How To: Rotor removal, No ABS problems, No alignment needed. - Page 3 - Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon
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post #41 of 70 (permalink) Old 04-23-2013, 11:12 PM
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Guys I may be wrong here but it appears I was sold the wrong speed sensor. I had called kragenoreilleys and told them the vehicle that I had and which side I needed, I was sold this guy but a little research tells me I actually need this guy. I believe I am correct and that there are a couple speed sensors to choose from and only one is the right one. If any of you guys have had your abs light on for some time and have been unable to diagnose the issue, you might want to check the sensor you bought if you replaced it and make sure you have the right one for your vehicle. There is a sensor for rwd sport suspension, rwd standard, rwd off road and 4wd. Check this page to see what I mean.

I am pretty pissed right now, I don't think I can get a refund from kragenoreilleys even though it's pretty much their fault. They do not even stock/carry the sensor I need and can't order it, so they sold me whatever they had basically and now I'm out like $50 which is ridiculous.

Oh and you can order the correct speed sensor online here for $32
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post #42 of 70 (permalink) Old 04-24-2013, 09:53 AM
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Hello all,

About 5 days ago I replaced the pads/rotors on a 2007 canyon sle and followed the directions found here in this thread. Unfortunately I snapped the drivers side abs wire and went to kragens (or o'reilly, whatever) and bought a new ABS speed sensor. I then used various tools and cut the old sensor off (more or less) and used a rubber mallet to get the new speed sensor in place.

The "abs fault" light is now on and won't go off and it's driving me insane. O'reilly's doesn't have a code reader for this specific vehicle and I have no clue where to begin diagnosing the problem. I also seem to have gotten a weird abs speed sensor wire in that it seems slightly thicker and almost shorter I want to say than the one on the passenger side. The blasted thing also says MADE IN MEXICO which I found slightly unnerving...I have no idea how to proceed from here, yes I have read the directions but honestly I think I have counted like 15 different reasons the computer hates my brake job and it takes so incredibly long to get the wheel off and make adjustments that I would like to have some kind of diagram telling me where to go from here if possible.

Did someone say there can be issues with the wiring harness itself? I mean I put the wire back best I could, it didn't go back precisely the way I found it. Does the wiring harness and the sensor need to go back EXACTLY how I found it for this thing to work?

Thanks in advance
Hello bayswim,

I completely understand you enjoy and love to work on your vehicle yourself. With that said, if you ever feel stuck, I am here to assist you. :)

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post #43 of 70 (permalink) Old 04-24-2013, 10:48 AM
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Whenever I have to use a local parts store (O'Reillys, Advance, Pepboys,etc.) I first hit the computer and try to find the part on their respective website. Then I just go to the store and tell them the part number. If possible, I take the old part with me so that I can verify it in the store, and not have to return it if it isn't correct. Not sure why O'Reillys couldn't check the code. This vehicle is no different than other OB2 vehicles. The fact that the part was made in Mexico doesn't have much to do with it. A lot of OEM parts are produced in Mexico. The routing of the ABS Sensor is important. It has to be attached correctly to prevent interference when turning the wheels. If you can turn the steering from lock to lock without the wiring stretching or catching it should be okay. Yes, RockAuto is the "go to" parts supplier online. I think most of the DIY guys are already familiar with it. There is always a 5% off discount code floating around. Just me, but I would pass up the $32 sensor and go for the $38 ACDelco.
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post #44 of 70 (permalink) Old 04-24-2013, 12:30 PM
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Hello bayswim,

I completely understand you enjoy and love to work on your vehicle yourself. With that said, if you ever feel stuck, I am here to assist you. :)

Safe travels my friend,

Jennifer T,
GM Customer Care Service
Hi Jennifer.

My handle is not "bayswim" the letters equal Bay Straight White Male. I got the idea from someone on another forum, baygbm (if you can't figure out what that stands for let me know) and basically copied what he did.

Anyway, my name is Mike. I appreciate any help you can offer, for starters I would like to know if the speed sensor that I purchased might actually be viable or are there really 4 different versions of the darn thing? Also when I put the new speed sensor on I had no clue there ought to be a small gap between the hub and the sleeve thing ( the part that goes around the hub, had to hit it with a rubber mallet to get it on) and so of course I got that sucker about as far down as I could go without putting too much pressure on it. Did i break it or is the sensor that I bought still salvageable? My interest in the answer to that question predicated upon your confirmation the sensor I bought and installed will actually work, if it's totally the wrong sensor I will buy a new one and don't care much about keeping the old one.

