How To: Rotor removal, No ABS problems, No alignment needed. - Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon
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post #1 of 70 (permalink) Old 03-15-2010, 12:46 PM Thread Starter
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How To: Rotor removal, No ABS problems, No alignment needed.

Ok guys. This job isn’t as hard as people make it out to be if you know what you’re doing.. I didn’t, and the first one took me about 6 hours but the second one only 3. I followed some instructions on here but found they could have been better…. The biggest thing is you don’t have to pull the steering knuckle or separate anything on the bench.. Nor did I screw up the ABS sensor but I think I might know why some do….

1. Jack up the truck and place the front on jack stands. You will be turning the wheel back and forth and if one wheel is touching the ground it will walk right off a jack. Place the stands on the frame so the suspension is fully extended.. This will give you more room to work and also extend the 4x4 axle if equipped making your job much easier.

2. Take off wheels by removing the lug nuts

3. Place a pry bar in the lug bolts (as a brace) and loosen the 6 bolts in the face of the spindle that hold the rotor to the spindle. (see pic below)

4. Leave the bar in place and remove the Axle nut and Washer.

5. Remove the pry bar.

6. Crank the truck and turn the front of the rotor outward (Steering wheel left if working on the driver’s side, right if working on the Passenger side.)

7. Reach behind the steering knuckle and remove 2 bolts holding the hub to the knuckle. (4 bolts hold the hub to the knuckle. In this step you remove 2 on this side, later in step 11 you remove the other 2)

8. Crank the truck and turn the front of the rotor inward. (Steering wheel right if working on the drivers side, Left if working on the Passenger side.)

9. Unbolt the caliper and hang up out of the way.

10. Remove the bake mounting bracket by the 2 bolts behind the steering knuckle.

11. Remove the remaining 2 bolts from behind the knuckle that bolts into the Hub.

12. Find the wire for the ABS sensor and trace it. The first clip will be a metal bracket on the frame, using a screwdriver open the two metal clips leaving the bracket on the truck. Keep following the wire and removing the plastic clips. (I simply pried them from the frame being careful not to break them leaving them on the wire)

13. Mounted behind the fender is the disconnect clip for the ABS wire. The clip is mounted to the metal via 2 clips right behind the fender well. Disconnect it. (I removed the top piece of the plastic dirt shield for easier access.)

14. Take a 18 inch piece of 2x4 and place it behind the rear edge of the rotor with the wheel inward. And the other end against the dimple hole in the square frame (See Pic 1 below The Red line is 2x4. Obviously the caliper and bracket in the pic would be removed by this point)

15. With the 2x4 in place have someone turn the wheel until it tightens up against the 2x4. Turn a little harder. The hub will pop loose of the steering knuckle. It will sound like you broke something when it pops loose.

16. Take the same block of wood and place the end against the very end of the 4x4 axle. Tap it a few times with a medium hammer until you can see the axle is movable inward. (It will spring back out you were just making sure it’s movable and isn’t stuck in the hub.)

17. Once the next step is complete and the hub free you will need to hold onto the hub and feed the ABS wire through the steering knuckle. If you go to set that hub down you will break that wire. (See pic 2 below.)

18. Place a small block of wood against the end of the 4x4 axle and put your knee on it. Place both hands on the rotor… PUSH HARD with your knee and you should see the 4x4 shaft move inward…. Pull on the rotor in an outward and Upward motion. Wiggle.. Wiggle.. Pull.. Pull.. Cuss…

19. Work on getting the ABS wire and clips through the Steering knuckle.

20. Once the entire infernal contraption is in your lap unbolt the 6 bolts through the spindle holding on the rotor. Remove said rotor, spit on it and throw it across the shop.

21. IMPORTANT…. This is where I’m pretty sure people are reporting bad sensors, they fail to do this step. On the back of the hub is a metal ring with a wire attached to it. This is the ABS Sensor. You will notice you probably pulled it away some while removing the hub. The gap between the sensor and the magneto should be less than the thickness of a credit card. No problem. Place a flat piece of wood across it (not the wire though) and lightly tap it back into place. Take a q-tip or 10 and clean all around inside this ring.

22. Take a wire brush and clean the ring on the hub and inside the steering knuckle it will make installation much easier. (See pic 3 Red marks.)

23. Install new rotor.. CORRECTLY.. It will go on backwards and unless you want to reinstall everything all the way to the caliper before you realize you screwed up. Check it now..

24. Spray some good old WD-40 on the hole in the steering knuckle and the end of the 4x4 drive shaft.

25. Reinstall the hub. Being careful to fish the ABS wire back through the hole. NOTE the dirt shield goes towards the front of the vehicle. Not the rear. That caliper goes there silly…. LOL..

