Guide to 2" lift - Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon
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post #1 of 227 (permalink) Old 11-15-2006, 11:21 PM Thread Starter
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Guide to 2" lift

There have been a plethora of threads recently about how to do a 2" lift, install shackels, shocks, etc. (yes, my own included). As a service to future searchers, I thought that I would compile all of the information that I have found on the subject. Maybe we can make this a sticky to deter some more duplicate threads?

Summary: The basic 2" lift is done with a torsion bar adjustment on the front, and either lift shackles or an add-a-leaf on the back.

Torsion bar adjustment: The torsion bar adjustment is done by turning the torsion bar adjustment bolts. For most people a 2" lift would be about 7-8 turns. It will be much easier to turn the bolts if you jack your truck up by the frame to take the weight off of the suspension. Measure each side of the truck to make sure they are the same height after the adjustment. You will need to have your alignment checked after adjusting the torsion bars. Here are pictures of the bolt from the following thread http://www.coloradofans.com/viewtopic.php?t=893







Shackles: The leaf springs are attached at the back with a shackle. This shackle attaches the spring to the truck frame and allows the spring to flex. A lift shackle is about 4" longer than the stock shackle, giving you 2" of lift at the axle. To replace your shackles, lift your truck by the frame to take the weight off of the springs. Then unbolt the stock shackles and remove them. To install the new shackles, adjust the height of the truck to line up the holes and bolt the new ones in.

Aftermarket lift shackles are available from AIM Industries (http://www.truckn-store.com/product....t.asp&ID=98017) for $99. The picture on their website is a generic picture. The actual shackle from them looks like this:

The other company offering shackles is Synergy Offroad. Their website is http://www.synergyoffroad.com/gmt355shackles.html. Their shackles are $55. I haven't seen any pictures of their shackles on a Colorado yet, but they look high quality.


Shocks: When you lift your truck, you are at risk for overextending your stock shocks and blowing them out. The right thing to do is replace your shocks. The correct Rancho shocks are 5300 (or equivalent) for the front and 5190 (or equivalent) for the rear. The shocks should be a simple bolt-in installation.

If I have left anything out or got something wrong, please let me know. Hope this helps some people out.

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post #2 of 227 (permalink) Old 11-16-2006, 12:28 AM
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Nice writeup and pics.

A couple of things I would add to the torsion bar adjustment:

Fill up the gas tank to full before doing the torsion bar work (recommended by GM in adjusting the Z-trim height).

Do all the torsion bar work on a level surface.

Measure the height between a point on the body to ground before jacking the truck up or adjusting the TBs. Record that number for later reference. Use this same reference point for all measurements of adjusted front height.

Observe the Constant Velocity joint angle in stock trim, for later reference. Take pictures if available.

Before adjusting the torsion bars, mark a reference line to the frame and on the socket, so you know what a true full turn is. (I see in the pics you did this).

After you are done adjusting the torsion bars to desired height, push down on the front bumper a couple of times to settle the torsion bars into their new height and re-measure both sides.

After all is said and done, compare the Constant Velocity angles to stock angle. Too much angle is going to tear up the CV boots prematurely.
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post #3 of 227 (permalink) Old 11-16-2006, 02:11 AM
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hey is cranking the torsion good for your truck, because i had them cranked and my left CV boot kept on ripping, it happened twice and i just had the dealership put them back stock ... any suggestions... by the way... i had them completely cranked the last time around with no shackles... input please.
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post #4 of 227 (permalink) Old 11-16-2006, 03:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YFZ450CANYONMAN
hey is cranking the torsion good for your truck, because i had them cranked and my left CV boot kept on ripping, it happened twice and i just had the dealership put them back stock ... any suggestions... by the way... i had them completely cranked the last time around with no shackles... input please.
Dont crank them so much... The CV boots are not made to ride at a 90 deg angle all day long.

This is a 2" lift for the rear of the truck and a 1-2" lift for the front... If anyone needs more than that lift, Slyjacker & Rancho kits are preferred for longevity of the front end components. Those kits will maintain the OEM driveline with drop brackets.
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post #5 of 227 (permalink) Old 11-16-2006, 03:20 AM
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Don't crank them all the way..

EDIT: I quick but guy above me quicker...

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post #6 of 227 (permalink) Old 11-16-2006, 11:09 AM
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Good post. This should be added to the TBar cranking sticky.

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post #7 of 227 (permalink) Old 11-16-2006, 11:36 AM
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So are either of those shackles better are they both built pretty much the same.

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post #8 of 227 (permalink) Old 11-16-2006, 01:13 PM
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haha, i cant wait to get mine shackles in and get yall pictures. you cant see anything of my undercarriage. youll see......

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post #9 of 227 (permalink) Old 11-16-2006, 05:25 PM
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well...dang Im doing this over christmas break I was hopin 2 get a heads up but I have 2wd oh well lv got some help guys who have done a few so I should be alright
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post #10 of 227 (permalink) Old 11-17-2006, 09:54 AM
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for you 2wd use the coil spacers for the front

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post #11 of 227 (permalink) Old 11-17-2006, 12:36 PM
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Re: Guide to 2" lift

Quote:
Originally Posted by smsag04
Shocks: When you lift your truck, you are at risk for overextending your stock shocks and blowing them out. The right thing to do is replace your shocks. The correct Rancho shocks are 5300 (or equivalent) for the front and 5190 (or equivalent) for the rear. The shocks should be a simple bolt-in installation.
Good write up...

I may be wrong (been wrong before...) but I think the amount of wheel travel is not changed if you adjust the torsion bars so the stock front shocks will not be over-extended. I think that you are simply making your springs more stiff without increasing wheel travel.

However, adding shackles to the rear will over-extend the shocks so new rear shocks are a good idea.

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post #12 of 227 (permalink) Old 11-17-2006, 03:51 PM
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All that adjusting the TBs does is raise the resting position. You are not increasing travel.

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post #13 of 227 (permalink) Old 11-17-2006, 06:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeSuS
for you 2wd use the coil spacers for the front
accually I have 2 inch springs I bought from huntman like I said I already have the stuff I just need 2 put it on
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post #14 of 227 (permalink) Old 11-18-2006, 03:33 AM
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oh sorry

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post #15 of 227 (permalink) Old 11-19-2006, 08:13 AM
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When adding oversized/heavier tires, I recommend upgrading the front shocks as well. They are not "necessary" for suspension travel purposes, but they help out for ride comfort. Rancho # RS5300 (Colorado/Canyon # Listing)

Replacing the rear shocks is necessary if you install the shackles as previously stated. To accomodate the increased suspension travel the shackles provide. Rancho # RS5190 (S10 # Listing)
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post #16 of 227 (permalink) Old 11-20-2006, 08:52 PM
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where can i pick up rancho shocks? do i have to get them online or at 4 wheel parts?
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post #17 of 227 (permalink) Old 11-22-2006, 12:44 AM
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anyone?
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post #18 of 227 (permalink) Old 11-22-2006, 01:01 AM
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I did a search on google and found the place with the best price...
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post #19 of 227 (permalink) Old 11-22-2006, 01:52 AM
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lol well do you have a link to the site with the best price? :p
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post #20 of 227 (permalink) Old 11-22-2006, 02:11 AM
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Good Post!

I raised my front by 1.5" T-Bar and bagged the rear with AirLift. Very Pleased with my ride!!!
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