I tried spraying the Power Foam into the evap vent tube on the TB and it works great. I did notice a warning on the back of the can: "not for use in engines with a Mass Air Flow sensor".
I decided the warning is for one of two reasons: unhooking the intake on an MAF equipped engine could trigger a CEL or some one might try removing the air filter and spray the foam in and it could damage the MAF sensor. Anyway, I got the engine to operating temp and removed the evap hose and put a short piece of rubber hose in it's place. There is a strong vacuum, just what I expected and hoped for. I began spraying the foam into the hose. The engine began chugging but never acted like it would stall. Every 10 seconds I would stop spraying and shake the can.
After I emptied the can I shut the truck off and reconnected the evap hose. I waited about 5 minutes and started the truck back up. Talk about smoke, and the fumes stink to the heavens.
Went for a short test drive to finish blowing out the residue. No CEL either. Very simple procedure.
Here are a few pics:

AMSoil Power Foam is some powerful stuff. Glad the evap vent worked out for you. Guess I am just crazy. I still like to like to disassemble the intake manually clean the TB before using the Power Foam.

We're all crazy one way or another. I cleaned the TB before using the Power Foam. I didn't want the foam pushing crud from the TB down the intake.

i didnt have any idle issues but i took mine apart today, was dirty as hell. so i cleaned and wiped the thing down til she looked new and popped it back in. Took about 20 minutes and I had no idea what i was doing. I think i spent more time trying to find a socket...


noticed no difference, but the reassurance of it being clean means i wont have issues for awhile.

I had the same issue with an intermittent check engine light and low idle. I actually took it in to a shop and they basically did all the steps outlined above. They claimed the cause of the issue is a lack of a PCV valve; regardless with the cleaned intake the truck idles nice and smooth with no annoying check engine light.

Excellent...Just did it on mine and I think its safe to call it another success.
I will note that while your engine is running and your running the sea foam in...if you do happen to choke your engine and it dies, immediately head in and crank it back up. While doing so, give it a little gas to help it start back up and keep your foot on it and let it run at about 2 grand to guide it until the smoke clears. I think I let just a little to much into my throttle at once and it killed it but he's rite, dont pour it in without the engine running because YOU WILL throw it to the point of no return.
Thanks guys.

Holy crap! The steering wheel doesn't shake at idle anymore! I should have done this a long time ago. Its like someone keeps mentioning it should be done....

Just had this done on Saturday. I was getting the P0506 CEL code. Truck purrs like a kitten now and my MPG is the best it's been since I bought the truck almost a year ago!

Nice write up! Worked perfectly! My truck was idling a little below 500 now its at 700! No more stalling issues, rpm dips from turning the wheel or CEL either! Also threw some of the royal purple sythetic in there and can really feel the horsepower increase deffinetly worth the extra few bucks! This service totally corrected all of the issues I previously had with my motor.

Is it going to be a issue if I didn't use the deep creep?

No, Deep Creep is basically a foam version of the liquid Seafoam.

You can also use the deep creep or sea foam anytime you want. It doesn't have to be done when you do the throttle body cleaning.

Seafoam, if I remember from when I did it on my Sierra, says on the can to pour 1/3 of the can into your TB/vacuum hose, 1/3 into the gas tank (not when low or empty), and the last 1/3 right into the engine crankcase to mix with the engine oil. I was told by my mechanic to do it that way as well, and to go for a drive for 20 mins and rev it up real good to burn all the deposits out of the engine. When I got out onto the road and gunned it, the cloud of smoke completely engulfed my friend's Western Star dump truck. Drove it around for 20 mins and then immediately changed my engine oil. Made a BIG difference in how it ran. Haven't done it on my Canyon yet however, although I do plan on cleaning the TB and running a case of sea foam through it once I hit 65,000 kms...so about 2000 more to go.

Ran some seafoam through my engine and then cleaned the TB. Great write up for taking the TB apart. Took me less than 30 mins to have it spotless...for the record, you don't need to take the MAF sensor off...you can do it with the factory resonator box still attached kind of. I took the bolts holding it to the engine off and too the hose clamps and large hoses off, but left the small hose at the back of the resonator attached and just tilted it out of the way...worked fine. Havn't taken it for a spin yet but I'm sure it will run better without that crap on it. Fairly dirty for just 65,000km (40,000 miles). And yes I have pics

Hi ya'll, new member here. Just wanted to say thanks for the awesome write up and info! I've got an 05 ZQ8 with 53K miles on it, and just started experiencing the rough/low idles when coming to a stop. Did the TB removal and cleaning (didn't do seafoam), put everything back together, did an oil change, and problem solved! Runs better than it has in a long time. Many thanks!

Awesome write up. I seafoamed and cleaned the TB this weekend. It was as easy and pie, although I was panicing when i was pouring the seafoam into the engine..haha...but its running really smooth now...

time to change the plugs when i get a chance...thanks

Nice idea on using the evap port. My thinking exactly. The AMS oil Power foam works the best if the engine is hot. What i like to do is get the engine hot, pull the truck in the garage, pull the entire intake off including the TB and spray the AMS Oil Power foam down each Cylinder intake tract and wait until the white foam disappears.

While waiting for the foam to disappear i clean the MaF sensor with the CRC cleaner and i clean the TB just like all the pics you have seen.

I'll even clean the intake air box and air duct, even the resonator(depending what set up you run with) but it takes lots of time.

Lastly, i reassemble the whole intake, fire up the truck and let it get warm again. Then I hook up a hose to the EVAP port and let the engine drain half to three fourth a can of seafoam.

I've been doing this since 2005.

Does the Job every time. I've got some 90k miles on my truck, I've put that rado upside down before and she still runs like a raped ape.

Later..........

OMG thank u so much for this write up i have been searching for the reason of this chuging feeling like it was gonna stall and then it recovered i did this i changed my oil cleaned the MAF,TB, and the combustion chamber and omg it has never run so great i took it for a testdrive and it drove like a champ and i stopped hard and sped up quickly for about an hour and it was perfect great write up thnx

i found that ... http://www.stylintrucks.com/Articles/Co ... ticle.aspx

i just did it today!
thx for the directives ...

New member here. Just gotta say, thanks SO much for the write-up. I didn't succeed in getting the tb all the way off of the vehicle (because I didn't want to force that pesky little grey clamp) but I did give it as good of a cleaning as I could, and the difference is amazing. Totally rid my truck of the stupid idle issues, like trying to stall in reverse or while turning sharply or shuddering.

I'd like to say that it rid the truck of the check engine light too, but that only lasted for about 15 minutes into my post-cleaning test drive before it came back on again. I have a feeling my MAF is still to blame (despite that receiving a nice cleaning), but I have a code reader coming in the mail soon so...we'll see. The truck is behaving better than ever, why must that light taunt me so?

Anyway, again, thanks for helping a girl do her own engine maintenance for once.

Welcome! The MAF is REALLY easy to clean with a little MAF cleaner. Take it out, spray, let it dry and put it back in.

i wouldnt be surprised if it was your map sensor. after cleaning my mothers trailblazer throttle body it hasnt stoped throwing map codes. the OP of this thread also said he had to replace his map after he cleaned his TB

^^^^^^MAF or MAP?

MAP

Just checking.