26. Installation is reverse of removal. For the rest of the parts.



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post #2 of 70 (permalink) Old 03-15-2010, 03:47 PM
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Re: How To: Rotor removal, No ABS problems, No alignment needed.

Very nice write up!
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post #3 of 70 (permalink) Old 03-20-2010, 01:31 AM
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Re: How To: Rotor removal, No ABS problems, No alignment needed.

Hello,

Step #3 is absolutely vital to saving TONS of time. Trying to awkward hold a rotating device while trying to break the torque is nearly impossible. So Bravo for placing this so early in the process.

Step #15 would make me a tab bit nervous and could alternately be done with wd-40 between the hub, brake shield and steering knuckle then gently using an older dull wood chisel to break the rust seal a bit at a time. When I hear "popping" sounds - it makes me uncomfortable. I certainly do recognize it though as a good way to do it if you can stomach the sound!

Thanks for taking the time to write it up.

I am doing the 2nd side this weekend and I really want to do a about tip videos for others. It's ridiculous that shops want to charge $400 bucks to change rotors. Btw, original hub lasted 405,000 miles and other lasted 275,000 before replaced!

Kindest regards,
diatribe
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post #4 of 70 (permalink) Old 04-03-2010, 03:43 PM
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Re: How To: Rotor removal, No ABS problems, No alignment needed.

Hey I don't have a 4 x 4 Colorado, just 2WD. How do I go about getting the rotors off?

Also what rotors and break would be the best to use?

I also need to work on the rear end and bring everything up to grade.

Unfortunately I've never done any break work on the truck, so replacing almost everything is my only option.

Could/can I install rotors in the rear?

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post #5 of 70 (permalink) Old 04-10-2010, 05:46 PM
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Re: How To: Rotor removal, No ABS problems, No alignment needed.

a very helpful post. i just did my rotors have 258000 km on old ones. follow instructions and your good to go.
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post #6 of 70 (permalink) Old 05-01-2010, 08:03 PM
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Re: How To: Rotor removal, No ABS problems, No alignment needed.

What's the torque specs for the hub bolts, rotor bolts , caliper bracket bolts, and caliper bolts?

Joel

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post #7 of 70 (permalink) Old 05-05-2010, 08:36 AM
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Re: How To: Rotor removal, No ABS problems, No alignment needed.

Nice write up, I may try this next time. Only one comment, don't you need to remove the ABS cable bracket on the steering knuckle?
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post #8 of 70 (permalink) Old 05-16-2010, 10:57 AM
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Re: How To: Rotor removal, No ABS problems, No alignment needed.

Just wanted to say thanks for the write up, managed to get this done last night.

Harsh language and an impact wrench work wonders.

2004 Colorado ZQ8 Ext. Cab I5 5spd
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post #9 of 70 (permalink) Old 05-16-2010, 10:42 PM
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Re: How To: Rotor removal, No ABS problems, No alignment needed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fasterthanyours
Hey I don't have a 4 x 4 Colorado, just 2WD. How do I go about getting the rotors off?

Also what rotors and break would be the best to use?

I also need to work on the rear end and bring everything up to grade.

Unfortunately I've never done any break work on the truck, so replacing almost everything is my only option.

Could/can I install rotors in the rear?
Jegs.com has a few kits. They cost about 1100-1400. I was wanting to do a swap as well. Looks like I'll be waiting a little longer.

'05 I4 z85 'rado 5speed
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Flowmaster exiting infront of axel
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post #10 of 70 (permalink) Old 05-17-2010, 08:49 PM
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Re: How To: Rotor removal, No ABS problems, No alignment needed.

very good write up. the both times i had to replace my hub/bearing i had to take the knuckle off. but this will help cut alot of time


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post #11 of 70 (permalink) Old 05-17-2010, 11:11 PM
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Re: How To: Rotor removal, No ABS problems, No alignment needed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jackalope
Ok guys. This job isn’t as hard as people make it out to be if you know what you’re doing.. I didn’t, and the first one took me about 6 hours but the second one only 3. I followed some instructions on here but found they could have been better…. The biggest thing is you don’t have to pull the steering knuckle or separate anything on the bench.. Nor did I screw up the ABS sensor but I think I might know why some do….

1. Jack up the truck and place the front on jack stands. You will be turning the wheel back and forth and if one wheel is touching the ground it will walk right off a jack. Place the stands on the frame so the suspension is fully extended.. This will give you more room to work and also extend the 4x4 axle if equipped making your job much easier.

2. Take off wheels by removing the lug nuts

3. Place a pry bar in the lug bolts (as a brace) and loosen the 6 bolts in the face of the spindle that hold the rotor to the spindle. (see pic below)

4. Leave the bar in place and remove the Axle nut and Washer.

5. Remove the pry bar.

6. Crank the truck and turn the front of the rotor outward (Steering wheel left if working on the driver’s side, right if working on the Passenger side.)

