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Front Brake Rotor Removal

119K views 78 replies 30 participants last post by  Franneh 
#1 ·
I just replaced my front brake rotors on my 2006 Colorado Z71 2WD I5 to Powerslot rotors.

And i searched on here for a GOOD write up.. and didn't find one. so i figured i would try to help.

OH... DO NOT! USE A SLIDE HAMMER.. IT CAN DAMAGE THE BEARINGS!


Tools Required:

Lug Removal Tool
Impact Gun (Recommended)
Sockets.. Lots of metric sockets
Ratchets
Wrenches
Porta Power (hydraulic piston) --- THIS IS REALLY IMPORTANT... use to press hub off..
LOTS OF PATIENCE


Instructions:

1) Jack vehicle and support on jack stands.

2) Remove front tire.

3) Remove Front Brake caliper.. hang on frame using a bungee or other support
Important to not stress hose.

4) Remove brake pad support.

5) Remove 4 bolts from rear of hub.

6) Undo bolt for ABS sensor from frame, undo all clips holding wire.
Crawl under truck and unclip wire connector (trace wire from the ABS sensor to find it)

7) Make sure wire is unclipped from the frame and will not bind on removal of hub. (Prevents Damage of ABS sensor)

8) TRICKY PART: Turn the wheels so that you can use the hydraulic porta-power against where the lower control arm mounts to the front. (Turn the
wheel left). Position porta-power to be placed inside dimple of the middle of the hub. DO NOT DAMAGE ABS SENSOR...
Pump Porta-power until hub "Pops".. be extremely careful removing the hub not to damage the ABS wire at all.. It is easy to break and not notice (I did
this and had to resplice it)

9) Hub should be removed from vehicle by this point and you can remove the six bolts holding the old rotor on. Still be careful not to damage the sensor.

10) Change the rotor. (do not use impact gun to reattach.. may strip threads)

11) Installation is basically reverse of removal.

12) Install brake pads, press caliper back in (typical brake job)

13) Put tire back on.. do other side.. and you're done.


Porta Power is this.... http://www.southern-tool.com/store/porta_power_kit.html


any questions... message me.
 
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#3 ·
Another approach:

Instead of using a porta Power, we used the hydraulic steering force to pop the hub off. Remove the bolts from the bearing housing, loosen the axel nut and then wedge an extension/socket/whatever between the rotor and the shock mount (or whatever you can). Then turn the wheel with the engine running. The hob popped right off.

Chris
 
#5 ·
ubaldc said:
Another approach:

Instead of using a porta Power, we used the hydraulic steering force to pop the hub off. Remove the bolts from the bearing housing, loosen the axel nut and then wedge an extension/socket/whatever between the rotor and the shock mount (or whatever you can). Then turn the wheel with the engine running. The hob popped right off.

Chris
That is an interesting approach. I wonder if there is any harm done by removing the rotor this way (granted you have someone to catch it so it does not fall on the ground and damage the speed sensor)?!
 
#7 ·
nolan62 said:
If you had to use a hydrualic ram to push the hub out how are you getting it back in?
It comes out hard becuase of the buildup of rust/dirt. Once it's out and cleaned up you can put it back in by hand.
 
#8 ·
I found it easier to take the four bolts holding the hub on almost completely off then putting a small 2x4 on it and hitting the bolts all the way around. It loosens the hub enough to take off by hand. And the hub will only go as far as the bolt so no damaged parts unless you miss the 2x4 and hit your sensor.
 
#12 ·
Z71mOtO-x said:
does any know how to remove and install the abs sensor from the hub bearing assembly? if not, how about finding one that comes already complete cause i cant find em' ..... thanks btw this website ROCKS!!!!!!!!!!!
With all the recent discussion about the ABS sensor and hub setup, I did some research on replacing it. Not much too it really. But why remove the old one if you don't have a replacement?
 
#13 ·
I am glad i found this, i need to do my brakes ASAP.
 
#15 ·
I don't understand why you all feel the need to replace your rotors at every brake job. If they're not grooved or scored then just pad slap it. If you want a new rough surface with new pads then have a brake shop or your dealer resurface the rotors with the oncar brake lathe.
 
