Dead battery/low voltage - Page 2 - Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon
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post #21 of 63 (permalink) Old 04-07-2017, 02:59 AM
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What about all the cars and trucks on the dealer's lots where the dealers remote start the vehicles, the lights turn on automatically, they crank up the seat warmers, use the electric assist heat, electric defrosters, etc. They run the trucks or cars for a few miles and park them for the next test drive. If the alternators didn't charge the batteries they would all be dead every single time. Other than the OP and a few others, these vehicles for the most part do run.

Bringing this back to the OP's question, if you are driving and there isn't enough electrical power to run the defrosters and the DIC, etc. Then you do need to have the electrical system checked, including the battery and the alternator. The alternator should absolutely be enough to power everything even if the battery was low. Once the truck is running it shouldn't be drawing from the battery anymore. it should be recharging it.
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post #22 of 63 (permalink) Old 04-07-2017, 07:11 AM
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Here is the deal.

Today's Delco batteries are not like they used to be. They are junk. My last three failed catastrophically at 3 years.

Yesterday today there are cases where a failing battery will shut down systems as they go. I believe it has to do with the condition of the battery. I started the wife's GP and watched as on the way home the radio, then the act and then the gauges all shut down but the car kept running and it would fail last.

New battery fixed it.

As for a total dead battery dose not damage the battery. But in most cases the battery is already damaged to get that low.

Even the other day my buddies Sierra failed and it was the battery. It would not even jump. Today's systems react differently and the delco batteries are failing in 4 years vs the 12-18 I used to get. Yes one was going good at 18 years and I replaced it as I knew I was on barrows time.
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post #23 of 63 (permalink) Old 04-07-2017, 07:34 AM
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This example is an older vehicle so may not apply to modern batteries.

My 1985 S10 Blazer had a switch on the roof back at the rear window. It was very easy to accidentally hit it and turn on the cabin lights in the truck and walk away. This happened at least 3 times where I came back to a dead battery that was toast. It would kill at least one cell every time.

Alternator should be able to run all systems without a battery. Battery basically cleans up the electrical signal as earlier mentioned.
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post #24 of 63 (permalink) Old 04-07-2017, 11:09 AM Thread Starter
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I am not positive but i think the trucks computer will turn things off to save power if there is a problem (like a dead battery or weak alternator). Most likely just a very dead battery in your case. Seams like it would leave the DIC on so it can tell you the battery is low though.....hmmm not sure. I guess i could read the book to find out but I'm too lazy. you too? LOL
No, Actually I'm one of those rare persons that still reads (yes reads not scans) the owners manual. Its is a bore and tedious as its filled with so much stuff geared towards really thick headed persons but I always find important information about the vehicle I just spend over 40k on. So I think its time well spend to learn and protect my investment in a vehicle.
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post #25 of 63 (permalink) Old 04-07-2017, 11:21 AM
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I am not positive but i think the trucks computer will turn things off to save power if there is a problem (like a dead battery or weak alternator). Most likely just a very dead battery in your case. Seams like it would leave the DIC on so it can tell you the battery is low though.....hmmm not sure. I guess i could read the book to find out but I'm too lazy. you too? LOL
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No, Actually I'm one of those rare persons that still reads (yes reads not scans) the owners manual. Its is a bore and tedious as its filled with so much stuff geared towards really thick headed persons but I always find important information about the vehicle I just spend over 40k on. So I think its time well spend to learn and protect my investment in a vehicle.
If you really want to learn about the battery run down protection, download the Upfitter manual for your year model and read some of the information in there. Very informative.

Link to Upfitter Manual should be in a stickied thread in the 2nd Generation Electrical Forum.

Free Electrical Diagram Colorado/ Canyon 2015

See very first post - you may have to play around to get to the 2017 manual.

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post #26 of 63 (permalink) Old 04-07-2017, 11:25 AM
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Yes it is correct things will shut down.


I too have read about it, I too have experienced it first hand, and I too have seen it happen this week to a friends new truck.




Things are not like they used to be and the loads are much on a vehicles electric system anymore.




Yes the Alternator will charge enough but it takes the battery to support it fully and when the battery fails it will remove things to not over load the charging system.

In the near future we will see an increase in the voltage of the automotive systems. VW and Lincoln will be to 48 volt soon and the rest will follow. Just the voltage to run the DI injectors is crazy and will do some damage if you catch a shock from it.


