:welcome to C'Fans.

Most likely suspect would be the ignition switch. Next in line would be the BCM. The ignition switch could also cause the intermittent security issue.

[ame]http://smile.amazon.com/ACDelco-D1403G-Original-Equipment-Ignition/dp/B0010GKZTE/ref=au_as_r?ie=UTF8&Make=Chevrolet|47&Model=Colorado|2484&Year=2007|2007&n=15684181&s=automotive&vehicleId=12&vehicleType=automotive[/ame]

 

Thanks for the reply. I have had the battery disconnected for an hour and am now going to check and see if that 'reset' anything. It may be a symptom of the PassLock system... I'm just not sure.

 

Well... I hooked the battery back up and tested it. No change.

So in case the PassLock was the problem... with it running (key being held to keep it running) I cut the Blue/White wire that disables the PassLock system. It still didn't stay running. However, the PassLock warning light stayed on just as it should when the wire is cut. But since that wasn't the problem, I spliced the Blue/White wire back together.

So I'm back at square one...

Truck cranks up, but you have to keep the key turned to the 'Start' position to keep it running. Release the key (it goes back to the run position) and the truck instantly dies.

I checked all fuses that had anything to do with Ignition and all were good. I also swapped around the relays to see if I could move the problem which would indicate a bad relay. Nothing changed. Same results.

I'm an electrical guy (but not automotive).. and it acts like it is a contact issue. Like it just doesn't make the switch in the 'Run' position. I've jiggled and wiggled everything I could and exercised the key many times. Still no change. I haven't sprayed WD-40 into the key hole yet though. I reckon that is my next step.

Or should I purchase a new ignition switch and go through the removal of the steering wheel and all to test that possibility? That would be a hassle if it didn't work.

Help!!!! Any more ideas?

Thanks,
chad

 

Just to clarify, as the ignitions systems are different. You aren't in Canada, are you? In the Amazon link that I posted, the picture shows the part in the only configuration available. The Service Manual instructions, for replacement of the ignition switch, say to remove the two screws that retain the switch and remove just the switch. I have looked at the installation on my truck and I think that the Service Manual information is accurate.

Now for the bad (or maybe good) news. If you are in Canada, no programming is necessary after replacing the ignition switch. If you are in the US, a Dealer (or well equipped shop) will have to program the new switch, before it will start the truck.

If you go to a Dealer, the price of the switch, in the US, will be $83.52 and shouldn't take more than an hour to replace/program. So, if you can convince the Service Department to just remove the switch from the assembly to change it, it shouldn't cost much over $200. If you are lucky, you will find a Service Department that is helpful and concerned about the customer. Good luck with that.

PM sent.

Note: A Dealer could also confirm that the source of the problem is the ignition switch or the BCM.

 

Ok.. I've ordered the ignition switch. Should come in Friday. So my plan is to install it over the weekend and then trailer my truck to the dealership next week to have them re-program the switch. I will load the truck on the trailer before I do the work to make my life easier! haha I can still drive it while holding the key in the 'start' position, so that ought to work. Anything that I am not thinking about or missing?

Thanks,
chad

 

Currently experiencing the same thing with my 2007 Colorado. Do you happen to the part number of the ignition switch?

Thank you

 

Sounds like you have it covered. Please return and update this Thread as you are the first guy, that I have read about, to attempt this. Thanks.

 

Aight... so let me see if I can post a picture... I went and got my trailer (an hour away) and loaded the Colorado on it wile holding the ignition in the 'start' position to keep it running... just in case I had to take it to the dealership.

A'int she cute!!!

 

So I had already taken off the covers to access the ignition switch... I disconnected the battery.. waited 30minutes, then with the key in the 'acc' position removed the passlock ignition switch. I replaced it with the new one that came with the assembly yesterday.

Here's what she looks like on the steering column...

 

Here's the new one attached to the connector and the old one in my hand...

 

And this is what it looks like where the ignition switch attaches...

 

So anyhow... I assembled it all... reconnected the battery... and gave it a go.

The engine turned over, but no fire. The PassLock alarm light came on and continued to blink.

So I just left the key in the 'Run' position and waited. I figured I give the "PassLock Reset" sequence a try before hauling it to the dealership next week.

I waited 10 minutes, (Alarm light had quit blinking and went off), turned it off for 30 seconds, and then tried it again. Same results.

Waited 10 more minutes.. did it again. Same results.

Waited 10 more minutes... same results.

Waited 10 more minutes... and SHE FIRED UP!!!!! AND STAYED RUNNING WHEN I LET GO OF THE KEY!!!!!!!!!!!! WOOOOHOOOOO!!!!!!!!
:grin2::grin2::grin2::grin2:

 

So all is well now... no issue with the truck staying running, and no passlock alarm light.

