No Heat - Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon
 
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-15-2009, 09:14 PM Thread Starter
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No Heat

My Mom has an '08 Colorado and I'm trying to help my Dad to identify her no heat problem. It don't sound like the resistor/ connector problem that I'm having on my truck. He sait that all four fan speeds work at all times, but she's not getting hot air. He said that when he switches the thermostat back & forth from hot to cold he gets "lukewarm" air. Any clues as to what the culprit might be?

-Augie

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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-15-2009, 09:36 PM
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Re: No Heat

Do you have a Scangauge or something to get the Water Temperature? Might be a thermostat stuck open so the engine doesn't get warm. Short trips in cold weather? What's the temp. gauge at when the truck's running?
(Sorry for the questions to answer your question but I think we need more info)

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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-15-2009, 10:06 PM Thread Starter
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Re: No Heat

I have a scangauge that I can plug into her OBD latwer this week. I'll give that a try. If the water temp doesn't get to where it should be, I'll assume that the thermostat is the problem. Thanks.

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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-15-2009, 10:09 PM
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Re: No Heat

i know exactly what the problem is....

take the radio bezel off, and then take the HVAC controls out, there is a white plastic piece on the back of it where the bicycle type wire has a triangular mount, it has probably popped out of that plastic piece that holds it stationary...the knob still turns, but never shifts the flapper to heat....
i just had the same problem a couple wks ago

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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-15-2009, 10:15 PM Thread Starter
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Re: No Heat

Quote:
Originally Posted by rtmsu_02
i know exactly what the problem is....

take the radio bezel off, and then take the HVAC controls out, there is a white plastic piece on the back of it where the bicycle type wire has a triangular mount, it has probably popped out of that plastic piece that holds it stationary...the knob still turns, but never shifts the flapper to heat....
i just had the same problem a couple wks ago

Ok awesome, I'm sending a link to my Dad to follow this thread. The replies so far should help him to narrow the problem down. I'll post up when we figure out what the solution actually is. we appreciate the help. :D

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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-15-2009, 10:34 PM
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Re: No Heat

Quote:
Originally Posted by Augsdoggs
Quote:
Originally Posted by rtmsu_02
i know exactly what the problem is....

take the radio bezel off, and then take the HVAC controls out, there is a white plastic piece on the back of it where the bicycle type wire has a triangular mount, it has probably popped out of that plastic piece that holds it stationary...the knob still turns, but never shifts the flapper to heat....
i just had the same problem a couple wks ago

Ok awesome, I'm sending a link to my Dad to follow this thread. The replies so far should help him to narrow the problem down. I'll post up when we figure out what the solution actually is. we appreciate the help. :D
If that's the problem, you should be able to notice without even pulling the cover off the HVAC controls, there will be absolutely no resistance when you turn the temp dial.

Hopefully that's it :)


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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-16-2009, 10:10 AM
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Re: No Heat

In the mean time, apply the sheet of cardboard remedy, just keep an eye on the temperature gauge..

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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-16-2009, 12:05 PM
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Re: No Heat

One of four things listed in order of probability:

A heater control problem. The fix was was described previously in this thread.

A thermostat problem. If the driver / owner knows where the temperature gauge normally reads simply look at the gauge and see if it is much lower than normal. Mine is up to full temperature in less than 5 miles when the outside temperature is 10 degrees F. If it isn't up to normal after 5 miles then it is probably a thermostat problem.

Low on coolant. Check the coolant level in the radiator not just in the overflow bottle.

Plugged heater core. This is very common on GM vehicles since they started using Dexcool antifreeze. If the coolant has ever been low and air got into the system, Dexcool will crystalize and plug up things. The first thing to plug up is the heater core. You can fill up the system and backflush the heater core with a garden hose. If this is your issue, I would some time in the near future dump the Dexcool (AKA Death-Cool), flush the entire system with a good cleaner, and refill it with a good non-Dexcool antifreeze. There have been lots of law suits against GM over Dexcool crystallization and lost engines.

The above are my best guesses. You mileage may vary.

