TIP: GM Oil Life System - How to reset Change Oil Message - Page 4 - Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon
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post #61 of 74 (permalink) Old 01-21-2010, 07:46 PM
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Re: TIP: GM Oil Life System - How to reset Change Oil Message

I'd NEVER trust the computer over my own judgement with a naked eye.

Rule of thumb my father (a motor-head and ex-mechanic of many years of experience) taught me was to physically check the oil every time you fill up the tank.
After doing this for a couple oil changes, you'll learn how the oil darkens and becomes less transparent with time and usage. At this point, once you've learned the aging process, you can check it less frequently. I always change my oil just before it is no longer transparent. I know my driving habits that affect the life of the oil and know that I end up changing my oil every 3000-3400 on traditional oil and 5500-6000 on synthetic.

This is coming from a family that has had (4) 200,000+ mile original engine vehicles. All GM engines: 5.3 v8, (2) 4.3 vortec v6's, and now a 4.8 v8 as well. I'd say that's enough proof to support this oil-life rule of thumb. Don't just use my numbers. You have different driving habits and dirt conditions than I do so just go through the process yourself. Your engine will surely last longer because of it.

Bottom line: DO NOT TRUST THE COMPUTER! 12k is never acceptable. Check it yourself

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post #62 of 74 (permalink) Old 01-22-2010, 10:33 AM
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Re: TIP: GM Oil Life System - How to reset Change Oil Message

Hey.. did you ever find out what put the hole in your oil filter ? sounds weird I've owned many cars, trucks harleys you name it, If it has motor oil in it you should change it reguarly . Dirty oil increses engine wear ! As stated here before, it's the cheapist Ins. you can buy for any motor ie: lawnmower,snowblower,cars,trucks,motorcycles

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post #63 of 74 (permalink) Old 01-22-2010, 08:08 PM
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Re: TIP: GM Oil Life System - How to reset Change Oil Message

Get the oil analyzed and see how accurate the the OLM really is. http://blogs.insideline.com/roadtests/2 ... e-oil.html

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post #64 of 74 (permalink) Old 03-31-2010, 04:03 PM
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Re: TIP: GM Oil Life System - How to reset Change Oil Message

From another message board (that lives and breathes only oil) -


My spelling is poor but ZDP stands for zinc dialkyldithiophosphate which , as it sounds, is an anti-wear compound comprised of zinc and phosphorus.

ZDP is dispersed in the oil so as to be at a potential wear site if a surface asperity happens to break thru the oil film thickness causing the dreaded metal-to-metal contact. A molecule of ZDP must be present at that moment to prevent microwelding at the contact site which will cause material transfer, scuffing, scoring, wear and catostrophic failure. The concentration of ZDP in the oil will determine if there is ZDP present to work it's magic. The greater the concentration...the more likely a molecule of ZDP will be there...and vice versa.

By nature, ZDP is sacrifical. As ZDP is "used up" at a wear site to prevent micorwelding the concentration of ZDP decreases.... So...if you measure the ZDP concentration in engine oil in a running engine it will decrease at linear rate based on engine revolutions. Any given engine has a certain number of high potential wear areas where metal-to-metal contact could occur due to reduced film thickness and/or surface asperities....areas such as rubbing element cam followers, distributor gears, rocker arm pivots, push rod tips, etc...... The more of these areas the more ZDP depletion. The more often these features come in contact the greater the ZDP depletion. That is why, generally speaking, ZDP concentration in the oil, for any given engine, will decrease at a fairly linear rate when plotted versus cummulative engine revolutions. The more times it turns the more contact the more chance for wear the greater the depletion. This is as much of a fact as I could quote ever and is really not speculation or anything. It is proven beyond a shadow of a doubt in many studies. That is why it is ONE of the basis for determining oil life remaining and why it is THE basic premis of the GM oil life algorithm. It is only ONE of the things that determines oil life...but it is the one thing that can be tied to engine operation in a linear fashion and estimated very accurately by accumulating engine revolutions via a counter.

