fan motor, only works on 4 (high) - Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-14-2016, 06:35 PM Thread Starter
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fan motor, only works on 4 (high)

Hi, My 05 Colorado fan only works on high (#4) 1, 2 and 3 nothing blows, turn it to 4 and it blows hard like it is supposed to. I figure it can't be a fuse as it blows on 4.


Any ideas?


Thanks,
Spike
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-14-2016, 06:47 PM
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Yup, common problem, the connector to the blower will show it as being burnt and you have to replace some items. It's not hard to do, but reaching the connectors through glove box once removed can be a bit of a PITA, but overall the job is fairly easy...see the following:

HVAC Fan Motor: Resistor & Connector replacement (MMP)
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Last edited by bac522; 04-15-2016 at 08:13 AM.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-14-2016, 06:48 PM
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I may be able to help as I had a h3 with a similar problem. Poke your head underneath the glove box (may require some awkward positions to accomplish) and look for 2 wires connecting. The connector is possibly melted. I think a new harness was 60 bucks and it's relatively easy to do yourself.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-14-2016, 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Spike Lewis View Post
Hi, My 05 Colorado fan only works on high (#4) 1, 2 and 3 nothing blows, turn it to 4 and it blows hard like it is supposed to. I figure it can't be a fuse as it blows on 4.


Any ideas?


Thanks,
Spike
to C'Fans.

Fan speeds 1 thru 3 are controlled by a resistor module mounted in the bottom of the HVAC case, forward of the glove box. There are some good diagrams in the link in Post #2, however the view is upside down. Look for a connector with four wires (Tan/Light Blue/Orange/Yellow). You might get lucky and find that only the resistor module is bad, but there have been a lot of problems with burned pins in the connectors.

If you don't find a problem with burned pins in the connector, just replace the resistor module. The part number is 15218254. A Dealer will get $20.68 +tax for one. If you have Amazon Prime, you can get one from them for $13.77.

If you find problems with the wiring, post back. There are a couple of ways to solve the issue.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-23-2016, 10:36 PM
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Newbie here. Had this problem for several years. I can bump the bottom of the blower motor / fan housing once or more times and speeds 1-3 will return (4 is always good). Might be good for months or minutes. Sounds like a poor connector / connection to me but I have no idea. Is this similar to the above problems / solutions or is this it's own unique issue? Thanks.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-24-2016, 02:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bamashooter View Post
Newbie here. Had this problem for several years. I can bump the bottom of the blower motor / fan housing once or more times and speeds 1-3 will return (4 is always good). Might be good for months or minutes. Sounds like a poor connector / connection to me but I have no idea. Is this similar to the above problems / solutions or is this it's own unique issue? Thanks.
yep same thing. I ended up soldering the connections on my '07 so they wouldn't burn.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-24-2016, 08:09 AM
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Thanks. As I watched a couple of videos on the subject last night it appeared to me that a poorly fit connector to the resistor assembly might cause arching of the pins which would result in the frying of the resistor pack / pins. Seems like years ago as I was researching this issue I ran across a thread here which included a detailed analysis of this common problem. I'm thinking the analysis was performed by a member here who was either an engineer or an electronics technician. His findings were too much power was going to the resistor pack causing them to cook. Or it could be my sometimes out of control imagination. For years now I have carried a small bat which allows me to lean over a bit from the driver seat and whack the bottom of the housing to get the blower running again. Thanks again buddy.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-24-2016, 08:26 AM
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I have carried a small bat which allows me to lean over a bit from the driver seat and whack the bottom of the housing to get the blower running again. Thanks again buddy.
Just fix it, parts are cheap and for the most part it's a real easy job, hard part is just getting the connectors back together using one hand through the glovebox opening...that took me the longest amount of time.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-24-2016, 06:14 PM
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Thanks guys. I'll check it out next week after I recuperate from Christmas. Merry Christmas to you all.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-25-2016, 02:42 AM
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This is a very, very, very common problem. I have fixed a few Colorados with this problem over the years. The basic problem is the connector size is marginal. It works most of the time but either due to its small size or weak tension on the connection, some of them go bad and eventually burn at the resistor. There are other locations in this truck that also occasionally burn due to the same problem.

Speed #4 does not go through the resistor.

One operational thing you can do to reduce the chance of it burning is to not use speed position #3. Position #3 draws the most current through the resistor pack increasing the chance of burning if the connection is marginal.

I have never burned one in my truck but I did years ago burn the speed switch mounted in the dash. That failure is less common. Since then I never use position #3.

2005 White 2wd Z71 WT
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-25-2016, 06:24 AM
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Thanks guys. I'll check it out next week after I recuperate from Christmas. Merry Christmas to you all.
to C'Fans.

Keep us posted on your findings.
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-25-2016, 10:54 AM
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to C'Fans.

Keep us posted on your findings.
Will do. Thanks.
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-25-2016, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by n9cv View Post
This is a very, very, very common problem. I have fixed a few Colorados with this problem over the years. The basic problem is the connector size is marginal. It works most of the time but either due to its small size or weak tension on the connection, some of them go bad and eventually burn at the resistor. There are other locations in this truck that also occasionally burn due to the same problem.

Speed #4 does not go through the resistor.

One operational thing you can do to reduce the chance of it burning is to not use speed position #3. Position #3 draws the most current through the resistor pack increasing the chance of burning if the connection is marginal.

I have never burned one in my truck but I did years ago burn the speed switch mounted in the dash. That failure is less common. Since then I never use position #3.
Considering seeing if I can stabilize the connector better with silicon, rubber, felt, something. Kind of along the line (loosely) of a weatherproof connector. Just make a good tight fit. If that doesn't appear doable, go the conventional route and choose one of the suggested remedies. My screwed up back is already hurting.
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