7. Reach behind the steering knuckle and remove 2 bolts holding the hub to the knuckle. (4 bolts hold the hub to the knuckle. In this step you remove 2 on this side, later in step 11 you remove the other 2)

8. Crank the truck and turn the front of the rotor inward. (Steering wheel right if working on the drivers side, Left if working on the Passenger side.)

9. Unbolt the caliper and hang up out of the way.

10. Remove the bake mounting bracket by the 2 bolts behind the steering knuckle.

11. Remove the remaining 2 bolts from behind the knuckle that bolts into the Hub.

12. Find the wire for the ABS sensor and trace it. The first clip will be a metal bracket on the frame, using a screwdriver open the two metal clips leaving the bracket on the truck. Keep following the wire and removing the plastic clips. (I simply pried them from the frame being careful not to break them leaving them on the wire)

13. Mounted behind the fender is the disconnect clip for the ABS wire. The clip is mounted to the metal via 2 clips right behind the fender well. Disconnect it. (I removed the top piece of the plastic dirt shield for easier access.)

14. Take a 18 inch piece of 2x4 and place it behind the rear edge of the rotor with the wheel inward. And the other end against the dimple hole in the square frame (See Pic 1 below The Red line is 2x4. Obviously the caliper and bracket in the pic would be removed by this point)

15. With the 2x4 in place have someone turn the wheel until it tightens up against the 2x4. Turn a little harder. The hub will pop loose of the steering knuckle. It will sound like you broke something when it pops loose.

16. Take the same block of wood and place the end against the very end of the 4x4 axle. Tap it a few times with a medium hammer until you can see the axle is movable inward. (It will spring back out you were just making sure it’s movable and isn’t stuck in the hub.)

17. Once the next step is complete and the hub free you will need to hold onto the hub and feed the ABS wire through the steering knuckle. If you go to set that hub down you will break that wire. (See pic 2 below.)

18. Place a small block of wood against the end of the 4x4 axle and put your knee on it. Place both hands on the rotor… PUSH HARD with your knee and you should see the 4x4 shaft move inward…. Pull on the rotor in an outward and Upward motion. Wiggle.. Wiggle.. Pull.. Pull.. Cuss…

19. Work on getting the ABS wire and clips through the Steering knuckle.

20. Once the entire infernal contraption is in your lap unbolt the 6 bolts through the spindle holding on the rotor. Remove said rotor, spit on it and throw it across the shop.

21. IMPORTANT…. This is where I’m pretty sure people are reporting bad sensors, they fail to do this step. On the back of the hub is a metal ring with a wire attached to it. This is the ABS Sensor. You will notice you probably pulled it away some while removing the hub. The gap between the sensor and the magneto should be less than the thickness of a credit card. No problem. Place a flat piece of wood across it (not the wire though) and lightly tap it back into place. Take a q-tip or 10 and clean all around inside this ring.

22. Take a wire brush and clean the ring on the hub and inside the steering knuckle it will make installation much easier. (See pic 3 Red marks.)

23. Install new rotor.. CORRECTLY.. It will go on backwards and unless you want to reinstall everything all the way to the caliper before you realize you screwed up. Check it now..

24. Spray some good old WD-40 on the hole in the steering knuckle and the end of the 4x4 drive shaft.

25. Reinstall the hub. Being careful to fish the ABS wire back through the hole. NOTE the dirt shield goes towards the front of the vehicle. Not the rear. That caliper goes there silly…. LOL..

26. Installation is reverse of removal. For the rest of the parts.




great info.take cd and make a tape of how its done step by step.you would sell a lot of cd on this.
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post #12 of 70 (permalink) Old 07-16-2010, 11:28 PM
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Re: How To: Rotor removal, No ABS problems, No alignment needed.

Great writeup. It saved me $90 for an ABS scan and at least $60 for one of the sensors. I too had the ABS fault warning come on after the brake job. I just tapped both sensors with the bottom of the wood handle of my hammer. The warning turn off after driving about 30 feet. The rings looked pretty beat up before I tapped them (over 90k on the truck). I tapped all the way around, avoiding tapping the sensor itself to hard. Also, I just jacked my truck up a little and tapped them without removing the hubs (thank God).

