According to this post by TexasXtreme, I mixed all my wire polarity up on the speakers. I'll be fixing that when it's almost 70 degrees out the next few days.
This is my first thread. I've gained a lot of knowledge through these forums and am trying to contribute for others like myself that might need a really thorough tutorial. If anything is unclear, please ask.
2012 Colorado, CrewCab, Z71, 4x4 (factory head unit until more parts arrive)
Item installed in front doors;
KENWOOD KFC-XP184C 7" 2-WAY EXCELON SERIES COMPONENT CAR SPEAKERS
I chose this older excelon model because it has a higher sensitivity range, it requires less RMS wattage (80) than the newer generation and I don't want to always have to listen to my music loud to hear all the detail. I'm not an audio expert, this decision is based on my current understanding.
Here I'll just be replacing the factory speakers with ones I'm VERY happy with. Later I'll add an amplifier. ( MRP-F250 )
I removed the factory OEM tweeters from the door. Just rotate them about 1/4 turn like you are opening a lid and they pop out of 3 tabs on the door panel.
Then I removed the new tweeters from the housing they are shipped in and found that they are pretty much the exact same diameter as the OEM tweeters.
You can almost just screw them right in, but not quite. Still, the 3 OEM tabs grab on pretty nicely. Tight enough that you have to pop it on one tab at a time. The fit is very tight and I don't expect problems, but even if they do pop out later, I'll just add a few drops of hot glue on the ends of the 3 tabs.
The speakers come with some adhesive foam strips you'll see me use throughout. Here I surrounded the tweeter to make a baffle.
The new speakers come with 2 mounting plate options. One allows you to mount the speaker in a 6x9 factory hole in your vehicle. Obviously, I didn't use that here. The one you see me use is a really clever plate that has SEVERAL breakaway pieces that you can bend and snap off to fit your specific application. If you break off ALMOST all of the tabs, you are left with a bracket that fits exactly into our doors. Two tabs on one side and a screw hole on the other.
Notice how the factory speaker has a foam baffle on the outside of the rubber portion. That foam baffle presses into a ring on the door panel to make a tight seal. That foam baffle happens to be the same diameter as the rubber on my new speakers. This creates a problem that I'll solve below.
See, same diameter.
The speaker depths and the mounting plate depths are basically identical on the OEM and 7" speakers here, but notice how the rubber on the new speakers is basically the same height as the foam on the OEM speakers. Like I mentioned, that foam is pressed into a sharp ring on the door panel to create a "sound seal". You can see the indentation that ring made in the foam. When I installed the new speakers, the rubber was touching this sharp ring, muffling the speaker and would surely damage the rubber in the long run.
A short, thick blade makes it easy to cut this ring off in one continuous slice.
The tweeter plugs into a cable with an inline crossover which plugs into the 7" main speaker. I taped it here, but it kept falling off in the cold, so fastened the crossover to the door with a screw and cable clamp below.
I cut a slit in the door plastic and ran the speaker connectors through to come in behind the speaker
I still have the factory head unit / receiver and they still sound so much clearer than those paper OEM jobs. Can't wait to install the multimedia receiver and amplifier; just waiting on parts.