Spark Plug change procedure or warnings - Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon
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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-02-2005, 01:51 AM Thread Starter
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Spark Plug change procedure or warnings

All,
I am pretty good at the simple maintenance on my vehicles, but have never changed plugs when the coil was part of the "assembly".

I am also pretty good at breaking things and too much of my skill has been derived from "well, I certainly can't do it THAT way again".

Anyone have experience or a doc'd procedure on how to change the plugs in our trucks?

Thank you.
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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-02-2005, 02:01 PM
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There's a few, but not many that have changed their plugs. I'm sure there are more people that have done this type of maintenance on other vehicles with similar set-ups. Most of us won't be touching the plugs for awhile since they're 100,000 mile plugs. All my money goes for gasoline.

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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-03-2005, 01:40 AM
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No kidding! I spent nearly 100 bucks filling up my truck and my wifes car yesterday! Holy Crap!
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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-04-2005, 07:20 PM Thread Starter
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Well, I hear you... and the price of gas is already making many 'discretionary spendings' stop... But I got the plugs cheap, I drive hard (after the engine oil is warmed) so I saw no harm in it. I'll keep looking - thx guys...
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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-05-2005, 12:31 AM
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It is very important the engine is cold when u remove the plugs.
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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-12-2005, 01:54 AM
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use some anti-sieze on the threads when re-installing
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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-12-2005, 02:03 AM
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So where the hell are the spark plugs on this motor? Been looking around the engine but I'd guess it was under the center cover. I don't mess with them though, except for the fuse box to check out the assignments.
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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-12-2005, 02:23 AM
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They're directly under the intake resonator <--- think tha'ts the correct term. Quite a pain in the yeah to get to. That's the point of chevy using 100K mile plugs I guess. If you look at the threads of pictures with people who have put on either a K&M or AEM intake. You'll see the coils, the plugs lie directly under them.
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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-12-2005, 01:16 PM
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Coils are the little silver squares with fins on the top, you can see the front two in that pic.


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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-13-2005, 02:13 PM
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I would suggest replacing your plugs before 100,000, maybe at like 25,000 miles. Many vehicles that have the plugs left in sieze or fuze making removal almost imposible.
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post #11 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-13-2005, 03:09 PM
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With our high energy ignitions, I really don't see replacing plugs before they really need it. But I think the seizing issue is a real possibility and I'll probably remove, check, and reinstall every 25K to help prevent this.

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post #12 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-13-2005, 05:16 PM
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Information - Iridium and Platinum Tip Spark Plug Maintenance - keywords 30K major minor preventative removal remove replacement tune up #PIP3069B - (May 9, 2005)
Information - Iridium and Platinum Tip Spark Plug Maintenance
1995-2006 All GM Passenger Cars and Trucks

with Iridium or Platinum Tipped Spark Plugs

The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in the PI.

Condition/Concern:
The information below was originally sent to all GM Dealers on October 14, 1999 as a DCS message. This information applies to all vehicles equipped with Iridium or Platinum Tipped Spark Plugs.

Recommendation/Instructions:
Iridium and Platinum tipped spark plugs are designed to operate under normal vehicle operating conditions for up to 100,000 miles (160,000 kilometers) without periodic maintenance.

When no engine performance concerns are present, Iridium and Platinum tipped spark plugs should not be removed for periodic inspection and cleaning of threads, doing so may compromise the spark plug's ability to withstand their corrosive environment. The threaded area, although not sealed, serves as a protective environment against most harmful elements. Removing and cleaning spark plugs will introduce metallic debris and brush scrapings into the thread area which may further the corrosion process.

Chromate coated spark plugs should not be wire brushed or handled in any way once they are put in service. Chromium topcoats form a protective oxide on spark plugs that is not effective if scratched. Both coated and uncoated spark plugs will have the best chance of surviving a corrosive environment if they are left in position. Attempts to maintain spark plugs by removing them and cleaning the threads can actually create the corrosive condition that the procedure was intended to prevent.

Please follow this diagnosis process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed.



GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.
WE SUPPORT VOLUNTARY TECHNICIAN CERTIFICATION


© Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved.
Spark Plug Replacement
Removal Procedure
Remove the ignition coils. Refer to Ignition Coil(s) Replacement .
Caution: Wear safety glasses when using compressed air, as flying dirt particles may cause eye injury.

Notice: Clean the spark plug recess area before removing the spark plug. Failure to do so could result in engine damage because of dirt or foreign material entering the cylinder head, or by the contamination of the cylinder head threads. The contaminated threads may prevent the proper seating of the new plug. Use a thread chaser to clean the threads of any contamination.





Clean the spark plug recesses with low pressure air.
Notice: Allow the engine to cool before removing the spark plugs. Attempting to remove the spark plugs from a hot engine may cause the plug threads to seize, causing damage to cylinder head threads.

Remove the spark plugs from the cylinder head.
Inspect the spark plugs. Refer to Spark Plug Inspection .
Installation Procedure
Notice: Use only the spark plugs specified for use in the vehicle. Do not install spark plugs that are either hotter or colder than those specified for the vehicle. Installing spark plugs of another type can severely damage the engine.

Notice: Check the gap of all new and reconditioned spark plugs before installation. The pre-set gaps may have changed during handling. Use a round feeler gage to ensure an accurate check. Installing the spark plugs with the wrong gap can cause poor engine performance and may even damage the engine.

Measure the spark plug gap on the spark plugs to be installed. Compare the measurement to the gap specifications. Refer to Ignition System Specifications , correct as necessary.
Notice: Refer to Component Fastener Tightening Notice in Cautions and Notices.

Notice: Be sure that the spark plug threads smoothly into the cylinder head and the spark plug is fully seated. Use a thread chaser, if necessary, to clean threads in the cylinder head. Cross-threading or failing to fully seat the spark plug can cause overheating of the plug, exhaust blow-by, or thread damage.





Install the spark plugs to the cylinder head.

Tighten
Tighten the spark plugs to 18 N·m (13 lb ft).

Install the ignition coils. Refer to Ignition Coil(s) Replacement .
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post #13 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-13-2005, 06:36 PM
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My cavalier had the same type of plugs. I waited till 90K and the outside tips were white and inside tips looked fried. I think I will change mine around 70-75K just to be safe. They are so cheap anyway, why wait?

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post #14 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-13-2005, 10:08 PM
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good information. So if I read this right, seizing is more likely by working on a hot engine than leaving the plugs in place for life.

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post #15 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-14-2005, 07:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ptkid2
good information. So if I read this right, seizing is more likely by working on a hot engine than leaving the plugs in place for life.
Huh? The reason you dont wanna remove plugs from our hot engine is because our cylinder head is made from aluminum and when warm it can strip easily damaging spark plug threads in the head. You see metal expands with higher temps (duh) so you wanna wait until the engine is cold to remove/install spark plugs. Also, aluminum is very succeptical (sp?) to rust so putting some anti-seize on the spark plug threads upon reinstalling the plugs is a good idea too.

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post #16 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-14-2005, 11:41 AM
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We're talking about the same thing. But aluminum doesn't rust. I think you mean corrode.

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post #17 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-15-2005, 01:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ptkid2
We're talking about the same thing. But aluminum doesn't rust. I think you mean corrode.
....right, you know what i mean :) Just so that the plug wont seize in the threads

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post #18 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-15-2017, 06:45 PM
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So if you were to do a compression check, don't you have to have the engine warmed up to do the check accurately?

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post #19 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-16-2017, 04:32 AM
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Yes. Initially loosen them COLD. Then re-tighten, warm up the engine, and remove again for compression checking. Finally, lightly anti-seize the threads (NOT NEAR THE TIP) and reinstall them to the correct torque. I believe that is 13 ft-lbs. Check for sure.

2005 White 2wd Z71 WT
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post #20 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-16-2017, 05:40 PM
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You Tube DarkHelmet. It looks fairly simple. I will probably change mine this summer.
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