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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-16-2009, 03:22 PM
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Re: No Heat

08 should not have DEATHCOOL problem as she would not have miles on it to cause problem.also always put the DEXCOOL back in ,not green stuff.just change the anti-freeze every 3 years and not let it go beyond that,i do mine every 2 yrs as its cheap and i do it myself.
i had DEATHCOOL problem bigtime in my chevy silverado 4.3 liter v-6.no way i will ever let DEXCOOL in my truck past 3 yrs.
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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-16-2009, 03:26 PM
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Re: No Heat

Quote:
Originally Posted by naskie18
Quote:
Originally Posted by Augsdoggs
Quote:
Originally Posted by rtmsu_02
i know exactly what the problem is....

take the radio bezel off, and then take the HVAC controls out, there is a white plastic piece on the back of it where the bicycle type wire has a triangular mount, it has probably popped out of that plastic piece that holds it stationary...the knob still turns, but never shifts the flapper to heat....
i just had the same problem a couple wks ago

Ok awesome, I'm sending a link to my Dad to follow this thread. The replies so far should help him to narrow the problem down. I'll post up when we figure out what the solution actually is. we appreciate the help. :D
If that's the problem, you should be able to notice without even pulling the cover off the HVAC controls, there will be absolutely no resistance when you turn the temp dial.

Hopefully that's it :)

very goodpoint, may save him tearing off things.he should be able to FEEL if its opening /closing in there thru the dial feeling.
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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-01-2010, 03:00 PM
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Re: No Heat

Quote:
Originally Posted by rtmsu_02
take the radio bezel off, and then take the HVAC controls out, there is a white plastic piece on the back of it where the bicycle type wire has a triangular mount, it has probably popped out of that plastic piece that holds it stationary...the knob still turns, but never shifts the flapper to heat....
Thanks for this info. I have no heat (though both heater core hoses were hot). Was searching and found this thread. As naskie18 suggested, I checked the dial and it indeed had resistance when I was turning it, so I thought it wasn't this problem. I pulled the control unit out anyway and verified that it was hooked up. I could see it moving the cable back and forth when I turned the knob. However, I traced the cable to the other end, behind the glove box, and found that the loop in the cable had popped off the white plastic peg. Thus it wasn't actually adjusting the flapper. Very simple fix. Thanks for the info.
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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-02-2010, 12:20 AM
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Re: No Heat

I'm happy you found your problem and it was not the dreaded DEATHCOOL problem.

The Deathcool problem occurs when air gets into the cooling system. This can happen at any mileage or age of coolant. It usually happens due to a bad radiator cap, a cracked overflow bottle, or a leaking hose between the radiator and the overflow bottle. Blown head gaskets can also cause this.

If you are concerned, dump the Deathcool and go to the green stuff. You can get green stuff that is good for 5 years just like Deathcool. I do not run Deathcool in any of my vehicles. I have had to clean too many vehicles for other people and it is not a fun or cheap job. Left for too long and it is replace/ rebuild the engine time. The risk is just not worth it to me.

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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-02-2010, 12:49 AM
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Re: No Heat

green stuff is not way too go.i read somewhere that it affects the motor do to different chemicals.
i had DEATHCOOL before.
what i do now is dump the DEXCOOL out every 3 years depending on milegae.ifr a lot of miles i do it in 2 years.
not expensive to do it.but no way its staying in truck for over 3 years.
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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-03-2010, 05:06 AM
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Re: No Heat

As I said before, You can stay using Deathcool just do not let any air get into the system. Here are some good Deathcool pictures for you: http://www.sancarlosradiator.com/dex-cool_pics.htm

I have two 200,000 plus mile GM engines here that originally came with Deathcool. They are still running with no ill effects on "Green Stuff". I have a couple of others, including my Colorado, that have less that 100,000 miles on them using "Green Stuff".

I have friend that runs the maintenance operation for a large power utility. All company owned vehicles (cars, small trucks, and large trucks) have their cooling systems drained at the two year point and replaced with green stuff. After that the coolant is never replaced again because they usually do not go over 7 years total before they wear out and go the auction or junk yard. The exception is some special use low use equipment which is on a 5 year coolant replacement schedule. The only thing they have in the shop is low silicate green stuff which comes in 55 gallon drums.

BTW, "Green Stuff" is usually Ethylene Glycol Based. What you want is Low Silicate formula. Most "Green Stuff": sold today is low silicate with extended life corrosion inhibitors for aluminum engines. The usual reason for changing antifreeze is to replenish the worn out corrosion inhibitors and remove any contaminants.