The key anymore is please do not assume since it appears the same that things still work the same. Todays cars are transitioning in some very subtle ways and many people make the mistake to not account for these changes.


Like the truck this week. While the battery died even a jump start would not start it let alone even get anything inside to work. The truck was totally dead. Just changing the battery fixed it.
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post #27 of 63 (permalink) Old 04-07-2017, 11:43 AM
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Yes it is correct things will shut down.

I too have read about it, I too have experienced it first hand, and I too have seen it happen this week to a friends new truck.

Things are not like they used to be and the loads are much on a vehicles electric system anymore.

Yes the Alternator will charge enough but it takes the battery to support it fully and when the battery fails it will remove things to not over load the charging system.

In the near future we will see an increase in the voltage of the automotive systems. VW and Lincoln will be to 48 volt soon and the rest will follow. Just the voltage to run the DI injectors is crazy and will do some damage if you catch a shock from it.

The key anymore is please do not assume since it appears the same that things still work the same. Todays cars are transitioning in some very subtle ways and many people make the mistake to not account for these changes.

Like the truck this week. While the battery died even a jump start would not start it let alone even get anything inside to work. The truck was totally dead. Just changing the battery fixed it.
I don't fully agree with all of your premises, overall, I think the main focus of your comment is true. This ain't your dad's Oldsmobile.

In the past I could use some logic to troubleshoot a vehicle. When I say logic, maybe it wasn't really true logic, but rather experience from 40+ years of working on traditional vehicles backed by the experience of my dad, a boss who ran the machine shop where I worked my way through college, and various other real world experiences.
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post #28 of 63 (permalink) Old 04-07-2017, 11:52 AM Thread Starter
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Wow, The amount of false information being posted here on this topic is unbelievable.

The battery in your truck does NOT generate power. It is a storage device for power generated elsewhere. All electrical power is normally supplied by the alternator. Some of that generated power will be stored in the battery for later short term use by other truck electrical devices. The main short term battery power user is the starter. Other electrical devices can also used stored battery power on a short term basis, but all of the power used has to be replaced by the charging (alternator) system.

So on your dead battery problem, you have one of three issues.

1. The battery is defective and will not store the power.

2. The charging system is not charging the battery correctly. This is usually low charging voltage caused by an alternator or computer problem.

3. Something in the truck is drawing power when the truck is not running.

As a side note on this one, when I first got my Colorado I had this problem. My BCM was not going to sleep and was drawing excess power while parked. My research found that the GM design point is the system must draw less than 20 ma. (.020 amps) when shut down and the vehicle must be able to start after being parked for 30 days.
Thank you for this information. I think you maybe dead (no pun intended there) on. I have raised hell "politely" as I can while dropping F bombs as I still need them on my side and do a good job and not to be careless. I have taken the truck back now a third time This IS a brand new truck. It only has 400 miles on the clock when I dropped it off this third time. They now (FINALLY) suspect a bad module in the DIC center dash/gauge cluster. Its all one unit according to them and it all has to be replaced even though the instruments and screen work fine when its working. The module behind the dash isn't powering down all the time or so they suspect now. He stopped short of saying that it IS the problem but ordered the parts on "best guess assumption". The dealer has ordered a new center dash cluster and DIC display and has promised to replace the battery with a new one as well. This didn't instill confidence obviously but what else can I do.

I'm not sure what a BCM is...I believe the service tech advisor that I talked to called it a IPC module. He thinks it controls and it tied in with all the complaints I'm having and experiencing...Dead battery, no start, no cruise, no remote start/unlock, no phone/bluetooth. But again back you your breakdown of my situation...Its a computer problem. The trouble I'm having with it is why it wasn't discovered on the first visit??

I'll update after awhile (with part numbers and repair notes if anyone in interested) again once I've had the truck for more than a day or two and the prob is gone.
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post #29 of 63 (permalink) Old 04-07-2017, 11:59 AM
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Not true at all, the battery is really only there to start the thing (basically). If it couldn't be powered by the alternator alone, (and needed the battery power also to run) the battery would eventually die.....think about it.......
Actually it is true. Most modern vehicles don't have an alternator strong enough that will allow it to charge up a battery that is completely dead. Oh sure it technically will charge it; the problem is that it puts a huge strain on the alternator causing it to overheat. If you're lucky nothing happens. If you're unlucky you start melting insulation on the windings or you start blowing diodes. When that happens all sorts of fun starts happening with the vehicle.

