Power door locks inoperative, and drivers door window inop - Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon
 
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-08-2010, 02:00 PM Thread Starter
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Power door locks inoperative, and drivers door window inop

My 2005 all of a sudden the door locks don't activate. Fuse 21 (door lock fuse) is good and has voltage. Also drivers door window doesn't go up or down but all other windows work from driver's switch and passenger switches. Both these things occurred at same time. I have access to Alldatadiy.com and am proficient at working with wiring diagrams. The door lock fuse 21 has power and the orange wire at the door switch has power also. Where are door lock relays located? Alldata doesn't have a good list of relay and switch locations like some other databases like Mitchell on Demand.
Thanks, Dennis
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-08-2010, 02:14 PM
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Re: Power door locks inoperative, and drivers door window inop

Fairly common problem, this is a BCM issue. What has worked for me is to disconnect the battery and hold the positive and negative cables together for ~5 minutes, and rock the window and lock switches to discharge the capacitors.
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-08-2010, 02:33 PM
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Re: Power door locks inoperative, and drivers door window inop

Search the threads, this issue has been discussed many times with a few possible outcomes. Mine did it occasionally and went away and hasn't did it in years. Moisture in the switch is what I thought. Other have replaced the switch and a few other solutuions. I don't remember, but do a search it has been discussed in great detail.

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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-08-2010, 02:54 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Power door locks inoperative, and drivers door window inop

Sounds good, I will check threads. Also an update---- The RAP relay seems to work ok as I can listen to the radio while doors are shut and key is off. Also when vehicle is running, if I try to lock the doors, it chimes a warning when the door lock switch is pressed to lock.
:D
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-16-2010, 08:34 PM
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Re: Power door locks inoperative, and drivers door window inop

You need to replace the whole switch assembly. I just had the same problem 3 weeks ago. Local dealership had a service bulletin out for this issue. They replaced the switch under warranty.
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-16-2010, 11:04 PM
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Re: Power door locks inoperative, and drivers door window inop

check fuses i had the same thing happen and it was just the fuse. Maybe your prob
then it happen again for like two days and just fixed it self it was weird. I was about to replace the switch but its been working ever sence

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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-21-2010, 12:55 AM
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Re: Power door locks inoperative, and drivers door window inop

i used to have the same problem i changed the battery and everything works fine . did this 3 months ago. so its fixed.
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 12-27-2011, 06:06 PM
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Argh! I had this same problem last night, and nothing I tried then fixed it. Since there seems to be a lot of different threads on this subject, let me post what I did this morning that got it working for me. Hopefully it will help others.

Vehicle: 2007 Chevy Colororado, Z71, extended cab, 68K miles

I actually disconnected my battery on purpose - because we've got colder weather coming, and I wanted to check it's date and add any water if needed. And to even check the date on a Colly battery you've gotta disconnect it, because of how the battery cables run over the box it's in.

Anyhow, turns out my battery was fine, but when I reconnected it the driver's side window would not go up or down, and the power locks would not work. Pressing either button on the key fob would flash the headlights, and you could hear a relay under the hood clicking, but nothing on the locks. No response when pushing the door button lock inside the cab.

I've only had this car for 5K miles, but it seems to be in very good condition. Very clean, no signs the doors have ever been taken apart. It was cold out last night when I was doing this. 28 degrees. I tried disconnecting both the cables, touching them together, putting them back on, various "jiggling", checking a bunch of fuses, etc., no luck.

I left it overnight with the negative cable disconnected. This morning I took off the positive cable and touched them both together for 30 seconds, then *firmly* put the positive and negative cables on (no jiggling, just a good firm push), and voilà - the locks & window work! It was also 41 degrees this morning, which may have helped?

