How To: Rotor removal, No ABS problems, No alignment needed. - Page 2 - Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon
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post #21 of 70 (permalink) Old 04-21-2011, 08:06 PM
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Re: How To: Rotor removal, No ABS problems, No alignment needed.

[quote="fasterthanyours"]Hey I don't have a 4 x 4 Colorado, just 2WD. How do I go about getting the rotors off?

quote]

I would like to know the answer to this one as well. I have a 2wd non z71 and need to do my front brakes soon.

Red 2005 Colorado extended cab 2wd I-4 automatic.
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post #22 of 70 (permalink) Old 04-22-2011, 06:17 PM
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Re: How To: Rotor removal, No ABS problems, No alignment needed.

Quote:
21. IMPORTANT…. This is where I’m pretty sure people are reporting bad sensors, they fail to do this step. On the back of the hub is a metal ring with a wire attached to it. This is the ABS Sensor. You will notice you probably pulled it away some while removing the hub. The gap between the sensor and the magneto should be less than the thickness of a credit card. No problem. Place a flat piece of wood across it (not the wire though) and lightly tap it back into place. Take a q-tip or 10 and clean all around inside this ring.
I had a shop do mine last summer (wish I had this write up then) and have had intermittent ABS problems since...mostly when it rains...I suspect this is the problem.

Is step 21 something that can be done after the brake job is finished?
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post #23 of 70 (permalink) Old 06-02-2011, 09:53 PM
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Re: How To: Rotor removal, No ABS problems, No alignment needed.

good write up with pics, this will help me out alot
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post #24 of 70 (permalink) Old 06-25-2011, 04:19 PM
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Re: How To: Rotor removal, No ABS problems, No alignment needed.

What size socket is needed for the main nut? looks like 1-3/8 or 35mm. Deep well?
I tried to tackle the brakes today, and was suprised at the (poor) engineering requiring such major disassembly to swap a rotor....
Put new pads on, hopefully that's all I needed... We'll see.

Dave

Current: 2012 GMC Canyon SLE 4X4 Crew Cab
in the past: 2005 Colorado Z71 4x4 Crew Cab
5 cylinder 4 speed automatic
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post #25 of 70 (permalink) Old 08-24-2011, 01:44 PM
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so i did my brakes and rotors last night, and everything looked good until i drove my truck down the road. I noticed my steering wheel was crooked but still drives straight. Now i used the board method to pop off my rotor but i went from the wrong angle. and i applied quite a bit of force to pop it off, so, i am wondering if anyone has ever had this problem before or if all i need to do is get an alignment. Any help will be appreciated.

Thanks a lot

2006 Colorado Z71 4x4, 3.5 I5, Crew Cab
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post #26 of 70 (permalink) Old 08-24-2011, 01:47 PM
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35mm axle nut deep well for sure

2006 Colorado Z71 4x4, 3.5 I5, Crew Cab
Lifted Member #430
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post #27 of 70 (permalink) Old 08-27-2011, 06:29 PM
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Rotors can be turn on truck
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post #28 of 70 (permalink) Old 08-31-2011, 10:57 PM
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Nice write up.. but this is one of many reasons why I hate what the engineers did with the Colorado. The brake design sucks compared to the 4 wheel disk brake setup on the '98 - '04 S10 4x4's. Heck, I just changed my original OEM pads on my S10 ZR2 at 80K miles and still had 1/2 the pad left on the fronts and at least a 1/3 on the rears.

Dave B.

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post #29 of 70 (permalink) Old 09-13-2011, 04:57 PM
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problemmm abs

Friend story that had damaged the wheel hub rolineras driver's side, and the abs sensor on the passenger side of a mechanic to change the disc brakes broke the sensor cable,,,

The hub driver's side the new AC Delco # buy fw230mx,,, when installing I noticed that it was the left side, look online at the part number and it was true, the right is # fw231mx,, as the hub comes with the sensor once installed again, but by comparing the sensor is the q is on the passenger side and not the side that was purchased,



to resolve the situation so did what next,,, remove the wheel hub on the passenger side and put the driver's side is, change the front passenger hub for the pilot's side, which hize then , as the sensor on the passenger side is damaged, remove the ring and place the wheel hub of the pilot was injured and put the sensor hub to hub damaged on the passenger side to change next to the pilot with the sensor ,,,,, on this side and then proceeded to place the new cube with side sensor rightful ..



That is, the damaged wheel hub side of the pilot will pull the abs sensor and place it to the wheel hub to remove the passenger to put on the pilot's side by placing the sensor hub damaged ..

all this to avoid taking the wheel hub sensor again and so inadvertently damage, .. and then place the bucket back to the passenger side.



When you turn the car and threw no ABS fault error on the board, went out to test the brakes and started to sound the wheel of the pilot, where he had the old sensor pads as if they jumped over the disk, after about 1 km you remove the pedal vibration when braking, but he lit on the board again and now abs light also appears worse because the brake light ,.....



it can be,,, be I can stay without brakes? q q is known then reregister abs failure on the board to stop the car again normally ,,,.....