ALL IS GOOD!!

Thanks so much for all the help! And a special BIG thanks to Byron!!! I really appreciate it!!

Hopefully this will help someone in the future as well!

Now I've got to get my trailer back to storage... but I'm ok with that. I figured it was 10,000 times easier to already have the truck on the trailer if I needed to get it to the dealership than trying to load it when it wouldn't crank! Good insurance.. haha!

:grin2::grin2::grin2::grin2:

 

Great news! I'm surprised that you didn't need to get the switch programmed. It must have learned the security code by itself. Thanks for updating this Thread, especially with the valuable pictures. Can you perform an autopsy on the old switch, or is it sealed?

 

I reckon I could break it apart. ?? The 'plunger' in the middle (where the ignition makes contact) is still 'springy'... I thought that might have been the issue, but it feels just like the new one. Put them both in your hand and mix them around and you couldn't tell them apart.

I was really pleased that the thing learned the security code... if it didn't, I was going to separate the blue/white wire to try disabling the Passlock system before going to the dealer. I was fully expecting to trailer it to the dealership.

chad

 

I know this is an old thread. The radio in my 05 Canyon would not turn off automatically after I turned off the ignition and opened the door. If it did turn off, it would eventually come back on while sitting overnight. Several mornings I came out to my radio on. I believe the ignition switch was sticking in the "ACC" mode even with the key out.

I changed out the ignition switch (Delco D1462G) without changing out the entire housing which was not necessary. Took all about 15 minutes and the most special tool I needed was a stubby phillips.

I programmed the switch with the 30 minute learn procedure I read on this forum.

Thanks to all that provide information on this forum. It is great!

James

 

That is awesome! I'm glad it worked out for you!

Chad

 

That's great guys, double fix!

OG Thanks for posting up pics with detail instructions.
I will point others with the same issue to your thread.

 

Just wanted to add my experience since some others may buy used trucks as me. I bought a used 2007 Colorodo Crew Cab 5Cyl. I have experienced this issue so I decided to replace the PassLock Sensor. You need to buy this part below. You don't need to replace the whole cylinder part, just remove the black plastic part(Passlock Sensor) out and install it on your car. To remove the failed passlock sensor, put the key in and move to acc level(the second one) then remove the screws from the plastic black part and it will slide out. On the new part, you will need a flat screw driver to function as the key. Inside the gray metal cylinder, you will see an small slot. Insert the screw driver and turn in as you would do when turning a key to the access level. Be gentile. Then remove the screws and the new passlock sensor will come out. Install it on your car and follow the Relearn steps exactly. Mine worked fine for about 2 months and then did the issue again... but hours later my battery died so it was a bad battery. Replaced it, and it has not happened again for more than a month.

Part: Amazon.com: ACDelco D1403G GM Original Equipment Ignition Lock Housing: Automotive

 

Just wanted to add my experience since some others may buy used trucks as me. I bought a used 2007 Colorodo Crew Cab 5Cyl. I have experienced this issue so I decided to replace the PassLock Sensor. You need to buy this part below. You don't need to replace the whole cylinder part, just remove the black plastic part(Passlock Sensor) out and install it on your car. To remove the failed passlock sensor, put the key in and move to acc level(the second one) then remove the screws from the plastic black part and it will slide out. On the new part, you will need a flat screw driver to function as the key. Inside the gray metal cylinder, you will see an small slot. Insert the screw driver and turn in as you would do when turning a key to the access level. Be gentile. Then remove the screws and the new passlock sensor will come out. Install it on your car and follow the Relearn steps exactly. Mine worked fine for about 2 months and then did the issue again... but hours later my battery died so it was a bad battery. Replaced it, and it has not happened again for more than a month.

Part: Amazon.com: ACDelco D1403G GM Original Equipment Ignition Lock Housing: Automotive

Could you please provide a link to the relearn you used, seems it doesn't work for lots of people. Thanks!

 

I just ran into this problem w/my 09'. Previously the truck was still at least attempting to crank over but when I bought the new sensor, and installed it, the truck now ceases to crank at all. I still went through the same steps you described to see if I just needed to be patient but no luck. I really don't want to go through installing the new ignition switch (if that might help) unless I was confident that it would fix the issue. There are no other lights, like battery, that are lit up so I don't think its my battery. Any thoughts?

 

Jump it to be sure it's not the battery, or at least try cranking with the lights on to see if they go dim.

 

It was the battery. I put a charger on it and it cranked over eventually! I'm a dummy