A dash Harness - Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon
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post #1 of 29 (permalink) Old 11-07-2016, 06:43 PM Thread Starter
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Question A dash Harness

So my A/C was only blowing on four then before I could change the resistor my entire A/C stopped working. I replaced the resistor, and the entire harness. Well after I replaced it my air is still not working. I took it to a mechanic and they said my Dash Harness is bad (the wires are burnt). They wanted $1,300 to replace it. I would much rather figure out what harness they are talking about and learn how to replace it myself. Does anyone know anything about this? Thank you
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post #2 of 29 (permalink) Old 11-07-2016, 07:16 PM Thread Starter
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HARNESS. Chassis Wiring. WIRING HARNESS/INSTRUMENT PANEL for 2007 Chevrolet COLORADO. #15812324

Im almost positive this is the part. I need to find out how to take the dash apart and what else I need to do to remove the old one and put a new one in. I no nothing about what all this will entail.
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post #3 of 29 (permalink) Old 11-07-2016, 07:46 PM
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Okay, I hope you haven't ordered that harness yet. If so, I suggest that you cancel that. It sounds like the mechanic. that you took your truck to, doesn't have a lot of experience with these trucks. If all that you have done is to replace the HVAC harness and resistor module, there are some other places to check.

If you haven't already done so, check and clean the ground point for the circuit. You will need to remove the engine air filter case. Behind that case, mounted to the fender wall with one bolt, there is a small black box with wires going into the bottom of it. Remove the mount bolt and clean the mating surfaces of the fender and the box tab. Pull LIGHTLY on the wires going into the box to check and see if any are broken inside. Let us know what happens.

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post #4 of 29 (permalink) Old 11-07-2016, 08:21 PM Thread Starter
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I have not ordered anything. I have already looked at the black box. I scrapped off some white paint with a screw driver around the bolt. Is there anyway to get inside the little black box? I couldn't figure out how to get into the black box, I was going to try and clean whatever was inside of it. Thank you for offering to help me. I know very little about mechanical stuff and I just moved to a new state and left my family (Dad and Uncles) who would always help me.
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post #5 of 29 (permalink) Old 11-07-2016, 09:04 PM
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Lets back up and you tell us all that you have already done to the truck, regarding this issue. If we don't know what you have already tried, we are going to waste a lot of time going over redundant points. If you have voltage at the blower connector the problem is going to be on the ground side of the circuit.

The box can be pried open with a small screwdriver. If you look closely at the cover you will see that it is retained by two molded in "ears" that interlock with the box. It will require a bit of effort to remove the top from the box due to the friction of the pins.


Last edited by cart7881; 11-07-2016 at 09:10 PM.
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post #6 of 29 (permalink) Old 11-08-2016, 12:25 PM Thread Starter
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I have no idea what happened but its now working. I went to walmart to buy some wire to see if the motor would run off straight power and when I came back out to the truck I decided to just try it again seeing how I haven't tried since I got it back from the shop and its working. I have no idea how but its working.
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post #7 of 29 (permalink) Old 11-08-2016, 05:03 PM
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Okay, let us know when the problem comes back.
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post #8 of 29 (permalink) Old 11-13-2016, 03:56 PM Thread Starter
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Well when I hooked everything back up everything worked great but there was a sound coming from the fan. The higher the speed the louder the sound, so I decided to drop the fan to see if something got in there when I had it out. I dropped it and didn't see anything so I hooked it back up and still heard it so I dropped it again and now its not working again. I think I may have a wire somewhere that maybe burnt or cut or something that isn't making a good solid connection. Not sure what to do now.
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post #9 of 29 (permalink) Old 11-13-2016, 07:17 PM
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There is a connector behind the right kick panel that has wires for both the positive and the ground for the HVAC control. Some guys have reported finding burnt terminals in that connector.

This is what the connector looks like:

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post #10 of 29 (permalink) Old 11-15-2016, 10:11 AM Thread Starter
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Ill take a look at that connector. Thank you, Ill get back with you on what I find.
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post #11 of 29 (permalink) Old 11-17-2016, 11:05 AM Thread Starter
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It is that connector one of the pins is burnt! DO you happen to know what that connector is called or the part number?
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post #12 of 29 (permalink) Old 11-17-2016, 01:27 PM
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Well, the connector ID is C201. There are two ways to approach a repair for this. The first, easiest, and what most guys elect to do, is to cut the affected wires on each side of the connector and splice a wire around the connector. You would have to insure there was enough slack to allow the connector to be disconnected if necessary.

