Front Brake Rotor Removal - Page 4 - Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon
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post #61 of 79 (permalink) Old 08-31-2009, 07:21 PM
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Re: Front Brake Rotor Removal

Hey guys, I thought I read on this forum that you had to buy the whole hub assembly because you could not get the ABS sensor on 4WD. Can I purchase the front ABS sensor without the hub??? Thanks
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post #62 of 79 (permalink) Old 09-01-2009, 04:26 AM
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Re: Front Brake Rotor Removal

I can't recall but you could call your local dealer parts dept and find out.

Izzy 2005 Black CrewCab SS wannabe
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post #63 of 79 (permalink) Old 09-08-2009, 09:37 PM
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Re: Front Brake Rotor Removal

Quote:
Originally Posted by fbody4life
I found it easier to take the four bolts holding the hub on almost completely off then putting a small 2x4 on it and hitting the bolts all the way around. It loosens the hub enough to take off by hand. And the hub will only go as far as the bolt so no damaged parts unless you miss the 2x4 and hit your sensor.
I just did my brakes and rotors today and I used this basic concept but what A PAIN IN THE ASS. The engineers must have had a bad night before they sat down at the drawing board that day. I've done well over a thousand brake jobs in my life and this was by far the worst experience I've had with removing front rotors. Why didn't they just make the rotors as slip-ons or bolt-ons over the hub.
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post #64 of 79 (permalink) Old 09-08-2009, 11:26 PM
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Re: Front Brake Rotor Removal

my chevy silverado was so easy to change rotors.if mine need replaced i think i will not tackle it,i like to try things but its hard on my legs/back to sit and do these things like i used too.my mechanic said he will do it at my home for 100 dollars ,so if i am still in business thats way i will go.

yet i feel i want to try it ,i like working on trucks.....
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post #65 of 79 (permalink) Old 10-02-2009, 02:22 PM
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Re: Front Brake Rotor Removal

Lots of good info here.

'71 Chevy C10 LWB "LOW DOUGH"

'69 Chevy C10 LWB "Parts Truck"

'06 GMC CANYON Z85 "Daily Driver"
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post #66 of 79 (permalink) Old 07-28-2010, 08:16 PM
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Re: Front Brake Rotor Removal

I have a 2006 GMC Canyon that I changed the rotors on today. Took maybe two hours. I went into it with only the knowledge I had read on this board the past few days and I say it was not difficult. Not easy, but not difficult. The toughest part was getting the rotor off. Using a block of wood between the rotor and frame and then turning the steering wheel made it easy though. Need two people for that.

After reading so much about abs faults I was paranoid as shit about breaking the abs sensor. But that too was easy. I disconnected the sensor from the gray connector hidden in the back, and disconnected it all the way down to the back of the rotor. Popped the rotor with the wood block while turning the wheel and used a screwdriver to pry out the black metal ring that is the sensor.

I did not remove the steering knuckle. Didn't seem necessary.

Taking the hub off the rotor and reassembly was easy.

I reseated the black metal sensor ring on the back of the rotor with the wood block and a hammer after reattaching the rotor. No abs faults. (Sweet!)

I think the key is to disconnect the abs sensor wire up to the back of the rotor before doing anything, and don't let the rotor fall allowing it to jerk the sensor wire.

I threw in new pads too. I will never pay to get brakes done again. I laughed at how simple changing the pads was.

I used Wagner rotors and pads. From what I've heard they are a reputable American manufacturer.

The only other thing I would say is to be equipped with an array of metric sockets, a breaker bar and a friend, as well as the earlier mentioned wood block.

I definitely could not have done this with such ease without all of the awesome info I found here. Thanks to everyone who helped!

Now to tackle the blower resistor and connector. But that's for another thread...
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post #67 of 79 (permalink) Old 07-28-2010, 11:25 PM
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Re: Front Brake Rotor Removal

someone needs to make cd of how to do it step by step. i would pay for one...
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post #68 of 79 (permalink) Old 08-01-2010, 10:01 PM
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Re: Front Brake Rotor Removal

Try it yourself, without it. At the least, have your laptop next to you with this page to reference. Once you get the tire off and look at whats going on, it's pretty straight forward. You have to take one piece off at a time before you can remove the next. You need sockets to remove everything.

If you've built anything before, a shed, or deck, or put anything together before, a swing set, a bicycle, a home theatre system, I would venture to say you could probably handle this diy. That is saying you have the few tools you need.
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post #69 of 79 (permalink) Old 08-30-2010, 05:42 AM
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Re: Front Brake Rotor Removal

Thomasj_w,

Excuse me for chirping in here but I have a similar question.

