Likely PASSLOCK issue - Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 33 (permalink) Old 07-14-2016, 07:37 AM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: MD, USA
Posts: 19
Likely PASSLOCK issue

Visiting my mom, her 2008 Chevy Colorado 4x4, I5, auto is having intermittent no crank, no start issues with the "security" light flashing. I believe this indicates a problem with the truck's Passlock system. This is the version that apparently has the security mechanism inside the ignition switch, not the little resistor in the key like the older PASSKEY/VATS systems.

I have bypassed the older VATS before by splicing in a resistor equivalent to the one on the key but that method does not appear to be viable for this PASSLOCK system. I did find some information about people claiming to bypass one version of PASSLOCK by measuring the resistance in the cylinder but those threads referred to wire bundles and colors (3-wire bundle from sensor with red/wh, black, and yellow, like I saw with the older VATS) that are not available in our truck, so I don't think the technique applies. I also saw some posts about cutting the blue/white wire but I am not willing to go that way.

So I am thinking that the only alternative is to replace the ignition switch and do a security relearn.

Anyway, since it took several days for the mod to get my account here activated I have made some progress. I removed the ignition switch last evening and will pick up a new one today at the local Chevy dealer and post back the results.

Last edited by raylo32; 07-14-2016 at 07:40 AM.
raylo32 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 33 (permalink) Old 07-14-2016, 07:49 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Homestead, Florida
Posts: 4,867
to C'Fans.

Replacing the switch often corrects the problem. It appears that you have found the necessary information to accomplish a "relearn". Keep us posted.
cart7881 is offline  
post #3 of 33 (permalink) Old 07-14-2016, 08:31 AM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: MD, USA
Posts: 19
Thanks! I am a chevy guy myself, but these **** GM PASSwhatever systems are a mess and should all be recalled and/or fixed by GM for free... or they should have a simple way for owners to bypass them when they fail, because fail they will. I assume all the newer vehicles have transponder technology that should be a lot more reliable.


Quote:
Originally Posted by cart7881 View Post
to C'Fans.

Replacing the switch often corrects the problem. It appears that you have found the necessary information to accomplish a "relearn". Keep us posted.
raylo32 is offline  
 
post #4 of 33 (permalink) Old 07-14-2016, 10:58 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Homestead, Florida
Posts: 4,867
I agree that the GM Passlock systems, in all of their variations, have been plagued with problems. However, I don't think enough effort has been expended in trying to find the source of the problem in each of the systems. Most of my research indicates that far more effort is applied in finding methods of bypassing the system, not fixing it.

The Passlock in the 1st Generation Colorados/Canyons is not that complicated. It relies on a specific signal from the ignition switch. The signal voltage is quite small and it doesn't take much resistance from a bad connection to disrupt the correct signal voltage. Frequently the problem is in the ignition switch, but it could also be nothing more than a bit of corrosion on the switch connector. Obviously other factors could contribute to the issue, but those would be less likely.
cart7881 is offline  
post #5 of 33 (permalink) Old 07-14-2016, 08:06 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: MD, USA
Posts: 19
Well, success, mostly. I got the install done and did the re-learn and truck is starting fine. But there is something not quite right with the tranny lock. With the key off I can move the shifter from park to any gear, IOW the lock is disengaged. But with the engine running the shifter is properly locked in park until I press the brake, then once depressed allows shifting. With key off again shifter moves anywhere.

I am guessing this has to do with the position of the lock cylinder when I inserted the shifter lock cable connector. I think I inserted it with the key off, so maybe I need to go back in there, pull the connector, then put the key in run and reinsert lock cable connector. Does this sound right? Have to be careful in the interim.
raylo32 is offline  
post #6 of 33 (permalink) Old 07-14-2016, 09:43 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Homestead, Florida
Posts: 4,867
Not sure on that configuration. Most everyone just replaces the switch. One connector, two screws.
cart7881 is offline  
post #7 of 33 (permalink) Old 07-15-2016, 08:40 AM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: MD, USA
Posts: 19
I am thinking the dealer sold me the wrong part. I got part 1579-5322 which a google search says does fit Colorado but I also found another AC Delco part match - part number D1462G GM Original Equipment Ignition Lock Housing, that looks identical and lists the same attributes but adds one more: "shaft lock".

Bottom line the new switch works fine but it's like a car from the 1960s before there were steering column and trans locks. I can turn the steering wheel and shift the trans without even having the key in the ignition. There is no mechanical steering column and trans lock. Now the trans does lock in park with the motor running until I press the brake. That is the function of the little cable from the switch so that is working fine. I just don't have the hard mechanical lock when shut down.

