Gas tank over flow at pumps - Page 2 - Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon
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post #21 of 60 (permalink) Old 03-10-2016, 04:05 PM
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It look like yours is a crewcab? I know the filler location is different on the crew, so maybe the tank neck is different, maybe try looking between the box and frame, etc to see if there might be a sign of damage to the filler neck, but I'd assume and damage would create a flow problem and the problem wold be backing up before filling, but not really sure, can be some weird thing that could cause this.

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post #22 of 60 (permalink) Old 03-10-2016, 04:16 PM
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I wouldn't order anything until you are sure it's what it needs. If you do the valve seperately (not the GM way but way cheaper than the "correct" part), you need to transfer the tube to the valve, I assume the link above covers that. The last time I did it the were saying I need the adapter, it is possible to find one that still has the original type of electrical connection so you don't need that adapter. I don't know if I still have the number for that part or not. It is possible I found the original "non-correct" valve-only part on eBay brand new. I have replaced the valve 3 times, the truck still has the original hose on the valve, have swapped it over 3 times now. Again the trick is to NOT top off the tank, let the pump click off, then hang up the pump handle, do not add one penny more.
Years ago, when the How-To was published on the Nation, the recommended Valve was part number 214-2147. The connector on the valve was oval and matched the existing 355 harness. GM discontinued the 214-2147 valve and replaced it with 214-2324. Now, if you order a 214-2147, you will automatically be given a 214-2324. The 214-2324 Valve has a square shaped connector and requires a jumper harness to mate it to the 355 harness. There is an optional Valve available, part number 214-2149, that still has the oval shaped connector and will be plug and play.

Newer 355s, starting with either the 2010 or 2011 model, came from the factory with Valves having the square shaped connector
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post #23 of 60 (permalink) Old 03-10-2016, 09:01 PM
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Wow, what an incredibly helpful response Mr. Fancy Pants.
I bet this site just blows your mind, people rolling up their sleeves and doing the work themselves. I'd be eating Ramen every night if I took that advice.
From your response Mr. Smart Mouth, it would appear your truck is no longer under full warranty, therefore not a 2nd gen. Colorado. So, you have posted in the wrong forum. It is assumed posts here are 2015 and newer trucks, hence my question. If you had stated the year of your truck, I would not have asked.
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post #24 of 60 (permalink) Old 03-10-2016, 09:11 PM Thread Starter
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Oh shoot, I just picked one and hoped for the best. I have been putting my year on my thread starters but see I didn't get that added to this post for some reason. I see how your response would have made sense if you thought I was talking about a warranty vehicle. I'll make my way over to the 'beaters' area.
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post #25 of 60 (permalink) Old 03-10-2016, 09:18 PM
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This post was moved into the 1st gen area this morning, or maybe I did it yesterday.

Either way, hope you have some good advice to get this problem fixed.
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post #26 of 60 (permalink) Old 03-10-2016, 09:21 PM Thread Starter
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This post was moved into the 1st gen area this morning, or maybe I did it yesterday.

Either way, hope you have some good advice to get this problem fixed.
Thanks!
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post #27 of 60 (permalink) Old 03-10-2016, 09:30 PM
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Years ago, when the How-To was published on the Nation, the recommended Valve was part number 214-2147. The connector on the valve was oval and matched the existing 355 harness. GM discontinued the 214-2147 valve and replaced it with 214-2324. Now, if you order a 214-2147, you will automatically be given a 214-2324. The 214-2324 Valve has a square shaped connector and requires a jumper harness to mate it to the 355 harness. There is an optional Valve available, part number 214-2149, that still has the oval shaped connector and will be plug and play.

Newer 355s, starting with either the 2010 or 2011 model, came from the factory with Valves having the square shaped connector
You're quoting non-GM aftermarket numbers.
The Hummer valve is without the hose. If you buy the correct GM part it has the hose on it for the truck, which is nice but costs 5-10X more than the valve without the hose. I'm sure you know you can then transfer the valve on to the hose (or hose on to the valve).
If you go back to when this first presented itself as a problem, you had to be creative and someone found the Hummer valve to be the same but on the hummer you reused the hose, must have clamped on somehow. Anyways, if you can dig up THAT part, like I did, found a NOS one on eBay, you also have the old connector so don't need the adapter. Sorry if I can't describe worth a hoot.

I guess I go to these lengths because I'd rather have the Delco part and not pay for an adapter. I paid around $15 for the GM part which I didn't need an adapter for.
If I have to do this again I'll probably look for the correct Colorado part so I can avoid transfering the hose again, getting pretty beat up on the valve end due to the transfering 3 times.
I hate to sound like I know it all but again I have had to do this THREE times to my truck.
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post #28 of 60 (permalink) Old 03-11-2016, 05:59 AM
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It appears that you are confused regarding part numbers. The part numbers that I posted are OEM ACDelco part numbers. You want GM part numbers? ACDelco 214-2147=GM 25932569, ACDelco 214-2149=GM 25932571, ACDelco 214-2324= GM 20941985. I don't normally recommend aftermarket parts by number. It is up to the reader to decide if he/she wants to go that route.