How do I know? Ask me about my 2002 Acura RSX Type S that nearly went up in flames because of a dead battery that I charged with my alternator, ended up getting an open diode in the alternator, started putting AC current into the battery, and cooked out the electrolyte in the battery to the point it nearly caught fire... :D
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post #30 of 63 (permalink) Old 04-07-2017, 12:06 PM
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Actually it is true. Most modern vehicles don't have an alternator strong enough that will allow it to charge up a battery that is completely dead. Oh sure it technically will charge it; the problem is that it puts a huge strain on the alternator causing it to overheat. If you're lucky nothing happens. If you're unlucky you start melting insulation on the windings or you start blowing diodes. When that happens all sorts of fun starts happening with the vehicle.

How do I know? Ask me about my 2002 Acura RSX Type S that nearly went up in flames because of a dead battery that I charged with my alternator, ended up getting an open diode in the alternator, started putting AC current into the battery, and cooked out the electrolyte in the battery to the point it nearly caught fire... :D
well, I really wasn't talking about charging dead batteries with your alternator. Auto mechanics 101 tells you to fully charge a dead battery before running it. Just because of the reason you stated. In fact, when you buy a new alternator there is usually a big red sign on it telling you to charge the battery because they don't want you using your warranty on the first day. ;)
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post #31 of 63 (permalink) Old 04-07-2017, 12:10 PM
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Thank you for this information. I think you maybe dead (no pun intended there) on. I have raised hell "politely" as I can while dropping F bombs as I still need them on my side and do a good job and not to be careless. I have taken the truck back now a third time This IS a brand new truck. It only has 400 miles on the clock when I dropped it off this third time. They now (FINALLY) suspect a bad module in the DIC center dash/gauge cluster. Its all one unit according to them and it all has to be replaced even though the instruments and screen work fine when its working. The module behind the dash isn't powering down all the time or so they suspect now. He stopped short of saying that it IS the problem but ordered the parts on "best guess assumption". The dealer has ordered a new center dash cluster and DIC display and has promised to replace the battery with a new one as well. This didn't instill confidence obviously but what else can I do.

I'm not sure what a BCM is...I believe the service tech advisor that I talked to called it a IPC module. He thinks it controls and it tied in with all the complaints I'm having and experiencing...Dead battery, no start, no cruise, no remote start/unlock, no phone/bluetooth. But again back you your breakdown of my situation...Its a computer problem. The trouble I'm having with it is why it wasn't discovered on the first visit??

I'll update after awhile (with part numbers and repair notes if anyone in interested) again once I've had the truck for more than a day or two and the prob is gone.
hey they seem to be on top of it now. thats great. Sucks its on a brand new truck though...crap....
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post #32 of 63 (permalink) Old 04-07-2017, 12:24 PM Thread Starter
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Actually it is true. Most modern vehicles don't have an alternator strong enough that will allow it to charge up a battery that is completely dead. Oh sure it technically will charge it; the problem is that it puts a huge strain on the alternator causing it to overheat. If you're lucky nothing happens. If you're unlucky you start melting insulation on the windings or you start blowing diodes. When that happens all sorts of fun starts happening with the vehicle.

How do I know? Ask me about my 2002 Acura RSX Type S that nearly went up in flames because of a dead battery that I charged with my alternator, ended up getting an open diode in the alternator, started putting AC current into the battery, and cooked out the electrolyte in the battery to the point it nearly caught fire... :D

I have no...absolutely zero doubt that this happened...But I believe without a shadow of doubt that there was was one or more factors that caused such a catastrophe. I car doesn't nearly go up in flames because the battery when dead and it was to taxing for the charging system to recharge the battery. I'm not a mechanic by any stretch for sure but respectfully that wreaks highly of some other issue present before the battery died.

Regarding batteries and automotive charging systems...(again not a trained mechanic) I don't believe for one iota that manufacturers are so inept to design systems that cannot fully sustain the normal operation of a vehicle...whatever/however batteries and alternators work together. Vehicles today are so well engineered and the automotive market is so competitive car manufacturers are going to great lengths to make cars and truck better than ever to retain customers. I'm talking about new cars being delivered from the factory and are unaltered and any way. People that modify their cars or trucks and/or add accessories are on a different playing field in my opinion.

