Pass Lock How To: Ignition - Page 2 - Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon
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post #21 of 43 (permalink) Old 08-17-2011, 12:36 PM
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So that big part in the picture will fix a passlock problem? That's just bigger than I imagined it would be.

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post #22 of 43 (permalink) Old 08-17-2011, 05:33 PM Thread Starter
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Meandad: go to the first page where the how to is and look at the last picture that button you push lets you take out the part where the key goes in so if thats what your saying then yeah.


Hodgey4489: yep, my truck would get stranded probly once every day havent had a problem since i replaced it

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post #23 of 43 (permalink) Old 08-19-2011, 11:35 AM
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yep, i just want to try replacing the cylinder first. I was making sure that the cylinder (ignition switch) is a different component than the pass lock. i'll swap the cylinder at my house, and if i have to get it towed to the dealer, that's what i'll do.
actually, maybe i'll expose everything, then drive to the dealer and swap it out right in front of the service bay...
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post #24 of 43 (permalink) Old 08-20-2011, 05:14 AM Thread Starter
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i would do the last one hahah and if it doesnt fix the problem take it back.

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post #25 of 43 (permalink) Old 09-04-2011, 06:48 PM
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Good times. I pulled the neg cable, and started removing the steering column shroud. Got the 3 screws out, and I couldn't get the 2 halves apart. I started getting frustrated, cause I didn't want to break the little tabs they use. It was getting late, and my girl was on her way over, so I locked the truck and got ready. She came and picked me up, and we went to her house.
Came back home today and hit the button to unlock the doors. D'oh, forgot I unhooked the battery. No problem, I'll use the key...wtf?!? Fuckin key won't work!
Apparently it has been worn down to the point that it won't work in the door lock.
It will turn the ignition, but not the door. Awesome.
Called Geico, and asked them to come unlock my car for me (part of the service they offer). They tell me that since my keys aren't in the car, they're gonna charge me if they come out.
This displeases me, and I may have told them this. With volume and curse words.
I think I'll be changing insurance carriers. That pissed me off.
Great. Crawl under the front of the truck, shove my fat arm in a skinny hole, pull the hood release cable, and pop the hood. Hook the battery up, pop the door lock, we're back in business.
Now it's daylight. I'm taking my time, and the shroud leaps apart, as if to tell me things are going great. Remove the shroud, exposing the ignition. I'm able to push the release button, and after a few tries, coax the cylinder out. I use a screwdriver to turn the switch, and the truck won't start. OK, not the cylinder.
Then I unscrew the passlock module from the opposite end of the keyed cylinder/ignition thingie, and it doesn't come all the way off, but it will wiggle around a bit. I put the screwdriver back in, and turn it, while holding the passlock module in different angles and positions, and it starts!
I threw the cylinder back in, and same deal. It doesn't start every time like magic, but I can kinda manipulate it to get it to start without too many tries.
So.
It looks like I'll be replacing the ignition/passlock unit after all, and I need to get an original key made (from the dealer?) from my VIN, so I can open my freakin doors. And since my old key is so worn down, and I need a new one for the doors, I'll need to wait until I have the new key made before I can have the new ignition cylinder keyed.
Or remove the door panel, remove the door lock cylinder, and have that keyed to the new ignition key.

I just want to drive my truck!!!!
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post #26 of 43 (permalink) Old 09-04-2011, 10:53 PM Thread Starter
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hahah damnit man sucks messing with the doorlocks is a bitch for sure its crazy i have locked my keys in my truck alot and use a coat hanger and i have broke the metal rods that are used for the door lock mechanism and i had to take the door panel off and re-attach everything. if we lived closer together i would come do it for you since i know how to do it (not saying im a pro but you know) i have taken the steering colum apart twice once for replacing the passlock and once for this how-to haha

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post #27 of 43 (permalink) Old 11-28-2011, 02:28 PM
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Hey Fellas,

I just had the dealership replace my ignition and do a relearn becasue of numerous issues I was having with the passlock system. Truck starts up great now!

My question is; does this relearn wipe out some of the information the shop that tuned my truck changed? My rev and speed limiters are still removed, however the truck seems to be a bit less responsive and does not like to "kick-down" as it usually did (it's an automatic). Am I just going crazy?

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Last edited by BlackPearl; 11-28-2011 at 02:30 PM.
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post #28 of 43 (permalink) Old 11-28-2011, 03:32 PM
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Could these passlock issues be attributed to dirty contacts / metal shavings from the key inside the lock cylinder?

before I tear into my truck to try to fix this would it be worth buying some electronics contact cleaner and spraying the holy **** out of the inside of the lock cylinder to try to fix this?

