Need some feedback - Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon
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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-05-2017, 01:12 PM Thread Starter
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Need some feedback

Was hesitant to post but I just want to make sure I'm not missing anything. I have a 2005 gmc canyon i5 4x4 crew cab with 170k on it I bought in Sept of this year for 4,200. I absolutely love the truck. I just took it to emerald isle N.C. from Ky about a 10hr drive and it made it with no problems. I did however notice 2 things. 1. Sometimes upon start up it has the erratic idle (previous owner said he did coil packs but not plugs) so I'm doing plugs and cleaning M.A.F. And the T.B. and the 2nd one I'm not sure about. I noticed upon medium to hard acceleration my battery light came on and my radar/gps would briefly restart. This happened more and more when I was going thru the jelico mountain range and going up hill. I had alt and batt checked at advanced and everything checked out ok. Am I alone in thinking maybe the brushe's in alt are going bad? If anyone has had this happen or has a fix for it let me know please. I am trying to fix what the idiot before me either didn't fix or was to lazy to fix bc I really enjoy this truck and want to be able to.keep it running for while. Thanks

heath
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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-05-2017, 03:58 PM
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One thing I always tell people who want to own an older vehicle and keep it running is. . .. . BUY a decent OBD II scanner. By decent I mean one like the Cen-tech 60794. It can be found for about $100 at many places online and look for a coupon code like at Harbor Freight. Link below.

Why buy one like this? It is very easy to use, can drive with it connected and things like battery voltage, etc can be seen on the fly. It will come handy more than you think. Yes.. . there are cheaper ones and better ones. I have several and this Cen-Tech is one I use most.

You can guess and by golly, or be informed. It will show any trouble codes and you can clear them and see if they come back to verify a potential problem.

You already saved money buying a used vehicle. But they will need fixing more often.. . . Spend $100on something that will save you even more money.

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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-05-2017, 04:25 PM
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I don't have a clue for sure, but is it possible that the alternator belt slips when you accelerate and thus the issue?

The "restart" would suggest that power is lost to at least a portion of the system.

Try this: Plug your phone into a charger in cigarette lighter. Let it turn the display off. My phone, if you initiate charge, it will light up the screen. If power is being lost to the cigarette lighter on hard acceleration, it may also lose all power to other places. That might help determine if all power is lost or just one particular system. Of course, I am assuming that the instrument panel did not go bonkers, the idiot lights did not go through a reset like they do when you start the truck, etc.

Will it react the same way if you are sitting in park & neutral and accelerate hard without moving?

My first instinct is a ground issue, but there are guys here with much better understanding of the 1st gen trucks.

I would second the idea of getting some type of scanner.
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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-05-2017, 04:26 PM
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A VERY UNLIKELY source of the battery light coming on under heavy acceleration (dont laugh, I have seen this happen) is a weak belt tensioner pulley. It will grab as normal under normal driving but punching the gas sometimes pulls the tensioner back a little, making the belt not engage fully.
I do say this is unlikely in your case as the alternator really doesnt have much drag on it so even a weak tensioner would have shown up sooner. But hey, its easy enough to check to see if your belt is tight while it is sitting there in the driveway.....and easy enough to spot if you have the truck running and while watching the belt, manually hit the accelerator and see if something just doesnt look right.

Just adding my 2 cents to what whats already been said.
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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-05-2017, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Toughsox View Post
A VERY UNLIKELY source of the battery light coming on under heavy acceleration (dont laugh, I have seen this happen) is a weak belt tensioner pulley. It will grab as normal under normal driving but punching the gas sometimes pulls the tensioner back a little, making the belt not engage fully.
I do say this is unlikely in your case as the alternator really doesnt have much drag on it so even a weak tensioner would have shown up sooner. But hey, its easy enough to check to see if your belt is tight while it is sitting there in the driveway.....and easy enough to spot if you have the truck running and while watching the belt, manually hit the accelerator and see if something just doesnt look right.

Just adding my 2 cents to what whats already been said.
The detailed explanation of my question about the alternator belt. While rare, this makes at least two of us that have seen it.
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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-05-2017, 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by CaryBosse View Post
The detailed explanation of my question about the alternator belt. While rare, this makes at least two of us that have seen it.
I was slow typing and your reply wasn't there when I started typing. Some of us old guys still type by the 'hunt and peck' system. LOL

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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-05-2017, 04:49 PM
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I was slow typing and your reply wasn't there when I started typing. Some of us old guys still type by the 'hunt and peck' system. LOL
I resemble that remark...sometimes I use two fingers on my left hand.
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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-05-2017, 07:44 PM Thread Starter
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Sorry I haven't responded bad storm came thru and lost power and cell was low batt. I will check the belt tensioner it does sound like a possible culprit. I'm also going to check alt and belt. I do have a good scanner and only code that keeps coming up is the o2 sensor which I'm not to worried about at this time. I used it to fix the p446 I believe it was for the evap solenoid and I used the walk through on here to use the hummer h3 which was a huge help and saving money. Thanks guys for all your information and help I love this site

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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-05-2017, 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Toughsox View Post
A VERY UNLIKELY source of the battery light coming on under heavy acceleration (dont laugh, I have seen this happen) is a weak belt tensioner pulley. It will grab as normal under normal driving but punching the gas sometimes pulls the tensioner back a little, making the belt not engage fully.
I do say this is unlikely in your case as the alternator really doesnt have much drag on it so even a weak tensioner would have shown up sooner. But hey, its easy enough to check to see if your belt is tight while it is sitting there in the driveway.....and easy enough to spot if you have the truck running and while watching the belt, manually hit the accelerator and see if something just doesnt look right.