I did a full front brake job. Replaced both the rotors and pads. It was pretty easy except the step to get the hub off. I ignored some of the warnings on this website about using a slide hammer. I rented one from Advance Auto Parts (for free, what a sweet deal) and attached it with the standard flange adapter. I don't understand why people think this will hurt the bearings. It's the standard protocol for pulling hubs. A slide hammer only puts an axial force on the hub. Any other method where you pry against one side (with a port-a-power or the 2x4 method) can put a moment into the bearing (not what they are designed for). Since all you are trying to do here is break the seal of rust, I'm not surprised that 2x4 method doesn't do any damage, but I certainly don't think its safer. After you break that rust seal, it slides right off. Also it's easy to pivot the hub as you pull it out, which allows you to get the ABS sensor through the knuckle. I had to remove one hub after I put it back together to rotate the dust shield, and it was super easy the second time.

One other thing, I borrowed a friend's impact wrench to unbolt the rotor from the hub. It worked perfectly with the hub just sitting on the ground. I didn't try the crow bar method, but it looks like it would work.
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post #13 of 70 (permalink) Old 07-16-2010, 11:39 PM
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Re: How To: Rotor removal, No ABS problems, No alignment needed.

it was mentioned to make CD.we do this for all our members on the HONDASHADOW forum .cost is 10 dollars.

I THINK THAT IS GREAT IDEA.member would make a few dollars at it too and be a big help.i just got CD for 9 dollars on repair manual for chevy colorado but it does not go into depth you need for this rotor job.
hope someone will do this, i will order one for sure..........
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post #14 of 70 (permalink) Old 07-17-2010, 12:04 PM
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Re: How To: Rotor removal, No ABS problems, No alignment needed.

:D great info it saved me alot of time and money thanks the pictures were great too thank you
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post #15 of 70 (permalink) Old 07-18-2010, 11:57 AM
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Re: How To: Rotor removal, No ABS problems, No alignment needed.

Just did this today took me 4 horus to do full brake job on bolth sides in my 2WD Colorado.
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post #16 of 70 (permalink) Old 11-22-2010, 06:24 PM
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Re: How To: Rotor removal, No ABS problems, No alignment needed.

The 2X4 thing may work fro some, but I followed proceedure to the tee and ended up bending my tie-rod and stabilizer dogbone, rsulting in $230 being added to the cost of this project, I am going to try a gear puller to get the hub off the axle, everything that is put on by the factory is a bitch to get off and this is no acception, befor using the 2x4 method, I would consider using a gear puller, the design is very heavy duty but a real mother to replace the rotors, and BTW mine is a 4X4.
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post #17 of 70 (permalink) Old 12-01-2010, 06:41 PM
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Re: How To: Rotor removal, No ABS problems, No alignment needed.

This may interest some of you:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VeBUx4RhQgc

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bBep_NGgDW8&NR=1
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post #18 of 70 (permalink) Old 12-30-2010, 02:26 PM
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Re: How To: Rotor removal, No ABS problems, No alignment needed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RunDev
The 2X4 thing may work fro some, but I followed proceedure to the tee and ended up bending my tie-rod and stabilizer dogbone, rsulting in $230 being added to the cost of this project, I am going to try a gear puller to get the hub off the axle, everything that is put on by the factory is a bitch to get off and this is no acception, befor using the 2x4 method, I would consider using a gear puller, the design is very heavy duty but a real mother to replace the rotors, and BTW mine is a 4X4.
Did the piece of wood slip out of place? I used a 4x4 piece of wood and the rotor / wood squared right up with the frame....popped off no problem. Yes popped off, certainly not like the X2 vid up there ^^. No way in hell mine hub assy would have just wiggled out.

05 Z71 I4 Rado /w 4:10 gearing
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post #19 of 70 (permalink) Old 01-10-2011, 10:20 PM
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Re: How To: Rotor removal, No ABS problems, No alignment needed.

I tried to get the rotors off my 2005 2WD Z71 last weeend, before I read this informaiton. I gave up after about 10 minutes pounding the drivers side hub it with a 5 lb slide hammer. There was no way that hub was coming off. So I put it all back together to try another time. Now I'll try again with this new information. One other question I have is; does the average shop have the brake lathe set up for these rotors? Since there is no centerl round hole in them I expect a special fixture would be needed to hold the rotor in the brake lathe.
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post #20 of 70 (permalink) Old 03-18-2011, 09:34 AM
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Re: How To: Rotor removal, No ABS problems, No alignment needed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by socalrado85
Quote:
Originally Posted by fasterthanyours
Hey I don't have a 4 x 4 Colorado, just 2WD. How do I go about getting the rotors off?

Also what rotors and break would be the best to use?

I also need to work on the rear end and bring everything up to grade.

Unfortunately I've never done any break work on the truck, so replacing almost everything is my only option.

Could/can I install rotors in the rear?
Jegs.com has a few kits. They cost about 1100-1400. I was wanting to do a swap as well. Looks like I'll be waiting a little longer.
What lits are these?

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