So-

- not sure if it was the sequence I did things at, the fact that it was above freezing when I re-connected the cables, or just the passage of time that it "healed itself", but it seems like if the problem is strictly related to a battery being disconnected, and not the switch panel in the door, it can be resolved easily. Good luck!
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-14-2012, 11:16 AM
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I cleaned the battery terminals and the battery cable ends, and it cured the problem.
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-14-2012, 03:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Denver View Post
Fairly common problem, this is a BCM issue. What has worked for me is to disconnect the battery and hold the positive and negative cables together for ~5 minutes, and rock the window and lock switches to discharge the capacitors.
Show me where there are capacitors in this system... Bet you can't...
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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-15-2012, 08:13 PM
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check the grounding blocks on the inner fenders by the air box and the battery. i had the same problem and found two broken wires on the grounding box.
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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-06-2015, 11:09 PM
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Same thing happened to my 04 Canyon four door after I disconnected the battery to replace the vent solenoid for the charcoal canister. There is a single relay that controls both the power locks and the driver's side window, located inside the driver's side window switch. It can get stuck open, either from the BCM sending it into safe mode or, in my case, I think, because of extreme cold. If the battery trick doesn't reset it, like happened to me, take the switch out, remove the control unit from the bezel by removing the four screws and gently take the black cap off by prying out the six plastic tabs. Take the PC board out. Be careful, because not every rocker switch (four window switches and one lock/unlock switch) has a complete compliment of white plastic drive pins for some reason. The drive pins push down onto the rubber heads when you rock the switch to make the connection at the PC board. So if you take the rubber membrane out, take a photo of which ones have drive pins. They fall out and there are 14 spots for drive pins, but only 11 drive pins. (I thought I lost some and went mad looking for them before I figured it out.) The rear windows only have two spots each (4 total spots for rear windows), and each gets two drive pins (4 total pins for rear windows), but there are four spots for each front window (8 total spots) and they only get five total pins; one gets 3 pins and one gets 2 pins, leaving 3 spots open. (The last two pins go to the only 2 spots for the lock/unlock rocker switch, to make 11.) Anyway, I cleaned up the contacts for good measure, but they looked fine. Not knowing which of 3 relays it was on the PC board, I then I heated up all 3 relays with a heat gun (on low - not too much heat!) and tapped on them. I put it all back together and it all worked again.

Last edited by Happster; 01-06-2015 at 11:18 PM.
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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-06-2015, 11:27 PM
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Kind of an old Thread, but to clarify a couple of things that you posted. First of all, I have no doubt that the actions you took corrected the problem that you were having. However, there is no electrical connection between the windows and the locks, except they both share the same ground point. There are actually three relays in the door lock system, all within the driver's door switch module. The BCM has some control over the lock system, in the case of the Remote Keyless Entry. There are two relays in the driver's switch module, for the driver's window operation. These relays are not related to the door lock system and the BCM has no control over the operation of the power windows.
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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-07-2015, 09:20 AM
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I find old threads to be most helpful...they withstood the test of time. Like a fine wine. And largely due to helpful corrections like yours. Thanks for clarifying. I didn't have a schematic, but read in several blogs that one of the relays controls both the power door locks and the auto down function of the driver's side power windows. That doesn't make much sense to me now that you mention it. But I otherwise can't make sense of the persistent failure of both the driver's window and the door locks simultaneously. Is more than one relay locking up?
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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-07-2015, 10:19 AM
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I'm not sure what could be the cause the unexplained failure of the window/lock controls on certain trucks, when the battery is disconnected/reconnected. Other than the same ground wire/point, the two systems share only the logic board that is in the switch module. Perhaps the action of removing/reapplying power somehow interrupts the ground circuit within the logic board. The fact that it is not a permanent failure is mystifying. I understand "electrical" pretty well, but "electronic" theory leaves me scratching my head.
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post #16 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-16-2015, 03:47 PM
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Service Bulletin 3164 says blown fuse # 42 just fixed my 04 again, takes about 8-12 hours after fuse change to reset system and everything to work again.

Don Crawford
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post #17 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-16-2015, 04:05 PM
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Not sure about the fuse thing - mine was fine. Happened to me again - cleaning up battery terminals. This time the heat gun/tapping the relays trick didn't work. I read somewhere that the door control switchboard has capacitors that need to be drained of power to fix the problem. I did that - I took out the driver's switch, battery still connected, and took it apart again (see above). There are two capacitors on the PC board. Only one of mine had power, the one I the middle, showing about 2.5 volts. Using a flathead screwdriver I shorted the two legs of the capacitor together for a second, confirmed that power was drained. Put it all back together and it was perfect. 10 minutes from removal to operational. I think that is why you see people saying that taking the terminal clamps off the battery for an hour or more, and/or touching the battery cables together work for them. Maybe either action can lead to the capacitors draining on their own?? The first time that the heat gun/tap the relays thing worked fro me (per above) the switch was out of the truck for a few hours, so maybe that drained the relays. Anyway, draining the capacitors worked like a charm without the heat gun/relay tapping this time, in sub-zero temps, so Jimmy crack corn as to why.

Last edited by Happster; 01-16-2015 at 04:08 PM.
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post #18 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-16-2015, 04:55 PM
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I have dealt with this at least 4 times in 7 years on my 2006, seems like a different "fix" works each time, but its never been a fuse, last time it was the heat gun but prior times the shorting of the capacitors worked, yet another it was the simple disconnecting.... etc..

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110,000 miles on 10/22/13
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130,000 miles on 03/19/15
140,000 miles on 11/19/15
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