The GM engine oil life monitor counts engine revolutions and accumulates the number for the basis of the oil life calculation. It then adds deterioration factors for operating temperature, start up temperature, soak times, ambient, coolant temperature, etc... There are a LOT of factors that "adjust" or affect the slope of the deterioration but the fundamental deterioration is traced back to the ZDP depletion that is inescapable with engine revolutions. The specific rate of ZDP depletion is readily measurable for any given engine so that is the fundamental item that is first calibrated for the oil life algorithm to tailor it specifically to that engine.

You would obviously like to get the oil out of the engine before the ZDP concentration gets so low that it is ineffective at being at the right place at the right time and preventing engine wear so that becomes the long term limit on oil life for that application.

The other things that determine oil life such a acid build up, oxidation, petane insuluables such as silicon from dust/dirt, carbon or soot build up from the EGR in blowby, water contamination, fuel contamination, etc.... are all modeled by the multipliers or deterioration factors that "adjust" the immediate slope of the line defined by the engine revolution counter as those items can be modeled in other ways and accounted for in the immediate slope of the ZDP depletion line.

The algorithm was developed over the course of many years by several lubrication experts at GM Fuels and Lubes, spearheaded by Doctor Shirley Schwartz who holds the patents (with GM) for the algorithm and the oil life montitor. I had the luck of working directly with Dr. Schwartz when the idea of the oil life monitor first progressed from the theoretical/lab stage to real world testing/development/validation. There were fleets of cars operated under all conditions that deteriorate the oil life for any and every reason and , thru oil sampling and detailed analysis of the oil condition, the algorithm was developed, fine tuned and validated to be the most accurate way invented yet to recommend an oil change interval by. As just one example, I have seen cars driven side-by-side on trips, one towing a trailer and one not, for instance, to prove the effectiveness of the oil life monitor in deteriorating the oil at a faster rate just because of the higher load, higher average RPM, higher temps, etc...and it works flawlessly.

The oil life monitor is so effective because: it is customized for that specific vehicle/engine, it takes everything into account that deteriorates the oil, it is ALWAYS working so as to take into account THAT INDIVIDUALS driving schedule, and it tailors the oil change to that schedule and predicts, on an ongoing basis, the oil life remaining so that that specific individual can plan an oil change accordingly. No other system can do this that effectively.

One thing is that I know personally from years of testing and thousands of oil analysis that the oil life algorithm works. There is simply no argument to the contrary. If you don't believe me, fine, but, trust me, it works. It is accurate because it has been calibrated for each specific engine it is installed on and there is considerable testing and validation of the oil life monitor on that specific application. NOt something that oil companies or Amsoil do. They generalize....the oil life monitor is very specific for that application.

Oil condition sensors in some BMW and Mercedes products are useful, also. They have their limitations, though, as they can be blind to some contaminates and can, themselves, be contaminated by certain markers or constituents of certain engine oils. Oil condition sensors can only react to the specific oil at that moment and they add complexity, cost and another potential item to fail. One other beauty of the GM oil life monitor is that it is all software and does not add any mechanical complexity, mass, wiring or potential failure mechanism.

There is considerable safety factor in the GM oil life monitor. Typically, I would say, there is a 2:1 safety factor in the slope of the ZDP depletion curve....in other words, zero percent oil life per the ZDP depletion is not zero ZDP but twice the concentration of ZDP considered critical for THAT engine to operate under all conditions reliably with no wear. This is always a subject of discussion as to just how low do you want the ZDP to get before the oil is "worn out" if this is the deciding factor for oil life. We would tend to be on the conservative side. If the oil life is counting down on a slope that would recommend a 10K change interval then there is probably 20K oil life before the ZDP is catostrophically depleted....not that you would want to go there...but reason why many people are successful in running those change intervals.