#16 ·
turbizzy said:
I don't understand why you all feel the need to replace your rotors at every brake job. If they're not grooved or scored then just pad slap it. If you want a new rough surface with new pads then have a brake shop or your dealer resurface the rotors with the oncar brake lathe.

not being smarty pants,40 years at it and NEVER WAS GOOD IDEA TO TURN A ROTOR.its not going to work.put new ones on,IF NECESSARY.if rotors look ok, i agree just put pads on.

there was shadetree mechanic show on years ago on tv.they always replaced the rotors on brake job.

usually my rotors go before my pads do. :lol:
 
#17 ·
If a rotor isn't scored or damaged in anyway, there is nothing wrong with taking off a couple of thousands of an inch and reusing it. Hell, Ive taken rotors that were in good shape and scuffed them up with 80 grit sandpaper and installed new pads.
 
#18 ·
ssgjurista said:
If a rotor isn't scored or damaged in anyway, there is nothing wrong with taking off a couple of thousands of an inch and reusing it. Hell, Ive taken rotors that were in good shape and scuffed them up with 80 grit sandpaper and installed new pads.

been there done that.WASTE OF TIME AND WILL WASTE YOUR MONEY,it aint going to work.as for sandpaper,NO PROBLEM.I ALWAYS SANDPAPER A ROTOR THAT IS OK and put new pads on.rotors are just not heavy enough after turning for them to not warp again.china rotors are real dandy ones, turn then onec and see if you dont curse a month from now.

i like WAGNER products too. :wink:
 
#19 ·
Not to sound like a smarty pants either but im failing to see your explanation of why its a waste of time/money. If you have a shitty old school bench lathe then yes i agree, but now a days we use an oncar brake lathe that you mount to the actual hub with an adapter and the machine auto compensates for hub runout and this is an approved factory method by GM and by Nissan.

In fact, in Nissan school we actually watched a demonstration on a brand new set of OE rotors being put onto an a brand new Altima and had over .100" runout brand new outta the box once placed on the hub. The rotors themselves were true but once placed on the vehicle the car's hub has runout which adds to brake pulsationg. And the car had like 7 miles on it. The approved method for repair is not new rotors, they have us machine the new rotors with an on car brake lathe which machines the rotor with the hub runout and compensates for it so realistically the freshly resurfaced rotors on the on car lathe are TRUER on the car than they were brand new outta the box. Basically you have to match the rotors to your vehicle instead of using a universal method of a bench lathe.

So again, i don't see your point on how its a waste. Please explain how you seem to know more than these billion dollar companies' engineers (no offense). You mention china rotots, well theres your problem. I (GM and Nissan dealer tech) only use and only recommend OEM replacement factory parts because yes, china rotors may warp as stated. But I will say this, some OEM rotors don't like to be resurfaced either, brands like Volvo, VW, Audi, (i've worked at all these dealers before and they strictly replace rotors) seems like most European companies, warp rotors really easy due to their really hard pad material so those i wouldn't suggest replacing. But for the most part, all GM rotors are ok to machine and it even recommends it so in the FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL using the procut oncar lathe.
 
#20 ·
Everyone please see this video and you'll see what im talkin about when i say on car brake lathe and how its extremely accurate and far better than the old school traditional style bench lathes which should all be melted for scrap. This machine is the exact one we use at work, the PROCUT is the only approved lathe by all major auto manufacturers and in fact, as i stated earlier, are known to be used on brand new rotors to true them up to the vehicle's built in wheel bearing/hub runout so technically this is even better than a brand new set of rotors.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qAOFErcUMoE
 
#21 ·
Ok, maybe I'm paranoid, maybe I'm over protective. But there are 2 things on a vehicle I never skimp on or take short cuts, Tires and Brakes. Either one can directly effect your life span! I don't buy cheap tires and I don't turn vented rotors. I always replace rotors with pads. If it is a solid rotor I will have them turned once and then replace them next time. Some things just aren't worth risking to save some money.

Ed
 
#22 ·
To each his own. If you feel better about replacing rotors with pads, by all means do it. The point Izzy was trying to make and I agree with him is the mindset on here seems to be "you have to replace the rotors when you replace the front brake pads". That's just not true. Yes, I think made in China rotors leave a lot to be desired. But a good American or Canadian rotor is made from high quality castings and made extra thick on purpose so runout or minor gouges can be fixed. That's why they have a wear limit.
I've also taken many a rotor that had no damage or brake pedal pulsation and had a few thousands machined off to remove the lip that forms at the edge of the rotor where the pad doesn't rub. Put them back on and they work fine.