The notion that the charging system cannot replenish the battery is just not normal...if that was the case then the battery manufacturers would be in the profit sector with the oil companies because every couple months people would have to replace dead batteries. Think about it, or am I way way off base? The wide majority of people at some point from time to time start and stop the vehicles in a very short time period...to move a car in the driveway, run and grab lunch a few block away from work and back, down the the mail box and back...even modern cars with auto stop/start...whatever. If the charging systems of vehicles cannot keep the battery replenished in a fairly short order then the failure rate of batteries would be astronomically higher than it is.

Once again I'm not a mechanic but if my basic understanding of batteries/charging systems is cuckoo then please correct me.
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post #33 of 63 (permalink) Old 04-07-2017, 12:26 PM
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No, Actually I'm one of those rare persons that still reads (yes reads not scans) the owners manual. Its is a bore and tedious as its filled with so much stuff geared towards really thick headed persons but I always find important information about the vehicle I just spend over 40k on. So I think its time well spend to learn and protect my investment in a vehicle.

I was just kidding with you, sorry. But seriously, I am too lazy to read it. I probably would when its too late though...lol I've been reading this stuff for 30 plus years (had to for a living) I do still find it interesting though. The bent over/under the hood when its 100 degrees out and being crammed under a dash doesn't interest me anymore though. When I was a youngster it didn't bother me much, but now it just plain sucks.....lol
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post #34 of 63 (permalink) Old 04-07-2017, 12:42 PM
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I don't fully agree with all of your premises, overall, I think the main focus of your comment is true. This ain't your dad's Oldsmobile.

In the past I could use some logic to troubleshoot a vehicle. When I say logic, maybe it wasn't really true logic, but rather experience from 40+ years of working on traditional vehicles backed by the experience of my dad, a boss who ran the machine shop where I worked my way through college, and various other real world experiences.

The past 40 years mean little to the recent products. Things are much different today and you really have to keep up not just yearly but monthly. Not easy to do if you are not going to regular training or receiving regular information and updates.

Machine Shop? That is great but what does that do for new technology they are putting out regularly? Logic no longer applies just training and education.


I work in the Performance industry and try to keep up with training and even then it is difficult. I also have many friends that are techs that own their own shops and or work for GM dealers as techs and or service managers.


Even on my last vehicle I had to work with a GM performance driveline engineer to resolve a nagging issue on my 300 HP DI Turbo 2.0 Chevy engine.


I too have worked my way through life and put my self though collage but none of my past helps with new technology today.

the computers in these vehicles are much more advanced today and can do some really amazing things. They mostly are all the same just the programming differs per application. But like so many other things from spacecraft, planes and even boats these computers are programed to kill non essential systems when power is down. They are programed to work in a neutral mode when a sensor fails to give you a safe mode to get home or to a dealer for repair.


The demands for power in todays cars need to be managed as you are still using the same 12 volts that we have used since the 50's but now with so much more demand. Electric power steering. High Voltage injectors. The entertainment system alone.

This is why automakers will up the voltage very soon.


Just the injectors on this truck crack a heavy punch as we are now seeing fuel pressures of 2000-3000 pounds at the injectors and it takes a lot of voltage to fire that injector open and closed.


So you can disagree but the real question is what have you done lately. I am not trying to be smart but so many people fail to realize how much has changed and if you do not keep up you will be left behind. In todays products you can never assume anymore based on past experience or you will end up with an even bigger issue on your hands.


I know a lot on cars. But even today when I get into new things I really do my home work before I get into it. Even simple things we used to do in the past no longer apply.


The key is to do as I am doing anymore I know some but there is much more I need to learn.


The truth is we are way past what your fathers Olds was. We are far past what NASA used to get to the moon is a little closer.
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post #35 of 63 (permalink) Old 04-07-2017, 01:07 PM Thread Starter
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The past 40 years mean little to the recent products. Things are much different today and you really have to keep up not just yearly but monthly. Not easy to do if you are not going to regular training or receiving regular information and updates.

Machine Shop? That is great but what does that do for new technology they are putting out regularly? Logic no longer applies just training and education.


I work in the Performance industry and try to keep up with training and even then it is difficult. I also have many friends that are techs that own their own shops and or work for GM dealers as techs and or service managers.


Even on my last vehicle I had to work with a GM performance driveline engineer to resolve a nagging issue on my 300 HP DI Turbo 2.0 Chevy engine.