I attempted to replace my rotors but could not get the old ones off. Did you need a wheel puller? I figured that if the old one is that hard to get off, will the new one need to be pressed on? I asked my mechanic and he looked up the repair time on his computer... it told him 5 hours labor and it involves disconnecting the steering knuckle. (cha-ching...!) Now I am not sure what to do. Any advice will help. My Colorado is 4x4. Your point about disconnecting the abs sensor is well taken. Thanks. - Len
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post #70 of 79 (permalink) Old 08-30-2010, 10:52 AM
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Re: Front Brake Rotor Removal

i think someone shows how to take rotors off without taking off knuckle.it was over on the another forun called CHEVY NATION or something like that .he showed a way to not disconnect the knuckle.
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post #71 of 79 (permalink) Old 09-07-2010, 05:45 PM
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Re: Front Brake Rotor Removal

I have the rotor off the truck now, but with my impact wrench I have only been able to remove two of the six bolts. I have a 1/2 in 90psi wrench. Any suggestions?
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post #72 of 79 (permalink) Old 11-01-2010, 03:50 PM
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Re: Front Brake Rotor Removal

1/2 Impact with more than 90 psi works fine. I just pulled both sides, turned the rotors and put new pads on.. What a PIA!!! You can tell this truck isn't all GM, I felt like I was working in a Isuzu or.... oh yeah, I WAS. I love my Canyon but, wow, this whole brake setup is a disappointment on the maintenance scale... What used to be 1.5 hours is now 3! I read some earlier posts about pulling the spindle to do this job, might be necessary on the 4x4 but it isn't on the 2wd.

Tom
07 Canyon Ext Cab 3.7
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post #73 of 79 (permalink) Old 08-21-2011, 12:29 AM
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Smile Wheel Hub Removal to replace rotors

Hey guys, I've been seeing all the different methods everyone has been using to get their hub out. Just wanted to add how I finally got mine out. Advance Auto Parts has their Autocraft 6" Heavy Duty 2 Jaw Gear Puller for $25 so I tried that after getting all the attachment hardware out. It pushes the axle in a bit but once the axle stops moving the pressure builds up enough and pops the hub off the steering knuckle. No damage to the ABS sensor but plenty of corrosion and dirt and rust to clean up after. Thanks for all posts. Check out the link.
Buy Autocraft 2 Jaw Gear Puller 6 inch Ampere AC582/W84501 at Advance Auto Parts
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post #74 of 79 (permalink) Old 08-27-2011, 06:32 PM
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Find a dealer thats has a power on truck brake lathe save time and money
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post #75 of 79 (permalink) Old 08-31-2011, 09:39 AM
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Rotors can be turn on truck with on vehicle brake lathe. Cheap
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post #76 of 79 (permalink) Old 09-13-2011, 05:33 PM
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Friend story that had damaged the wheel hub rolineras driver's side, and the abs sensor on the passenger side of a mechanic to change the disc brakes broke the sensor cable,,,

The hub driver's side the new AC Delco # buy fw230mx,,, when installing I noticed that it was the left side, look online at the part number and it was true, the right is # fw231mx,, as the hub comes with the sensor once installed again, but by comparing the sensor is the q is on the passenger side and not the side that was purchased,



to resolve the situation so did what next,,, remove the wheel hub on the passenger side and put the driver's side is, change the front passenger hub for the pilot's side, which hize then , as the sensor on the passenger side is damaged, remove the ring and place the wheel hub of the pilot was injured and put the sensor hub to hub damaged on the passenger side to change next to the pilot with the sensor ,,,,, on this side and then proceeded to place the new cube with side sensor rightful ..



That is, the damaged wheel hub side of the pilot will pull the abs sensor and place it to the wheel hub to remove the passenger to put on the pilot's side by placing the sensor hub damaged ..

all this to avoid taking the wheel hub sensor again and so inadvertently damage, .. and then place the bucket back to the passenger side.



When you turn the car and threw no ABS fault error on the board, went out to test the brakes and started to sound the wheel of the pilot, where he had the old sensor pads as if they jumped over the disk, after about 1 km you remove the pedal vibration when braking, but he lit on the board again and now abs light also appears worse because the brake light ,.....



it can be,,, be I can stay without brakes? q q is known then reregister abs failure on the board to stop the car again normally ,,,.....



I can do ...
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post #77 of 79 (permalink) Old 10-01-2016, 05:45 PM
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Have a 2006 I5 4 door. Brakes were making noise, I wanted to replace pads and rotors, but I couldn't get the wheel hub off, so i just put the pads on so I would have some brakes until I can get back in there. I wish I would have come here first! Now I know what may work for me. I'm going to try popping it off with the wood block steering method. If that doesn't work I'm going to look into the hubbuster tool.
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post #78 of 79 (permalink) Old 10-01-2016, 07:22 PM
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That's big expense for a one time job.
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post #79 of 79 (permalink) Old 10-08-2016, 05:20 PM
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Can't find a replacement rotor that fits. Ordered on line on eBay, got everything ready and did the job, however putting the caliper back on was impossible. it was too thick to re-install, whaaaatttt is going on. So I go to the local Advance Auto and got a second set of rotors thinking the replacements I got from eBay were not the right ones, and guess what, same thing, the calipers wouldn't fit. At this point I'm here looking for an answer. I'm returning all the parts because they won't go on my truck, I have a one of a kind Chevy Colorado 4X4 with 4 doors, and crapy brakes. I'm glad I have Monday off, I'm going to trade it in for a Toyota Tacoma, something that is dependable, no weird dash errors and ridiculous endless issues. I hate this truck so much I can't describe the feeling. If anybody ever asked me if I recommend this truck i would ask if they want to read the book on why not own a Colorado.
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