This is strange, tho. I wouldn't think it would be legal to have a vehicle w/o a steering column and trans lock. Haven't seen that for decades. So why would GM even sell a switch housing that didn't provide that?

Last edited by raylo32; 07-15-2016 at 09:15 AM.
raylo32 is offline  
post #8 of 33 (permalink) Old 07-15-2016, 10:50 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Homestead, Florida
Posts: 4,867
These trucks don't have a steering wheel lock, however, the shift lever should lock in Park with the ignition off. I haven't replaced or seen a How-To for replacing the entire housing, but the Service Manual does not mention any mechanical attachments to accomplish during the replacement. As I mentioned, most guys just remove the new switch from the housing and install it in the original housing without disturbing anything else.

If you have the old unit, maybe there is a clue to tell if there is a difference in configuration.

My research is confusing. It looks like 15795322 is ACDelco D1403G and D1462G is GM 15795321.

If you check the part numbers at the ACDelco website, it indicates that D1462G would apply to manual transmission equipped trucks. ACDelco Parts
Look under "Electrical"--"Starter Sol, Switch & Relay".

At this other website, it shows that D1403G, 15795322, applies to the manual transmission. STEERING COLUMN

Last edited by cart7881; 07-15-2016 at 10:53 AM.
cart7881 is offline  
post #9 of 33 (permalink) Old 07-15-2016, 10:54 AM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: MD, USA
Posts: 19
Here is the Rock Auto listing. D1403G and D1426G look identical and both apply for 4L60, only difference is "shaft lock". Our truck doesn't have the security system so that other listed part cleary doesn't apply.

2008 CHEVROLET COLORADO 3.7L L5 Ignition Lock Housing | RockAuto
raylo32 is offline  
post #10 of 33 (permalink) Old 07-15-2016, 11:19 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Homestead, Florida
Posts: 4,867
LOL, well that adds to the confusion. Yeah "BAE" is the PassKey Security. Newer Colorados in Canada have PassKey.

Is the new housing, that you installed, identical to the one removed?
cart7881 is offline  
post #11 of 33 (permalink) Old 07-15-2016, 11:46 AM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: MD, USA
Posts: 19
It sure looked identical, but maybe some difference in the internal cams? I can't tell for sure from the original but there is a little window on top and maybe the "shaft lock" has a cam that engages something on the bottom of the steering column to lock the shifter when key is off? I didn't really look at that whilst apart. I just thought it was going to work. BTW, the new one had the same little window but not sure if it is the same internally. The P/N I got clearly shows as not having shaft lock. And there is no P/N stamped on the original.

Yes, I saw in the owner's manual that Canada got PASSKEY that year but I didn't know that BAE supplied it. Hopefully that is more reliable than PASSLOCK.

One semi smart thing I did during this install was to not break off the TORX head of the security bolt, so doing another R&R if I have to will be a lot easier.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cart7881 View Post
LOL, well that adds to the confusion. Yeah "BAE" is the PassKey Security. Newer Colorados in Canada have PassKey.

Is the new housing, that you installed, identical to the one removed?

Last edited by raylo32; 07-15-2016 at 11:50 AM.
raylo32 is offline  
post #12 of 33 (permalink) Old 07-15-2016, 12:23 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Homestead, Florida
Posts: 4,867
Well keep us updated. It will help others with this problem.

"BAE" is a GM RPO code.

If you need info from the Service Manual, let me know. I'll be back online in about 4 hours.

Last edited by cart7881; 07-15-2016 at 12:27 PM.
cart7881 is offline  
post #13 of 33 (permalink) Old 07-15-2016, 12:27 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: MD, USA
Posts: 19
That makes sense.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cart7881 View Post
Well keep us updated. It will help others with this problem.

"BAE" is a GM RPO code.
raylo32 is offline  
post #14 of 33 (permalink) Old 07-15-2016, 01:43 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: MD, USA
Posts: 19
Here's a short video of the issue:

https://youtu.be/AD-PCYoZt_c

Last edited by raylo32; 07-15-2016 at 01:47 PM.
raylo32 is offline  
post #15 of 33 (permalink) Old 07-15-2016, 04:44 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Homestead, Florida
Posts: 4,867
I think the locking of the shift lever with the ignition on and with the key off are two separate functions. The Linear Shift Assembly is the component that has a cable going to the ignition lock housing. With the shift lever in Drive, see if the ignition key will turn to the lock position. It shouldn't.

