HVAC Fan Motor: Resistor & Connector replacement (MMP) - Page 23 - Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon
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post #441 of 460 (permalink) Old 12-26-2013, 05:53 PM
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You need to take your voltage readings under load, meaning with the blower motor attached. Then you need to determine if you are missing +12 volts or -12 volts at the blower motor. Once you have done that, we can go looking for the partially open circuit (high resistance connection).

Note: the fuse and relay are on the +12 volt side of the motor while the fan switch and resistor are on the -12 volt (ground) side of the motor.

http://www.naskie18.com/colorado/sch...C%20Heater.pdf

2005 White 2wd Z71 WT
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post #442 of 460 (permalink) Old 03-09-2014, 06:56 PM
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I had my dealership repair my Colorado when it started having this problem, they replace the resister and connector and it has worked for several years. At least up until now. I replaced the resistor this time and it was good for a week and started up again. I decided to have a look at the splices for the new connector and all four showed signs of severe overheating (burnt on both ends).
I replaced the splices and I still have nothing.
I checked the fuse and it is fine.
I have cleaned the Ground splice (black box connection), but I still don't have a good ground (check from orange to a bare metal spot), so I took it off again and this time I used my Dremel and did a bit of grinding, and don't you know that it worked this time.

THANKS EVERYONE for all the advice.
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Last edited by grandall77; 03-09-2014 at 06:58 PM.
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post #443 of 460 (permalink) Old 03-09-2014, 11:24 PM
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might help

I had a problem with my dad riding shotgun with size 15 shoe knocking my resistor harness around so it melted some of the plastic around the prongs. so what I did is bought a new blower motor resistor connector from napa and wired it into the old wires with fully insulated disconnect connectors just incase someones feet get back up in there .. and its working great./

note that the new style plug comes with a gasket so this problem will not happen again .. trust me this connector is hard to get in meaning it wont budge at all.. hope it helps..
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post #444 of 460 (permalink) Old 03-10-2014, 05:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grandall77 View Post
**snip **
I have cleaned the Ground splice (black box connection), but I still don't have a good ground (check from orange to a bare metal spot), so I took it off again and this time I used my Dremel and did a bit of grinding, and don't you know that it worked this time.
This is why I suggest using a start or tooth washer between the body and the tab on the black box. The teeth bite into both the tab and the sheet metal when the bolt is tightened.

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post #445 of 460 (permalink) Old 04-27-2014, 02:36 PM
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04 Colorado

I went to replace the resistor and the harness from GM. But when I unhooked the blower harness from the body harness, it too was melted.... Anyone else have this happen? If so did you find a connector anywhere besides a junkyard?
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post #446 of 460 (permalink) Old 04-27-2014, 03:36 PM
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Can you be more specific as to what was melted? Pictures?

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post #447 of 460 (permalink) Old 04-27-2014, 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Arizonican View Post
I went to replace the resistor and the harness from GM. But when I unhooked the blower harness from the body harness, it too was melted.... Anyone else have this happen? If so did you find a connector anywhere besides a junkyard?
to C'Fans

It sure would help if you would provide some info regarding the vehicle that you are talking about. Apparently Extremity's crystal ball batteries are also dead. With that said, if you are referring to the 10 pin connector, there are replacement components available that come with pigtail wires installed. The part numbers for the female are PT1364 (15306309) and the male PT1360 (15306305). You can identify them by searching the PT1364 & PT1360 numbers on Amazon, where they have pictures. If you need the male half of the connector, get it from rockauto.com. The Amazon price is way out of line. The above information is based on the unconfirmed assumption that the connectors are the same for all 2004-2012 trucks. If the connector that you need is a different one, you will need to post more info.
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post #448 of 460 (permalink) Old 05-17-2014, 07:14 PM
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Turned on the blower, cab started filling up with acrid smoke.. my eyes started tearing, the smell was terrible. Turned off the blower, got home and pulled the resistor. Pin B was completely gone..
Ordered a new resistor and connector end with 4 splices in a single kit from amazon for $24.78 shipped.