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post #29 of 43 (permalink) Old 11-29-2011, 02:28 PM
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core replacement

I am not having trouble with my passlock (whatever that is), but need to replace my ignition core, I have to leave a key in the core, slightly turned or I won't be able to start my truck. I couldn't figure out whether I can just replace the core and not have to get the dealor to do some reprogramming or not. If I have to have the truck towed, I may just have them do it.
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post #30 of 43 (permalink) Old 11-29-2011, 03:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jluke View Post
I am not having trouble with my passlock (whatever that is), but need to replace my ignition core, I have to leave a key in the core, slightly turned or I won't be able to start my truck. I couldn't figure out whether I can just replace the core and not have to get the dealor to do some reprogramming or not. If I have to have the truck towed, I may just have them do it.

You can just replace the key cylinder without having to take off the steering wheel. You just need like a angled pick to be able to push in on the release button circled in the picture.

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post #31 of 43 (permalink) Old 11-30-2011, 04:28 PM
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Thanks for the info, just replaced the lock core, works well. $40 for the core, $17 for a locksmith to key it, about 45 minutes to do the job. Just had to take off the top and bottom covers, pushed in the button (key set to Acc) using a bent piece of brazing rod. My core did not come with the tumblers, the locksmith supplied them.
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post #32 of 43 (permalink) Old 12-01-2011, 08:33 AM
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Cool. Glad it worked out for you. Interesting that a new lock core doesn't come with tumblers.


I have a question for the OP. Do you really need to buy that strip head screw? Does it perform any type of mechanical function unique to the interlock besides just a theft deterrent? Or can it be replaced with any screw?

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post #33 of 43 (permalink) Old 12-14-2011, 09:38 PM Thread Starter
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sorry bout that i have actually gotten away from coloradofans.com im on 355nation all the time same screen name. and no you dont NEED it im sure its just a theft protection like you said

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post #34 of 43 (permalink) Old 03-19-2015, 07:17 PM
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Fantastic post! I too had the no start condition. No crank, but the DIC illuminated and I could hear the fuel pump. No issues with the battery, starter, or charging as if I rotated the key anywhere from 5-50 times it would eventually crank. I got tired of doing this.

I replaced the ignition switch today, and did the passlock relearn that you can find all over the web. No need for a shop, just about 45 minutes after the maintenance is done. Mine actually took 4 cycles of 10 minutes with the passlock light flashing, and rather than turning the key to off after the 4th attempt I turned it to On, and it fired right up.

Oddly enough, the check engine light also turned itself off after about a half hour to an hour of driving. Super easy, and again, more than likely you will not need a mechanic to reset the codes.

Not mentioned - there is a little black wire on the back of the switch when you remove it. Be careful removing it. The cheap clip snapped off on me, now I have superglue and duct tape holding it in my new switch, but it works fine.
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post #35 of 43 (permalink) Old 04-23-2015, 12:07 PM
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New keys made!

I went to a local locksmith and had 2 new keys made for my 2007 Canyon at $3.00 each. No computer chips in the keys. The only key I had was worn bad on the end!
That was 2 weeks ago. So far so good no passlock problems!


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post #36 of 43 (permalink) Old 04-29-2015, 11:48 PM
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there is a YouTube video on how to program the passlock, it will take about 45 min but is easy just takes some time. it works for any chevy/gmc with the passlock.
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post #37 of 43 (permalink) Old 08-22-2015, 12:50 PM
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This definitely worked for me. No problems except for getting the strip head screw out. I just used a pair of crescet vise grip pliers around the head turning a little but at a time.

As for reprogramming the ignition I did a relearn process myself using only my key and a watch (stopwatch app on my phone) for my original key to be accepted.

I have attached a pic for the relearn process or if you can't see it here is the link:

http://www.355nation.net/forum/how-m...s/26122?page=2
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post #38 of 43 (permalink) Old 10-24-2015, 03:11 PM
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Thanks for the pictures and the process info. Used them to guide me through the replacement of the ign. switch on my 2007 Colorado Crew Cab LT, 3.5L Auto trans. Got the AC Delco ignition switch from Amazon for $49. Used the recode process you posted on 355. The biggest pain was getting the air bag off (took me about 30 min).

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post #39 of 43 (permalink) Old 10-24-2015, 04:09 PM
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to C'Fans.

You could have just changed the switch instead of the entire housing.
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post #40 of 43 (permalink) Old 01-10-2016, 09:40 AM
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Well, in my case I had to change the entire housing. Usually retirees who buy smaller vehicles, i.e. the Colorado , tow them behind their RV. They had the locking bolt in mine removed completely. The ignition switch actuates that locking bolt essentially making the vehicle unable to drive away, steal. Its a good fix for that or the truck would be turned on the entire time wasting its battery because as soon as you turn it off that locking bolt shoots up into the groove thus locking the steering.

So next time you go to buy a used car ask about what the previous owner used it for.
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