Again, the Hummer reference is not appropriate to the valves. Unless you can link to the information, other than forum threads, that any of these valves were installed on a Hummer. These valves are all GM OEM parts, installed on various GM vehicles. However, I have never found a source that showed any of them installed on a Hummer. It doesn't really matter, unless someone goes to a store and requests a "Hummer" valve.
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post #29 of 60 (permalink) Old 03-11-2016, 01:31 PM
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Maybe I shouldn't mention that my 04 Colorado does the same thing?? :/ By the way, I was directed to this thread via "1st Generation" too.

Last edited by Bob S.; 03-11-2016 at 01:34 PM.
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post #30 of 60 (permalink) Old 03-11-2016, 01:42 PM Thread Starter
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Maybe I shouldn't mention that my 04 Colorado does the same thing?? :/ By the way, I was directed to this thread via "1st Generation" too.
Maybe we'll get to the fix here soon. I'm going to get at it once I get my window fixed.
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post #31 of 60 (permalink) Old 03-11-2016, 03:15 PM
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How come a fuel spill is less important than a functional window?
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post #32 of 60 (permalink) Old 03-11-2016, 03:18 PM Thread Starter
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Window seems easier to work on right now. Pry have the window stuff figured out today, then start the gas thing this weekend. Need to pull a stuck CD out of the radio console and get my vent blower on 1, 2, and 3 to work again also.... Maybe I should just trade this thing in, ha.

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post #33 of 60 (permalink) Old 03-11-2016, 03:19 PM Thread Starter
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Pry should fix the broken arm rest too, that should be quick and easy tho.
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post #34 of 60 (permalink) Old 03-11-2016, 04:00 PM
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It appears that you are confused regarding part numbers. The part numbers that I posted are OEM ACDelco part numbers. You want GM part numbers? ACDelco 214-2147=GM 25932569, ACDelco 214-2149=GM 25932571, ACDelco 214-2324= GM 20941985. I don't normally recommend aftermarket parts by number. It is up to the reader to decide if he/she wants to go that route.

Again, the Hummer reference is not appropriate to the valves. Unless you can link to the information, other than forum threads, that any of these valves were installed on a Hummer. These valves are all GM OEM parts, installed on various GM vehicles. However, I have never found a source that showed any of them installed on a Hummer. It doesn't really matter, unless someone goes to a store and requests a "Hummer" valve.
Not sure who you are saying is confused. I'm not making this up. I have a link to another thread you can read. The one used in the Hummer (it is H2 evidently not H3, sorry), is the valve only and the difference is it is way cheaper because it doesn't include the molded plastic hose, but you do have to swap the hose to the new valve. Maybe (probably)this is how the aftermarket valves need to be done as well, but I prefer the GM Delco part also.
If you don't go through the effort to get this part, if you just order the correct Colorado valve, you get the hose and costs a LOT more, so I only did this to save money. I am sure I read about it on this site somewhere, I would have to dig some more.
Here is one link I found:
PO455 code

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post #35 of 60 (permalink) Old 03-11-2016, 09:56 PM Thread Starter
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Got my window fixed!

Watched the video of the gas solenoid replacement. Why will replacing that solenoid fix my gas overflow issue? He only mentions the code as the reason he is replacing it. I had my battery unhooked for a while as I cleaned my throttle body the other day. I had no lights but the check engine light came on today on my way home from work. I need to go get it read next time I get to town and see if it's the same code that guy had.

I'm just curious why you think this may be the fix for the gas so I understand what is happening.
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post #36 of 60 (permalink) Old 03-11-2016, 11:22 PM
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The Evaporative Emission Control System is designed to capture vapors from the fuel tank, preventing additional pollutants from entering the environment. When the gas cap is on, it is basically a "closed" system, with only the Vent Valve open. The plumbing for the fuel tank includes piping that routes the vapors to a canister that is full of charcoal. The pollutants are trapped in the charcoal and the vapors are then vented overboard, through the Canister Vent Solenoid Valve.

When you are refueling, the gas going into the tank is forcing vapors out of the tank and into the canister and out through the Vent Solenoid Valve. If the valve is stuck closed, the vapor will just pressurize as the tank fills up.

If the valve is spring loaded to the open position, the PCM may not detect that it is stuck closed as long as the solenoid is operating when tested.

The first link, with the Video, was to give you an understanding of remove and replace.

More info here: fill up problem - Chevrolet Colorado & GMC Canyon Forum

Last edited by cart7881; 03-11-2016 at 11:24 PM.
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post #37 of 60 (permalink) Old 03-11-2016, 11:24 PM Thread Starter
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Oh I get it. Seems to be some pressure issue so that makes sense the vapors just aren't able to escape properly. Sounds like I should just get that solenoid on order.
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post #38 of 60 (permalink) Old 03-11-2016, 11:47 PM
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Well, go back to Post #4. Look at the video and disconnect the tube that goes to the Vent Valve. Easiest end would be where it attaches to the canister. Try refueling and see if the problem still exists. There are other ways that the vent can get blocked. The Valve is just the most frequent cause. If the problem goes away, that is a pretty good indication of a defective valve.

Disregard all the chatter about the valves. If you need one, refer back to Post#4.
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post #39 of 60 (permalink) Old 03-11-2016, 11:49 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, I will update when I try that.
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post #40 of 60 (permalink) Old 03-12-2016, 04:53 AM
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Out of curiosity, how low do you let the fuel level get before you refuel?

To me it doesn't seem like it's a vent problem, waiting to hear what you find.

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