Question about Blower Motor??

[PBGUNZ35]

When I go to start my 2004 Chevy Colorado Truck up in the morning sometimes the heater will work and sometimes it will not & then I will get maybe 5 miles down the road and it will kick on it works in 1,2,3 and 4. Do you think it could be the resistor? I was planing on hooking a amp meter up to it on saturday to see if the motor has power when the truck is running. But I need to get it fixed this weekend as it is getting chillyy!! Please help me... If you have any questions as you didnt understand my topic please write on here. Thanks alot for you're help guys.. Brian S

[naskie18]

Leave it on setting 4 and see whether it works all the time or sometimes. If the problem is the resistor, it shouldn't have any affect on setting 4. If it still only works sometimes, then the problem is likely the motor itself.

[PBGUNZ35]

Alright Ill check it out this morning Most of the time it wont work on any setting at all but Ill check this morning when I head to work which I know most likely it wont work..

[n9cv]

Note: I'm not finished with this posting. I'll update it with part numbers and pictures when I get time. If you have any additional info that you feel should be added please PM me with it.

The pictures referenced below are not mine. I "borrowed" them from other Colorado owners postings.

There are three main failures that happen in the blower motor circuit.
1. The contact(s) on the resistor pack burn open or become intermittent.
2. The Splice Pack mounting tab located on the passenger side inner fender gets corroded or rusted.
3. The contact inside the Splice Pack (the black box mounted on the passenger side inner fender) burns open or becomes intermittent.

Other less common problems include:
4. The blower motor fuse 41 (30 amp)
5. The blower motor relay 59 (#8864 or Part number 15328864)
6. The blower motor itself

I have listed the above six items in order of probability. The easiest ones to check immediately are items 4 and 5. Simply open the fuse box under the hood and swap those two items with another of the same size or part number.

Back to item 1, 2, and 3

If the blower motor fails to operate on position 1, 2, and 3 while 4 still works, then you have a resistor pack problem.

If the motor fails on all 4 positions, then the resistor pack is probably OK and your problem could be any of the items 2 through 6.

The following assumes your blower motor is failing on all 4 speed positions. YOU MUST HAVE THE BLOWER MOTOR FAILING TO RUN AT THE TIME YOU DO THIS TEST.
Items 2 and 3 are the ground circuit for the blower motor. To tell if this is your problem, turn the blower motor switch to position 4 (High). If the blower is NOT running, then press the AC button. Look for the yellow light in the center of the AC button. It should be on. If not then press the AC button again. With the yellow light on, turn the blower motor speed switch to the "0" position. The yellow light should go out.

If the yellow light stays on, then you have a problem in the ground circuit which is either item 2 or 3 above.

If the light goes out in position 0, your ground circuit is OK and your failure is item 4, 5, or 6 above. Since you have already swapped item 4 and 5 then it must be item 6 that is failing.

To check item 6 unplug the blower motor and put a voltmeter (or test light) across the blower motor cable contacts with the fan set to position 4. Read the voltage. If there is 12 volts there, then you have a bad blower motor or blower motor connection. Remove the blower motor and as a final check, put 12 volts directly across the motor connector using your engine battery and a couple of jumper leads. This check is to absolutely verify that the motor is failing before you go buy a new one. You could also do this without removing the motor but you will need some long test leads.

I would say your chances are 90% or better that your problem is with items 1, 2, or 3.



Repair of item 1.
This the most common blower motor failure. Disconnect the resistor connector and look at the pins of both the resistor and the socket on the cable.
http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...s/resistor.gif
One of the pins will be burned brown in color.
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t..._Connector.jpg
http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z...dresistor1.jpg
http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z...connector2.jpg
This is your bad connection that needs to be fixed.

You have several choices:

1. A few people have cleaned up this connection and bent the burned pin (usually pin C) to make better contact and then reinstalled the connector. I do not like this solution because I feel it is not permanent, but if it works for you then fine. You will not hurt anything by trying it and if it fails again you can go to a more permanent solution below.
Insert picture here
2. Replace the resistor and entire cable assembly. These are available as part numbers 15218254 (resistor) and 89019124 cable assembly. There is also a part number for the connector only 15306069. For most people this solution is a permanent fix but a few have reported that the new ones also fail again a year or two later.

http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...PK15218254.jpg

Here is a you tube video of this replacement:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c9TRs_zkiNI

3. Replace the resistor and cable end (not the entire cable assembly) In this case the existing cable end is cut off and and a new end is spliced on to the existing cable. These parts are available in the after market from many sources including Rock Auto. GM part number for the cable end is: 15306069.
http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z...storblower.jpg

4. On the existing cable cut the connector off of the end and solder the cable conductors direct to the resistor. This is a permanent fix but involves a little more work than the ones above.
I do not know if we have a picture of this, If we do post it here.