If you want to a quick way to determine if your antifreeze is worn out is with a multimeter. Ground one lead and stick the other lead in warm (NOT HOT for safety reasons) coolant in the top of the radiator. If the meter reads .1 to .5 volts the antifreeze is OK. .6 to .7 volts the antifreeze is marginal. Anything .8 or over should be changed immediately.

Note:
The Power company also does not balance tires. They use balancing beads inside the tires. I have the same beads inside my motorhome, my trailers, and the rear winter tires that I use on my Colorado.

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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-03-2010, 05:39 PM
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Re: No Heat

so are you saying that there is problem with orange dexcool we now use?i drain mine every 3 years is what i was told too do.i had DEATHCOOL that ruined my radiator on 1998 chevy silverado with 4.3 liter engine.
we filled a bucket half full wqith bright yellow sand that came from it.

i read NOT to use green stuff as it does not protect 5 years like orange can.
are you saying thewy have green anti-freeze that does go 5 years?
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post #16 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-04-2010, 02:16 PM
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Re: No Heat

Deathcool has some very interesting positive attributes that make it ideal for a long life coolant. 5 year life is just one of them. It is an exclusive (patented I believe) by Havoline / Texaco. The BIG problem is when air gets into the system and the coolant is heated. It turns into a gritty sludge. There have been many, many lawsuits over damaged or destroyed engines because of it. GM has also replaced many engines over it.

The main problem is as vehicles age they tend to have things go wrong that allow air into the system. Radiator cap, hose to the over flow bottle and gasket leaks are the most common. Most cars under warranty have not experienced these leakage failures. If you are using Deathcool and have to add coolant for any reason, I would open the radiator cap (cold) and verify that the radiator is completely full. If it isn't. I would fill it on the spot and try to find the leak. I personally would dump the Deathcool and thoroughly flush the system ASAP. Then fill with 50% "Green Stuff until the leakage is problem is resolved. After that if you want to go back to Deathcool that is your choice. I personally do not use it.

Deathcool has been on the market since 1996 and the rest of the industry has caught up with their own long life coolants. There are now several "Green stuff" manufacturers that advertise a 5 year life. It is the rust/corrosion inhibitors used that determine the life of the antifreeze not the Ethylene Glycol. Simply read the bottle of the "Green Stuff" you plan to use and see what it's advertised life is. I believe WalMart's generic antifreeze advertises a 5 year life. I'll look for sure the next time I'm in there.

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post #17 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-04-2010, 02:44 PM
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Re: No Heat

i went on deathcool forum about 3 years ago .they were talking NOT to put the GREEN stuff in because it does not have the things in it to protect the newer engines.they said just flush radiaotr every 3 years or sooner.replace with DEXCOOL.
i agree with you, my leak was bottom radiator hose.also caps were defected but texaco said that and gm said it was bad anti freeze. both blamed each other.

i think i used 5 year wal-mart on my sisters car last month and it was CLEAR ,not green or orange but not sure on that ,i know it was not ORANGE.
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post #18 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-05-2010, 03:55 AM
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Re: No Heat

I used the term "Green Stuff" as a generic term for Ethylene Glycol that was NOT Dexcool. I have read that the color is a dye added to antifreeze. I also have read that some manufacturers are now using other non-standard colors. I am assuming from your posting that WalMart 's 5 year stuff is not green so they can differentiate their product from the standard Ethylene glycol product.

I am also a proponent of using only distilled water in the cooling system. You can buy it at Walmart for somewhere around $.80 per gallon.

Thanks for the information.

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post #19 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-05-2010, 11:39 PM
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Re: No Heat

yes, always use distilled water.
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post #20 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-03-2010, 08:22 AM
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Re: No Heat

Quote:
Originally Posted by Augsdoggs
My Mom has an '08 Colorado and I'm trying to help my Dad to identify her no heat problem. It don't sound like the resistor/ connector problem that I'm having on my truck. He sait that all four fan speeds work at all times, but she's not getting hot air. He said that when he switches the thermostat back & forth from hot to cold he gets "lukewarm" air. Any clues as to what the culprit might be?
Did you check the engine and the spark plugs?
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