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Boost gauge installation

23K views 33 replies 9 participants last post by  Usedspacecraft 
#1 ·
Where is the best place to tap for a boost gauge?

Also, being my first diesel, is there any reason for vacuum on the boost gauge? Meaning, should I just get boost pressure and not vacuum?
 
#2 · (Edited)
I have the AFE Hard pipe, my experience with Gas motors is you need to be post throttle blade, but I guess with the diesel and the full delete this wouldn't be necessary. The Hard pipe already has threaded bungs I could remove and use that, would make it easy. My experience post turbo pre-TB is you always see boost, so vacuum didn't make much sense, but with the Diesel not having a TB (I know we do, but post delete it will remain open) not sure what the pressure/vacuum situation looks like

Thoughts?
 
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#3 ·
My previous experience with TDI has the tap point in the IC pipe just before the intake body or in the intake (throttle) body itself. I would think it would be the same on the 2.8. Either location will work but in the body itself may interfere with the shut down flap unless it is deleted which isn't a good idea.
 
#5 ·
#6 ·
I also confirmed I have 1/8" NPT ports on both the hot and cold side of the AFE pipes, this will make install very easy.
 
#7 ·
I just updated my boost gauge to 45 psi. After purchasing an OBDII Dongle and OBD Fusion I have seen boost over 30 psi (I have Duramaxtuner and AFE intake and bladerunner kit, not sure if that matters). I have also read with certain scenarios you can see boost higher than that. Since I didn't want my boost gauge topping out at 30psi and not knowing what it was doing, I decided to change it. I also (before this) changed the background during night time to be blue instead of green.
 

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#12 ·
Using the OBD Fusion, encountering a small hill and the right amount of throttle I have seen over 30 (hell just in town during lunch I hit 28psi). I haven't played enough to know what "sustainable" boost is but I do want the ability to see the spikes as well.
 
#10 ·
My problem is where to mount the gauge?

I have an Aeroforce Gauge I used in my Turbo HHR and I would like to use it in the GMC. No one makes a good pillar pod or gauge pod for these trucks yet. Has anyone found a viable pod?

I think the one MrP bought was originally sourced from here:

CHEVROLET - Ortiz Custom Pods
 
#11 ·
I bought mine used from a member on here, but that looks like it! You can also get them on eBay, probably this seller selling on eBay
 
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#13 · (Edited)
Thanks I e mailed them and asked if they had plans for a single pillar pod for gauges as there is a booming Diesel engine in this model now and no one makes one.

For what is worth I was hitting 23 PSI with my Ecotech turbo and it was only limited by altitude and a weak trans axle. That was on pump gas. It is amazing to see such high boost pressures today. Turbo engines are amazing gas of Diesel.
 
#14 ·


Here is from a stand still on flat ground. (FOCUS ON THE RED MARKS ON GAUGE FOR MAX)

Check out those EGT eeeeeeeek
 
#15 ·
That EGT reading is worthless and not picking up temp from the right place.. None of the obd EGT sensors can be used for anything except monitoring a regen to see its progress through the stages. Also, the boost you are seeing is not gauge pressure, it's absolute. So if you're seeing 30psi for example, subtract baro of let's say 14.5 and you're left with 15.5... The boost tables stock are written to max around 26psi(gauge) which would be about 39.5(absolute)

Sent from my LG-H918 using Tapatalk
 
#20 · (Edited)


FINALLY! Got my gauges. To be fair, I changed something on the order 3 times and evertime added not only cost, but lead time.

I really enjoy working with Speedhut. My gauges were in production already when I made my 1st change, and it was only a $12 charge to make the change I want when they could have easily said nope, you get what you originally ordered.

I need to figure out how to make the gauges to stop from spinning in the holders (likely use electrical tape around the threaded portion of the gauges until it is a snug fit, once in place, there is nothing to really move them. My AFE Cold Side piping already has a threaded bung for the boost so that is easy. EGT will take the place of the EGT sensor in the stock manifold once I am deleted, again, with the right parts, is easy. Just need to find a switched power source and an "interior light 12V" source to operate the lights on these and I should looking good.
 
#21 · (Edited)
Attached is one of the drawings for interior dimmer... The dimmer pot is driven by a 12v b+ source, then feeds the 12v through the 5k pot. The output of that pot should be enough to drive the lighting on your gauges, and will operate on a dimmer as well so the gauges will dim when your DIC dims... LMK if you need anything else

Edit
Pin 2 on the headlamp switch is your switched +12vdc Circuit
Pin 11 on the headlamp switch is your +12vdc "Illumination" Circuit that will vary with dimmer position
 

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#23 ·
Gauges are mounted, didn't snap any pics as I had to run out for the kids swimming lessons. The way the ARE is mounted I will be unable to run it directly on the COLD side without an elbow. Too close and the electronics sending unit is too long. They give pieces for a hose barb connection might do a barbed x male NPT adapter so i can keep it on the COLD side. Plenty of room on the hot side but I assume there is some pressure drop through the intercooler. Well see, might try both and see the difference.
 
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#25 ·
For those that can't watch a video



This is pre-intercooler, so likely higher than what we are seeing at the intake (typical boost drop is <5 psi, but once I get an adapter I can check (my AFE Cold side bung is too close to my fuse box to direct connect)
 
#30 ·
Reviving this super old thread. I had the same problem trying to locate a good gauge pod for my 2018 gas after I put in the supercharger. I ended up 3D printing one from carbon-nylon material which has a pretty decent match to the gray dash. I designed it to fit on the weird tray in the middle of the dash where they put the extra speaker in some of the trucks. I drilled a hole in the tray under where the pod goes to pass cables through and hot glued some magnets to teh pod and the underside of the tray so it just pops off and magnets back on. You can see it in my other post here: Anyone with supercharged 3.6 using a boost gauge?

I just bought an iDash that I am installing too so back to the printer to print up another one. This one is currently printing for the next 20+ hours...hopefully it comes out. I used some orange nylon so we'll see if I like it, but I may end up re-printing it from the carbon-nylon again. Here is the design for the new one:
Peripheral Input device Automotive tire Automotive design Automotive exterior
 
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