It showed up yesterday and got it in today. Some things worth mentioning.
#1 - it is probably not easier to remove the bed for this job (even if you have a model where the pump is not under the cab like mine was). There are only 2 bolts, the fuel fill, the liner behind the tire on the drivers side (a handful of 10M bolts accessed via the wheel well), and some quick disconnects that need to come out to drop the tank. It's not very hard at all, I believe most would spend more time removing the bed than just dropping the tank. As a matter of fact you do not need to remove the rear tire even as the book mentions.
You do want the truck up real high or a couple jacks, wood blocks, jackstands, and that sort of stuff handy. I just jacked up one side of the truck w/ stands & wood blocks for safety, then occasionally bumped it up w/ a second floor jack as needs arose. At times you will need the truck up higher to get under it and slide the tank in/out, as well as having the driver side rear tire sorta "hanging" on the suspension so that you can more easily access the wheel well.
#2 - if your fuel pump was as rotted as mine you will likely not get any of the fittings back that connect to it, it's not worth wasting your time trying to mess with if it looks impossible. All the small 3/8 plastic fuel line fittings can be purchased at auto-zone/equivalent; the vent you can retro-fit to 5/8 hose w/ a hose clamp. What I did on mine was I took a 1/2 to 5/8 union (ie home depot brass parts) and fit the 1/2 side to the original vent line and the 5/8 side to the rubber hose to the vent on the fuel pump. The 3/8 fuel line I cut a section of hose with the old fitting off and spliced a new piece of hose with the fitting on there.
To splice the plastic lines the instructions will tell you to submerge the plastic hoses in water for 10 minutes. Simple hot water doesn't work that well, rather you are better off using boiling water, which does not require 10 minutes. Heat the hose area where you want to do the splice, heat the metal fitting, then wearing gloves (so you do not burn yourself), jam it together quickly and you will have no problem seating it.. The key thing being the boiling (not just hot) water and heating the metal fitting so it doesn't take heat away from the hose during installation.
There ends up being enough clearance on the fuel & vent lines such that you do not need to have all the perfect bends like the original hoses do. I ran my vent line outside of the tank instead of in the little channel w/ the clips for it, the fuel line I built was straight and not well conformed to the thank and doesn't matter. One could probably change parts of any of the fuel lines to rubber sections if they wanted, with the exception of it may be very hard to get a good fitting on the fuel outlet since at the pump there is no barb.
Re-installing the plastic fittings it's night and day with just a touch of grease on the male end, otherwise they do not slide together very nicely when the parts are older.
#3 - although it looks like common bulk parts the fuel fill line is not, it's a size nobody carries (less than 1 3/8, probably 1 1/4) and further inspection revealed it's a hose with 2 different sizes on the ends (with one side being like 1 1/8 and the other 1 1/4).. I spliced mine together with a union, works fine, but if I had not cut it in dead center it would've taken a less ideal mickey-mouse or the GM part # to repair.
Whole job removal to install like 4-5 hours including time spent second-guessing retro-fit fuel line parts because I wasn't sure what was going to fit between the tank & body, and similarly figuring out what to do with the fill.
kids don't try this at home
Last edited by leaky; 01-30-2016 at 11:14 PM.