Repair of item 2
There is a Splice Pack (SP106) located on the right inner fender. The Splice Pack is a 1.5" square black box with a metal tab sticking out. It is located behind the passenger side of the air cleaner. This connection (G106) to the fender is held by one horizontal bolt with a #10 head.
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...ndingPoint.jpg

Remove the bolt and clean the tab with a wire brush until there is no remaining corrosion or rust. Clean the fender around the bolt hole in the same manner. Now put some anti-oxidation grease on the tab and on the fender. Reassemble the splice pack using a tooth type washer between the Splice Pack and fender surface. Anti-oxidation grease is available in the electrical department of Home Depot. Lowes, Menards, or your local hardware store.

Repair of item 3
SP106 (the splice pack) has similar connectors to the resistor pack. The splice pack is the 1.5" square black box removed in item 2 above. Remove the box from the fender and then disassemble the top from the bottom of the box. There are a couple of plastic keepers holding it together. Inside you will find one of the connections burned (pin F) which is brown in color. Remove just that wire from the black box and install a ring electrical terminal connector on it. Now reassemble the box without pin F. Reinstall the box with anti-oxidation grease and a tooth washer and under the same bolt also install the removed wire with the ring terminal on it.
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...oundingBox.jpg

If you need or want a wiring diagram of the blower motor circuit please go here:
http://www.naskie18.com/colorado/schematics/05_Colorado_I5/AC%20Heater.pdf
That is it. Let us know what you find and please give us the results of the above tests. If you need more help simply ask here. Many, many people here have had to fix this problem so there is lots of experience available here.

Please look here for additional information and lots of good photos:
http://www.355nation.net/forum/how-i...placement.html

http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/results...ber=pk15218254

[naskie18]

Originally Posted by n9cv

Pardon my attitude on this but I and others have posted this many, many times here before. I'll still help but you but really you should go over the previous postings on this. There are literally pages and pages of postings so I'll summarize and you can go back and look at the previous posting for more details and pictures.

Problem is, that main thread is 60 freaking pages long.

One of the mods should just either sticky this post of yours with a link to that thread for all who want to read it or insert this information into the first post so it's in one easy to find location.

[n9cv]

Originally Posted by naskie18

Problem is, that main thread is 60 freaking pages long.

One of the mods should just either sticky this post of yours with a link to that thread for all who want to read it or insert this information into the first post so it's in one easy to find location.

Yes I realize how long it is. I just got tired of repeating the same thing over and over again. I wanted to help him but at the same time I wanted people in the future to be able to find the information without one of us having to type it up all over again.

I did not want to be a bad guy. The fellow truly needs the help and I hope we steered him in the right direction. I also hope he comes back if he does not find his problem. I would also like to know if he fixes it and what he found.

The sticky is a good idea. Let's see if that happens. I do not know any of the mods myself. I'm a relative new comer here.

I like your idea of a sticky. The problem is beside what I typed here yesterday there are some other good posts with additional information. As an example I'm thinking of the posting with the pictures of the splice pack with the burned wire removed and a ring terminal installed on it.

Ken

[login]

Happened to me last week .Mine was the connectors. It was burnt, dealer cut and spliced in a new set of connectors,instead of replacing whole harness. works perfectly now.

[n9cv]

Originally Posted by naskie18

Problem is, that main thread is 60 freaking pages long.

One of the mods should just either sticky this post of yours with a link to that thread for all who want to read it or insert this information into the first post so it's in one easy to find location.

OK, I went back to that original posting and edited it. I also added repair information. Please take a look at it. It still need part numbers for the resistor and cable plus I do not at this point know how to include the pictures. I also do not know if I can include other peoples pictures. I have no pictures of my own.

Please read the revised posting and tell me what you think. Is it good enough for a sticky. Also if you know of a simple way for me to steal other people's pictures and include them in this posting please tell me. Any help will be appreciated. I need to finish this right away because I'm headed to Ontario on Monday morning and probably will not be on line again until after Thanksgiving.

[Minnesota-Z71]

I am having kind of the same problem, my blower only works on 4. It does not blow anything until there. 1,2,3 all do not work is this caused by the same thing

[login]

I would say yes. Check the connectors the are probably burnt, replace the connectors and it should work ,they did not replace the resistor just the connectors.