconnect the battery and hold the positive and negative cables together for ~5 minutes, and rock the window and lock switches to discharge the capacitors.
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-08-2010, 01:33 PM
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Re: Power door locks inoperative, and drivers door window inop

Search the threads, this issue has been discussed many times with a few possible outcomes. Mine did it occasionally and went away and hasn't did it in years. Moisture in the switch is what I thought. Other have replaced the switch and a few other solutuions. I don't remember, but do a search it has been discussed in great detail.

2004 Colorado LS, Z-71, 4x4, ext. cab.
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-08-2010, 01:54 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Power door locks inoperative, and drivers door window inop

Sounds good, I will check threads. Also an update---- The RAP relay seems to work ok as I can listen to the radio while doors are shut and key is off. Also when vehicle is running, if I try to lock the doors, it chimes a warning when the door lock switch is pressed to lock.
:D
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-16-2010, 07:34 PM
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Re: Power door locks inoperative, and drivers door window inop

You need to replace the whole switch assembly. I just had the same problem 3 weeks ago. Local dealership had a service bulletin out for this issue. They replaced the switch under warranty.
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-16-2010, 10:04 PM
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Re: Power door locks inoperative, and drivers door window inop

check fuses i had the same thing happen and it was just the fuse. Maybe your prob
then it happen again for like two days and just fixed it self it was weird. I was about to replace the switch but its been working ever sence

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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-20-2010, 11:55 PM
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Re: Power door locks inoperative, and drivers door window inop

i used to have the same problem i changed the battery and everything works fine . did this 3 months ago. so its fixed.
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 12-27-2011, 05:06 PM
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Argh! I had this same problem last night, and nothing I tried then fixed it. Since there seems to be a lot of different threads on this subject, let me post what I did this morning that got it working for me. Hopefully it will help others.

Vehicle: 2007 Chevy Colororado, Z71, extended cab, 68K miles

I actually disconnected my battery on purpose - because we've got colder weather coming, and I wanted to check it's date and add any water if needed. And to even check the date on a Colly battery you've gotta disconnect it, because of how the battery cables run over the box it's in.

Anyhow, turns out my battery was fine, but when I reconnected it the driver's side window would not go up or down, and the power locks would not work. Pressing either button on the key fob would flash the headlights, and you could hear a relay under the hood clicking, but nothing on the locks. No response when pushing the door button lock inside the cab.

I've only had this car for 5K miles, but it seems to be in very good condition. Very clean, no signs the doors have ever been taken apart. It was cold out last night when I was doing this. 28 degrees. I tried disconnecting both the cables, touching them together, putting them back on, various "jiggling", checking a bunch of fuses, etc., no luck.

I left it overnight with the negative cable disconnected. This morning I took off the positive cable and touched them both together for 30 seconds, then *firmly* put the positive and negative cables on (no jiggling, just a good firm push), and voilà - the locks & window work! It was also 41 degrees this morning, which may have helped?

So-

- not sure if it was the sequence I did things at, the fact that it was above freezing when I re-connected the cables, or just the passage of time that it "healed itself", but it seems like if the problem is strictly related to a battery being disconnected, and not the switch panel in the door, it can be resolved easily. Good luck!
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-14-2012, 10:16 AM
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I cleaned the battery terminals and the battery cable ends, and it cured the problem.
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-14-2012, 02:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Denver View Post
Fairly common problem, this is a BCM issue. What has worked for me is to disconnect the battery and hold the positive and negative cables together for ~5 minutes, and rock the window and lock switches to discharge the capacitors.
Show me where there are capacitors in this system... Bet you can't...
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