I can do ...
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post #30 of 70 (permalink) Old 10-25-2011, 09:51 PM
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Thank you very much for the detailed walk through!! It saved me a lot of trouble and time. However, I have one issue: After replacing the rotors on my 2004 Colorado, the ABS light is on and an "ABS Fault" & "Traction Fault" is on the dash display. Do the ABS sensors have to be positioned a certain way?
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post #31 of 70 (permalink) Old 10-27-2011, 03:08 PM
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I did this job today (replaced both wheel hubs inc. ABS sensors). I have a 2wd truck (2006).

I popped the hubs off a little differently. I loosened all 4 bolts holding the hub to the knuckle, then removed two and left 2 (kitty corners) about 1/8" loose. I then took a 15 MM socket and put it on the loose bolt and hit it with a hammer. I alternated from corner to corner and the hubs popped off easily this way. I also used some anti-seize on the knuckle on re-assembly to make future removal easier.

BTW there is no 35 MM nut to remove on the 2 wheel drive truck, since there is no drive axle going through the hub.

Eric
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post #32 of 70 (permalink) Old 07-25-2012, 03:17 AM
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may want to be careful with that as well. remember grease is your friend in some parts here. GM forgot to grease part behind my rotors so my ABS ring fused to my rotor. had to take a sledgehammer to get the rotors off and took the abs ring with it. nice hefty bill.
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post #33 of 70 (permalink) Old 10-23-2012, 01:15 AM
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accidente 4x4 tripoide y cubo de rueda piloto

my colorado 4x4 yesterday I locked the front wheel of the pilot was to verify the rolineras the lad who had been completely damaged and blow wheel lock, was luckily at low speed, to get the boy noticed that the oval tripoide tip was somewhat battered and worn in a way that goes inside the boy, not the tip clarify several rings or threads, but the smooth oval tripoide.

my question is? be that if I put the boy rolling with the characteristics of tripoide not hurt me the waiter?
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post #34 of 70 (permalink) Old 01-07-2013, 06:20 PM
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Nice write up!! I printed it off and used these steps to guide me through changing my front Wheel hub assembly. The ABS sensor was bad, throwing a code. What a nightmare of a job this is....went ahead and threw a new AC Delco brake rotor on while I had it apart. Rotor was only $32 on Amazon, shipped. Figured I might as well.

2005 Chevy Colorado Crew Cab, 4x4, 2.8L 4 cylinder
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post #35 of 70 (permalink) Old 03-17-2013, 02:17 PM
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This write up saved me so much time and money. Thanks a ton. Something that would help get the hub off is also a gear puller; once you pop it free after using the 2x4 then use the gear puller.
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post #36 of 70 (permalink) Old 03-17-2013, 06:34 PM
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I'm getting my rotors turned on the truck. Sounds like the way to go. Why go through all this? I have a slight warp so we should not have to cut too much.

2007 CANYON SLE EXT. CAB Z71 Off Road Susp.
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post #37 of 70 (permalink) Old 03-17-2013, 07:14 PM
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After going through all that work.. just replace them..

If they warped once.. as they always do.. they will warp again..

Price difference between machining and replace is minimal.

That is unless you are having them cut on the truck with a special lathe.. then maybe i could understand..
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post #38 of 70 (permalink) Old 04-11-2013, 09:19 AM
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Thanks for the tips, they were very helpful. A friend and I installed Power Stop 1-Click Brake kit. on my 05 Z71 4x4 last night. No ABS problems thanks to your guide.
The only suggestions I have are: Having an impact wrench handy and using a center pull when removing the hub.

Last edited by Phils05z71; 04-11-2013 at 09:23 AM.
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post #39 of 70 (permalink) Old 04-23-2013, 11:19 PM
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Hello all,

About 5 days ago I replaced the pads/rotors on a 2007 canyon sle and followed the directions found here in this thread. Unfortunately I snapped the drivers side abs wire and went to kragens (or o'reilly, whatever) and bought a new ABS speed sensor. I then used various tools and cut the old sensor off (more or less) and used a rubber mallet to get the new speed sensor in place.

The "abs fault" light is now on and won't go off and it's driving me insane. O'reilly's doesn't have a code reader for this specific vehicle and I have no clue where to begin diagnosing the problem. I also seem to have gotten a weird abs speed sensor wire in that it seems slightly thicker and almost shorter I want to say than the one on the passenger side. The blasted thing also says MADE IN MEXICO which I found slightly unnerving...I have no idea how to proceed from here, yes I have read the directions but honestly I think I have counted like 15 different reasons the computer hates my brake job and it takes so incredibly long to get the wheel off and make adjustments that I would like to have some kind of diagram telling me where to go from here if possible.

Did someone say there can be issues with the wiring harness itself? I mean I put the wire back best I could, it didn't go back precisely the way I found it. Does the wiring harness and the sensor need to go back EXACTLY how I found it for this thing to work?

Thanks in advance
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post #40 of 70 (permalink) Old 04-23-2013, 11:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UncleDave View Post
What size socket is needed for the main nut? looks like 1-3/8 or 35mm. Deep well?
I tried to tackle the brakes today, and was suprised at the (poor) engineering requiring such major disassembly to swap a rotor....
Put new pads on, hopefully that's all I needed... We'll see.

Dave
It's a 35mm axle nut, you need a specific socket to get that nut off. I rented one at kragens (oreilly?) and took it back and got a refund. Free tool rentals are awesome.
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