Just adding my 2 cents to what whats already been said.

Sounds possible yes but nothing to do with the intermittent loss of 12v to the acc. Seems to me its likely the two are related. I'll guess a bad ground or power somewhere...good luck with that one right? Time to do a wiggle test I think. (that is when you wiggle wires looking for it to screw up, thus narrowing down the problem) Oh and FWIW the other day I had O'reilly's check an alt for me that I was 99% certain was bad. They said it tested good. I replaced it anyway and it cured the battery light coming on problem. So there's that..............
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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-05-2017, 08:42 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by JScottM View Post
Sounds possible yes but nothing to do with the intermittent loss of 12v to the acc. Seems to me its likely the two are related. I'll guess a bad ground or power somewhere...good luck with that one right? Time to do a wiggle test I think. (that is when you wiggle wires looking for it to screw up, thus narrowing down the problem) Oh and FWIW the other day I had O'reilly's check an alt for me that I was 99% certain was bad. They said it tested good. I replaced it anyway and it cured the battery light coming on problem. So there's that..............
I might just have to do that brother I'm going to start with the wiggle test first and go from there thank you so much


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post #11 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-07-2017, 09:07 PM Thread Starter
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Just an update. When you buy a truck and the guy tells you he just changed the spark plugs, coil packs..please check and make sure. For some reason previous owner did change the coil packs but I'm pretty sure the spark plugs are original. And we'll you can see throttle body for self...I'm smh

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post #12 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-07-2017, 09:26 PM
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Eh, you coulda gotten another 25K outta them thar sparkies.
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post #13 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-07-2017, 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by HeathBar1 View Post
Just an update. When you buy a truck and the guy tells you he just changed the spark plugs, coil packs..please check and make sure. For some reason previous owner did change the coil packs but I'm pretty sure the spark plugs are original. And we'll you can see throttle body for self...I'm smh

heath
YIKES. One question. Why in the world would you change coils and not plugs? Shoot those plugs gaps are so large it probably cooked the last coils. LOL

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post #14 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-07-2017, 09:34 PM Thread Starter
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Right....I am starting to gather that the former owner was a few french frys short of a happy meal I am glad I have the truck I love it but I'm starting to wonder what problems will come from his failure to do things the correct way

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post #15 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-07-2017, 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by CaryBosse View Post
The detailed explanation of my question about the alternator belt. While rare, this makes at least two of us that have seen it.
hot dog, that would have to be one loose belt right?

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post #16 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-07-2017, 09:37 PM Thread Starter
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And I changed the plugs with denso irridiums bc if everything I've read on here about how good they are. So far so good

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post #17 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-07-2017, 09:41 PM
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The I5 was a decent motor. Im sure with the age of yours, all the silly crap was already taken care of....if not by the last owner than hopefully the one before him.
But, if this guy changed the coils and not the plugs, Id bet my last dollar he never changed the fuel filter, which can cause a half hour of grief. Might want to check/change that for the hell of it to avoid any problems in that aspect down the road.
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post #18 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-07-2017, 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by HeathBar1 View Post
Sorry I haven't responded bad storm came thru and lost power and cell was low batt. I will check the belt tensioner it does sound like a possible culprit. I'm also going to check alt and belt. I do have a good scanner and only code that keeps coming up is the o2 sensor which I'm not to worried about at this time. I used it to fix the p446 I believe it was for the evap solenoid and I used the walk through on here to use the hummer h3 which was a huge help and saving money. Thanks guys for all your information and help I love this site

heath

Yes. . . but can you set your scanner to monitor voltage as you drive? That way you could tell what the voltage is dropping to when it happens.

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post #19 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-07-2017, 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Toughsox View Post
The I5 was a decent motor. Im sure with the age of yours, all the silly crap was already taken care of....if not by the last owner than hopefully the one before him.
But, if this guy changed the coils and not the plugs, Id bet my last dollar he never changed the fuel filter, which can cause a half hour of grief. Might want to check/change that for the hell of it to avoid any problems in that aspect down the road.

Good point. .. and the 2005 had that extra fuel filter that later was deleted. I believe it is located on the inner frame right about below the passenger side? Easy to replace and often forgotten.
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post #20 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-07-2017, 11:42 PM Thread Starter
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I will go get a new fuel filter and change it tom and see where that gets me..I'm also going to replace the belt. One thing I found odd was the rubber hose under the intake manifold connected to top of engine beside the last coil pack was very very dry rotted an local part stores had to order it so I had some spare 1/2 in heater hose from working on my project jeep and replaced it so I'm trying to just do the simple things I know of before it leads to something bigger down rd. I'm currently in electrical school so I need it to last me atleast 3 more years driving 80 miles round trip 3x a week. Again thank you for your all help and time. I do not have a scanner that will give me voltage feedback I'll see if I can't find a budget one on amazon good idea granite blue

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