How To: Rotor removal, No ABS problems, No alignment needed. - Page 4 - Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon
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post #61 of 70 (permalink) Old 05-22-2015, 10:33 PM
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This post is for all the 2wd guys like myself who got stuck on this project. I was lucky enough to only need my rotor turned but found shop either would not do it or would tell me their machine didn't fit colorados. I think they just knew and didn't want to get involved with it as they probably knew they where a nightmare to deal with. Anyways I think my way is better as it removes less rotor material thus extending the rotors life. So let me get to point and what to do . I knew I needed pads but my rotors had plenty of meat left. I had tried everything everyone had suggested and still I had problems. So yesterday I went to Walmart and got a variety pack of normal sandpaper along with a sanding block. Today I started with 100 grit and began sanding the rotors spinning them to do so. I did this until I was satisfied the roughest parts had been sanded and then moved down to 150 grit and repeated the process. Finally I moved down to 220 grit and repeated the process until I had an even smooth surface, Also I forgot to mention I removed the caliper and pads prior to doing all this, I also sanded the pad lightly to clear it of debris. I wish I had pictures because when I put it all back together to my surprise, SILENCE. What I thought was going to either take me a day or 2 to do or $1000 at the dealership cost about 7 dollars.Also I simply used glass wiped to clean the dust generated by the sanding. Its a 2hour fix and first ive heard of this being done on our trucks.
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post #62 of 70 (permalink) Old 06-13-2015, 09:19 PM
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Repair Shop Estimate.

Got a estimate today for front and rear brakes on my 2007 4x4 Canyon crew cab at a local brake shop.
New rotors and pads installed on the front= $463.00 for both sides.
New Bendix drums and shoes on rear installed= $343.00 for both sides.


My 07 GMC Canyon has 92k miles. They said the brakes are 90% gone which I believe.
Fair price? Might just have the fronts done for now.

Stano

Last edited by Stano; 06-13-2015 at 10:50 PM.
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post #63 of 70 (permalink) Old 10-15-2015, 11:54 PM
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So I followed the step by step guide which i found very helpful.

However i messed up my ABS sensor. (start laughing now).

my truck is a 2007, original pads and rotors. 167,000 km the pads were worn right down to metal. so i figured it was time to replace both.

When i used the piece of wood to "pop" the hubs off the axel it separated the abs sensor. when i pulled off the hub the sensor and ring stayed put.

So, either way i cleaned both sides up with WD-40 and reinserted it. It is slightly sticking out past the original position, but the ABS fault is flashing.

Does it just need to be properly seated or is it FUBAR? I only did one side so far, so i would like to avoid the same mistake/situation on the other side. then of course go back and redo the drivers side.

any advice would be helpful.

Last edited by e30 hobby car; 10-15-2015 at 11:57 PM. Reason: typo
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post #64 of 70 (permalink) Old 10-16-2015, 12:04 AM
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I am pretty sure it just needs to be seated properly. They are a bear from what I have read over the years. The sensitivity of how deep it needs to set seems riduculous (based on my reading). If it visually appears to be inserted incorrectly then it probably is.

I can't offer any advice whether or not you should replace the ring or not (that is above my knowledge to give you the advice).

Hopefully side #2 goes smoother.
FYI: because they are difficult, those who replace hub/rotor (I know that doesn't apply to what you were doing) find it best to purchase the assembly that includes the ABS ring pre-installed so they do not have to do it themselves - if that tells you anything.
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post #65 of 70 (permalink) Old 10-09-2016, 02:18 PM
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Hi all, I have a 2006 Colorado 4DR SB, short of all the other little quirks something new has come up. Brake rotor replacement.

I have a question and concern on this very subject. I needed to do a brake job. Got all the parts, tools, jack and jack stands, together, and prepared for the job. The above instructions were perfect, Thank You for the help. It went like clockwork UNTIL.... I went to put the caliper back on. It didn't fit. I don't know what I could have done wrong. I'm thinking that the the rotors aren't the correct size. I can't figure out what part of them isn't the proper dimension.

The threaded mounting holes/tabs that fit between the rotor, and the steering knuckle don't fit. I can jam it in but thins't going to work, It's almost like the rotors are either offset toward the inside a little too much, or the rotor is too thick.