I too have worked my way through life and put my self though collage but none of my past helps with new technology today.

the computers in these vehicles are much more advanced today and can do some really amazing things. They mostly are all the same just the programming differs per application. But like so many other things from spacecraft, planes and even boats these computers are programed to kill non essential systems when power is down. They are programed to work in a neutral mode when a sensor fails to give you a safe mode to get home or to a dealer for repair.


The demands for power in todays cars need to be managed as you are still using the same 12 volts that we have used since the 50's but now with so much more demand. Electric power steering. High Voltage injectors. The entertainment system alone.

This is why automakers will up the voltage very soon.


Just the injectors on this truck crack a heavy punch as we are now seeing fuel pressures of 2000-3000 pounds at the injectors and it takes a lot of voltage to fire that injector open and closed.


So you can disagree but the real question is what have you done lately. I am not trying to be smart but so many people fail to realize how much has changed and if you do not keep up you will be left behind. In todays products you can never assume anymore based on past experience or you will end up with an even bigger issue on your hands.


I know a lot on cars. But even today when I get into new things I really do my home work before I get into it. Even simple things we used to do in the past no longer apply.


The key is to do as I am doing anymore I know some but there is much more I need to learn.


The truth is we are way past what your fathers Olds was. We are far past what NASA used to get to the moon is a little closer.
I completely agree with the NASA sentiment as most of us have smart phones that might likely have more computing power than the first space explorers. I won't even pretend to understand volts, amp, ohms, etc but isn't that why alternators can vary output and are rated for maximum output levels? For example, I replaced an alternator on another vehicle and choose a unit with higher amperage. The stock was 90a and I went with the 120a. I see the benefit after I start the car, turn on heater, rear defrost, seat heaters, headlights...The lights are just a bright at an idle or if you rev the engine. Do you understand what I'm describing? Before the lights would dim just a little, blower would slow just a tad till you increased RPM or started driving. But with the higher amps seems powers is more available even at an idle.
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post #36 of 63 (permalink) Old 04-07-2017, 01:25 PM
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I completely agree with the NASA sentiment as most of us have smart phones that might likely have more computing power than the first space explorers. I won't even pretend to understand volts, amp, ohms, etc but isn't that why alternators can vary output and are rated for maximum output levels? For example, I replaced an alternator on another vehicle and choose a unit with higher amperage. The stock was 90a and I went with the 120a. I see the benefit after I start the car, turn on heater, rear defrost, seat heaters, headlights...The lights are just a bright at an idle or if you rev the engine. Do you understand what I'm describing? Before the lights would dim just a little, blower would slow just a tad till you increased RPM or started driving. But with the higher amps seems powers is more available even at an idle.

To be honest the ability to get power management we do from the size battery and only 12 volts we have now is nothing short of amazing. Much of this did come from what we have learned with the space program and continued to learn with the modern electronics we have today.

The advancements of the smart phone are just a hint at what so many other products are doing. The changes we have had and the ones coming to the automobile in the next few years will be more than we have had in over the last 100 years collectively.
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post #37 of 63 (permalink) Old 04-07-2017, 02:24 PM
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The past 40 years mean little to the recent products. Things are much different today and you really have to keep up not just yearly but monthly. Not easy to do if you are not going to regular training or receiving regular information and updates.

Machine Shop? That is great but what does that do for new technology they are putting out regularly? Logic no longer applies just training and education.


...
So you can disagree but the real question is what have you done lately. I am not trying to be smart but so many people fail to realize how much has changed and if you do not keep up you will be left behind. In todays products you can never assume anymore based on past experience or you will end up with an even bigger issue on your hands.


I know a lot on cars. But even today when I get into new things I really do my home work before I get into it. Even simple things we used to do in the past no longer apply.


The key is to do as I am doing anymore I know some but there is much more I need to learn.


The truth is we are way past what your fathers Olds was. We are far past what NASA used to get to the moon is a little closer.
As far as the machine shop, not a thing. Swapped out a forklift engine, replaced or rebuilt an alternator on a couple of forklifts, etc. My boss in that job was a former race car driver - taught me a lot about cars & trucks back then. He would be totally lost with today's vehicles if he was still alive. (The way he smoked & drank, I doubt he is still alive, if so he would be in at least his 90s.)

I think the whole premise behind my comments was that I haven't kept up with the technology. Where we are at with modern vehicles pushes well past where my poor little brain can handle the processes. I do worry that the tech Geeks working these new designs have lost sight of the main goal: A reliable means of transportation that doesn't consider a Microsoft Blue Screen of Death once a week as an acceptable product to put on the road.

