Engine power loss - Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon


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Old 06-18-2012, 04:11 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Engine power loss

This has happened 3 times now. Usually after the truck sits for an entire day. First it's 3.5 I5 Manual tranny. Today I pulled out of the driveway went about 200' and total loss of engine power. When I had it in gear I would get nothing as far as rpms and there was a whole lot of shaking goin on, the engine was still running. If I took it out of gear I could get the engine to rev, but if I let off the gas it would start shaking again and the engine died. Started it back up, same thing. Did this about 3 times and then finally everything worked fine. Drove the rest of the day with no problems. The other 2 times this has happened pretty much the same situation except the truck didn't die on me power just came back after pulling off the side of the road. What I have did after the first time this happened happened. Replaced spark plugs. After the second time I cleaned the throttle body, cleaned the MAF, replaced fuel filter and used a small bottle of lucas fuel injector cleaner.

Any ideas fellow fans
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Old 06-18-2012, 04:39 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Did you get a check engine SES/CEL light on your dash? If you didn't, then either get an OBDII scanner or go to AutoZone and see if you get any pending codes on the engine's ECU.

This could be symptoms of any number of known issues with the engine or even the electrical systems, namely any of the engine's sensors. Given that you've already checked for some of the most common issues with the engine, hopefully this will narrow down your search for the cause.

IMHO, given the behaviour of what you're describing, if I had to say, it's most likely a sensor. Most likely the MAP to be specific, is probably at fault, as it made my truck do some pretty random instances of loss of power like you're describing and then go right back to normal for a while like nothing happened.

Anyway, hope this helps, let us know what you find with the scanner! *thumbsup*
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Old 06-18-2012, 04:56 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks for the advice Colly. Didn't get any lights on the dash at all. I will try to get to Autozone sometime in the next couple of days to see if there are any pending codes. It's definitely weird how it happens. Truck might as well be a brick when it's doin it then right after runs great. I drive around 600-700 miles per week, Monday mornings seem to be when this little ordeal decides to pop up. I'll keep you all posted on my findings.
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Old 06-18-2012, 05:27 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I have a similar problem after the head was replaced due to the recall.
It does not stall but, my truck has not been the same since!
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Old 06-23-2012, 07:42 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Mine is doing the exact same thing, especially if the truck has been sitting for a day or so. Once I start down the road it seems to lose engine power (same as stated above). I put it in neutral and rev it until it seems to "blow out" whatever seems to be the problem and then the truck runs fine the rest of the day. I thought it might be bad gas, water in the fuel.....and once you burn through it it runs OK.......but now I have my doubts because it happens quite regaularly now. Any ideas of what it could be would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 06-24-2012, 07:52 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Ok so I went to Autozone to see if they could pull any kind of code and they got nothing. The guy at Autozone didn't know much about anything, other than pulling the codes, so pointless to ask him. So honestly I am at a total loss. I would doubt it is bad gas at this point. I have tried gas from at least 3 different locations, different brands, even in different parts of the city. Ran it as far down as I could each time. (I drive for work so that part was easy) I am starting to think the problem is constantly there just not as bad if it hasn't been sitting. I swear I can feel a little chug here and there when I am cruising down the road. Of course that could just be me trying to find something at this point.

I thought about going to a junk yard and pulling a MAP sensor, but none of the local yards have any Canyons or Colorados (wtf). If anyone has had the problem and solved it, I as well as others I am sure, would be grateful
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Old 06-25-2012, 10:55 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Yes, check your sensors, starting with the MAP. I hardly ever got any warning of it going out, much less any codes indicating the sensor was failing right up until it was blatantly obvious and putting the truck in reduced power mode. The only real code I ever got was a P0300 code which is very difficult at times to diagnose! If you could borrow someone else's MAP sensor out of their Colly/Canyon/Isuzu I-Series truck to see if it still runs bad, that would be ideal and the cheapest way to test it.

See if you can get a junkyard or parts place from online that can ship you a gently used MAP sensor for cheap. Also, check your fuses! (fusebox is in the engine compartment to your front-right side, right in front of the battery)

Regardless, good luck and let us know if this fixes your problem!
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Old 06-26-2012, 12:05 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I'll give the map sensor a shot. Found one online for $18. Once it gets here I'll let you all know. I really hope that it takes care of it, becoming quite an annoyance to have to pull off the side of the road every Monday to wait till she works through it.
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Old 06-26-2012, 10:13 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Good news Tmoney, hopefully this will solve your issue!

OH yes, I forgot one other thing for you to test with the MAP sensor Tmoney...

While the engine is idling, gently wiggle the electrical connector to the MAP sensor on your engine and see if the engine stumbles and/or throws the check engine light or gives a pending P0300/P030(whatever cylinder) code. You may just need to replace the electrical connector to solve your problem as the sensor may not get accurate voltage due to a broken wire on the connector plug itself, therefore causing the power loss you're getting.

Also, to make sure the plug/sensor does not move around as well if it is the plug, is to put some electrical tape around the top of the securing clip that holds the MAP sensor in place. Securing your MAP sensor further will help as well as even slight vibrations can make the MAP go screwy, as it's VERY sensitive.
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Old 09-05-2012, 10:10 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Haven't posted to this in a while. So here's the update. Popped in the new MAP sensor, didn't have a problem for about a month. Didn't run great, but didn't do the normal, make me pull of the side of the road and turn the hazards on in the morning, as I was growing accustomed to. Of course like all good gremlins, it started acting up again. So thanks to colley shifters advice, I shook the MAP ever so slightly while idling and she chugged, spit and sputtered. No codes though (another wtf). Replaced the electrical connector to the MAP, wrapped it up with some electrical tape, broke the dang clip of that locks it in place...great. However was able to secure it with a zip tie, probably tighter than the clip. Has been going strong for about 2 weeks now. I'm thinking that when I put in the new MAP it got a nice initial connection, but the month worth of driving took its toll on it, and shook loose whatever was causing the issue again. Hopefully this time it keeps going strong. Fingers crossed
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