If you are going to do a full replacement, you will have to determine if the plastic body of either the male or female connector half is damaged, requiring change. If only the terminal(s) are burned, you can replace just those.

The plastic connector bodies are hard to source. This site seems to have each:

Search Results | Terminals & Connectors
Search Results | Terminals & Connectors

If just the terminals are burned, post a clear picture of the connector where the terminals are. There are different terminals for different circuits. I should be able to determine the appropriate part numbers from a picture.
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post #13 of 29 (permalink) Old 11-17-2016, 05:42 PM Thread Starter
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Here are the pictures
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_8421.jpg (90.6 KB, 13 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_8420.jpg (91.3 KB, 10 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_8419.jpg (90.2 KB, 10 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_8418.jpg (79.8 KB, 9 views)
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post #14 of 29 (permalink) Old 11-17-2016, 07:15 PM
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Okay, you can source the terminals from the same site that I linked to above. These are the female and male terminals that you will need to replace the burned ones:

Search Results | Terminals & Connectors
Search Results | Terminals & Connectors

Now, if you are going to have someone do the job you can procure the necessary parts for the replacement, or choose the easy option from my previous post.

If you are going to tackle this yourself, you probably should invest in the terminal removal tool as it will make the job a whole lot easier, especially if you are going to remove the 38 terminals in order to replace the plastic connector bodies. One tip, if you are doing the job, once you have the burned terminal out of the connector, cut the wire as close as you can to the terminal. There usually isn't any spare wire length in the harness. If you cut it close you will only lose about 1/4" of wire.

https://www.amazon.com/Rennsteig-Sup.../dp/B00A8GXHLA

There most likely are less expensive removal tools available but I don't have a source.
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post #15 of 29 (permalink) Old 11-17-2016, 07:28 PM Thread Starter
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Ok just so I understand my options are to either cut the entire connector off and just put a new connector in or remove the burnt terminals and replace them with new ones?
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post #16 of 29 (permalink) Old 11-17-2016, 07:36 PM
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Or, you can simply cut the wire at both ends of the connector, leaving the old pins alone and slicing the 2 wires together. You would possibly want to use butt connectors so that you can easily disconnect the 2 wires in the event you see future issues down the road.

Depends on how professional you want the job to be and how much time and $$$ you want to invest in your truck.

2005 5 cyl, Black on Black, 4 door
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post #17 of 29 (permalink) Old 11-17-2016, 08:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Talon92D View Post
Ok just so I understand my options are to either cut the entire connector off and just put a new connector in or remove the burnt terminals and replace them with new ones?
No, cutting off the entire connector is not an option! If you need to replace the plastic connector bodies, you will have to unpin all of the terminals, keeping track of where each one goes, and insert the terminals in the new plastic body. Of course you will have to replace the burned terminals. If there isn't much damage to the plastics, you can just unpin the terminals that are burned, replace with new terminals, and reinsert them in the original connector body.

The other option was mentioned twice, and also by Toughsox. That was to splice a wire around the outside of the connector, eliminating the burned terminals inside the connector.

The only cutting that will have to be done is if you run a splice wire around the connector or replace the burned terminals.

Let us know which way you decide to go and we can provide more detailed assistance.

Option 1. Cut the wires that have the burned terminals, connect a splice wire between the loose ends of those wires.

Option 2. Replace the burned components. That will require, at a minimum, unpinning the burned terminals, replacing those and reinstalling them in the connector. If the plastic connector bodies have excess damage, that will require removing all of the wires from the burned connector and installing them in a new connector.
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post #18 of 29 (permalink) Old 11-18-2016, 08:56 PM Thread Starter
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I'm going to just cut the wires off at the connector and splice in a new piece of wire.
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post #19 of 29 (permalink) Old 11-18-2016, 09:18 PM
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That will work. The wire is 14 gauge (2 mm). In case you are not aware, that wire is the power side of the circuit, in other words it should have 12 volts with the key on. The two black wires, in the connector, are the circuit grounds, one for the HVAC Control Module and one for the blower switch.
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post #20 of 29 (permalink) Old 11-20-2016, 07:32 PM Thread Starter
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Ok well I spliced the two wires together (twisted then soldered them at either end) and now everything that didn't work when the connector was not plugged in (brights, check engine light, passenger speaker) is not working. I spliced the wires and put the connector together and nothing. Maybe a fuse blew?
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