Please...NOT ALL ENGINES ARE THE SAME. The example above is an excellent practical justification of why you would want to add EOS and change the 15W40 Delvac in the muscle car at 3000 miles max and yet can run the Northstar to 12500 easily on conventional oil. You must treat each engine and situation differently and what applies to one does not retroactively apply to others. This is where Amsoil falls short in my book by proposing long change intervals in most everything if you use their oil. It just doesn't work that way. You can run the Amsoil to 12500 with no concerns whatsoever in the late model Northstar because even the oil life monitor tells you that for conventional oil off the shelf. Would I do that to the 502 in my 66 Chevelle...NO WAY. Amsoil says I can though. Wrong.


There are entire SAE papers written on the GM oil life monitor and one could write a book on it so it is hard to touch on all aspects of it in a single post. Hopefully we hit the high spots. Realize that a GREAT deal of time, work and energy went into developing the oil life monitor and it has received acclaim from engineering organizations, petroleum organizations, environmental groups all across the board. It is not some widget invented in a week and tacked onto the car.

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post #65 of 74 (permalink) Old 05-12-2010, 02:25 AM
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Re: TIP: GM Oil Life System - How to reset Change Oil Message

OMG I did not read that last extra legthy post but what I can say is that I work changing oil and the newer the engine the longer you can go with a clean oil. The 3000 miles were stablished at a time when cars didnt last and is still a preatty good standar if you dont know about cars. As said before you can never over do it. But if you know a little you can see that going over 5000 on conventional oil is a sin while using a synthetic oil and trusting your sistem is just fine (no the best, just fine)

Also if you have over 100K miles dont chanve your oil to a 10W 30, your engine was disegned to work better with a 5W 30. Yes the 10W 30 is thicker and will give you a better protection but you are not taking in consideration the fact that the first number 5 or 10 comes into play when your engine is cold and the oil is neded to go everywhere as fast as possible. The 5W 30 will reach every corner of your engine faster therefore providing the best protetcion when most needed. And by having this info dont try a 0W 30 because yes it will protect better at start up (cold engine) but you will find wet spots all over your gaskets because the oil is to thin.

And no matter wich GM car you drive if you do the gas pedal 3 times all the way from top to bottom in less than 10 secons chances are your oil life system will reset. I have seen ONE GM vehicle that didnt do that and it was a Cadillac Devile. Dont ask me why but I had to go through the system chech to reset it, the pedal trick didnt work (tried 3 times lol)

And let them ride!!
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post #66 of 74 (permalink) Old 06-19-2011, 03:32 PM
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Re: TIP: GM Oil Life System - How to reset Change Oil Message

both methods worked just fine!! (got overkill?)

1. Turn the ignition to RUN with the engine OFF.
2. Press and release the reset button in the driver information center (DIC) until the OIL LIFE message is displayed.
3. Once the alternating OIL LIFE and RESET messages appear on the DIC display, press and hold the reset stem until several beeps sound. This confirms the OIL LIFE system has been reset.
4. Turn the key to lock. If the CHANGE OIL message comes back on when you start the engine, the ENGINE OIL LIFE system has not reset. Repeat the procedure


Alternate Method
1. Turn the ignition key to RUN with the engine off.
2. Fully press and release the accelerator pedal 3 times within 5 seconds. Several beeps sound. This confirms the oil life system has been reset.
3. If the CHANGE/OIL message comes back on when you start the engine, the engine oil life system has not reset. Repeat the procedure

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post #67 of 74 (permalink) Old 01-24-2012, 05:07 PM
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Oil message reset

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1.Turn key to on
2.Push odometer button, until oil message comes up
3.Push and hold button until it beeps 5 times
4.Turn key back to off and than start the truck
If no message appears ....All Good, If not start again
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post #68 of 74 (permalink) Old 02-17-2012, 01:10 AM
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I tried all of the suggestions here.
I've only had my truck for a couple of months and the first time I needed an oil change it was complimentary at a local shop. I was sitting in the truck while they did it and reset it while the oil was out of the motor.
3k miles later, I do it myself. Change the oil and try to reset the oil life afterward.
I guess I didn't do it right or something b/c nao I see Oil life reset and can't seem to get it to reset.
Tried pumping the gas with it in run position and engine off.
Tried holding odometer stem for minutes.
Coincidentally I just got the SVC 4WD message to go away by turning the key on and off a few times. Pretty sure that board under the driver seat is wet tho due to my leaky back glass...
I do have an aftermarket stereo and didn't bother with the factory beep