So if the rotors appear fine, have them lathed with the on car brake lathe or scuff them up with sandpaper and 'pad slap' them, but making a blanket statement that its a waste of time and money doesn't hold up.
 
#23 ·
ssgjurista said:
To each his own. If you feel better about replacing rotors with pads, by all means do it. The point Izzy was trying to make and I agree with him is the mindset on here seems to be "you have to replace the rotors when you replace the front brake pads". That's just not true. Yes, I think made in China rotors leave a lot to be desired. But a good American or Canadian rotor is made from high quality castings and made extra thick on purpose so runout or minor gouges can be fixed. That's why they have a wear limit.
I've also taken many a rotor that had no damage or brake pedal pulsation and had a few thousands machined off to remove the lip that forms at the edge of the rotor where the pad doesn't rub. Put them back on and they work fine.

So if the rotors appear fine, have them lathed with the on car brake lathe or scuff them up with sandpaper and 'pad slap' them, but making a blanket statement that its a waste of time and money doesn't hold up.
Agreed.

You don't need to always replace rotors, if that makes you feel better then by all means. Since i work in a dealership most my customers trust us so we have to make the best decision for them and also try to be reasonable on price. Replacing rotors can get expensive every single brake job. Nothing wrong with resurfacing them if they're still within discard limits.
 
#24 ·
on your new way of turning a rotor,a NEW rotor,no problems and i never saw that machine yet.what i am saying from ,well, i am 56 years old and started in garage at 16.56 minus 16=40 yrs.where did years go.

in those years not 1 turned rotor used ever lasted or was worth time.to tear the rotors back off after a few months does not make sense too me.taking metal off and making rotor weaker and will warp quick, i seen it over and over again.i heard mechanics say, DONT DO IT. :shock:

BACK WHEN WE HAD NON-METTALIC SHOES YOU DID NOT HEAR OF THE WARPED ROTORS as we have today.

new rotors are going from 26 dollars to 41 dollars at advanced auto/napa.why would anyone want to turn a used bad rotor :roll:

i have no objection to turning rotor new like you described you are doing to get best alignment whatever but to take a rotor with a lot of miles on it and turn it, i stand by my 40 years of experience,no way i would do it .

but as you said, new machines are out but to me you are STILL taking metal off the rotor with semi shoes.next time one of the USED rotors is turned wiuth your machine, see if owner will update you on how many miles they have on the used rotors .with no problems.

i like idea of that new machine turning rotor NEW unwarped on truck toi get it real correct,sounds like a winner.
 
#25 ·
ssgjurista said:
To each his own. If you feel better about replacing rotors with pads, by all means do it. The point Izzy was trying to make and I agree with him is the mindset on here seems to be "you have to replace the rotors when you replace the front brake pads". That's just not true. Yes, I think made in China rotors leave a lot to be desired. But a good American or Canadian rotor is made from high quality castings and made extra thick on purpose so runout or minor gouges can be fixed. That's why they have a wear limit.
I've also taken many a rotor that had no damage or brake pedal pulsation and had a few thousands machined off to remove the lip that forms at the edge of the rotor where the pad doesn't rub. Put them back on and they work fine.

So if the rotors appear fine, have them lathed with the on car brake lathe or scuff them up with sandpaper and 'pad slap' them, but making a blanket statement that its a waste of time and money doesn't hold up.


i dont or recommend changing a GOOD rotor every break pad change,only if its WARPED.you will not make it to second time on rotor so it will come out then or before.sandpaper i use 1000 emery cloth wheel on my power drill to scuff up.

anything over 60,000 miles, i usually replace rotors,why because most likely your rotors will go before that.at garage off top of my head most rotors are shot by 40,000 miles.that is what i am seeing for over 40 yrs .

chevy impala go thru rotors like at 10,000 miles, i had i guy in to replace them 3 times before 40,000 miles, 3 times. :shock:
 
#26 ·
sproulman said:
......chevy impala go thru rotors like at 10,000 miles, i had i guy in to replace them 3 times before 40,000 miles, 3 times. :shock:
Oh really? My wife's Impala has 50K miles on it and the factory rotors are fine. If you had to replace the rotors 3 times in 40K miles, the driver is an idiot and his driving habits are causing the rotors to get messed up. There is no set mileage where rotors go bad either. I've seen rotors with 100K miles on them and well within wear limits.
 
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