Also does ANYONE have a trick to getting the speed sensor off of the hub for replacement? I had to cut the last one off piece by piece. It wasn't fun to say the least.
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post #45 of 70 (permalink) Old 04-24-2013, 12:39 PM
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Whenever I have to use a local parts store (O'Reillys, Advance, Pepboys,etc.) I first hit the computer and try to find the part on their respective website. Then I just go to the store and tell them the part number. If possible, I take the old part with me so that I can verify it in the store, and not have to return it if it isn't correct. Not sure why O'Reillys couldn't check the code. This vehicle is no different than other OB2 vehicles. The fact that the part was made in Mexico doesn't have much to do with it. A lot of OEM parts are produced in Mexico. The routing of the ABS Sensor is important. It has to be attached correctly to prevent interference when turning the wheels. If you can turn the steering from lock to lock without the wiring stretching or catching it should be okay. Yes, RockAuto is the "go to" parts supplier online. I think most of the DIY guys are already familiar with it. There is always a 5% off discount code floating around. Just me, but I would pass up the $32 sensor and go for the $38 ACDelco.
Firstly you are 100% correct about my needing to verify that I had the correct part beforehand. It's my fault, the sad part is the people at oreilley's had no idea there was a different sensor for different suspension set ups. meaning, they've probably screwed this up before. I literally had no idea, I happened to figure that fact out by chance last night. When I did the truck I had someplace to be in the morning and freaked out when the dammed wire snapped ( I had been very very careful to that point and getting the rotor to separate from the steering knuckle was tough so eventually the damned thing plopped in my lap, I fist pumped, went to do the other side and said "hold on a second, either this thing communicates via infrared or I SON OF A BKIMVGNO")

So anyway oreilley's refuses to read the trouble code (as does a number of other places that I called) because in california I suppose people were using the code readers to delete problems before smogging. dunno how that would work but apparently you have to either buy a code reader or know someone that has one. Even aamco turned me down and GMC won't touch it without getting the full diagnosis and repair deal (ugh) SO I haven't gotten the code read yet.

I didn't mean to imply a whole heck of anything about mexico, just that it was strange to see MADE IN MEXICO across the wire in large font (hardly ever see anything made in mexico) and then the stupid thing doesn't work etc. Overall this job has just been cursed from the get go, I also have a fcking brake squeal on the drivers side I can't get rid of and mysteriously a small amount of the rotor is being rubber off on the outermost part of the lip. Super pissed, I wish I hadn't done this job. My friend needed the savings, I needed the cash, found a tutorial and it turned out to be a roadmap to **** (sort of)
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post #46 of 70 (permalink) Old 04-24-2013, 12:39 PM
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post #47 of 70 (permalink) Old 04-24-2013, 08:53 PM
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used a rubber mallet to get the new speed sensor in place.
Pretty sure that's a no-no. ABS sensor can be damaged by that. You need a ABS reader like an actron cp9449 or a tech2 to read the abs code, but it's most likely a bad/faulty abs sensor.
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post #48 of 70 (permalink) Old 04-25-2013, 08:30 AM
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Hi Jennifer.

My handle is not "bayswim" the letters equal Bay Straight White Male. I got the idea from someone on another forum, baygbm (if you can't figure out what that stands for let me know) and basically copied what he did.

Anyway, my name is Mike. I appreciate any help you can offer, for starters I would like to know if the speed sensor that I purchased might actually be viable or are there really 4 different versions of the darn thing? Also when I put the new speed sensor on I had no clue there ought to be a small gap between the hub and the sleeve thing ( the part that goes around the hub, had to hit it with a rubber mallet to get it on) and so of course I got that sucker about as far down as I could go without putting too much pressure on it. Did i break it or is the sensor that I bought still salvageable? My interest in the answer to that question predicated upon your confirmation the sensor I bought and installed will actually work, if it's totally the wrong sensor I will buy a new one and don't care much about keeping the old one.

Also does ANYONE have a trick to getting the speed sensor off of the hub for replacement? I had to cut the last one off piece by piece. It wasn't fun to say the least.
Bayswm,


My apologies, I do not know where I got the “i” from.


Unfortunately, I cannot give any technical support because I am not a licensed technician. However, if you could provide me the VIN I could look up the part and I could give you the part number.


Safe Travels,


Jennifer T,
GM Customer Care Service

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For information on the GM Privacy Statement, please visit http://www.gm.com/privacy-statement.html
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post #49 of 70 (permalink) Old 04-26-2013, 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by abracadabra View Post
Pretty sure that's a no-no. ABS sensor can be damaged by that. You need a ABS reader like an actron cp9449 or a tech2 to read the abs code, but it's most likely a bad/faulty abs sensor.
na they sold me the wrong sensor. I just s/w the manager and it turns out the salesmen are not even prompted to ask which variation of the truck the customer has when asking about this (and I assume many other) parts that oreilley's doesn't carry (surprise surprise)

I see it going down like this- Oreilley's can't afford to stock everything for every vehicle so they rig the computer system such that customers get sold whatever they do actually carry that sounds right and no one is the wiser at first. By the time the customer finds out they have a bad part ooops, now whose fault is that? Certainly not the parts guy at oreilley's, he asked the questions given to him by the computer. The customer should have known better.