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Last edited by Ralfothegreat; 02-17-2012 at 01:12 AM. Reason: added more detail to post
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post #69 of 74 (permalink) Old 02-17-2012, 12:30 PM
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Some of us here might remember when gas had lead in it. The oil change interval was 3K miles, as I recall.
In 1975, cars started coming with a catalytic converter, and those cards required unleaded fuel, as lead will kill a cat quick. The oil change interval suddenly became 7.5K miles, per manufacturer. Rational=no lead=oil doesn't load up with lead as fast and will last longer.
My dad bought a 1976 Impala, he refused to go along with the 7.5K interval. He did it at 3K, as he always had in the past on everything he ever owned.
I am in aviation. We still use lead in aviation gasoline (100LL). The general rule is we change the oil on a piston engine every 50 hours of operation.
It doesn't matter what oil brand or alleged quality, the interval is 50 hours. The filter is done at the same time. Nome of the oil change intervals are FAA regulatory, just recommended by the engine manufacturer (recommendations that have never changed, even after newer oils were developed). This is followed fairly religiously.
The filter must be cut open at least once a year (which destroys it).
The purpose for cutting it open isn't to check for dirt or for getting cleaner oil, it is to check for metal, to assess the health of the engine.
We used to skip the filter every other 50 hours to go to 100 hours. The filter looked the same. Some we let go on the oil until 100 hours of time. When the time came for engine overhaul at around 2000 hours of operation, the internals of the engine were just as good as when the filter was done at 50 hours religiously.

The conclusion was oil changes are done more often than needed, a lot of money was wasted on oil and filters.

I think that if you are going to change the oil at 3K miles, you should skip the filter till 6K miles and refrain from ever using any expensive oil. It is all overkill. Use the SuperTech WalMArt oil or equivalent. Forget the Pennzoil, etc. It's hype.

5W30 is recommended because it flows better when it is cold. acting like a 5 weight oil at the low temperature. and it acts like a 30 weight oil at running temperatures. But the true reason 10W30 or 40 is not recommended is gas mileage and warm up drivability.
We have come a long way from when crude oil was used direct in the crankcase.

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Last edited by wildbilll; 02-17-2012 at 12:39 PM.
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post #70 of 74 (permalink) Old 06-04-2012, 02:47 AM
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Somebody help me the 4x4 does not work, I get the light on the dashboard of service 4wd,,, I stopped working the buttons on the 4x4,,,

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post #71 of 74 (permalink) Old 06-04-2012, 02:47 AM
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Somebody help me the 4x4 does not work, I get the light on the dashboard of service 4wd,,, I stopped working the buttons on the 4x4,,,

Deshacer cambios
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post #72 of 74 (permalink) Old 09-27-2014, 01:12 PM
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Any way to disable this feature altogether?

I will not be needing it...
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post #73 of 74 (permalink) Old 06-21-2015, 09:17 PM
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oil light

Quote:
Originally Posted by kdeatrick View Post
They don't recommend removing the breakin oil that early. They haven't for a few years.

Also the DIC will not show the percentage left on our trucks. The manual for the 2004 models had a mis-print.
dont feel bad, my chimes DON`t work, but $ 500.00 and $ 250.00 insall fee, will fix it. i don`t think so. i live with no sound. and oil light dose NOT say
100% on my 04 colorado.
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post #74 of 74 (permalink) Old 12-10-2015, 03:49 PM
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Just reset it on my 06 after changing the oil, I have factory stereo so the beeps worked, but if you don't have factory stereo I would just hold button in (while it is flashing oil and reset) for a good 10 seconds to make sure. I would not have been able to tell anything happened without the beeps as the dash did not change. Anyway, the instructions are right in the owner's manual, page 5-17. I found a downloadable manual easily online for free.
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