I still say an alternator should be able to run all of the systems but the starter all at the same time, with a little bit extra to charge the battery. Remember, most old vehicles and I assume modern vehicles shot off power to accessories while the starter is running. Starter gets it's juice entirely from the battery.
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post #38 of 63 (permalink) Old 04-07-2017, 03:45 PM
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As far as the machine shop, not a thing. Swapped out a forklift engine, replaced or rebuilt an alternator on a couple of forklifts, etc. My boss in that job was a former race car driver - taught me a lot about cars & trucks back then. He would be totally lost with today's vehicles if he was still alive. (The way he smoked & drank, I doubt he is still alive, if so he would be in at least his 90s.)

I think the whole premise behind my comments was that I haven't kept up with the technology. Where we are at with modern vehicles pushes well past where my poor little brain can handle the processes. I do worry that the tech Geeks working these new designs have lost sight of the main goal: A reliable means of transportation that doesn't consider a Microsoft Blue Screen of Death once a week as an acceptable product to put on the road.

I still say an alternator should be able to run all of the systems but the starter all at the same time, with a little bit extra to charge the battery. Remember, most old vehicles and I assume modern vehicles shot off power to accessories while the starter is running. Starter gets it's juice entirely from the battery.

I appreciate what you have done and the things you have worked on. But changing a tow motor engine really has no real relation to todays modern electrical systems in todays vehicles. I work with race mechanics every day and they can do some amazing things but they too have no real knowledge of many of the modern electrical systems as they really do not ever work with them.


This also has nothing to do with how smart you are or where you live or how much you make. The bottom line is have you worked on and trained on any of todays modern electrical systems? Odd based on what you have said I would wager no and you are only basing things on what you have worked on.

Now with that said that means you lack the training and often the understanding of how things work with todays system. That is not a sin or a mark against you it just means you just don't know. The reality is many people have no clue as they have yet to deal with much of this. It has changed much in just the last few years.

In fact many of us can not even work on these systems as it takes the right tools and even often the information to just know what it can or can't do. My friend for his business a few years ago had to invest $15K just for the programming for his tools to diagnose and test the many systems he works on. He then also has to pay a fee yearly to update it over the year with many updates as they come in over that year.

Hey I do not know it all here and will be the first one to tell you. But with your comments you show you really have not tied into these new systems yet with where they are at or let alone where they are going.

The fact is the demands of these vehicles is high on power and it relays on management of the electrical system by the computer. It is only going to get worse and I do not mean Hybrids as that is just another game all together.


So please do not take this personal but you really underestimate the abilities of these systems.
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post #39 of 63 (permalink) Old 04-07-2017, 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by hyperv6 View Post

Even the other day my buddies Sierra failed and it was the battery. It would not even jump. Today's systems react differently and the delco batteries are failing in 4 years vs the 12-18 I used to get. Yes one was going good at 18 years and I replaced it as I knew I was on barrows time.
yes are right about Ac Delco batteries I think, used to be great. And never leaked.

18 years? are you serious? wow! I'm lucky to get 2 years out of a cheap Autozone battery. I gave up on them, found a battery place not far from me with good prices. Going to go there and see what happens. Got 8 years on my MB so far but I think it is top quality and its HUGE for the car. Oh and they insulate them from the engine heat too. i think that helps a lot, especially around here where it likes to get to triple digits in the summer.

Sent from the butt crack of California.
2016 Colorado 4x4 CC SB V6
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275/70-17 Cooper AT3 on MotoMetal 970s
Scary, evil, black, warranty voiding catch can from the devil
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post #40 of 63 (permalink) Old 04-07-2017, 04:19 PM
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I think its possible we are all (well most) are on the same page (well same book) but maybe are looking at the battery condition differently?

Anyway, any of you smarty pants want to tell us how much our alternators put out at idle? (mines a 2016 V6) That might shed some light on the whole debate...Please don't make me go check mine............I really don't feel like it, but I will if I have to dammit! lol I might learn something.

Sent from the butt crack of California.
2016 Colorado 4x4 CC SB V6
AS level/lift 2.5" w/1" rear block, diff drop
275/70-17 Cooper AT3 on MotoMetal 970s
Scary, evil, black, warranty voiding catch can from the devil
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