The Service Manual says that the ignition lock cylinder must be in the OFF-LOCK position when removing the park lock cable from the ignition lock housing.

Last edited by cart7881; 07-15-2016 at 04:50 PM.
cart7881 is offline  
post #16 of 33 (permalink) Old 07-16-2016, 09:05 AM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: MD, USA
Posts: 19
Yes, agree they 2 locking functions are separate, but I don't see how the mechanical lock when off works. The engine-on lock with the little cable is working properly. I did have the cylinder in the off position when I snapped the connector in and you can see the cable pull with key operation: it pulls up with key in on/start and releases with key off and the shifter locks and unlocks properly with the parking brake. But the hard lock with no key is inop as in the video.

I won't be able to do any more on this for awhile since I am back home. I am going to have a chat with my local Chevy dealer and hopefully find a more knowlegeable parts guy. If I need the part with shaft lock not that big a deal. I can get the part and replace my next visit and now that I know how to release those stupid air bag retainer clips and with the security bolt head left intact, the job is almost trivial. But for now at least the truck seems to be starting reliably.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cart7881 View Post
I think the locking of the shift lever with the ignition on and with the key off are two separate functions. The Linear Shift Assembly is the component that has a cable going to the ignition lock housing. With the shift lever in Drive, see if the ignition key will turn to the lock position. It shouldn't.

The Service Manual says that the ignition lock cylinder must be in the OFF-LOCK position when removing the park lock cable from the ignition lock housing.
raylo32 is offline  
post #17 of 33 (permalink) Old 07-16-2016, 09:18 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Homestead, Florida
Posts: 4,867
You could always just install the new switch on the old housing and swap it out. That would determine whether or not the issue was with the housing or the locking mechanism. There are no PassLock components in the housing.

Last edited by cart7881; 07-16-2016 at 09:26 AM.
cart7881 is offline  
post #18 of 33 (permalink) Old 07-16-2016, 10:05 AM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: MD, USA
Posts: 19
Yes, I thought about swapping the electrical connector/PASSLOCK sensor over to the old housing. I wondered why GM doesn't sell that part separately except I suppose they just want to sell the entire asembly to make more $$. The thing comes off easy enough. We'll see what my parts guys say first before I try that.

Also had a discussion on another forum where a guy sent me the schematic. It looks like you can splice a resistor in to permanently bypass PASSLOCK. From the schematic he sent it would go between the white/yellow and white/blue wires. You would cut the white/blue, then turn the key on and measure resistance from the key side of the white/blue to the intact but stripped white/yellow. Then splice the resistor between the computer side of the white/blue to the stipped point on the white/yellow. Really don't have to measure the resistance, could just use a different one and do the 30 minute learn. I could do this and reinstall the original ingition lock housing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cart7881 View Post
You could always just install the new switch on the old housing and swap it out. That would determine whether or not the issue was with the housing or the locking mechanism. There are no PassLock components in the housing.

Last edited by raylo32; 07-16-2016 at 10:31 AM.
raylo32 is offline  
post #19 of 33 (permalink) Old 07-16-2016, 11:15 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Homestead, Florida
Posts: 4,867
Yeah, it doesn't make sense to not sell the switch separately, except for the $$$. The Service Manual includes a procedure for replacing just the switch.

I haven't heard of that wiring modification. I though you posted that the PassLock issue was fixed?
cart7881 is offline  
post #20 of 33 (permalink) Old 07-16-2016, 11:38 AM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: MD, USA
Posts: 19
Yes, PASSLOCK issue seems to be fixed, no failed start attempts yet. But I could potentially put the entire old ignition switch back and bypass PASSLOCK with a resistor.... and hopefully fix the trans lock issue. Might do that instead of swapping the new PASSLOCK sensor to the old housing because there is no way to be sure which part of the original PASSLOCK failed. It is PROBABLY the switch/sensor part but I guess there's a chance that it is the little probe in the housing that activates the sensor when the cylinder is turned. The problem with this stupid system is there isn't a good way to diagnose exactly which part is bad hence my inclination to replace the entire assembly... or bypass with the original. Otherwise this could turn into a career.


Quote:
Originally Posted by cart7881 View Post
Yeah, it doesn't make sense to not sell the switch separately, except for the $$$. The Service Manual includes a procedure for replacing just the switch.

I haven't heard of that wiring modification. I though you posted that the PassLock issue was fixed?

Last edited by raylo32; 07-16-2016 at 12:10 PM.
raylo32 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome