HVAC Fan Motor: Resistor & Connector replacement (MMP) - Page 3 - Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon
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post #41 of 460 (permalink) Old 12-06-2007, 08:41 PM
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UPDATE:

I replaced just the resistor and now everything is back running again. Cheap fix only $15 up here in Canada.
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post #42 of 460 (permalink) Old 12-11-2007, 02:30 PM
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Mine had been working intermittently for weeks. 2 days ago, it gave up completely--nice, when the MN temp is hanging around zero at night. I work in retail, and I just don't have time at this time of year to mess with it, so I went to the dealer. $218 later, I'm fixed. I asked for the old parts, and they did exactly what was shown here on this thread. Anybody heard anymore about Chev recalling, or at least paying, for this repair? I am at 53k miles, so the warranty is long gone.
Merry Christmas!

Eric in MN
Recently retired my 2004 Silver Birch Crew Cab, Z-71 4x4
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post #43 of 460 (permalink) Old 12-14-2007, 07:27 PM
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All 3 parts?

So if I want to do this myself with no splicing I need all 3 of these parts?

Resistor - p/n 15218254 $8.59*
Connector - p/n 15306069 $30.70*
Complete wiring harness - p/n 89019124 $20 * (no splicing required)

Cheers,
Eric with 04 Colorado

2004 Colorado
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post #44 of 460 (permalink) Old 12-25-2007, 08:49 AM
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I'm having the same problem! Is there a GM bulletin out on this issue? Do you think I should try to get the dealership to fix it, depsite no warranty?

For those of you who attempted to fix yourself, whats the latest status...is everything still working?

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post #45 of 460 (permalink) Old 12-26-2007, 01:33 AM
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I've also had this problem with only setting 4 working 2X, both times the dealer replaced the resistor and the last time they replaced the connector all under warrenty.
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post #46 of 460 (permalink) Old 12-31-2007, 11:45 PM
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There's got to be something wrong with this component, I have just found this page from another forum looking for the same exact information. Mine went out about 5k miles ago (which would put it right at 40k). I'll pull the resistor out tomorrow and see if it's really fried, but from reading the other's posts here, I'm sure it will be.

MegaTHANX to DBNissan for pointing me here!
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post #47 of 460 (permalink) Old 01-01-2008, 05:43 AM
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to cFans Cyre! Glad you made it over here!


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post #48 of 460 (permalink) Old 01-01-2008, 11:36 AM
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Thanx!! I dunno why this forum didn't turn up on my Google search last week when I first started looking for this problem but this looks like a great forum! I'll have to spend lots of time looking around.

I just pulled the resistor out and while it's not looking like the really burnt one in the image above, I do see darkening of the plastic around pins B and C. I'll just go ahead and order a new resistor and give it a try.

Does anyone know what I should read on the multimeter at the pins of the harness with the fan switch in the 4 settings? I could check the harness and order it if I need one.
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post #49 of 460 (permalink) Old 01-01-2008, 01:57 PM
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Cyre,

That's when my fan switch starting acting up on my Canyon at 40K. Coincidence, I think not... There should be a TSB or something out on this problem.
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post #50 of 460 (permalink) Old 01-01-2008, 03:08 PM Thread Starter
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A friend of mine is replacing his resistor on his 2003 Silverado HD (no 1-3 setting on HVAC fan)... It is not limited to our trucks!
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post #51 of 460 (permalink) Old 01-01-2008, 09:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Canyon08Z71
A friend of mine is replacing his resistor on his 2003 Silverado HD (no 1-3 setting on HVAC fan)... It is not limited to our trucks!
Nope, not limited to this truck at all. However, it is a GM exclusive!

I've had it on my 2 S10s and my WS6 T/A


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post #52 of 460 (permalink) Old 01-01-2008, 10:16 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DBNissan
Quote:
Originally Posted by Canyon08Z71
A friend of mine is replacing his resistor on his 2003 Silverado HD (no 1-3 setting on HVAC fan)... It is not limited to our trucks!
Nope, not limited to this truck at all. However, it is a GM exclusive!

I've had it on my 2 S10s and my WS6 T/A
I love it!! At least we all sound smart to other owners.. "Oh yeah, it is the resistor, blah blah blah"!!
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post #53 of 460 (permalink) Old 01-15-2008, 10:54 AM
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I had the same situation as you guys, could only use fan speeds 2 & 4. After reading all of the posts in this thread, I set out to look at mine. I took the plug, and removed it to find light browning on 2 of the plugs. I reciprocated the plug in the socket and turned my truck back on, and it worked.

Deal with mine is that the plug is loose in the socket, causing it to loose contact. I'm going to see if they can repair this when they repair the rest of my truck, after I hit a deer the other night ... hope this helps some.
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post #54 of 460 (permalink) Old 01-23-2008, 05:19 PM
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2005 i5

Quote:
Originally Posted by mwlebbin
I have to admit that it is ridiculous to get rid of the truck but there have been other issues. I was just venting. I would think GM would have a recall on that due to a potential fire hazard???

Other issues --

- rattles, they finally found that it was a loose bracket under the hood.

- the fuse box has had to be replaced,

- the dash has gone "dark" and I don't mean just the lights, the tach shows "0" the speedomter "0" fuel gauge shows empty, and the temp gauge goes to cold. then when you hit the turn signal it all turns back on.

- This fan problem

Other than that it has been ok :). Plus the other factor is I am driving about 80-100 miles a day and have been tempted to get a little Vibe and then get a beater truck for around town.

That was my frustration there... most likely I won't get rid of it.. but between the wife and I we are spending 25-30$ a day in gas :(..

Another question -- I treat this truck well. Use Mobile one synthetic etc etc... how many miles are we expected to get out of these I5's? If I keep it (which I am leaning towards) I am hoping to get 150-175k miles. Is this reasonable?

Thanks... great forum.. I felt much better knowing that others were havingthis problem.


Mark





mwlebbin wrote:
This is happening on my 2005 Canyon. The fan will cycle different speeds on 1-3 but works fine on #4. I am in the process of working with the dealer. I have 45k miles on the truck. But they are going to fix it because I was complaining about this WAY before 36k miles.

I am half tempted to get rid of this truck.

Thanks,

Mark


Toss the truck for a $40 repair and 20 minutes of repair time? Confused

I hope you have some other issues that brought you to that decision..




i have the same problem now sometimes 1,2,3 dont work for about 10 minutes as 4 works ok. i have 159000k on my truck. was 26k when i got it.





Smile
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post #55 of 460 (permalink) Old 05-04-2008, 01:25 PM
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Re: HVAC Fan Motor: Resistor & Connector replacement (MMP)

Thanks for the thread and the support. My fan switch (1-3) went out @ 60K. Ordered the Resistor - p/n 15218254 $8.59 &
Connector - p/n 15306069 $30.70. Much better than taking it to my stealership. I would have to take the instructions from this forum to them to make certain that they fixed it right. Quicker, better and cheaper to do it myself.

THANKS FOR THE HELP!

WDEagle

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post #56 of 460 (permalink) Old 05-04-2008, 03:12 PM Thread Starter
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Re: HVAC Fan Motor: Resistor & Connector replacement (MMP)

Quote:
Originally Posted by WDEagle
Thanks for the thread and the support. My fan switch (1-3) went out @ 60K. Ordered the Resistor - p/n 15218254 $8.59 &
Connector - p/n 15306069 $30.70. Much better than taking it to my stealership. I would have to take the instructions from this forum to them to make certain that they fixed it right. Quicker, better and cheaper to do it myself.

THANKS FOR THE HELP!

WDEagle
Good news bro! :) Thanks for posting feedback on the MMP write up.
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post #57 of 460 (permalink) Old 05-12-2008, 08:25 PM
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Re: HVAC Fan Motor: Resistor & Connector replacement (MMP)

My '05 Z85 LS just had this problem (but the connector and pins were not burnt), so I bought the replacement resistor. Being the inquisitive type, I decided to investigate (reverse-engineer, if you will) this part. What I found was the following:

The thermal cutoff is connected from pin 'C' on the connector to the common point of three wire-wound resistors. I think it is a 240-degree C cutoff (just a guess, based on the part markings).
The lowest resistance winding goes to pin 'B', and corresponds to motor speed '3'. This resistance should be 0.20 ohms.
The medium resistance winding (0.92 ohms) goes to pin 'A' (speed '2').
The high resistance winding (2.77 ohms) goes to pin 'D' (speed '1').