Kind of back handed if you ask me. I was running out of time and had to get my wheels back on the ground (I took a TAXI to oreilley's at an expense of over $25 for a 2 mile round trip mind you) and when I called I said I needed an abs speed sensor he says year/make/model I tell him he says driver or passenger side so I tell him and he says come on down, it's here waiting for you. I swear this kind of crap must happen all the time and it's a real downer because the deck is already stacked against us DIY'ers as it is, people getting sold the wrong parts and then having a hard time figuring out what went wrong is just making things worse for sure.
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post #50 of 70 (permalink) Old 04-26-2013, 10:55 PM
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Bayswm,


My apologies, I do not know where I got the “i” from.


Unfortunately, I cannot give any technical support because I am not a licensed technician. However, if you could provide me the VIN I could look up the part and I could give you the part number.


Safe Travels,


Jennifer T,
GM Customer Care Service
Thanks for the helpful advice Jennifer. Take care.
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post #51 of 70 (permalink) Old 05-09-2013, 11:48 AM
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oK so I talked to a manager at oreilley's and managed to get him to order a new speed sensor for me (the correct one this time, which was a special order) at their expense and it will be in tomorrow. Question is start to finish how do I install the speed sensor onto the hub the correct way 110%? I cannot afford to screw up this time, it has to be perfect regardless if the method is time consuming.

thanks
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post #52 of 70 (permalink) Old 09-27-2013, 09:36 PM
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This is great, luckily my truck had a cap over the axel nut so i could just break the nut while the tire was still on the ground, along with the lug nuts. But still, I had to use a puller to get the hub loose.
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post #53 of 70 (permalink) Old 10-09-2013, 06:34 AM
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Thanks, nice write-up! How easy is it to damage the sensor? I put everything back together, and I was pretty careful with it, but my sensor is still going off. I didn't clean up things as well as you had suggested. Should I take it apart and reclean your way and try it or should I buy new sensors? Thanks again
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post #54 of 70 (permalink) Old 10-11-2013, 02:28 PM
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I have a 2007 Canyon and I just wanted to post what I had to do to change my rotors a few weeks back. Some of the tips from this page were very helpful, but nothing seemed to work. Bastards were really stuck on there. It took my Dad and I a day and a half to get them off. We tried a few different tricks from some of the guys around here, but in the end we used a 2-ton hydraulic bottle jack that we braced against the inner wall of the wheel well AND a 5-lb slide hammer pulling from the front. Both sensors were fine and there was no damage to the truck at all!
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post #55 of 70 (permalink) Old 10-11-2013, 03:34 PM
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The sensors are extremely sensitive from what I understand. If they are not seated perfectly it will throw a code.

For others reading; it is generally recommended to purchase a hub with sensors already installed. When doing this there is no need to use caution for sensor removal, and it will be installed properly (hopefully) to start with.
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post #56 of 70 (permalink) Old 10-11-2013, 07:04 PM
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I had a similar truck recently (a Ram 2500) with seized hubs. I was able to use an air hammer to attempt to spin the hub in a circular motion then slide hammer it out.

However, I do not remember when I did my rotors on my Colorado if you can even access the base of the hub with the rotors on there. Just a blerb at best.
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post #57 of 70 (permalink) Old 10-20-2013, 06:30 PM
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just change my brakes and they seem to get to hot
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post #58 of 70 (permalink) Old 01-10-2015, 02:03 PM
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I have 2007 z71 2wd. I read the post where someone asked if the rotor replacement for 2WD is different but I did not see a reply to this portion of the post. So...does anyone know...is the process simpler on a 2WD? (I paid the dealer $1,000 CDN once and would like to avoid doing this again).

Thanks
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post #59 of 70 (permalink) Old 01-10-2015, 07:51 PM
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Well, I would think it would be quite a bit easier on a 2wd versus a 4wd. There aren't any axles stuck into the hubs and secured very tightly with large nuts. In your part of the world, those axles probably would be rusted in place. You will probably still run into some difficulty removing the hubs from the steering knuckle due to the aforementioned rust.
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post #60 of 70 (permalink) Old 05-22-2015, 09:27 PM
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This post is for all the 2wd guys like myself who got stuck on this project. I was lucky enough to only need my rotor turned but found shop either would not do it or would tell me their machine didn't fit colorados. I think they just knew and didn't want to get involved with it as they probably knew they where a nightmare to deal with. Anyways I think my way is better as it removes less rotor material thus extending the rotors life. So let me get to point and what to do . I knew I needed pads but my rotors had plenty of meat left. I had tried everything everyone had suggested and still I had problems. So yesterday I went to Walmart and got a variety pack of normal sandpaper along with a sanding block. Today I started with 100 grit and began sanding the rotors spinning them to do so. I did this until I was satisfied the roughest parts had been sanded and then moved down to 150 grit and repeated the process. Finally I moved down to 220 grit and repeated the process until I had an even smooth surface, Also I forgot to mention I removed the caliper and pads prior to doing all this, I also sanded the pad lightly to clear it of debris. I wish I had pictures because when I put it all back together to my surprise, SILENCE. What I thought was going to either take me a day or 2 to do or $1000 at the dealership cost about 7 dollars.Also I simply used glass wiped to clean the dust generated by the sanding. Its a 2hour fix and first ive heard of this being done on our trucks.
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