There is something obvious but it escapes me. I can't figure it out to save my soul. I will call the Chevrolet dealer and ask them if there is a specific part number for that single year Colorado.

I went back to AdvanceAuto, and they showed me all the associated parts, everything was perfect, the only part number for the front rotor, for all varieties of Colorado's.

If anybody can give me a little assistance, like tell me I'm doing something obviously wrong I welcome any help, I need to get this done as soon as possible
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post #66 of 70 (permalink) Old 10-09-2016, 03:41 PM
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Brake rotors for the 2004 thru 2008 Colorados were the same. Rotors for the 2009 thru 2012 were a bit larger. Are the dimensions of the new rotors different than the ones you removed? Can you post a picture of the part that you are having the problem with?
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post #67 of 70 (permalink) Old 10-10-2016, 01:27 PM
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Thanks cart7881 I know the 04-08 are the same rotor, and I'm not sure what wasn't right. I'm just guessing here but the rotors they sold me the first time were probably in fact made for a later year, like an 09 and their database of part numbers is wrong. I'm leaving shortly to the Chevy Dealer, and will post what the results are. I wish I could have taken a photo and I'm hoping that this doesn't continue, and it gets solved today.

I ended up putting the original worn out rotors back on so I could drive it. The rotors that I needed to return are already returned. I no longer have them. They looked identical but I did not look at the ID dimension of the Inner side of the Rotor. Again these came from AdvanceAuto, and they happily took them back, prior to that I tried some from eBay. Those didn't fit either, they were the same as what I got from AdvanceAuto and it cost me shipping charges, to find out they don't fit.

When I called the dealer today, the first words were what are the last 8 numbers of the VIN. After giving it to him he said he'll have them around 1 pm today, so I'm off today, and going to go pick them up, I'll let you know how it goes, and I'll post a photo of the shiny new rotor installed, wish me luck!
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post #68 of 70 (permalink) Old 10-10-2016, 02:15 PM
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This is going to sound kind of stupid, but you did retract the pistons in the calipers, correct?
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post #69 of 70 (permalink) Old 10-10-2016, 06:45 PM
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Front Brake Rotor 2006 4X4

Well, The saga of the front brake job continues, this some good reading here....... So this is where I am, another day working on a Chevrolet Colorado front brake system, this makes day 3, I can't think of a better way to spend a 3 day weekend then taking a routine 2 hour job and stretching it into over 30 hours. The dealer would be lost at this point. They couldn't understand or try to figure out what was wrong. So I did some figuring with my pal Mike, short for Micrometer.

This is a 2006 4 X 4 LS, 4 door. This attempt to replace worn front rotors using genuine AC Delco Chevrolet parts. Just thinking I went to the dealer to pay top dollar and get the opportunity to use such a wonderful facility. I feel fortunate that I can use them, they made sure that I felt lucky they were there to help me. Yes, I'm the lucky customer. I'll always feel like i should kiss the feet of all that work for Chevrolet. They are the best of the best.

I started with wire brushing and cleaning all surfaces, then I installed the new from the Chevrolet Dealer rotor on the hub, then the hub on the front drivers side spindle. I torqued down all the bolts to where they are supposed to be. Before I installed the caliper I took a simple instrument and measured the space that the caliper was to fit into (space between the rotor and the surface of the caliper mounting face on the spindle), 0.210" showing on the mike. Now I measure the thickness of the caliper mounting bracket, same number 0.210" thick. OK this is what the problem is, fitting something into something that is the same size, it won't go! You need some clearance.

I'm at my wits end, so I called a very good/old friend of mine that owns a machine shop. I asked him if he could help me with this situation, "can you take off .0.050" from the inside surface of the rotor? "No problem", he said "bring um in tomorrow". Well I have known Eric for 22 years now, and I know him as one of the nicest people I have ever met. BTW he is a Tool and Die maker by trade, not a machinist. I'm very fortunate that I have somebody that will do this. I'm pretty sure this is the end of my post on this.

I have photos, but they don't reveal anything that isn't said here.
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post #70 of 70 (permalink) Old 10-10-2016, 06:48 PM
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Yes no question is stupid. See the latest post I just made. FYI I was trying to put the calipers on without pads installed, just the caliper.....and fully retracted, you install the pads after the caliper is on.

Last edited by hneeser; 10-10-2016 at 06:50 PM. Reason: left out the pads
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