Here's the link to the kit:
Amazon Amazon

Here's a pic:
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post #449 of 460 (permalink) Old 11-21-2014, 12:20 AM
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Resistor replaced with push on sockets rather than connector

Started with only position 4 working on the heater. In reading through this thread, I decided to replace the resistor, even though the original probably still works... as at least one pin was severely burned, and I thought would start fresh. Used 4 blue 1/8 inch crimp push-on spring separate sockets, as suggested earlier, rather than a new aftermarket g.m. socket that was available over the counter here, which appeared to be no better than the original. The push on sockets took considerable force with a pair of needle nose pliers to install...so they appear to make very good contact. Red sockets were too small for the wires... must be (blue) ones sized for 16/14 wire. I still wonder if I should have soldered them as well as crimping.
Net result... all speeds of the heater now work.
Note: Glove box came out easily with 3 -7 mm bolts on front below the box, Resistor has two 5.5mm bolts. Whole fix took only a few minutes. A second trip to the parts store for the right size socket connectors took longer.
Thanks to everyone for all the information on this forum thread. Alan

2004 Colorado 4x4 LS Ext cab.
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post #450 of 460 (permalink) Old 12-10-2014, 11:27 PM
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I am extremely interested in your results. I agree, with everything I have heard on this problem, I believe that it is indeed a design flaw. I thank you very much for putting all this extra time in on this!
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post #451 of 460 (permalink) Old 06-27-2015, 09:55 PM
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Thanks everyone. Nice to have #3 back.
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post #452 of 460 (permalink) Old 06-28-2015, 02:35 PM
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to C'Fans.

That looks familiar.
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post #453 of 460 (permalink) Old 07-02-2015, 03:13 PM
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Blower only works on high. resistor and connector seem fine

04 Colorado


So ive been watching the videos and reading the forums and it seems that everyone who has had this problem has apparent burnt out connectors. However, my connectors and resistor still look like theyre in new condition. I also cleaned off the grounding area (not sure what its called) that is under the hood and still only the highest setting works. Could my resistor and wiring harness still be bad even though they look okay? I don't want to buy new parts and have it not be the problem. If anyone has any other theories as to why my blower wont work properly please let me know. Thanks!
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post #454 of 460 (permalink) Old 07-02-2015, 04:17 PM
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An internal failure in the resistor module can cause the problem that you are experiencing. Resistor module, part number 89018331. About $12 at a Dealer. Not worth buying online, due to shipping charges. Easy to replace, two screws and a connector.

It could also be the switch in the HVAC Control Module, but the Resistor Module is more likely at fault.

Last edited by cart7881; 07-02-2015 at 04:21 PM.
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post #455 of 460 (permalink) Old 10-01-2015, 02:46 PM
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resister and wiring harness

It's a simple fix if you have only #4 speed and nothing else. Test it out first by looking at youtube, see where the parts are located, then see if by squeezing and moving the connection to the resistor you get the fan to work right. The resister and wiring harness will still need to be replaced as its connections get bad. Go to youtube and see how they are replaced. Then go to gmpartsdirect.com and get them.

NOTE: The parts are cheaper than at any dealer that MAY have them, but the postage is outrageous.
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post #456 of 460 (permalink) Old 02-21-2016, 08:40 PM
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First I'd like to say thank you for this thread. A friend of mine has been fighting this issue for quite some time. A couple months ago I replaced the resistor and harness and this took care of the problem. Then recently it went out again and nothing worked. After I found this thread I traced the problem to the burnt wire in the plug behind the passenger seat kick plate. I cut both off and spliced them and the heater fan is working again. The only thing is there is no light for the AC recirculator button on the blower faceplate. I'm also thinking it might be a good idea to pull the ground box out and splice those wires as something caused the heat to burn the plug.
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post #457 of 460 (permalink) Old 06-07-2016, 04:49 PM
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Check the ground gang behind your air cleaner. found out which wire it was, clipped it from the gang and put a terminal end on it, then I put the gang ground bolt back through it and tightened it down. Problem solved. I bet this is the root cause of this whole problem..
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post #458 of 460 (permalink) Old 06-11-2016, 10:27 AM
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Hey guys, I replaced the resistor, the wiring, and I scraped the paint away from the ground distribution point, but my blower still doesn't work. But thats not the only thing. On my way to work, I noticed that the Cruise Control, the four wheel drive buttons, and the A/C don't work since i replaced the wiring. any ideas?
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post #459 of 460 (permalink) Old 06-11-2016, 02:48 PM
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Go back an recheck the ground point. The one behind the air filter case. You may have to open up the splice box to check the condition of the terminals. While you have the mount bolt removed, pull LIGHTLY on the wires to check to see if any are broken inside. The box is only held together by two molded in catches that you can see. Pry it open with a small screwdriver. It may take a little effort to separate the halves as you will be dealing with the friction of the terminals. Might be a good idea to clean with contact cleaner and apply some dielectric lube while you have it apart.



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post #460 of 460 (permalink) Old 04-12-2017, 02:42 PM
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Parts # have changed for these products

In the start of this thread, someone stated that the parts came as a "set". That is not true any longer and you must order them separately as I have just done. Also, the Parts #'s for both have changed. They are now as follows...

Resistor Part Number: 15218254 $11.39 (as of 04/12/2017)
Harness Part Number: 89019303 $33.42 (as of 04/12/2017)

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