The resistances above correspond to the markings on the front of the resistor assembly. The actual measurements I got were slightly higher (by about 0.3 ohms), most likely due to lead resistance and the accuracy of my ohmmeter (I have an old Fluke 75 that hasn't been calibrated in a while). At any rate, an ohmmeter will show 'OL' if the thermal fuse or one or more of the resistors fail. A good unit will give resistance readings close to the values above when the ohmmeter is connected between pin 'C' and the other pins. I tried to attach a PDF file of the schematic I drew, but I was unable to do so.

Tomorrow, I plan to install the replacement in my truck and take voltage and/or current readings at each speed setting, so that I can try and resolve this problem once and for all. That is, if anyone is interested. I see from these forums that many of you have experienced this problem, and some have replaced the blower motor resistor several times. That points to a possible design flaw, either in the connector, the power handling capability of the resistors (i.e. wattage), or the blower motor windings themselves. I'm not sure that I can come up with a solution, but I'm willing to try.

I'll post my results if anyone is interested.

It is my understanding that Chevrolet put out a TSB after an investigation of this problem, but I don't have access to it currently (I have ordered it).

Black '05 Z85 LS 4x4
Extended cab
Homemade cold air intake
After-market remote door locks (I hated having to get in the truck first to open the door for my lovely wife)


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post #58 of 460 (permalink) Old 05-12-2008, 11:33 PM Thread Starter
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Re: HVAC Fan Motor: Resistor & Connector replacement (MMP)

I am interested in your findings, SeeClamp. By all means, use this thread to share whatever you want in regards to the resistor problem.
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post #59 of 460 (permalink) Old 05-13-2008, 01:26 PM
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Re: HVAC Fan Motor: Resistor & Connector replacement (MMP)

Ok Canyon, I'll be glad to. I'm going to have to postpone my tests for a couple of days though, due to illness. I'll post them as sson as I can.

Black '05 Z85 LS 4x4
Extended cab
Homemade cold air intake
After-market remote door locks (I hated having to get in the truck first to open the door for my lovely wife)


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post #60 of 460 (permalink) Old 05-17-2008, 03:02 PM
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Re: HVAC Fan Motor: Resistor & Connector replacement (MMP)

OK, here are the results of my tests on the Blower Resistor Assy. in my '05 Colorado:

For all speeds, the motor draws about 3.1 amps through each resistor. Using Ohms Law for Power (P = I^2 * R):

For Blower Speed 1:
3.1A * 3.1A * 2.77 ohms = 26.6 Watts !!!

For Blower Speed 2:
3.1A * 3.1A * 0.92 ohms = 8.84 Watts

For Blower Speed 3:
3.1A * 3.1A * 0.20 ohms = 1.92 Watts

What this means (in my humble opinion) is that when the resistor assembly is running at its hottest (blower speed 1), the velocity of the air blowing over it is at its lowest, providing minimal cooling of the resistor pack at best, and (in the case of my truck) causing the thermal cutoff to open, thus rendering blower speeds 1, 2, and 3 inoperative (the thermal cutoff is in series with the resistors).

I have not seen GM's TSB on their investigation of this problem, so I don't know what their solution (if any) to this problem was. However, I think that as a minimum, you should check to make sure that the connector pins on the resistor assembly form a tight connection with the plug, and if not, replace the harness. I also think it might be a good idea to investigate adding some sort of heat sink to help dissipate some of that heat at the lowest blower speed, but I don't know what may be available that will fit this assembly. If I find anything that may help, I will post it here. Has anyone seen the aforementioned TSB?

If one desires to replace the resistor assembly with a "homemade" version, it is good design practice to select wirewound resistors that are of a wattage rating at least twice the numbers given above.

Black '05 Z85 LS 4x4
Extended cab
Homemade cold air intake
After-market remote door locks (I hated having to get in the truck first to open the door for my lovely wife)


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